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HorseFixer

ARK 500 LOADER REBUILD ON A 522XI

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HorseFixer

Have made a few posts alluding to rebuilding an ARK 500 Loader, and installing it on a 520H that has now changed with Obtaining a 522XI. Thanks to a few members here for leading me down the path of Righteousness Sake! ;)  The power steering was the BIG SELLING POINT. Lately I have been procuring the parts necessary for the project and everything hasn't went smoothly. The rear tires for example not matching the width specifications. The ARK 500 Series Loader I have came off of a GT14. This means that I will have to fabricate a undercarriage and adapt it to this Tractor. The loader will be disassembled, have all Welds gone over and Re-Welded, All Cylinders Rebuilt, Control Valve Rebuilt, All hoses replaced. Repainted Black with New Decals. All Rims Powdercoated White, New Tri ribbed front tires, New Rear Aggs, Rear Weight Box. Rear Wheel Weights, Tonight I took pictures of loader and labeled the hoses on pictures. As I take the hoses off I will number them and take them to my Hydraulic Hose doode to have him make them. Here are some Pics Of Tractor Loader and Hose Labeling Ill have more questions I need answered below.  :handgestures-thumbupright:  ~Duke

 

20170326_174247.thumb.jpg.60cd6728f5e872c3d6bb00e566406e0d.jpgDSCN9788.thumb.jpg.5729e9aad1b8befc9932b67d57336d5b.jpg1.thumb.jpg.22d0b376d9ef2ef57e9a67fd71ad2bc5.jpg2.thumb.jpg.365fc752ab057f9783f9f2ae8fed57bc.jpg3.thumb.jpg.bcf24b4c0d969328affa5e7ceb07c3c6.jpg4.thumb.jpg.30cf86d321bdb7d19950da75fafbf186.jpg

 

 

I'm reading tonight I see that DON C is rebuilding his 550 Loader does anyone have Info on the O-RINGS and seals needed for the ARK 500?  I Also need some good information on the Hydraulic Pump Mounting on the 522XI. Maybe a Kwick Way Manual Ect, may help me? Also maybe find a Kwick way Hyd Pump and mounting bracket may help, what do you all think about that. Any Thoughts on that part? Thanks ~Duke   ;)

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Dennys502

I have 523dxi with a Kwik Way loader. If you need any info just let me know - The pump mounts in a mule drive and is driven off the pto.I can get you dimensions if you want to build your own.
 

Edited by Dennys502
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HorseFixer
27 minutes ago, Dennys502 said:

I have 523dxi with a Kwik Way loader. If you need any info just let me know - The pump mounts in a mule drive and is driven off the pto.I can get you dimensions if you want to build your own.
 

 

Yes please Denny anything you can get me would be much appreciated!  :handgestures-thumbupright:

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shallowwatersailor

Duke, congrats on joining the 5xi Club!  For the front tires, take a look at the Vredestein V-61 in the 18x8.50-8 6-ply size. If it is a dedicated loader, the size difference front/rear won't be a factor compared to a mower.

 

 

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bmsgaffer

I am subscribing. The two lings I sent you should have info on the pump mount build... That's all the help I have, but I want to follow along!

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HorseFixer
5 hours ago, shallowwatersailor said:

Duke, congrats on joining the 5xi Club!  For the front tires, take a look at the Vredestein V-61 in the 18x8.50-8 6-ply size. If it is a dedicated loader, the size difference front/rear won't be a factor compared to a mower.

 

 

Thanks All!  :handgestures-thumbupright:   John I already purchased a set of Those Firestone Tri Ribs from Miller Tire really for the 520H and the loader but figured would use them on here any reason I shouldn't? Yes this is dedicated loader.

 

Anyways I Stayed up late last night Browsing around (really bobbing my head sleeping) and just got up. Going out in garage turning heat on, then running a couple errands. Will return and start tearing loader apart  See's ya later ~Duke 

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HorseFixer

Today I removed all of the Hydraulic Hoses flushed them out w/ brake cleaner and them wiped them down with lacquer cleaner. I then tagged and numbered them, and they will be taken to my Industrial Supply Company Friend tomorrow who will make them for me. I will have 13 made. The two large pump hoses I am holding off on because I am unsure on pump location yet. I also think I will install a Hydraulic filter inline to keep the system clean. About 4 years ago knowing this project would come someday  I came across an old weight machine that the county was scrapping out. I asked my boss for the weights and he gave them to me. These weights weigh 20 libs each and I have 22 of them = 440 lbs. The nice thing about these is that they lock together by the cast Iron castings. They also have nice large holes in them that can keep them locked together with large Rods and or bolts. :handgestures-thumbupright: 

