Jump to content
Joe Cubells

D200 trans axle

Recommended Posts

Joe Cubells

My 1975 D200 needs a replacement or rebuild of its rear trans axle- does anyone out there know where I can find one, or a shop that can do a rebuild?

 

thanks, Joe C

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
daveoman1966

Are you sure the  transaxle needs rebuild, or is it the  hydro pump and motor systems that needs repair.  

Can you describe your problems with the D-200 .....what is wrong with it?

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Joe Cubells

Well, the trans axle has leaked oil for a long time, but was slow enough just to be a minor nuisance, until over the summer while I was mowing the wheels locked- would turn about one revolution fwd or bkwd whether under power or after opening the push valve and pushing- but then that problem suddenly gave way when I tried a lot of back and forth with the drive lever. Then the oil leak got a lot worse- so much so that it was not possible to keep it full for any length of time. 

 

Brought to to a good shop, and they told me it was the transaxle. Have been looking for a replacement since August.

 

I read another post here that leads me to believe I may have fractured the case by jamming a loose bolt against it :(. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
R. L. Addison

I'm in process of putting a "D" series transaxle in my "C" series. The difference in them is the axles, the "D"'s are longer.

It's not much of a problem to change the units as far as technical knowledge, but it is a lot of work, and time consuming. Wish you were close & I would give you a hand,. with parts & labor. Good luck. Ron   dunngawn@hotmail.com

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pacer

This was/is a fairly common problem with the D's -- a bolt in the differential has broken, or the nut backed off and the loose piece drops to the bottom of the case and as the gears are turning they will strike the broken piece against the case causing it to crack/break. If youre lucky the case will be the only part damaged. Grade 5 bolts were used and they just wernt up to the strain that the bigger D's put on them and eventually break, this was corrected with later models by using grade 8. (On repair many owners got to grade 9) Also many owners have had luck with welding or brazing the cracks closed (2 of my D's are brazed)

 

The removal is fairly straight forward though quite labor intensive, the MAJOR problem will be removing the axle hubs! There is only one gasket, its between the 2 case halves - and, they are no longer available so youll have to make your own - pretty easy to do. Then there is a set of O rings to replace and if you should need, the axle seals.

 

There are several posts on this procedure throughout the forum on this and many, many of us have done it, so you should have plenty of help!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ol550
5 hours ago, pacer said:

 

 

The removal is fairly straight forward though quite labor intensive, the MAJOR problem will be removing the axle hubs! There is only one gasket, its between the 2 case halves - and, they are no longer available so youll have to make your own - pretty easy to do. Then there is a set of O rings to replace and if you should need, the axle seals.

 

 

 

If you decide to tackle this, don't overwhelm yourself with the hubs for too long. The axles extend far enough from the case that you can split the transaxle halves far enough to unbolt the

differential case and remove the axle snap rings and slide the axles out. Then press the axles out of the hubs as it would be a real pain to assemble with the hubs on.

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pacer
56 minutes ago, ol550 said:

Then press the axles out of the hubs as it would be a real pain to assemble with the hubs on.

 

This is actually the better way to go about this - After pulling my hair out trying to get ONE off while on the tractor, I did as 550 suggests and put them under a 20ton press, and even then it strained the press-- they are tough!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Joseph Cubells

Wow-- You  all are awesome-- thanks for all the tips-- I will need to show this discussion to the guys at the shop-- no way I would try this on my own!  So I saw in one post that some folks re-drill the bolt holes and replace them with heavier duty ones-- is this advisable?

 

Thanks again,

 

Joe

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
daveoman1966

Since you have to take the trans apart anyway, and once you have the transmission COMPLETELY  separated from the tractor, you can split the cases apart by removing the 5 or 6 bolts holding it together.  Spread it apart several inches , then reach in ...with long wrenches....and remove the 4 differential bolts, letting the diff come apart too.  Then you'll have each trans side, wtih axle in it.  The axle will slide right out, then you can put it in a hyd press to gt the axle hub off.  This is a WHOLE LOT easier than fighting to get the hubs off, then separate the trans cases.

