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bizzo15

Magnum 10 fuel issue

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bizzo15

I've been working on my 310-8 and I got it back together the other day after changing out the idler pully clutch spring and drive belt.  Mowed my half acre lawn and the tractor was running great except for a weird issue where it was acting like it was starving for fuel.  I seemed to narrow it down to only happening when I made left turns with the tractor.  It would start to spit and sputter and if I straightened out quick enough the engine would pick back up and continue running.  Other times it would stall completely and I would have to finesse the choke to get it running again but once restarted it would run fine until I started making left turns again.  I ordered a carb kit for it and plan on giving the carb a good cleaning and rebuild but was hoping some of the pros on here had run into similar issues before and could lend some advice on what to look for before I start throwing parts at it.

 

Thanks!

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pfrederi

Check your float.  Make sure there is no gas in it.  also check the level and drop.  Level is 11/64th  drop is 1-1/32

float.JPG

Edited by pfrederi
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bizzo15
2 hours ago, pfrederi said:

Check your float.  Make sure there is no gas in it.  also check the level and drop.  Level is 11/64th  drop is 1-1/32

float.JPG

Pfrederi thanks for the quick reply.  After I posted my question I went into the garage and started removing the carb off the engine.  I took it apart and cleaned it with carb cleaner and then I got back on req square and I was going to search for a manual on adjusting the carb when I saw I had a reply to my post.  Sure enough it looks like the previous owner installed a rebuild kit including a new float and never adjusted the tab as it was perfectly straight.  I adjusted it as close as I could to 11/64th's using my digital caliber and put it all back together.  Fired the tractor up and rode it around the yard for a couple minutes and it didn't spit or sputter once.  I would've ran it longer but my yard is really wet from all the rain.  Anyways I think that's all that was wrong with it so thanks for posting that!

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6bg6ga

I'll have to disagree a bit. The float doesn't have a problem. If in fact the float was taking on gas the float would have lowered which would have taken the needle off the seat which would have made the mixture rich not lean.

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bizzo15
25 minutes ago, 6bg6ga said:

I'll have to disagree a bit. The float doesn't have a problem. If in fact the float was taking on gas the float would have lowered which would have taken the needle off the seat which would have made the mixture rich not lean.

There was no gas in the float it appears the level was never set correctly when the previous owner installed a rebuild kit.

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6bg6ga
Just now, bizzo15 said:

There was no gas in the float it appears the level was never set correctly when the previous owner installed a rebuild kit.

 

That is why I commented. If the float had taken on gas it would have been heavy and started to sink in the float chanber causing a rich condition.  The fact the float level was low resulted in the lean condition. The condition YOU corrected. Good Job!

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bizzo15

Ah ok I see what you're saying now and yeah that makes sense, with gas in the float it wouldn't exactly be able to float!

 

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6bg6ga

:)    Yup

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Ed Kennell

I had the same issue with my 312 sputtering when I hit a bump while mowing.   I found the rubber baffle dislocated in the bowl.  I positioned it correctly and the problem was resolved.

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bizzo15

Hey guys so I had a chance to get this tractor out for some mowing the other day and unfortunately the issue is still present even after adjusting the float bowl.  I tried to do some more testing to see what conditions etc I could get it to stumble and stall under and it seems like when I'm in 3rd gear mowing at a good clip it doesn't stumble but in 1st or 2nd gear it will.  I also noticed it doesn't do it in reverse.  It seems like if I catch it in time and push the clutch in and shift to neutral it picks back up.  I'm leaning towards a faulty fuel pump or possible something to do with the safety wiring for the transmission.  What are your guys thoughts.  Anywhere else I should look?

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953 nut
33 minutes ago, bizzo15 said:

possible something to do with the safety wirin

Being a Magnum if any of the seat or PTO black wires is rubbing or pinched or could be making momentary contact with ground and then clearing you could have the described symptoms.

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bizzo15
2 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Being a Magnum if any of the seat or PTO black wires is rubbing or pinched or could be making momentary contact with ground and then clearing you could have the described symptoms.

Looks like I need to pull the wiring diagram for my model and do some chasing :tools-wrench:

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6bg6ga

Simply bypass the switches and see if it runs correctly. If it does check each switch until you find the problem. If it still runs with a problem its not a safety switch.

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bizzo15
1 minute ago, 6bg6ga said:

Simply bypass the switches and see if it runs correctly. If it does check each switch until you find the problem. If it still runs with a problem its not a safety switch.

Do you know how I go about bypassing them @6bg6ga?

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953 nut

There should be a blue wire going to the magneto that runs from the ignition switch to the engine. This is the wire that grounds out the magneto to stop the engine. If you cut that wire the engine will run independent of all safety switches. You would want to have that wire where you can ground it out to stop the engine in the event of an emergency. This is not a permanent solution, just for testing, you want to use all safety switches, they are there for your protection.

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bizzo15
5 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

There should be a blue wire going to the magneto that runs from the ignition switch to the engine. This is the wire that grounds out the magneto to stop the engine. If you cut that wire the engine will run independent of all safety switches. You would want to have that wire where you can ground it out to stop the engine in the event of an emergency. This is not a permanent solution, just for testing, you want to use all safety switches, they are there for your protection.

Ok perfect, i'm just looking to bypass the safety switches to troubleshoot this issue, definitely don't want them bypassed permanently.

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doc724

My money is on the seat safety switch.  Lift up the seat, separate the electrical connection and stick a paper clip into the two terminals on the wiring harness.  If your problem goes away, you have found the source.

 

My 520xi seat switch is sometimes temper-mental.  It can run fine and I shut it off.  Get back on the machine again and it will not start.  After the cursing stops, I usually remember to get off the machine, lift the seat and jiggle the switch a bit.  Voila-no more problem!

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bizzo15
47 minutes ago, doc724 said:

My money is on the seat safety switch.  Lift up the seat, separate the electrical connection and stick a paper clip into the two terminals on the wiring harness.  If your problem goes away, you have found the source.

 

My 520xi seat switch is sometimes temper-mental.  It can run fine and I shut it off.  Get back on the machine again and it will not start.  After the cursing stops, I usually remember to get off the machine, lift the seat and jiggle the switch a bit.  Voila-no more problem!

I disconnected the seat safety switch wire and the tractor still ran so I don't know if that means there's an issue or not.  I forgot to reconnect it after I had the seat pan off changing the drive belt and cleaning the transmission.

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Duramax7man7

What year is the 310?
 

 

Edited by Mastiffman

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bizzo15

1990 according to model # on seat pan

 

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Duramax7man7

Model Number: 31-10K801 ?

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Duramax7man7

I know that on my 1994 314h, 1995 312-8s and 1991 520h I have to be on the seat to start them all. But not on my 1990 520h.  

 

1989-1991_WH_310-8_wiring_diagram.jpg

 

1989-1991_WH_310-8_wiring_diagram-2.jpg

 

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BOB ELLISON

I know this may sound silly but  the left turn stalling thing has to be the key. If it runs good on a right turn and stright ,I would think it has to do with something that is binding.i would check the bolts that hold the trans to frame. If they are loose it could bind the belt going to the engine on a left turn . I'm just grabbing straws like every one else

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bizzo15
11 hours ago, Mastiffman said:

Model Number: 31-10K801 ?

Yes sir.

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