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Duramax7man7

Matt's Hydro Pedal added to my 90' 520h

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Duramax7man7

I really like this thing. it;s going to make tasks a bit easier... The install didn't go as well as I;d hoped as I attempted to take the steering wheel off to get the motion lever out and out of the way and fill the hole with plastic plug... 

 I hammered the pic out of the steering wheel and began [trying] to twist back and forth and I cranked a little to hard and I thought it popped loose. So I did it in the opposite direction... the steering wheel wasn't coming off though and I could still see straight through the roll pin hole... 

 I Broke the steering shaft mount off clean on both side from the torque I put on it!? I was going to weld it back together but wasn't sure how that would go. Luckily I had an old one that just needed bushings. 

 Got that part back together and setup and then installed the rest of the pedal. Went in pretty easy and Matt surprised me with a new cast reverse pedal. Looks and works great! Thanks @mattd860

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Adams94

I love my foot pedal on my c195!

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Jerry77

It is on my list for when I get the spare money--looks like it would be a very good addition....:)

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WHX??

Agreed Mastiff, I have got one on both my 520 and 416 and nothing like it. I wanted a buddy @Achto to put one on his 520 but I understand  he had  a bad experience once with a foot control!  :lol: 

I was trying to figure out how to keep both controls on a 520 but gave up and snipped the under wheel control off with the Sawzall ....against my nature I know as in wanting to be able to put the tractor back to original.  Roll pins and the wheel did not want to cooperate with my thinking. :)

BTW  bad looking 520 with that rubber .....want us to take up a collection for a new seat tho?:ychain:

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Duramax7man7

Nice tractor Adams! Make that one yourself? Or is that the wheel horse kit I've heard about? 

 

Jerry, it a nice modification for sure. Go for it when you can. 

 

WHX12, yeah I couldn't get the steering wheel off so I pulled it up as high as I could and wiggled the motion control lever out by twisting it forward and across the front of the steering wheel shaft and pulled it through the top half of the steering wheel. It slipped right out. 

 

Thanks. Carlisle Tru power on the back and another brand on the front. It would badder if it was 4x4. ;) ;)... 

 

Thatd be great for a new seat! I couldn't do that to you guys though. Everyone has offered continual wise advice and that is priceless to me. 

 

But here are the ones I'm looking at. 

 

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roadapples

I've got that first seat on two of mine. Love the adjustable suspension...

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Paul Van Benschoten

I just received the kit from Matt and need to find time to install it. Hopefully right after Thanksgiving.

 

I have a 1995 520H and I am toying with the idea of keeping the dash mounted hand control. I would like to remove the hand control to simplify the dashboard but does anyone see a reason to keep it?

 

I have only had this WH 520 for 6 months. I have driven IH Cub Cadets with hydrostatic drives for years. I am use to the left hand hydro control on the cub cadets and I am not used to the right hand control on the 520. I keep raising or lowering the mower deck  whenever I want to change speed. 

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Duramax7man7
1 hour ago, Paul Van Benschoten said:

I just received the kit from Matt and need to find time to install it. Hopefully right after Thanksgiving.

 

I have a 1995 520H and I am toying with the idea of keeping the dash mounted hand control. I would like to remove the hand control to simplify the dashboard but does anyone see a reason to keep it?

 

I have only had this WH 520 for 6 months. I have driven IH Cub Cadets with hydrostatic drives for years. I am use to the left hand hydro control on the cub cadets and I am not used to the right hand control on the 520. I keep raising or lowering the mower deck  whenever I want to change speed. 


it's actually pretty easy. 

 If you want to remove the lever without cutting it or taking the steering wheel off, do this:

-Just pop the sides and two black top plates and right foot rest off as well as the neutral safety switch plate.
-Loosen the Steering wheel shaft collar, remove the linkage from the motion cam and motion lever (that you want to remove) and pop the pins out of the two parts on the motion level so it can be removed
-Then pull the steering wheel up as high as you can while moving the c-clip and collar down as far as they can go and lock the shaft of the steering over column so it stays lifted, then pull out the motion lever.

 Follow the rest of Matt instructions. it goes quick. Mine took so long because I broke the lower steering shaft support like an ape! lol
 

8 hours ago, roadapples said:

I've got that first seat on two of mine. Love the adjustable suspension...


 

Really??? Nice! Got any photos?

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WHX??

No Paul there is no real reason for keeping it other than to keep the originality or if you ever wanted to move the kit to another tractor. The neutral switches can stay where they are as well for the safety minded. the neutral switches can be relocated with some work put I just tie wrapped mine closed.  Good luck

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cleat

Good thing about Matt's kit is the tractor is always at a safe stopped position unless your foot is on the pedal.