 

DUKE.thumb.jpg.3b7d78e15ca7d2a0425c2f5fab4bc89a.jpgDSCN9848.thumb.jpg.6bd1625eb7729237f2565281d1e9324f.jpgDSCN9850.thumb.jpg.fe89d9b33268d1350d898baccf10a38d.jpgDSCN9851.thumb.jpg.b41c812b7077fd33cfa2db9ba96b56be.jpgDSCN9852.thumb.jpg.26aa1a404a0a6553ba1217b0590703aa.jpgDSCN9853.thumb.jpg.778b51fb3ec37da3870cdb1fd05b4924.jpgDSCN9858.thumb.jpg.3a249ec52f2065a285dcfde2bf197aad.jpgDSCN9857.thumb.jpg.48573442e3b098f19b4961783d62c4da.jpg

 

Got an E-Mail from Terry today we have been working on Ideas. I will be painting the Loader Black so the are what the Decals will look like.  ;)

 

58ddc5a91299a_ark500WITHYELLOWCAUTIONS.png.69a9775f5c7933ff30f5cbabc1e392bd.png

Edited by HorseFixer
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AMC RULES

Such a nice calendar.   :whistle:

 

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rmaynard

I'm going to be following this thread with interest as I too am going to be rebuilding/refurbishing my ARK-500 which is going on my 416-H. My biggest challenge is to rework the undercarriage to have it attach to the mid-mount tach-a-matic, and eliminate the bracket on the front. With me not being a fabricator or welder, it may be a slow project. 

 

Keep posting lots of pictures Bob. :thanks:

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HorseFixer

Does anyone know the QTY and  Size of "O" Rings in the Cylinders? I think Bob Maynard mentioned something about size in a post swhile back but said he would have to ck.  Also any info on rebuild kits for the Hydraulic Control Valve would help also. I might as well leave no stone un-turned in this want to make it last awhile once done.  :handgestures-thumbupright: Thanks ~Duke  ;)

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Texas Todd

I just replaced the tilt cylinder O-rings in my Ark 550. Each cylinder had 3 O-rings.

2 - 1-1/2" ×1-3/4" × 1/8"

1 - Metric 221. This goes between the rod and the base. I'm sure thats not the original size but it seems to work fine. 

Got the O-rings at the hardware store. 

Farm/Ranch store should have em as well. 

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rmaynard

My ARK-500 had 3 each 1-1/2" ID x 1-3/4" OD x 1/8", and 1 each 1" ID x 1-1/4" OD x 1/8" O-ring for each cylinder. I had the larger rings as Denny Clarke included them with the loader. The 1" ones I purchased from NAPA.

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HorseFixer

 

1 hour ago, Texas Todd said:

I just replaced the tilt cylinder O-rings in my Ark 550. Each cylinder had 3 O-rings.

2 - 1-1/2" ×1-3/4" × 1/8"

1 - Metric 221. This goes between the rod and the base. I'm sure thats not the original size but it seems to work fine. 

Got the O-rings at the hardware store. 

Farm/Ranch store should have em as well. 

 

12 minutes ago, rmaynard said:

My ARK-500 had 3 each 1-1/2" ID x 1-3/4" OD x 1/8", and 1 each 1" ID x 1-1/4" OD x 1/8" O-ring for each cylinder. I had the larger rings as Denny Clarke included them with the loader. The 1" ones I purchased from NAPA.

 

Thanks Tex Todd and Robert M!  :handgestures-thumbupright:  Well all I got to say is MAYDAY MAYDAY ALL HANDS ONDECK!   :)   I went out in the shop this morning, and drained the oil out of a cylinder, wiped it down, then examined how to take it apart. There are not any screw on caps on either ends. There is a Fixed end of the Cylinder and a movable end with the Cylinder piston that goes in and out. On both ends there are snap rings. So on the Cylinder end I removed the snap ring but in pulling the cylinder out (the cap that was behind the snap ring) wont budge and I cant pull the innards out. So I go to the other end and that snap ring is a doosey to remove as that end has alot more rust.  :no:Any thoughts?

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Edited by HorseFixer
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rmaynard

Because my o-rings on the piston were pretty worn, it would move in and out fairly easily. I secured the rod to my work bench and holding the cylinder in my hands, I rammed it down several times until the end cap came out. Then I disconnected the piston from the bench and reinserted it back into the cylinder, placed an oak block on the floor and used it as a ram to push the rear end cap out. If that's not clear to you, give me a call and I will explain over the phone. Number is in your messages.

