By Little Red Horse
Hey all. I have a Electro 12 with a factory belly blade. It runs* and drives. I had used it to grade my driveway the last 6 yrs. Having moved I'm looking at my options on storing it or selling it. Frankly I have no idea what it is worth. I watched "ISaveTractors" video on 5 things to do with a new to you wheel horse/12hp kohler. (When i got it 6yrs ago) And went thru and did the adjustments and replaced the parts mentioned. It has been a good strong tractor for me until around July of this year. (2023)
*Around July it started dying after running 20-30min. I replaced the carb (Chinese Amazon purchase) with one from isavetractors web site. That seemed to help it idle smoother(the old carbs jets wouldnt adjust), but it still dies at around 20-30min.
So I've got 2 questions.
1. What is it worth? (As-Is) and
2. What do I need to do to fix it?
I am looking for a replacement Kohler for a 1980 c165,it is cradle mounted.
Will a standard mount Kohler work, if I remove the cradle?
I am located in Massachusetts
Hello all. I am looking for suggestions on adapting the pto from my C series tractor to a harbor freight predator 420 13hp engine. I know the predator motors are a controversial topic however it is the route I have chosen for this particular machine. The intent was to mostly use it for plowing so no PTO required but it would be handy to have. Looking to hear from someone that has successfully done the swap that may offer any advice before I attempt to transfer it over. Just looking for any general pointers that will help me along the way to make it go as smoothly as possible.
Experts - help please. I’m new to Wheel Horse Tractor life!
So - I’ve pulled out an inherited tractor and have decided to resurrect her. Unfortunately, no spark :/
I’m looking for help on diagnosing no spark.
model - 417-8
engine - Kohler KT17
Done thus far: (aware that some have no implication on spark.)
- new ignition switch
- new battery
- new starter
- new ignition coil and wires w/ plugs
- new condenser
- new points
- new starter solenoid
- bypassed all switches except oil and seat.
idiot lights removed.
All fuses tested with Ohms as well as visual inspection ..
coil tested w/ ohms as well
all switches bypassed except:
-oil switch ( don’t think it has any implications other than a visual indication for idiot lights. )
ran a pos from batt direct to pos of coil - nothing; no spark.
Electric is as follows:
- Starter switch wired to solenoid
- - solenoid to starter
- - solenoid to batt
- one wire from starter switch goes to engine ( I think this is for batt charge / flywheel)
- I have two yellow wires, which are married up, that go to engine which have constant power; They power coil. Comes from switch and seat.
Help - what the heck am I missing ?
Summary: Solid mounts a year ago were very nice. Removed balance gears last December. Unacceptable. Installed eBay originals in good condition. I can ride it again at full throttle AND keep my fillings.
Long story (I have the day off):
A thread inspired me last December to look and see if my balance gears were doing well and the rear one was a wobbler. Removed them. She was burning too much oil - original rebuild was just a stone hone and power was not as it should be - it took months to get it bored .020. Hard to find in GA. Installed everything and started her up. Solid mounts USED to be great! That old off-idle vibration that shook the hood was gone thanks to those mounts. A little more vibration was OK. After the removal of the balance gears - NOT! The thing makes my butt numb and I can't mow at higher than about 2500 RPM. The hood vibrates just too much.
Decided to shop Flea Bay for some used, but OK, mounts. Toro prices are . . . the usual Toro prices. Mine were shot and tossed in the bin. Easily installed, right?
I thought in my ignorance that I could just remove a solid mount one at a time and pop-in the originals. Heck, the mount rubber has to be pressed in! Who knew? My old ones weren't like this at the restoration years ago.
Delayed while I figured how to pull the engine on my own. I used to just throw it up on the bench but I've grown more cautious. No buds around in the AM for assistance. Tied some 10 gauge wire around a 2x3. Put one end on the table saw and lifting was easy. Still have to lift the weight but no bending and it was going on the floor. Dead lift at knee level. Pulled the 2x3 across the table to extend the engine to the side of the tractor and let her down slowly.
Engine bay still pretty clean and the engine oil was due for its 1 hour drop after the rebuild anyway. Looked fine.
How to get those mounts in? Tried a C clamp and a socket as a spacer - too clumsy. Greased them up nicely and got longer bolts - tightening them a bit at a time and nudging the mounts into the hole with a blunt object. Turned out not to be a bother!
I've learned not to throw things away. It always seems that you need something the day after it's in the garbage truck. I still had the grounding lead and the large mount washers.
The wife assisted in the re-installation. Kinda' freaked her out. Back in place, and I got to clean the lower engine area from that minor oil leak around the fuel pump. Attracted grass clippings like a magnet.
A few bulb squeezes to start her up and, glorious! No more teeth chattering and I can take her up to 3600 if I like - sounds wonderful and she tore through the deep, deep crab grass. Don't discount those mounts. Sure, that off idle vibration is back and stronger than before. Nothing like a fresh bore for power. Something to spend time on tomorrow.
Now, what to do with these?