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HorseHead1089

Opinions on loading tires and what to load them with

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HorseHead1089

In addition to wheel weighs I have been thinking about loading tires. So far these are the methods that work best

-Windshield Washer Fluid

-RV non toxic anifreeze

-Rimguard

-Tube vs Tubeless

Also other people have specified the use of tubes vs no tubes. With my experience with rim guard at the shop, you don't need tubes, but its messy and sticky. With the other 2 I don't think you need tubes, but on another forum where the alcohol content in RV antifreeze and washer fluid were not god for you tires. So even though tubes will allow less fluid in the tire but I would think it would protect the tire itself from the fluid. What ways and methods do you use to load your tires??

 

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Ed Kennell

I have filled several sets with WW fluid w/o tubes without any problems for 4 years.   I have not removed any tires though to check the condition of tires or wheels inside.

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R. L. Addison

I would not load any tire without a tube. (Personal opinion)  Tubes are cheaper than wheels.

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HorseHead1089

Thanks for your input Glen, I work as a small engine mechanic and also spend time servicing kubota tractors and I am very familiar with rim guard and dealing with loaded tires, very heavy!!    I mainly was looking for something easier to do that I could do myself that would be less messy. Hopefully this helps others as well. 

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ebinmaine
4 hours ago, GlenPettit said:

••• I like RimGuard, not just because it's made in Michigan and with our Beet Juice, but I believe it is the most heavy liquid/gallon

for weight in our tires, organic, safe for the environment, safe for metal and actually has a food-value for plants.

••• If you do use tubes with 'RimGuard', be sure they are USA made tubes. This juice does corrod the glue used in the rubber

stem-patches used in all the non-USA tubes, (google this to verify, it's also in the RimGuard instructions on the net).

••• The price per gallon and the labor cost to fill tires can vary a lot, check around and ask on the total/final cost.  Seems like there

is one price for "city boys" and another,  lower price, for "country boys & truckers".

••• I would recommend tubes, and to fill tires only 80% full as you still need some air pressure in there.

••• If you do use liquid, you devote this pair of tires to always being heavy (60–100# each), and you may need to have an extra set

of light-weight tires & wheels for Summer mowing.   Heavy tires can damage, compact & may leave ruts in moist lawns in the Spring.

Excellent writeup Glenn.

Well said.

Another vote for Rimguard here.

@HorseHead1089, I'm fairly new to the WH addiction but been around tractors awhile.  I haven't heard of a way to weight a machine I like better. 

Part of my reason is cost. I can get beet juice INSTALLED for only 50 cents a gallon more than buying the others then doing the messy work.....

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ClassicTractorProfessor

I loaded the ags on my C125 with windshield washer fluid and this near neat little gadget...picked it up at tractor supply for around 10 bucks...used an old RV water pump to pump the fluid in works great.

20073.jpg

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Aldon

I loaded mine with WW fluid rated at -30. Used the adapter and a drill pump. I have it down to about 15 minutes max per tire to load.

 

One thing I did find out when doing my own research is that RV anitfreeze actually starts to turn to a slush at much higher temp that it is rated. It is designed not to expand and as such the lines are protected. 

 

I made sure rims were in good painted condition.

 

 

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HorseHead1089

Sounds what like most others are saying Aldon. However some people suspected that WW fluid would dry out the rubber or break it down, however most people seem to have no problem running it and especially running it tubeless. Still on the fence about loading WW fluid with tubes or going tubeless...

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ebinmaine
4 minutes ago, HorseHead1089 said:

Still on the fence about loading WW fluid with tubes or going tubeless...

Keeping in mind I've never done the work myself. Here's what I would be asking. How much cost would I have into the tubes? Would that cost be worth the insurance in my mind of having the tubes dry-rotted as opposed to my tires being dry-rotted? I feel like I probably would put the tubes in if it was not a lot of extra work.

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Skipper

Tubes are cheap compared to tires, so yes, I would surely use tubes.

 

Besides that, I use plain water with a lot of salt to prevent going bad and keep frost free. It is cheap, and works very well in our climate. When using this salt trick, I can not urge you enough to use tubes.