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Dennys502

Use a porta power and put some hydraulic pressure on the back end - might be messy but it will come out.

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Texas Todd

I didnt take the fixed end off, just the piston end. 

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rmaynard
11 minutes ago, Texas Todd said:

I didnt take the fixed end off, just the piston end. 

Not that there is anything wrong with that, but knowing my luck, if I did everything but the fixed end, that is where I would develope my leak.

 

So as the old saying goes, "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure".  

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Texas Todd

What about if it ain't broke don't fix it? :ychain:

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HorseFixer

Okay dropped off my Hoses to get duplicated and my Hydraulic Doode he looked at a couple and said they were Low Pressure Hoses and then showed me a Funky end on one that looks like it had been replaced. He then checked the hoses with a MAGGOT :D  to see if there was any steel braid in the hoses and about 1/2 had steel braid and the others didn't I don't know what that's all about :think: I asked him what is low pressure and he said 300psi and I told him I want them all higher pressure so they all will be steel braided hose with the the right fittings. I the asked him about "O" Rings and he had what I needed. I went by Auto Zone to get some Supplys PB BLASTER Brake Cleaner and stuff and came home. Got on the Puker and read  responses and Texas Todd mentioned in a PM to me that the 90 deg fitting needs to come out so I removed that. It still was a POOTA but I was able to remove the Cylinder End. Tex I'm with Bob on the luck thing I'm not going to go through all this with a 46 year old loader and then have the chance that the other end leaks.  :-o  Well the other end was a real S.O.B. with all Caps and then some!!!!  I could not get the SNAP RING out, I tried heating it, B Blaster, Vibration, Prick punch to rotate and turn it NOPE!!!!! So I spread it closed used a doo diver pryed it Broke its back REEL GOOD that'll teach that SNAP RING to mess with me!  :rolleyes:  Then trying to get the Ole Rusty end out was IMPOSSIBLE!  So I Intruduced MR. CYLINDER to MR. 20 TON HYDRAULIC PRESS!  And I gave it an ATTITUDE ADJUSTMENT. I wrapped a piece of HEX SHAFT I had in Duct Tape so it would not scratch the BORE and lowered my press and showed MR. CYLINDER WHO WAS BOSS. MR. 20 TON WON THAT WAR!  :greetings-clappingyellow:  Just so Future Horseman know there are 4 "O" Rings needed to rebuild these CYLINDERS 2 Types of the Following. QTY (3)  1/8" Thick X 1 1/2" ID X 1 3/4" OD and QTY (1) 1/8" Thick X 1" ID X 1 1/4" OD  You can see the (3) Larger "O" RINGS in The 6th Picture down.See the Piston that slides on the shaft? The Smaller "O" Ring goes in there and seals against the shaft and the piston. Thanks for every ones help! :handgestures-thumbupright:  ~Duke

 

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Dennys502

Actually your return line to the tank and the suction line for the pump are low pressure hoses.

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HorseFixer
3 minutes ago, Dennys502 said:

Actually your return line to the tank and the suction line for the pump are low pressure hoses.

 

23 hours ago, HorseFixer said:

Today I removed all of the Hydraulic Hoses flushed them out w/ brake cleaner and them wiped them down with lacquer cleaner. I then tagged and numbered them, and they will be taken to my Industrial Supply Company Friend tomorrow who will make them for me. I will have 13 made. The two large pump hoses I am holding off on because I am unsure on pump location yet. I also think I will install a Hydraulic filter inline to keep the system clean. About 4 years ago knowing this project would come someday  I came across an old weight machine that the county was scrapping out. I asked my boss for the weights and he gave them to me. These weights weigh 20 libs each and I have 22 of them = 440 lbs. The nice thing about these is that they lock together by the cast Iron castings. They also have nice large holes in them that can keep them locked together with large Rods and or bolts. :handgestures-thumbupright: 

 

10-4 Denny This from Post # 7 I didnt take him the BIG HOSES cause the pump will be in a different location So I will determine that later.  :handgestures-thumbupright:

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Dennys502
20 hours ago, HorseFixer said:

 

 

10-4 Denny This from Post # 7 I didnt take him the BIG HOSES cause the pump will be in a different location So I will determine that later.  :handgestures-thumbupright:

 

 

 

Ah yes. I responded to the last post where you dropped off the hoses.

