Jump to content
BigMan-TinyTractor

Bizarre fuel issue with a D-250... Never witnessed this before.

Recommended Posts

BigMan-TinyTractor

,Hi all...

 

I bought a D-250 a while back and I really like it but she's got a couple ghost problems that I can't seem to wrap my head around.

 

I believe that it's a '76. It has the Renault engine in it.

 

So three different times now... I've hit a small stump, stopping the mower dead in it's tracks. All three episodes were moderately violent. In two of the occasions, it stalled the mower after I disengaged the deck and backed off of the stump.

 

So here's where it gets weird.

 

After each incident, the mower would no longer start.  If I pulled the choke all the way on, it'd fire up and rev to the sky... Like sketchy high rpms which all three times was the only way I could limp it back to the barn.

 

After completing cooling down and tweaking the fuel mixture screw back and forth, I've been able to get it to run well again...

 

Sometimes I can ease the choke off and the governor goes crazy surging off and on... But in most cases, it simply won't run with the choke off.

 

So what in the heck does this have to do with the impacts?

 

The only theory I currently have is that it jolts the fuel tank and fuel filter badly enough to shake up some contamination... But that's just a wild guess. It's also definitely temperature related, because I can mess with carb settings enough to fix it so long as it isn't up to temperature yet.

 

So there it is... Any of you guys ever heard of a crash related fuel issue?

 

I feel like I'm going crazy. I know I'm missing something here in the troubleshooting.

 

Thanks a bunch!

 

Jacob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Dakota8338

Take your fuel filter "out" line off the filter nipple and see if the fuel passing through the filter is nice & clear, or dark, crudy cloudy etc.  If the filter is not passing nice clear fuel, it should be replaced.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
BigMan-TinyTractor

I understand completely, thanks.

 

The fuel filter seems okay.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
rmaynard

You are probably on the right track when you say "crash related fuel issue". A complete fuel system flush seems to be the first thing I would try. It also sounds like the sudden impact may have "tweaked" the governor a bit. Since I have zero knowledge of the Renault engine, I am only speculating. Good luck!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ericj

watch the stumps !!!!!!!!!!! mark them so as not to hit them. What would happen if when you hit the stump you lfet the tractor sit and cool down before attempting the restart

 

 

 

eric j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • BMW1
      By BMW1
      What gauges were standard on wheel horse D160 D180 D200 series tractors?
      Was the dash light only an option on the D200?
       
      On D180 and D200 series tractors I've seen, it seems like they all had Ammeter, oil pressure, and transmission temperature.
      I've only seen engine hours and dashlight on one D200.
       
      I'm not sure about D160.  I have never seen one up close.
       
      Thanks.
       
    • Brandon Byers
      By Brandon Byers
      I know I'm half a year ahead of schedule! 

       
      I picked this 1974 D-180 up early last year. It had a pretty hard life, and the previous owner gave his best attempt at keeping it alive. Hydro was strong so I serviced it and put it to work mowing all year. I decided if it would make it through the season then it would get some TLC. By fall it was burning about a quart of oil an hour but it made it. I have no clue how many hours are on it, every hole, bushing, bearing on this tractor is pooched. If you look closely, somebody used two 1" NPT Pipe Flanges to rebuild the mounting points for the upper 3 point cylinder. Hey it works!
      I rebuilt the steering gearbox and re-bushed the front axle along with making new spindles. 
      I had the 482 Kohler bored .20 over (it was .10 over already) and gave it a rebuild with the intention of putting it back to work on snow duty. 
      I then dawned on me that this tractor will be 50 years old next year - and these old D's are becoming harder and harder to find anymore. So I decided to customize it a bit and go for what a maybe a dealership would offer for a 50th anniversary model if Wheel Horse was still in business today (In another universe, maybe!) 
       
      As D's aren't known for their looks - and I can't leave anything alone. I took approximately 2 Inches out of the grille and bezel. 
      I updated most of the wiring and lights. Gave it a new set of Carlisle Ags along with Vredestein front ribs. It got a new seat and I painted all the accents aluminum. 
      I patched, rebuilt the 48" deck and put new blades, wheels, and hardware on it. The Blade & 3 point scoop somebody adapted to it also got some attention.  
      Lastly I stripped it most of the way down and painted it with IH red acrylic urethane enamel. 
      I always forget to take pictures during my projects but here's a few: 
       
      Before: 
       
       
       





       
      After: 




       
      Thanks for reading!!
    • Tenday
      By Tenday
      Experts - help please. I’m new to Wheel Horse Tractor life! 
       
