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blake616

520 just quit

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blake616

My 520H just quit running all of a sudden yesterday. It was like I shut the key off.  I was unable to get it to start 2-3 tries. I went to get a tow strap and tried one more time and it restarted fine. I used it for the next 1.5 hours to finish my lawn. The magneto on the flywheel was replaced last fall and I used it many times after that. 

 

The only thing I noticed is that my voltage gauge is at the bottom of the green area when running full throttle. It drops into the yellow area at idle.

 

Any thoughts or suggestions?

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Tim.0

Just guessing experts will be coming,

something electrical; safety switch of some kind, key start switch, something in the ignition wiring which would cause no spark (something loose). Fuel vapor lock from being to hot could also shut it down, but I am leaning to a electrical gremlin.

Tim O

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WVHillbilly520H

The main harness 9 pin connector, or a bad/loose ground, would be my first areas of investigation, then move on to the safety switches, if you haven't already download the manuals and demystification guide for your specific model/year 520, Jeff.

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cafoose

I would go through this thread. I found with mine the coil was weak and the ignition module was failing:

 

 

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KC9KAS

@blake616 The 520's are notorious for "electrical woes". As stated above, the 9 pin connector can be the culprit, or some other connection .

Start off by cleaning all the connections and especially the grounds!

I don't know if I have said,  :text-welcomeconfetti: to :rs:, but  :text-welcomeconfetti: to :rs:

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lynnmor

Do not tow the tractor, transmission damage may result.

 

I just noticed on my 520H that just jiggling the key makes the voltmeter waver.  Switch will be replaced soon.

 

The 9 pin connector is always the first suspect.

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boovuc

You can tow the 520 and all Eaton 11/1100 transmissions if you do it right! (Read the manuals).

Place the motion control lever full forward, (brake off of course and slowly tow the "POS" back to the barn). Older Non-Eaton hydros have a tow screw that "should" be opened before towing to prevent hydraulic pressure from building while it is moving.

Thank God you can tow a 520! Otherwise you would find them sitting in many a field and yard just where they crapped out! 

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boovuc

To the OP,

Not only should you look at the 9 pin connector but all the connectors on your tractor. Start first with the 9 pin. Break it open and look for bad or broken pins and disconnected wires. Next, hit with with contact cleaner about 3 or 4 times. Next, put it together and coat the connector with a dielectric grease to keep the moisture out. Do the same with all the connectors on your 520. Even the ignition switch connector and your battery terminals. (Seat Safety switch, PTO Switch, brake switch, etc. Clean the contacts on the starter/solenoid as well). 

If a few rounds of this doesn't fix the issue, then turn your attention to the coil first since you replaced the magneto in the recent past.

If your insane like most of us are, you'll have another Onan fired WH around. Take the coil off of it and swap them out. That is one of the benefits of having a herd verses just one tractor. If you have Onan powered tractors, by six more. That should keep one or two running for awhile!

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lynnmor
46 minutes ago, boovuc said:

You can tow the 520 and all Eaton 11/1100 transmissions if you do it right! (Read the manuals).

Place the motion control lever full forward, (brake off of course and slowly tow the "POS" back to the barn). Older Non-Eaton hydros have a tow screw that "should" be opened before towing to prevent hydraulic pressure from building while it is moving.

Thank God you can tow a 520! Otherwise you would find them sitting in many a field and yard just where they crapped out! 

With a decal right on the tractor saying hand push only, I never dared to tow one. Moving the motion lever in either doesn't seem to make much difference in the resistance and clicking sound when hand pushing.  YMMV

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ohiofarmer

  You may as well try the simple things first, and I speak from experience with my 520. There is a safety switch on the blade engagement clutch that is pretty close to the battery and underneath it. Operate the hand clutch and you should be able to find it behind the hood stand. Acid /fumes from the battery and grass clipping dust can aid in its corrosion. Close to the switch is the fuse block and it also shares in the corrosion problem because it is also open to dust worming its way into the fuses so badly that the legs of the fuse corrode. Blow off the dust and use a good penetrant or maybe some contact cleaner.

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boovuc

I forgot about the slow baking fuse holders in the 500 series tractors. They hold debris inside and with dampness slowly turn the fuses into works of abstract art. (Think Salvatore Dali). 

Lynnmor, I know what the decal says but as long as you move them slow, it doesn't matter if they are pushed or towed. Old men can't push them back to base like young guys can. And in mud or uphill, tow is the way to go. 

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ericj

the longer it has been since an eaton 1100 has been run the easier it is to push. At the big show my 97 416-H died and could not  get it to start and had none of my secret weapons available to get it started so,,,,  I had it towed real slow back to the show barn. when the show was over I jumped the starter and got it to start drove it to the trailer. it then started on its own to load in trailer, go figure right. but the point I want to make is you can tow real slow and not hurt the trans, it is better to let it sit till the pressure bleeds off

 

 

 

 

 

eric j 

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