 

Don't think it matters much what you put in them, and surely the weight difference is very minute between the different fluids. I can not notice any difference of a few grams more on a wheel or not.

 

But to the point of the opinion of loaded tires being worth it, I can only say this for my self......Ooooh yeah it works! The tire sits more flat on the surface, and has way better "do not slip" properties :-) 

 

I use the tap water pressure to "inflate" the tires till they feel and sit just right. No air in them. only fluids.

 

Those are my thoughts. Do not know if you can use them ;-)

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wallfish

With tubes you'll need to pump whatever fluid you use into them.

Tubeless, just break the bead and pour it in.

I opted for WW fluid and went tubeless since I have plenty of rims around to replace them if it ever becomes necessary, plus all my tires are old anyway.

Both suck when the tire gets punctured but worth it's weight in ?   weight, when plowing or blowing snow.

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Aldon

:text-yeahthat:

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KC9KAS

 

 

I thought beet juice (Rim Guard) was 11+ pounds per gallon but this chart shows < 11# per gallon.

Liquid Ballast Comparison Table

Type Cost Freeze Resist Weight vs. Water Safe? Availability          Weight per gallon
Water free none +0% very safe wide                      8.34
Calcium Chloride low/high* -50F +40% corrosive wide                     11.67
Ethylene Glycol Antifreeze medium -40F +0% toxic wide                       8.34
Propylene Glycol Antifreeze high -40F +0% safe wide                       8.34
Windshield Washer Fluid low -20F +0% toxic wide                       8.34
Methanol medium -15F +0% very flammable wide                       8.34
Beet Juice very high -35F +30% very safe dealer network     10.84 

Polyurethane Foam/Flat Fill

 

 

very high   +20-50% very safe dealer network      10--12.51

I thought beet juice (Rim Guard) was 11+ pounds per gallon but this chart shows < 11# per gallon.

Liquid Ballast Comparison Table

Type Cost Freeze Resist Weight vs. Water Safe? Availability          Weight per gallon
Water free none +0% very safe wide                      8.34
Calcium Chloride low/high* -50F +40% corrosive wide                     11.67
Ethylene Glycol Antifreeze medium -40F +0% toxic wide                       8.34
Propylene Glycol Antifreeze high -40F +0% safe wide                       8.34
Windshield Washer Fluid low -20F +0% toxic wide                       8.34
Methanol medium -15F +0% very flammable wide                       8.34
Beet Juice very high -35F +30% very safe dealer network     10.84 

Polyurethane Foam/Flat Fill

 

very high   +20-50% very safe dealer network      10--12.51

 

*using CaCl2 is low cost if containment tubes are already available and installed, otherwise this is a high cost option

Water
Water has been used as ballast inside the rear tires of tractors operated in warmer climates for years. In geographical locations where freezing occurs, an additive is necessary to prevent the water from becoming an ice block inside the tire. Ballast that does freeze inside the tractor will make those tires unstable and general operation of the tractor unsafe. Water is the least expensive form of liquid ballasting and weighs 8.3lbs per gallon.

  • Advantages

     

  • readily available
  • no cost
  • safe to use – non-toxic, non-flammable
  • easy to install into tires
  • Disadvantages

     

  • not suitable for cold climates

Calcium Chloride
Calcium chloride, CaCl2, in powdered form can be mixed with water to produce a liquid that will resist freezing up to -50F, depending on the strength of the concentration. Calcium chloride weighs about 11.5lbs/gallon mixed, so more ballast weight is achieved in the same volume, allowing a heavier ballast. This type of liquid ballast is a highly corrosive mixture so care must be taken in handling this product. CaCl2 should be installed into tubes regardless of whether or not the tire on the tractor is tubeless. Without being contained in a tube the mixture will rust the rim flange area right out.

  • Advantages

     

  • easily obtained in large quantities
  • high weight/volume ratio (almost 40% more than water alone)
  • very high freeze resistance
  • Disadvantages

     

  • care taken when used – corrosive mixture
  • must be installed into tubes – extra cost
  • if installed without tubes corrosion/rust of the rim will occur
  • puncturing a tire filled with CaCl2 will spray rust-causing mixture everywhere, damaging sheet metal and vegetation
A typical 50lb bag of calcium chloride with inset image showing powder consistency.