 

Okay dropped off my Hoses to get duplicated and my Hydraulic Doode he looked at a couple and said they were Low Pressure Hoses and then showed me a Funky end on one that looks like it had been replaced. He then checked the hoses with a MAGGOT :D  to see if there was any steel braid in the hoses and about 1/2 had steel braid and the others didn't I don't know what that's all about :think: I asked him what is low pressure and he said 300psi and I told him I want them all higher pressure so they all will be steel braided hose with the the right fittings. I the asked him about "O" Rings and he had what I needed. I went by Auto Zone to get some Supplys PB BLASTER Brake Cleaner and stuff and came home. Got on the Puker and read  responses and Texas Todd mentioned in a PM to me that the 90 deg fitting needs to come out so I removed that. It still was a POOTA but I was able to remove the Cylinder End. Tex I'm with Bob on the luck thing I'm not going to go through all this with a 46 year old loader and then have the chance that the other end leaks.  :-o  Well the other end was a real S.O.B. with all Caps and then some!!!!  I could not get the SNAP RING out, I tried heating it, B Blaster, Vibration, Prick punch to rotate and turn it NOPE!!!!! So I spread it closed used a doo diver pryed it Broke its back REEL GOOD that'll teach that SNAP RING to mess with me!  :rolleyes:  Then trying to get the Ole Rusty end out was IMPOSSIBLE!  So I Intruduced MR. CYLINDER to MR. 20 TON HYDRAULIC PRESS!  And I gave it an ATTITUDE ADJUSTMENT. I wrapped a piece of HEX SHAFT I had in Duct Tape so it would not scratch the BORE and lowered my press and showed MR. CYLINDER WHO WAS BOSS. MR. 20 TON WON THAT WAR!  :greetings-clappingyellow:  Just so Future Horseman know there are 4 "O" Rings needed to rebuild these CYLINDERS 2 Types of the Following. QTY (3)  1/8" Thick X 1 1/2" ID X 1 3/4" OD and QTY (1) 1/8" Thick X 1" ID X 1 1/4" OD  You can see the (3) Larger "O" RINGS in The 6th Picture down.See the Piston that slides on the shaft? The Smaller "O" Ring goes in there and seals against the shaft and the piston. Thanks for every ones help! :handgestures-thumbupright:  ~Duke

Edited by Dennys502
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HorseFixer

 Member Snowmobileaddict Andy made a comment on another post how the ARK 500 Series Loader is Narrower Than The Quickway loader and he is absolutely correct, I refrenced his drawing and took measurements of mine and this was my reply to him.

 

Andy, I am glad that you brought that to my attention because to be honest with you that hadn't crossed my mind. The guy who hacked up his XI should indeed be punished for Horse Cruelty :deadhorse: To solve the problem you have mentioned I will widen the stance of the uprights by 5" because according to the nice undercarriage drawing you made I see that they are approx 34". Mine measure at present 30"  so I will make them 35" I will do this by widening where they attach to the bucket, and In do so I will have to lengthen the cross member between the arms behind the bucket. Thanks again for bringing this to my attention and again I would like to compliment you on the OUTSTANDING JOB you did on your loader! :handgestures-thumbupright:   ~Duke

 

SUBFRAME.thumb.jpg.5a4562f6e1e14c80e73af7731bde6d4c.jpg

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HorseFixer

Well since talking to Snowmpbileaddict Andy on the forums here finding out that this loader will need to be widened to fit the 5XI Tractor. This afternoon I went to work and finished getting the Loader taken apart. After that was completed, I dove right in and cut out the crossmember behind the bucket in order to widen the stance of the loader. I will find another piece of steel 5" wider when I get ready to weld. And Speaking of welding someone along the way has really done a couple numbers on this baby over the years. And the FACTORY WELDS look like ELMER FUDD has been here!  :scared-eek:  The Welds are COLD WELDS and don't lay down and are all humped up and look like Chicken CHIT! :angry-tappingfoot: So I have decided to go over all the welds completely, I just can stand them looking like this. Tomorrow I will grind the Tower arms  down where the old supports were and If I have time may get into removing the Bucket Brackets in order to move them out 2 1/2" on each side to match the new width needed. Here are some pics. 

 

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Edited by HorseFixer
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Snowmobileaddict

Duke,

 

Below are the dimensions you had asked about.  Scroll through to see the close-ups of the measuring tape.

Duke,

 

Below are the dimensions you had asked about.  Scroll through to see the close-ups of the measuring tape.

 

 

 

vWicXApgZwzZAK84JBiPcrlj6bld-yQm89xLk6Dn

 

FMoQ9c-cvbFCep4IcmAuDBppYuOon3QK1fxTDufc

 

iy-x4OVzbyaB7THwZQwSUNnFxu4bZBK6tLXGv0ZW

 

IsO3C_y-6zxXS3PjocLi7JFnM5BJ3exbv6ayvOSp

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Snowmobileaddict
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