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Ed Kennell

What have you done to your Wheel Horse today?

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oliver2-44
28 minutes ago, Greentored said:

 

6136792B-A113-4FF5-895D-B9D43E50E930.jpeg

Just curious. Could you have swapped the oil pan from the 12 hp over to replace the shaker plate pan on the 16hp?

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Greentored
7 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

Just curious. Could you have swapped the oil pan from the 12 hp over to replace the shaker plate pan on the 16hp?

I peeked at the sticky thread in the engine forum, it looks like a few (not mine) blocks were drilled to accept both pans, and with a little work you can run a small pan on a big base block but not vice versa. 
That plate was hanging on the wall in my archives, I have no clue what it’s for haha. Only required cutting the center hole, drilling two new holes, and enlarging the existing ones to 3/8. 
Maybe someone here can identify it.  With my luck probably a ultra rare piece worth more than the tractor 🤣

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Lee1977
10 hours ago, oliver2-44 said:

Just curious. Could you have swapped the oil pan from the 12 hp over to replace the shaker plate pan on the 16hp?

It's been done but it's not easy. 

He used two gaskets and a steel plate with cut out to fit the the engine attached with counter sink bolts. The out side shaped to the large base oil pan amd drill to bolt to it.

I think you would need at least a 1/4" thick plate.

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Jeff-C175

A most excellent idea!  Thanks!

 

image.png.0e52818e6fd24600d395617779eb5734.png

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Greentored

Finished up the K341 swap into the 1277, warmed her up, changed the oil, put her right to work! 
The hardest thing doing a job like this- doing all that work and not painting things up nice, or in this case not even cleaning the dirt off ha!
Ol lawn duty gets run in original form, and I wanted the engine to match the machine like it’s been there since day one...

Anyone else do it like this?  

63F77B39-00F4-4813-AAB4-9611D8671E22.jpeg

77BDFFD0-18A5-4CB3-8F75-B11F8D260149.jpeg

Edited by Greentored
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Maxwell-8

Well today i finish up an assembly of a K301 that i got with my 312-8: carb, head etc install. Somebody rebuild it, or so i thought. Fired here up, she smoking big time. like the polar express!

 

Worn out, she has 100psi hot. burned from full to low on the dipstick in 5 min.

 

Gonna do a proper rebuild later. Thinking of starting an diesel project: 400$ new chinese diesel or 700$ professional rebuild Yanmar. Both prices are very good for belgian standards.

 

 

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ebinmaine
9 minutes ago, Maxwell-8 said:

700$ professional rebuild Yanmar

I'd choose that. 

A great price. 

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johnnymag3
6 hours ago, Jeff-C175 said:

A most excellent idea!  Thanks!

 

image.png.0e52818e6fd24600d395617779eb5734.png

YOU MEAN YOU DONT DO THIS !!!!!! ALREADY!!!!!     :happy-bouncyblue:

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Maxwell-8
Just now, ebinmaine said:

I'd choose that. 

A great price. 

Thanks

I was thinking the same, but it's still expensive for me, slowly leaning towards the chinese one.But now I am gonne ask if i can pick that L100 up this week.

Thanks for clearing up my mind Eric, i will post pics when i have it!

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Maxwell-8
2 minutes ago, johnnymag3 said:

YOU MEAN YOU DONT DO THIS !!!!!! ALREADY!!!!!     :happy-bouncyblue:

What is he doing? Can't see the pic to clear

image.png.0e52818e6fd24600d395617779eb5734.png

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ebinmaine
8 minutes ago, Maxwell-8 said:

What is he doing? Can't see the pic to clear

image.png.0e52818e6fd24600d395617779eb5734.png

 Cap over the top of the spindle. 

Keeps muck out. 

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Maxwell-8
Just now, ebinmaine said:

 Cap over the top of the spindle. 

Keeps muck out. 

What a great idea, was looking at mine yesterday wondering what i could do about that being exposed!

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adsm08

Spent my afternoon installing what was supposed to be a temporary replacement engine in the 855. Turns out the unit may be a dud.

 

Admittedly it was in unknown and presumed rough condition going in. Looks like tomorrow I pull the head. I'd go do it tonight but it is getting cold out, and my garage door has a damaged roller, so it is stuck open.

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19richie66

Nice. Must be small nitrous bottles. :laughing-rolling:  Couldn’t even tell they had NOS. 

Edited by 19richie66
Not Jim..... 😂 seriously nice tractors though. 👍
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ebinmaine
21 minutes ago, 19richie66 said:

Nice Jim. Must be small nitrous bottles. :laughing-rolling:  Couldn’t even tell they had NOS. 

That's funny. And it's "laughing gas"....

Even more funny. 

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Tractorhead
3 hours ago, Maxwell-8 said:

What a great idea, was looking at mine yesterday wondering what i could do about that being exposed!

 

F64DA91A-EB4C-4713-8447-B52949A55F7F.jpeg.fa64839611d1ad1e6acd2c8f30f77510.jpeg

 

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i use black fence Caps for that.

also working great and stay

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ebinmaine
6 hours ago, 76c12091520h said:

Pulled the wheels off my 854 to get redone

They'll be sharp when refinished. Looking forward to an after pic. 

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Greentored

Really enjoying this extended thread!  Great place to put up a quick post or get a quick question answered without plugging up the forums with a new thread requiring 2 or 3 replies:handgestures-thumbupright:

With that being said, maybe you guys can help me out here. Is it normal for the hydros to really 'tug' the engine down when engaging the belt, more so when cold? I like to fire the 1277 up and run it about 1600-1800 for a minute, engage the belt and back her out. Even with the big daddy 16hp transplant, it really loads her when I do. Hydro is a sundstrand out of a C120 and is very strong, correct fluid (10w30) and correct pulley sizes.

On a good note, gotta be honest- I was not overly impressed with the results going from a hurt 12 to a solid 16, it still lugs a bit when moving along and running the deck, which is only a 42".  Last night I checked the timing- almost 30 degrees with the .020 gap! Backed her down to 20 degrees, moved the governor spring for more response and that ol girl came alive- NOW I'm impressed! My God, I can put the hydro at 'full speed ahead', engine at idle, yank the throttle open and she accelerates with authority:woohoo:

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peter lena

GREENTORED,  referring to your  paint thought  issue ,  MARVEL MYSTERY OIL ON A CLEAN CLOTH RUB DOWN , that will stop rust and save patina , I  instantly do that to any w/h related parts , if you rub the oil in till it dries , the finish will look much better , this oil will also start a great paint saving base to  wax (  if you want to  ). its easy to do and worth a try , pete

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Greentored
16 minutes ago, peter lena said:

GREENTORED,  referring to your  paint thought  issue ,  MARVEL MYSTERY OIL ON A CLEAN CLOTH RUB DOWN , that will stop rust and save patina , I  instantly do that to any w/h related parts , if you rub the oil in till it dries , the finish will look much better , this oil will also start a great paint saving base to  wax (  if you want to  ). its easy to do and worth a try , pete

I'm gonna have to give this a try! I normally give em a quick sanding with 1000-1500 and buff with compound- the down side to that is while the paint shines like a new car, that compound will get into the rusty stuff and end up a nice chalky white haze that is a bear to get out.

Lawn duty engine swap was successful, has leaf duty this week, then she's going nite nite til spring and I can play with the other models. Would be a perfect opportunity to give her a rub down before parking.

Thanks!

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Greentored

There's something about freshly painted wheels and an original, battle scarred paint job. To me, it's a look thats hard to beat!

7011.jpg

g1.jpg

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