Front bar on frame for 314-8

[PAguy 5]

This weekend I had an issue where my pivot pins retaining ring came off without my noticing and placed pressure on the front bar that's welded to the frame and bolts the hood and front hitch down. 

I can easily replace the pivot pin but am wondering about how difficult it is to weld this bar back on. The farmer down the road from me is able to weld it but was hoping maybe someone could share how they accomplished this given the tight space. This afternoon once its warmed up I intend to clean up the area well and take the front axel off to prep for the welding so that won't be an issue. 

Photo attached 

[Jerry77 1,216]

Maybe I don't have a good grasp on what the situation is, but if it just welding on the rear side, I would take out the battery, empty the gas tank and drain the oil from the engine....then tip the tractor on it's side to get a good vertical angle to weld....I wouldn't try an overhead weld in that tight of a space. The old weld will need to be ground down first.  On the other hand, if it wouldn't interfere with anything, you could grind a bevel on both pieces and weld it just as it is with the weldment on the outside..

[PAguy 5]

Thank you that's a help. An outside weld would not interfere since your just bolting to the front of it. I was just not sure if a front weld would be sufficient or not. 

[Ed Kennell 33,217]

2 hours ago, Jerry77 said:

 On the other hand, if it wouldn't interfere with anything, you could grind a bevel on both pieces and weld it just as it is with the weldment on the outside..

                                                

Forget about welding on the inside or you will have the same or worse weld that just broke.    

Grind a 30 Degree bevel 2/3 of the thickness on the ends of the frame angles and a matching bevel on the face plate.

Disconnect the battery.     

Attach the ground to clean shiny metal surface on the frame rail.   

Strike the first arc on the ground clamp sliding it off to the frame...in effect tack welding the ground clamp to the frame rail.

Weld the groove full with multiple passes.  

This will be 10X stronger than the factory fillet weld

Edited November 12, 2017 by Ed Kennell

[PAguy 5]

Thank you this is very helpful I'll provide and update once we have finished. The farmer that is going to help with the weld is free next weekend so we will do it then. 

[Ed Kennell 33,217]

Oh, pardon my manners.   

 

               to the      Always good to have another Pee Aaa  horse lover.

[857 horse 2,580]

Well,,,,,i just learned a new word,,,,,,and what ever ED just said,,,,,,sounded pretty  bad  Azz........Thanks Ed,,,,!!!!!

 

Weldment........<======= Id like to use that someday,,,,,If its OK,,,,with all concerned !!!!!!!!

 

thanks much,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Howard 857,,,,,down under in VA

[Ed Kennell 33,217]

I

1 hour ago, 857 horse said:

Well,,,,,i just learned a new word,,,,,

 

Weldment........<======= Id like to use that someday,,,,,If its OK,,,,with all concerned !!!!!!!

I think Jerry would probably be OK with that Howard.  Just make sure you can do it all.

 

Edited November 13, 2017 by Ed Kennell

[Sarge 3,462]

Howard , you have some of the finest Pipeliners in the nation in your neck of the woods - show it to one of those guys (most should be off for the winter) and let them fix it . You'll never break that joint again...

7018 is your choice of rod .

 

Sarge

[Pollack Pete 2,273]

Hmmmmm.....I've seen a lot of used,abused,re-used and mis-treated Wheel Horse tractors,but I have never seen one break there.Like Sarge just said,have a pipe welder stick it back together.You'll never have a problem there again.

[Ed Kennell 33,217]

Look closely at the weld on the left frame rail. (right side on the first picture)      The factory weld never penetrated the face plate.  The right side was all that held it together.

 

Howard could fix this after he perfects his technique to make a  full penetration butt weldment.