A typical 50lb bag of calcium chloride with inset image showing powder consistency.

Ethylene Glycol Antifreeze
Antifreeze, mixed 50/50 with water, and installed into your Kubota’s rear tires, will provide the same amount of weight per gallon as water and will resist freezing to approx -40F. Ethylene glycol antifreeze is classified by Canada’s Environmental Protection Agency as hazardous waste after it reaches the end of its useful life. Care must be taken when disposing of this type of ballast – and in the case of a tractor tire, there will be a lot of mix to deal with.

  • Advantages

     

  • easily obtained in large quantities
  • high freeze resistance
  • safe to mix – non-flammable but is toxic if ingested
  • Disadvantages

     

  • hazardous to the environment, animals and people – care must be taken regarding its disposal
  • could get costly if your only source is 1 gallon jugs at a Walmart

Propylene Glycol Antifreeze
Propylene glycol is known as a non-toxic or people/animal friendly antifreeze. Besides its antifreeze properties, it is actually used in many cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, shampoos and as a food additive. Dow, who manufacturers 35% of the world’s supply of of propylene glycol, reports that in the United States, 22% of production is used for antifreeze or de-icing. When installed into your tires as a ballast in a 50/50 mix, expect similar properties to ethylene glycol, high freeze resistance with ballast weight similar to that of water alone. AMSOIL makes this type antifreeze available by the gallon or 55 gallon drum.

  • Advantages

     

  • easily obtained in large quantities
  • high freeze resistance
  • safe to humans, animals and vegetation, non-flammable, non-toxic and biodegradable
  • Disadvantages

     

  • more costly than plain old toxic ethylene glycol – sources we used, quoted prices of 33%-120% more per gallon

Windshield Washer Fluid
Washer fluid, installed right from the jug is freeze protected to about -20F and provides about the same ballast weight properties as water does. Washer fluid has some of the same chemicals in it that antifreeze does, but at milder concentrations. Disposing of gallons and gallons of washer fluid, as in the case of tire ballast, would require care.

  • Advantages

     

  • easily obtained in large quantities
  • low cost
  • adequate freeze resistance
  • no mixing required – use as is, non-flammable but is toxic
  • Disadvantages

     

  • hazardous to the environment, animals and people – care must be taken regarding its disposal

Methanol
Methanol is highly flammable and if you decide to use this product it must be mixed with water to make it so you do not blow yourself up while mixing it, installing it, or driving your tractor with it in there. Depending on strength of mixture, methanol and water is good to around -15F temperatures. We are not recommending the use of methanol and water because of the danger – but it is an option available for tire ballasting.

  • Advantages

     

  • easily obtained in large quantities
  • adequate freeze resistance
  • Disadvantages

     

  • extremely flammable
  • mixing required with water
  • hazardous to the environment, animals and people – care must be taken regarding its disposal

Beet Juice
Beet juice, a liquid byproduct made from de-sugared sugar beets. This food grade product is available in the US under the trade and brand name, RimGuard. This liquid weighs about 30% more than straight water and resists freezing to about -35F. Best of all, it will not solidify until the temp drops to -50F. Natural, non-corrosive, safe to the environment and humans. If beet juice is available in your location, we believe this your best bet – safe to use and provides extra ballast weight.

  • Advantages

     

  • high weight/volume ratio (about 30% more than water alone)
  • very high freeze resistance
  • anti-rust properties
  • a natural product – environmentally friendly and safe
  • Disadvantages

     

  • may not be available in all locations

Polyurethane Foam/Flat Fill
This ballast method is essentially a run-flat polyurethane fill that is injected into the tire through the valve stem. Two liquid components are pumped into the tire and they react with one another so that 24-36 hours later, you are left with a solid rubber core – the air inside the tire is completely displaced. The term “foam” is a bit misleading – the core is actually very much a black solid. It is sometimes called foam because air bubbles are injected into the mix to control the density of the end product.

This ballast method obviously adds serious weight gains to each tire and also has the nice benefit of eliminating flat tires and associated repair costs. Because the tire is run-flat there is no risk of corrosive/toxic ballast spraying all over your tractor and scorching vegetation if you do spring a leak. You will have to find a dealer near you that performs this service (Brannon Tire in Stockton, California for example).

