Jump to content
1.big.l

70' electro 12 wiring diagram

Recommended Posts

pfrederi

Looks very nice.  I do hope you are getting a bigger cable for your + battery terminal and from the solenoid to starter.  Should be at least 6 gauge.

 

Are you  getting 12v to the small + terminal on the coil.  For you rPTO issue look at this thread about what is involved i Electric PTO repair.

 

A manual PTO is  viable alternative and simple swap.

 

 

Edited by pfrederi
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
6bg6ga

You've been busy.  Right above the battery where the wires are going thru a steel sleeve is the only problem I see.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oldredrider

The "steel sleeve" is a fuel line mounting point. Upgrade the battery wiring and you should be good to go.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
6bg6ga

The "steel sleeve" and the wires are not a good mix. After a while the insulation will chap and you will have a short. I suggest that you use a NON conductive sleeve inside the "steel Sleeve" to eliminate possible trouble in the future. The steel sleeve may be fine for a rubber fuel line to run thru it but that is even questionable.  Its better to go a little on the safe side than chance a fuel line leak in the case of the "Steel Sleeve" or electrical wires chaffing and shorting against metal or ground as it would be.

 

After looking at the battery cable it needs to be a larger diameter to carry the draw.

Edited by 6bg6ga
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut

I agree that the starter circuit wire needs to be a #8 or #6 AWG. Also the battery negative wire should be moved to the engine block, perhaps a starter mounting bolt or engine mounting bolt. I keep some scraps of PEX plumbing pipe in the shop to use as a conduit for wires or fuel lines if it looks like chafing could occur. Any home under construction will have scraps in the trash when the plumber gets done, unless they are like me and they bring them home!   :teasing-tease:

 

 

Edited by 953 nut
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
1.big.l
On 6/11/2017 at 3:27 PM, pfrederi said:

Looks very nice.  I do hope you are getting a bigger cable for your + battery terminal and from the solenoid to starter.  Should be at least 6 gauge.

 

Are you  getting 12v to the small + terminal on the coil.  For you rPTO issue look at this thread about what is involved i Electric PTO repair.

 

A manual PTO is  viable alternative and simple swap.

 

 

Thanks everyone!!! I figured it out that it was the points werent gapped properly. Thats why i didnt get spark. No it backfires because the intake valve is hanging open. and i know i need bigger gauge wire it was temp job i did. It was just what i had laying around for the time being. And id rather keep the pto electric since i have nothing invested in it yet.

by the way...

I thought the metal sleve is where the wiring went because thats where it sat when i first got this thing. so when i get home i will move the wiring and when i go to the repair shop this weekend ill get the proper gauge wiring i need. I will also move the battery ground to the engine block bolts

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

The two bearings in the electric PTO can be had and are not that expensive I paid about $25 for the two of them.  You may need a shim or two depending on the bearing surface in your PTO they used different ones over time.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
1.big.l

so yesterday i changed the battery cables, bumped them up to 6 gauge wire, also installed new band clamps with rubber around it.IMG_5443.PNG.af3576641bc613d6f10c77d0e382faca.PNG

 

 

i found out that where i mounted my starter solenoid that the hood brace was touching the power terminal on the starter side of the solenoid so i had to flip it like this. the part circled is the mounting post the hood was hitting and arcing off of.

IMG_5445.PNG.e37304f11cab666a0ee72f5060c3b8bf.PNG 

 

so i clean the carb, pour some fuel in it and it runs... the pto even works!!!! but the bearing is blown out of it so i have a friend that makes high speed bearings, he can make bearings for me if i cant find new ones. other then pieces to function n saftey like the shifter cover plate and the mule drive this things ready to go. thanks again everyone. when i do the resto, ill be sure to post the build up!

On 6/13/2017 at 1:20 PM, pfrederi said:

The two bearings in the electric PTO can be had and are not that expensive I paid about $25 for the two of them.  You may need a shim or two depending on the bearing surface in your PTO they used different ones over time.

pto works i just need bearings

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

6207-40nsl  and 6204-nsl  ball bearings if you cn't source locally try EB Atmus

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
1.big.l
4 hours ago, pfrederi said:

6207-40nsl  and 6204-nsl  ball bearings if you cn't source locally try EB Atmus

where can i get them from?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
6bg6ga
6 hours ago, 1.big.l said:

where can i get them from?

 

Every bearing has a number on it a part number. These can be cross referenced to other manufacturers other brands. As long as a number can be seen a replacement most of the time can be found actually about 99% of the time. There are a few proprietary bearings that cannot be purchased one of which is the shaft bearing for a Pro Charger  P1200 supercharger of which the bearing manufacturer ONLY sells to Pro Charger. It however is a 65,000 RPM bearing. It is highly doubtful that Wheel Horse had any such agreement with a bearing manufacturer since the bearing used is a extremely common everyday type bearing.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
1.big.l
1 hour ago, 6bg6ga said:

 

Every bearing has a number on it a part number. These can be cross referenced to other manufacturers other brands. As long as a number can be seen a replacement most of the time can be found actually about 99% of the time. There are a few proprietary bearings that cannot be purchased one of which is the shaft bearing for a Pro Charger  P1200 supercharger of which the bearing manufacturer ONLY sells to Pro Charger. It however is a 65,000 RPM bearing. It is highly doubtful that Wheel Horse had any such agreement with a bearing manufacturer since the bearing used is a extremely common everyday type bearing.  

Ok so as long as i cam find 1 of each of 

those bearings i will be ok? I found some results on amazon and ebay.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
6bg6ga
21 minutes ago, 1.big.l said:

Ok so as long as i cam find 1 of each of 

those bearings i will be ok? I found some results on amazon and ebay.