      So - I’ve pulled out an inherited tractor and have decided to resurrect her. Unfortunately, no spark :/ 
       
      I’m looking for help on diagnosing no spark. 
       
      model - 417-8 
      engine - Kohler KT17
       
      Done thus far:  (aware that some have no implication on spark.) 
       
      - new ignition switch 
      - new battery 
      - new starter
      - new ignition coil and wires w/ plugs 
      - new condenser 
      - new points 
      - new starter solenoid 
      - bypassed all switches except oil and seat. 

      notes:

      idiot lights removed. 
       
      All fuses tested with Ohms as well as visual inspection  .. 
       
      coil tested w/ ohms as well
       
      all switches bypassed except: 
      -oil switch  ( don’t think it has any implications other than a visual indication for idiot lights. ) 
      -seat switch 
       
      ran a pos from batt direct to pos of coil - nothing; no spark. 
       
       
      Electric is as follows:  
       
      - Starter switch wired to solenoid
      - - solenoid to starter 
      - - solenoid to batt
       
      - one wire from starter switch goes to engine ( I think this is for batt charge / flywheel) 
       
      - I have two yellow wires, which are married up, that go to engine which have constant power; They power coil.  Comes from switch and seat. 

       
       
       
      Help - what the heck am I missing ? 
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
    • blu_stang
      By blu_stang
      Hi All, It's time for me to sell the D-250 I've had for the last 8 years.  It’s useable as is, or would be a great project bundle for further restoration.
       
      I am selling a large package: the running tractor, a refurbished snowblower (48”), parts snowblower, mower deck (60”), tiller (40”), front plow blade (60”), Cat 0 3-Point Hitch with adjustable top link, WH 3-Point tool bar, wheel weights and tire chains.  Also included is an extensive part collection, nearly a second tractor worth.  I will include the original manuals, an original 1976 sales brochure, and repair manuals for the tractor and the engine.  I made electronic copes of all of the above, and stored the paper copies to prevent further wear. This is one of the most complete D-250 tractor/attachment bundles I’ve seen.
       
      Some highlights from the available parts: Frame rails, extra engine, water pump, extra transaxle, extra gears, including worm gears (stored in oil bath), Front wheel set, carburetor, carb rebuild kit, rebuildable original radiator, extra radiator overflow bottle, rebuilt alternator, new voltage regulator (I was planning to change over to an alternator setup from the generator), new in package Renault engine seals, new PTO seals, ignition maintenance parts.  There are also many panels, frame pieces, cables, levers, tubes (lines) and hardware in the collection.
       
      The tractor engine runs smooth.  There are around 1050 original hours on it; It’s a 1976 edition.  Everything works, except the dash lights and the rear lights (disconnected b/c of fender).  I just haven't sorted out the wiring, but it is all there.  Headlights are good and working, as are all of the gears and levers.  The four tires are nearly new Carlisle Multi Trac, with nubs still on them.  The rear tires have been filled (ballasted) with Rim Guard for extra traction.  The hydraulic pump, front PTO clutch and brakes operate but could use a tune up.  I’ve used it for mowing and snowblowing on hills, driveway and around my land. I don’t have an original WH seat.  The snowblower was rebuilt a few years back, and assembled with all new hardware and bearings.  The mower deck gearbox was professionally serviced recently, and has a new set of blades with only a half dozen mows.  The rear fender needs a repair, but all pieces are available.  The plow and tiller are due for restoration.  The Points, Condenser and rotor have all been replaced and tuned in.  The battery is good.  I've rebuilt the carb, replaced the fuel pump and changed out the plugs within the last 30 hours.  The replacement radiator is from a Kawasaki engine; it was installed with new hoses. There are also new custom hydraulic hoses and a new hydraulic lift cylinder.
       
      Here's a video of me mowing, this past summer.
       
      Transporting this haul in one trip will require a pickup truck and a large trailer.  









    • BMW1
      By BMW1
      I bought a 3 point hitch from someone on Face book but the 3 point hitch lift assembly bearings were not included.
      The are NLA. 
       
      Does any know a supplier for these or have two they are willing to sell? 
      I looked at McMaster and could not find one with the sizes needed.
       
      The part# is 8340 in the 3 point hitch diagram below. 
       
      Thank You.

×
×
  • Create New...