Jump to content
tgranthamfd

Straightening deck

Recommended Posts

tgranthamfd

I have a 2005 315-8 Classic GT Wheel Horse. It has a 42" side discharge deck. I clipped a water meter cover, and my outside blade started hitting the middle blade. Figured the outside spindle shaft had gotten bent, the grease zert was no longer centered, in the cover. I went ahead and bought a complete spindle assembly, and changed it out, just to find that it was still not centered, and the blades still hit each other. My desk must have gotten warped where the spindle assembly bolts on the deck. Is there a good way to straighten this out? As stated, it is a 2005 model and has had nothing done to it except for blades and a deck belt, it is/was in real good shape, never spent a night outside. I need suggestions for a good repair, this deck is nowhere ready to be retired. I cleaned it up and couldn't find any thing to suggest it was bent, but it still hits and is not centered in the cover, all is installed correctly and it is tightened down good. P.S. the belt cover is not touching the deck on the outside, by the shoot, when tightened down.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
daveoman1966

your deck looks like this...right?  with covers off...  (no chute on this one).  

You will probably have to remove the outer spindle...the one you clipped... and HAMMER FLAT the four mounting holes in the deck.  

If the deck mount is just even 1/16" out of FLAT, the effect on the blade tip is exponentially   out of alignment and the blade tips will meet.  

With spindle off, lay the shell surface flat on a BUG wood block and hammer the 4 mounting holes area back to where the area is FLAT. again..

 

 

021.JPG

Edited by daveoman1966
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
MalMac

Sounds like to me you sprung the deck. The 42" decks are famous for this. I have had this happen. The way I was shown how to try and bring it back was Toro's method but I am sure there are better ways. 

Flip the deck upside down and try and align the blade tips tip to tip. Determine which blade is going to need adjusted. When you find out which one it is you take  a large long handled pipe wrench, or use a cheater bar on the handle. Take the jaws of the wrench and slip them over the blade thickness wise closest to the spindle as possible. You then pull or push sideways on the handle bringing the blade tips to the same height.   You won't be bending the blade. You will be pulling the deck back into alignment. Now with all that said. I have never been able to keep the deck from  working it's way back to being sprung. 

Toro did have a large plate that they were using underneath the deck that they were selling. It comes from one of their Zero turn machines that use 42" deck. This has been a bad problem with the 42" decks forever. Why they never put the heavy plate across the top like the 48's I'll never know. Probably manufacturing cost like everything else. It's just been my experience that once that deck is sprung it's done for. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jerry77
1 hour ago, MalMac said:

It's just been my experience that once that deck is sprung it's done for

   :text-yeahthat:  never did get mine to remain straight after fixing.... :(

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ohiofarmer

Worth a try. Maybe get it straight and then put  a plate on the deck to hold it there....

 

Edited by ohiofarmer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
tgranthamfd
8 hours ago, daveoman1966 said:

your deck looks like this...right?  with covers off...  (no chute on this one).  

You will probably have to remove the outer spindle...the one you clipped... and HAMMER FLAT the four mounting holes in the deck.  

If the deck mount is just even 1/16" out of FLAT, the effect on the blade tip is exponentially   out of alignment and the blade tips will meet.  

With spindle off, lay the shell surface flat on a BUG wood block and hammer the 4 mounting holes area back to where the area is FLAT. again..

 

 

021.JPG

Yes it has the cut outs where the spindle assembly mounts. I don't think the whole deck is sprung, I think II just have a slight bend in that cut out, over on the shoot side.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

I think I remember someone making/selling reinforcing rings that went on top of the deck that the spindles bolts went through...or is my memory tricking me?

Edited by pfrederi

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
daveoman1966

I have 3 or 4 of those FATORY MADE reinforcement plates....  for details / prices, send me an email OUTSIDE of this forum.

my email is:

daveoman@windstream.net

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
tgranthamfd

Reinforcement plates will only help if the surface is already straight, would that be correct?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

Yes you would have to get it straightened out first but if has been weakened by rust or cracks the rings would help keep it straight

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
tgranthamfd

does the plate bolt all 3 spindle holes kind of together?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
doc724

The correct way to straighten a deck is to put enough deflection into the deck shell to yield the metal so that when the deflection force is removed the shell will not spring back to its original position.  It takes a lot of force (energy) to deflect the metal beyond the yield point.  Whacking with a hammer will result in a local yielding of the metal (under the hammer head), but is not likely to give you the result you seek.  Use a hydraulic ram or threaded rods (with washers and nuts of course) to pull the deck into position.  Threaded rods work really well because you can tweak the amount of deflection and remeasure.  Plus threaded rods are cheap.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
tgranthamfd

Where would a guy bolt all thread to the spindle mounting surface to get the proper deflection, or what could I pull against? I am fairly positive it is not the whole deck, just the spindle mounting surface. Like I said this deck was in pristine condition. I mean I understand the over pulling to get the metal memory into the right resting place, I'm just not seeing the attachment points, in my head? I was thinking about making 2 steel plates, that match the bolt holes, and welding a rod on each plate, then bolting them to the top and bottom of the spindle mount, so I could have some handles to torque on. Don't know if that would work or not??

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
doc724

take the deck completely apart so you only have the shell.  Now there are lots of holes in the deck and most will take a 3/8 inch threaded rod.  Get a good study workbench with a top that will not deflect and drill one or two holes in it to line up with suitable holes in the deck.  Depending on which way the deck is warped (and you will readily be able to see it when the deck is completely dismantled) you will either put the deck on the bench with the open side down or up.  If the open side is up, you will have to support the deck up off the work bench with something so the deck shell can deflect.  Short pieces of a 2x4 or 2x6 work great.  If the open side is down, you may choose to support the deck with stacked 2x6 so only the area in need gets deformed.  You certainly could try the welded plate idea you suggest, but putting torque on it to twist the deck may be difficult.  My experience is that axial force works, is easy and with all the holes to chose from it should not be a problem.  Drilling an additional hole in the spot you need will not be a problem.  i  have done it a couple of time and I just leave the hole there.  if it really bothers you, but a bolt in it afterwards.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
tgranthamfd

doc you should make a video of this process, to show us. I am starting to get it, though, just got to find the time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...