 

I have not had good luck purchasing bearings off Ebay and I question Amazon quality also.  If it were me I would go to the local bearing shop with both bearings in hand. The reason I suggest that you take the originals with you is there is another factor and that is the tolerance of the bearing. Some like (example) the 608Z is available in different tolerances. The 608Z NT is a precision motor bearing for the Bodine gear reduction motor. However, a standard 608Z  ABCD tolerance bearing will vary so much that it cannot be used in that instance.

 

Pay a little more and purchase only once and you will be happy that you don't have to make multiple purchases to obtain EXACTLY what you need.  Having said that...generally a numbered bearing will exchange with another of the same number. So, the numbers have to be exactly the same. The example again the 608Z NT isn't the same as a 608Z ABCD or a 608ZZ.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
1.big.l
27 minutes ago, 6bg6ga said:

 

I have not had good luck purchasing bearings off Ebay and I question Amazon quality also.  If it were me I would go to the local bearing shop with both bearings in hand. The reason I suggest that you take the originals with you is there is another factor and that is the tolerance of the bearing. Some like (example) the 608Z is available in different tolerances. The 608Z NT is a precision motor bearing for the Bodine gear reduction motor. However, a standard 608Z  ABCD tolerance bearing will vary so much that it cannot be used in that instance.

 

Pay a little more and purchase only once and you will be happy that you don't have to make multiple purchases to obtain EXACTLY what you need.  Having said that...generally a numbered bearing will exchange with another of the same number. So, the numbers have to be exactly the same. The example again the 608Z NT isn't the same as a 608Z ABCD or a 608ZZ.

Ok i can do that

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • Claire Smith
      By Claire Smith
      Is there a wiring diagram for a wheelhorse R26 Tecumseh engine 5.5hp - changed points and condenser, engine turns on key but no spark. !! Any ideas?? 😊



    • 70.5TransAmDan
      By 70.5TransAmDan
      Hello Everyone, my name's Dan and I'm a wrenchaholic.
       
      Um, sorry. 
      That's Thursday nights meeting.
       
      First, thank you to all you old farts out there like myself and don't get me wrong. There are many young, Old Farts in this world also.
      I think of anyone that sees beauty deep inside an old tractor, samurai sword, and yes, even a lovely lady could qualify also.
      If you're the type of person that has the patients and other qualities that's needed to bring beauty and life back to something others see as old junk, or past it's prime, you're my kind of person. 
       
      To the point now.
      I ran across a 1980ish Argo 8x8 Amphibious vehical for the right price the other day, FREE, and of course it has the infamous Starter/Generator system. Also, it's had many unqualified druggies, and electrical experts, work on it before me.  I'm retired union electrician and fiber optic engineer so I was once qualified but,. But,. But, what was I talking bout?
      You get my point. 
      So, I was wondering if anyone could possibly point me in the direction of a midg,,,,,,. Wait,. Little Person, preferably a female and  blonde, so I won't have to do so much bending over working on this darn thing and while you're at it, maybe a wiring diagram for a complete starter/generator including a three wire voltage regulator? 
       
      If you have information on either of these, the help would be most appreciated. 
      Really, she doesn't even have to be blonde or little.
       
      That ought to show you just how willing I am to work with others.
       

       
      Thank all of you here for sharing your wisdom so it can be handed down for others to learn. 
       
      70.5TransAmDan 
    • illinibrew
      By illinibrew
      I have been into garden tractors for a few years.  Wanted to learn about small engines and buying an old sear suburban was cheaper than the class at the local community college.  Just got a 1980 C85 (with a johnny bucket on it).  
    • ToroWheelHorseRookie
      By ToroWheelHorseRookie
      Please Help-- I inherited this work horse from my father in-law after being passed down from his father.  I recently brought my wheel horse in for repairs and the service shop said they were unable to find the part; starter/solenoid.  I did not want to give up on this beast as even the repair shop said this is a well made machine and is better than anything built today. I eventually found the part but because the shop left the part uninstalled I was unable to see how the starter was wired.  Yesterday,  I installed the new starter/solenoid but when I connected the battery terminals the tractor wanted to start on its own.  I quickly disconnected the terminals and analyzed the electrical schematic map but I am baffled on the proper wiring.  I only have a positive (red) battery terminal wire, another red wire, black (ground) wire, and a blue wire with a slot connection.  I included pictures of the starter and the electrical schematic map.  Any help would be much appreciated!! I l would like to fix this on my own as this seems to be a simple wiring issue.  I can add pictures of the tractor itself, but at the moment its under a tarp in a shed at night. Thank you in advance, Matt     


      Electrical Guide.pdf
    • 953 nut
      By 953 nut
      I have a few basic electrical system diagrams that are helpful in understanding how the wiring system works. They are not specific to any particular tractor and do not include safety switches. All use the 5 post ignition switches 103-991 for Magneto and 103-990 for Battery Ignition. I failed to include fuses in the Starter Generator drawing, this is an over-site and I would encourage fuses be used as shown in the other two drawings. 
      Hope this is helpful.
      Magneto Ignition system with electric start and solenoid.

      Battery powered ignition system with points, condenser, solenoid and electric start.

      Battery powered ignition with solenoid, points, condenser, Starter Generator and a mechanical voltage regulator.

      We have uncovered a shortcoming in the factory  wiring diagrams for S/G battery ignition systems with a four terminal voltage regulator. The wire from the regulator "Gen" terminal to the S/G  "A" terminal was omitted. This drawing should clear that up.

       
×
×
  • Create New...