 

This pretty much eliminates the real need for a neutral safety switch.

 

None of mine have this any more.

 

Seat switches go as well, I like being able to get off the tractor and move obstructions while mowing.

Also handy when mowing ditches where I am actually off the seat sitting on a fender because of the angle the tractor is on.

 

Cleat

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doc724

I must lead a charmed life.  When I put in the hydro pedal kit in my 416H, I was able to get the steering wheel off without a problem.  I tried all sorts of shenanigans to try to get the original motion control lever off without taking off the steering wheel and eventually I succumbed and with patience I succeeded.  The only issue I had is the foot board antiskid on 1996 and later are thick and the cast reverse pedal travel is limited because of it.  I had to grind a bit off the backside.  Motion is still limited in reverse, but I enjoy it every time I take the machine out to play

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Duramax7man7

Cleat, I agree. I really didn't even have to do much with the adjustments of the rod ends for either the pedal nor the cam links. I had to adjust the cam on the motion arm itself as I removed it to replace the seal around the control arm shaft and didn't fully set it back up. The initial travel setting the control rod end to the pedal at roughly 1/2" was good enough for me. 

 Doc, my 520h is 1990 and it was left outside for a while before I saved it. 

 She was a liiiiitle rough. lol- It's not surprising that I couldn't get it off. Plus I didn't want to make any more of a day of it than I already did. I dn't know how I could have gotten a seized steering wheel off the shaft while it's still on the tractor anyhow. smh. 

This was at the PO's yard... 
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WHX??

Wow if the PO had a deck for it he sure didn't use it. You did a bangup job on cleaning it up tho. :handgestures-thumbupright: 

Nother piece of advice @Paul Van Benschoten clean the paint off the 3/4 shaft the the foot lever slides on, I didn't do mine properly, I was in a bit of a hurry as it was snowing quite hard and this is my main snow mover. It hangs up there  and does not return to neutral properly as  Cleat mentioned it should. On the tractor list of things to redo but should have done it right from the gitgo. :angry-banghead: Lube those pivot points & clean in the tunnel while you have it off

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Adams94
21 hours ago, Mastiffman said:

Nice tractor Adams! Make that one yourself? Or is that the wheel horse kit I've heard about? 

 

Thanks! That is an oem kit, came on the tractor when I bought it, came with the original book for the kit and the date it was bought and how much was paid.  Love it

Edited by Adams94
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Duramax7man7
20 minutes ago, WHX12 said:

Wow if the PO had a deck for it he sure didn't use it. You did a bangup job on cleaning it up tho. :handgestures-thumbupright: 

Nother piece of advice @Paul Van Benschoten clean the paint off the 3/4 shaft the the foot lever slides on, I didn't do mine properly, I was in a bit of a hurry as it was snowing quite hard and this is my main snow mover. It hangs up there  and does not return to neutral properly as  Cleat mentioned it should. On the tractor list of things to redo but should have done it right from the gitgo. :angry-banghead: Lube those pivot points & clean in the tunnel while you have it off


LOLOL- Right! 
 

Thanks. it was filthy when I got it. If you go look at my profile> activity> topics> list you'll be able to find the thread when I tore it down some. The engine cooling fins were packed. I'm really surprise that it didn't have a blown rear intake valve seat with how dirty it was. But the OO must have taken care of it well being it has 2400 hours on it. Not a crack in the frame either. It came with a 42" deck though.  But I;ve replaced numerous seals including the bearing plate oil seal on the engine. I think that my last one is on the side of the axle around the brake drum shaft. Should be the last one. Funny though, now that I replaced the one around the control arm shaft, the one around the brake drum shaft seems to be seeping more. from the pressure I'm assuming. 
 

 Anyway, yeah I ended up cleaning of the front foot pedal shaft as well. The paint was in the way. it went on smooth as butter though after that. I also had to use 2 washers instead of one in between the auto return lever and auto return angle iron as well as 2 washers in between the outside of the cam control and the inside lock washer for the blal bearing to line up dead on the auto return lever. But Matt supplied extra washers so that worked out just fine. 

I made sure to clean the cam rod really well to ensure proper operation as suggested. 360 grit then 1000 grit. lol
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11 minutes ago, Adams94 said:

That is an oem kit, came on the tractor when I bought it, came with the original book for the kit and the date it was bought and how much was paid.  Love it



 Very cool looking and original. Nice. How smooth is it? 

If you are moving forward and you let off the pedal doe sit jerk to a stop?

Edited by Mastiffman
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Adams94
2 minutes ago, Mastiffman said:

 


 Very cool looking and original. Nice. How smooth is it? 