  • Advantages

     

  • high weight/volume ratio (about 20-50% more than water depending on type of fill)
  • cannot freeze
  • tire is run-flat
  • simple – have it done once, ballasted forever
  • Disadvantages

     

  • may not be available in all locations
  • high cost – prices range around $0.95-1.25 lbs injected, or $300+ per tire
  • tire must be cut off rim after tread wears out – best for new or nearly new tires
  • if performed on steering tires, heavy duty weight gains will put more stress on steering components
  • no air in tires to absorb humps and bumps so you will get a very rough ride – could be jarring for long distance travel

Have experience using some of these ballast types? Write us a comment below

Edited by KC9KAS
screwed up posting!
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squonk

4 yrs. on my horses and 5 years on ky Power King with RV antifreeze with no issues

Edited by squonk
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WVHillbilly520H

I use the RV antifreeze in my 520 rear tires (supposedly non toxic as it's used to winterize RVs), but from what I've been told the freeze point actually increases (lower temps) as the thicker rubber of a tire acts as insulation (IDK), and the eMax I got this spring came with a free rear tire fluid ballast, methanol was the dealers choice, the old Cub Cadet original dad bought back in 1977 came with calcium chloride loaded 6-12s that had tubes but we did a light restore when I was about 13 the tubes has slowly deteriorated and leaked out in the steel wheels and started rusting/pitting them, dad saved most and reused it with more water (installed new tubes) then the same thing with the Allis Chalmers C when it needed new rear tires, so even with tubes I highly caution against the calcium chloride not worth the weight advantage vs the deteriorating tubes then wheels, just my 2¢, Jeff.

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953 nut

While filling a pair of tires with RV Antifreeze I learned an important lesson today. Use a small pair of vice grips to hold the valve stem of your inner tube! 

The filling of the first tire went along very smoothly and only took about ten minutes to transfer six gallons from a bucket to the tire.   :woohoo:    Then it happened; I removed the fill/vent adapter from the valve stem and immediately the valve stem disappeared into the rim! 

OH NO!      :angry-tappingfoot:   Couldn't manage to fish the stem back through the hole so had to break the bead and use tire irons to remove one side of the tire from the rim so I could reach the valve stem with long nose pliers and bring it back to daylight. Then the stem was clamped in place with small vice grips and the tire bead replaced prior to inflation. Needless to say some of the fluid had left the tube and was in the tire so as I inflated it the fluid was spraying out the valve hole, what a mess.

The second one went much better! ! !

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ebinmaine
10 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

 Then the stem was clamped in place with small vice grips.....

The second one went much better! ! !

Good info there 'Nut......... as previously posted elsewhere, I won't remember that if I ever try it myself. But thanks anyways..;)

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WHX??

Yes good reminder Richard about the vise grips ... I pulled the core out to deflate some tires on tubed tires without thinking to put on chains  .. yup tube stem to nevernever land. There goes another hour of my life I won't get back. I even have one of these! :angry-banghead:

 Beet juice gets my vote with a close 2nd to WW or RV  and anyone who uses CC is out of his gourd and obviously never had to deal with original RJ or Suburban rims. Good info ther @KC9KAS

 

 

1170840.jpg

Edited by WHX12
ADD
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WHX??

Something else related to this thread that the Professor already mentioned ... yes 10 clams at TSC, makes loading tires easy and well worth it. . Somewhere here @squonk has a good DIY how to thread on loading tires.

1170832.jpg

Here it is

Somebody made off with your pics tho Mike!

Edited by WHX12

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squonk
3 hours ago, WHX12 said:

Something else related to this thread.... 10 clams at TSC, makes loading tires easy. Somewhere here @squonk has a good DIY how to thread on loading tires.

1170832.jpg

Here it is

Somebody made off with your pics tho Mike!

I know! It’s that Assange dude or the Ruskies! 

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953 nut
8 hours ago, WHX12 said:

yes 10 clams at TSC, makes loading tires easy and well worth it.

That is what I used along with a drill powered transfer pump I had, just need to prime the pump and hold it below the liquid level and vent the tire from time to time. Wonderful!

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