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Similar Content
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By Joe Warren
Mower Spindle Components
mostly new old stock
Prices shown do not include the cost to ship.
Message me with your needs and any questions.
Thank you.
Joe
PART NUMBER(S)
DESCRIPTION
QTY. AVAILABLE
PRICE EACH
103711
NOS Spindle shaft assembly
1
39
103711 (used)
Used spindle shaft assembly
1
29
101686 or 5875
NOS Spindle shaft sub-assembly
1
49
104890
NOS Spindle shaft
1
49
104982
NOS Spindle shaft
1
44
107998 or 107446
NOS Spindle shaft
2
89
109912
NOS Spindle shaft
1
59
112673 or 109965
NOS Spindle shaft
1
59
108849
NOS Spindle shaft
1
89
102780 or 104373
NOS Spindle cups 1.0” tall
2
39
??????
NOS Spindle cups 0.9” tall
2
39
102784 or 104374
NOS Spindle cups 0.8” tall
1
39
100289
NOS Needle bearing, MFD USA Torrington
2
19
101411
NOS Ball bearing, sealed both sides, MFD China
2
29
101480 or 1515 or 5493
NOS Ball bearing, sealed both sides, MFD China
6
9
106084
NOS Ball bearing, sealed one side, MFD Japan
11
9
106085
NOS Ball bearing, open, not sealed, MFD Taiwan
16
9
106070
NOS Seal spacer
10
9
100674
NOS Spacer-pulley
1
13
107445
NOS Spacer-bearing
1
9
106069
NOS Spacer
1
9
110234
NOS Lock bolt-pulley
4
2
110242 or 908033
NOS Lock bolt-blade
11
2
915090 or 32146-20
NOS Lock nut-pulley
11
2
936028 or 32120-42 or 52-6640
NOS Snap ring
7
2
8389
spindle housing
1
39
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By davem1111
I thought I'd circle back and see if I can fix a 42" deck (05-42MS05) that came off of one of my previous tractor purchases. I got the blades off and the bottoms of the spindles look good, and it needs some metal welded on where the wheel height adustment bracket bolts on. No big deal.
The problem I'm having now on this deck is that I can't get this one spindle off. I haven't gotten the others off either, but they seem to be fine. This pulley is flopping around and obviously needs help. I've tried heating it with a torch after spraying it with penetrating spray numerous times, and it won't budge. At this point, I'm thinking that I'll just need to grind it off, right through the spindle shaft, unless I can successfully cut through the thick ring without damaging the spindle shaft. If I have to grind through the pulley, it probably doesn't matter because I think it's shot already. Anyone have any other ideas?
One question: Is that thick ring supposed to be part of the pulley? This one is detached and the pulley spins freely (and sloppily). Assuming I'll need to buy a new pulley, but was hoping not to have to buy another spindle shaft also. I did take the grease zirk off and have hammered on the top some, but only with a block of brass in between. It could already be damaged there.
The picture doesn't help much, but here it is:
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By Joe Warren
one new old stock spindle housing
part number 106063
$79 includes shipping within US lower 48.
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By Rob R
Hi guys need you help have a 42" side Discharge Deck (Triple Blade) mower deck, mounted on a C-81, that is in bad need of an outside Spindle (Mandrel) the pulley on top is # 5877. The bottom bearing is toast. so I poise the following questions. Note pics attached.
1. Does any on have one of these for less then a Kings ransome?
2. Is it possible to disassemble and install an new bearing from like NAPA?
3. All three spindles have NO Zerk grease fittings can I drill and add some...... if yes where on the housing is the best place to do this.
Thanks feel free to add any other options......
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By jebbear
Getting ready to start rebuilding (hopefully upgrading) my RM-366 mower deck for my 856 Tractor (separate thread as "My 856 Project" under the restorations category). Thought I would post this here looking for some potential ideas from you guys that may have rebuilt, restored, upgraded, modified this particular deck or something very similar. Near as I can tell, the RM-366 deck and the RM-367 are almost identical other than year of mfg. and there may be some others that are very similar.
My question is, has anyone with a similar deck ever made any upgrades/modifications to one of these decks to improve on the problematic "wear areas" at the bearing points of the drag link, bracket hanger, pivot tube, and quick hitch assembly as shown in the photos below? Just doesn't seem like a very good original design to suspend the entire weight of this deck along with being subjected to other external forces on the thin edges of only about 1/8" on the drag link and hanger bearing directly on the pivot tube. Would like to improve on this if its possible and thought maybe some of you veterans may have some ideas or something that you may have tried that works (or didn't work for that matter) to mitigate this wear. I realize these decks are designed to be "floating" decks, but don't really like it when the deck starts floating laterally when wear takes over.
Now for the photos:
These are the areas that I would like to address...
This is a close-up of the original design in the pivot tube area (minus the snap rings and washer). If any of you have followed my thread on the tractor itself, i have been adding an abundance of bronze bearings in wear and pivot points on the tractor and would like to modify this in some way similar. The problem is with what I call the "staggered mount" between the drag link and the hanger whereas the drag link is not mounted between the side plates of the hanger but rather alternate inside to outside (see photo). This makes it a little difficult to directly mount a flange bearing in one of the surfaces, especially with the snap rings on the pivot tube.
This is the original pivot tube showing the wear at these hanger locations as well as the snap ring grooves...
Years ago I made a modification to this same area by turning a "modified" pivot tube and utilizing a combination of bronze bearings whereas the pivot tube was bolted stationary to the side of the hanger bracket and all rotation was limited to the bearing points of the drag link rather than the hanger. This actually worked "relatively" well but still had some issues after years of service. I may pursue something similar this time around, and hopefully someone a lot smarter than me might have a better solution.
As for the wear on the quick hitch assembly shaft where it mounts to the tractor brackets, I am probably just going to fabricate a new one and maybe turn it to accept a couple of bronze bearings at least in the areas marked "severe" wear points.
I hope that I'm not trying to reinvent the wheel here, just attempting to make something that has been a problem spot in the past a little bit better. Any ideas or suggestions that you may have tried (or thought about trying) would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
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