D8.jpg

Edited by daveoman1966
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Joseph Cubells


Thanks again-- I will need to show this to the guys in the shop... this work is way beyond my pay grade!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Joseph Cubells

Well, Pacer had it exactly right-- a bolt came loose and got chewed up by the gears-- what a mess (see pic). The guys at Manchester Power House have pulled the transaxle apart-- the 46-tooth gear, part 4-29A (or 101887 on one of the parts warehouse sites) has some chipped teeth. Does anyone know where I can find a replacement?  It is a discontinued part.

IMG_0371 2.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
R. L. Addison

If that is the "bull" gear, I have one.It would have to be drilled out as per service bulletin and derusted, and I would have to be sure it is 1 1/8 flanges. If it is needed I may be able to drill it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Joseph Cubells

Thank you-- let me check with Skip at the shop about the re-drilling.

 

I found on Ebay a set of transaxle components from a C-161.  The picture looks like the part I need, but there are no part #s listed, so I cannot really tell-- does anyone know if the transaxle from te C-161 is comparable to the D-200?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
"D"- Man

I am not sure what the end caps from a C-161 look like, but I have a partially assembled differential from an 18 Automatic {above} and a D-180 {below} these are for the smaller bolts {above} and the larger bolts {below}.  As can be seen, .the bolt holes were bored close to the edge.

IMG_20160731_105455.thumb.jpg.ec4d04536efd4bf98ec61cb66ed7b2fa.jpg

This is what could happen to an end cap that originally had the smaller holes and subsequently has been bored out for the larger diameter bolts.

IMG_20161203_173135706.jpg

This is why I recommend upgrading to the ring gear and end caps that were designed for the larger bolts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • cbj75
      By cbj75
      I have a 1975 D200 Wheel Horse with front mount dozer blade, package includes Wheel Horse Dump Trailer, 48" belly mower side discharge, Wheel Horse front and rear wheel weights, turning brakes, rear PTO and 3-point to 2" receiver attachment, and Brinley twin disc harrow. Rear luggage/rack carrier, All refurbished, sandblasted and painted Ford red in 2016. Lots of extra Wheel Horse parts included.
       
      Package price $3000.00.
       
      Bryce Johnson
      102 Anglers PT
      Mc Cormick SC 29835
      913-638-6788

      IMG_1962.HEIC IMG_1965.HEIC IMG_0279.HEIC


       
    • Crazy Old Red Horse
      By Crazy Old Red Horse
      Barn find 1975 D180. 608 original hours. Tractor and 48” belly mower look to be still in their original paint. Rear 60” finish mower looks like it has had one coat of new paint added at some point. Open to trades. Please email me with any questions or for additional photos. 35 miles north of Pittsbugh.


    • wh315-8
      By wh315-8
      Grandpa wouldn't line up in right way.  Stubborn. Nice day today, got some of my herd out. 315-8 w/42" deck to mow. D200 to disc w/tandem disc. 520H w/36" tiller. And RJ59 with 36" Parker Sweeper. These horses done me well today.


    • SpindleyEbersol
      By SpindleyEbersol
      I repowered my D200 last winter.  I got the for/rev handle on wrong.  It’ll just drift and has no resistance if you’re operating it.  I would like to put a fiber washer in the linkage somewhere.  Any ideas.  These are just some pics of the repower.  




    • DarrellF
      By DarrellF
      Guess since I broke the hub and found that bad axle keyway I’m going to pull the rear and rebuild it
      might as well, cause I need to replace the axle. This way I get a good look inside and inspect everything.
      Also change the bull gear bolts to mark 8, seals, bearings, whatever it needs.
      1: looks like I’ll need to make a new gasket
      2: Axle seals
      3: Bull gear bolts and nuts 5/16 mark 8 
      4: O-rings 
      5: and Anything else as I inspect
      6: Not sure what torque specs are but I'm sure someone will know.
      This way she will be tip top and painted.
      I will post pics as I go not sure when I’ll start but I need her fixed.
       
       
       
       
×
×
  • Create New...