If you are moving forward and you let off the pedal doe sit jerk to a stop?

 

No jerk at all, little bit changing direction but I still have my lever also.  If I let off of it while moving it will just slow up since the hydro lever won't stay forward by itself.

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WHX??

Yes I remember your thread but not the 2400 hrs part! Unbelievable the hr meter is still working!

If that  setup is an OEM option Adams make sure that manual makes it into the files section if not already ther. :handgestures-thumbupright:

BTW that first seat is nice but $$ I bet ..anyone ever thought of quick disconnects so a guy could move seats around to other tractors? :lol:

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Adams94

I will post pics of the manual, as for high hours, dads C195 has around 2370 hours.  Engine was rebuilt at around 1500. Retired now but runs good and hydro is strong. Basically all original 

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Duramax7man7
1 hour ago, WHX12 said:

Yes I remember your thread but not the 2400 hrs part! Unbelievable the hr meter is still working!

If that  setup is an OEM option Adams make sure that manual makes it into the files section if not already ther. :handgestures-thumbupright:

BTW that first seat is nice but $$ I bet ..anyone ever thought of quick disconnects so a guy could move seats around to other tractors? :lol:


Yeah it's still chugging along. I had to replace the RPM gauge. That's the only thing in dash that needed it other than a new Ignition switch. It runs great too. Plowed right through roots this spring and tilled and then again through a few more roots this fall. Used all through the winter last season with the Snow Thrower. Worked awesome!
 

1 hour ago, Adams94 said:

No jerk at all, little bit changing direction but I still have my lever also.  If I let off of it while moving it will just slow up since the hydro lever won't stay forward by itself.


Interesting. Mine jerks a bit when I left off the pedal. I'd like to see the setup inside the steering tower where the cam control is when you get a chance. 
Maybe I should tighten up the auto-centering lever on mine. Matt's instructions said to have no resistance when assembled while still no wobbling from side to side. 

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Adams94
10 minutes ago, Mastiffman said:


Interesting. Mine jerks a bit when I left off the pedal. I'd like to see the setup inside the steering tower where the cam control is when you get a chance. 
Maybe I should tighten up the auto-centering lever on mine. Matt's instructions said to have no resistance when assembled while still no wobbling from side to side. 

Mine does not hook to the cam, it hooks directly to the lever inside the belt cover, I will get pics when I change the drive belt here soon.

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ACman

@Mastiffman I’ve been wanting to do a pedal kit on my 95 520Wheel-a-matic but I’m going to have to add a 3/4” bar to relocate my front foot pads. She sat out in the open for years too but it cleaned up well and thanks to Terry it’s a one of a kind. If I can come up with some wheel spacers I’ll run my 26-12x12 ags off my Kabota and put trailer hubs on the front to run some skinny tri-ribs . I really like the ags on yours. Hope we can meet up sometime. Here’s my before and after pics.

 

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Duramax7man7

Yeah that looks real nice! I didn't do a restore on this one yet. I just threw some new sheet metal on it and made it functional again. Hope to do that one day. 
 
 Yes that would be pretty sweet with the Kubota rears and trailer hubs. I'm in the process of collecting materials and parts to build a custom tractor with a beefed up, stretched frame, 4x4 and a 3 cylinder diesel based off of a wheel horse 520 setup.

 I want to make it full loader ready as well. I'm aiming for a BX - B series Kubota without all of the extra overhead costs while having fun and learning along the way and maybe opening up some cheaper ideas for others wanting to make their wheel horse full blown 4x4.

It will take some time finding parts but I picked up a 93 Toro Groundsmaster that will provide much of them. if I could have found Groundsmaster 4x4, that would have been ideal.  

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ACman

My buddy runs the maintenance at one of the golf clubs close by and our local course looks like they’re closing down :( . I’ll check to see what they have laying around . Also there might be something at my dads shop that you might just have to have as there’s stuff everywhere.

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mattd860

Hi All. Thanks for the continued interest in my kits. If anybody wants one before next spring please let me know soon because I'm going to suspend production until then. I'm going to be renovating my house so I'll be using the workshop for storage. Please let me know by early next week if you wish to order. Thanks!

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JoeM

Good deal on the foot control. I installed one for a friend of mine a while back and was able leave the hand control hooked up too. He was using it on a FEL and said there are times when in a awkward position to use the hand control. (short legs)!

The first pic I used a longer bolt it included the hand lever rod and the second pic is where I ground the neutral alignment slot out. I did add an extra centering spring to the return inside of the larger one.

This is not a Matt unit, it is a crank type. But I think the extra spring and grinding the slot will wonk as well. 

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