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js5020

electric pto clutch

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953 nut
1 hour ago, evanloock said:

Their transmissions had nothing to do with the PTO

Garry beat me to it, I should have included this in my suggestion.

5 minutes ago, daveoman1966 said:

This is from a C-120...same as for the C-160

Either one will get the job done, the older one is just easier to mount.

 

1 hour ago, evanloock said:

953, 1054 & 1054-A which used a set screw to hold the friction plate onto the engine output shaft

This could be done too.

1 hour ago, gwest_ca said:

The pto clutch plate is bolted to the transmission drive pulley. The drive pulley is a different diameter for gear and hydro transmissions but are they all drilled to accept the pto clutch plate?

 

Garry

Thanks Garry, I should have mentioned the reason for hydro over standard.

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js5020

Thanks for all the input guys!!  I will begin my search for a manual setup.  A question on models I can use,,, would a later 300 or 400 series work?  I have seen several 300 series with mower decks dirt cheap usually with bad 700 eatons.

 

Update on the original electric clutch,, I have repaired it!  With the snow battle well in hand today I ran into town and got some 5/8-11 all thread and 2 nuts, came off pretty easy, used the technique listed in the pervious post to separate the coil.  The coil winding had separated from the filler used to encapsulate/insulate the coil winding in the housing and it looked like the one wire was broken off at the mini crimp connector used to fasten the external wire to the actual coil winding.  Yes I had the coil assembly out of the housing, figured it already doesn't work so I can't make it worse!   I unwound a bit of the coil winding to give plenty to work with (one wind of the coil from each end).  Took the housing and enlarged the two holes for the wires to make it easier to work with and easier to get insulating material in there.  Wrapped several winds of electric tape around the same places they originally used a paper insulator band and did a fancy wrap to insulate the wire that needs to go across the coil.  I used enough tape to make the coil asm snug in the housing and had to persuade it a bit to go in.  A quick test showed it worked again so I mounted the whole thing back on the crankshaft.  I added enough wire to the leads of the coil so it could be wrapped around to provide a stress relief and zip tied it to the alignment bracket.  I blew snow for a few hours and zero issues!

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953 nut

The 300 and 400 models use a clutch similar to the one @daveoman1966 suggested except the arm that engages the PTO may not be as easy to mount.

c-120 PTO.jpg

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evanloock

Anything can be made to work theoretically with modifications, but a "drop in" replacement would be a PTO from a 1973 "no name" tractor through the C-xx0 series.  The mechanism changed with the C-xx1 series.

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AndyZ

Bumping into this thread because it looks similar to my problem. Hope that's OK, I try not to start new threads if existing ones are appropriate.

The PO of my '71 Raider 10 told me the PTO bracket broke at some point and she just snipped the wires and let it pinwheel - see the photos for the sad story. The wires are snipped right at the surface of the coil housing, and the bracket is, well... broken. The good news is after I removed the retaining bolt, the PTO slid right off, no forceful extraction required. It looks like someone had it off and reassembled it with anti-seize. The key and keyway looks good.

I was hoping there was a way to get to the coil wiring from the inside to renew the wires, but it looks solidly potted. Do you know of any way to fix those wires? Or is the only way to keep it as an electric PTO to find another coil assembly somewhere? There was just one that sold on eBay this week but it was up and sold for a spendy $150.

I'm not adverse to converting to a manual PTO. I've read most of the PTO threads here and am in agreement that a manual PTO can be engaged more smoothly than an electric. As well I don't have a mowing deck or any accessories requiring a PTO just yet, so I would rather not go a spendy route. The PO gave me a snowblower attachment but I already have a '65 Ariens Sno-Thro that I love. It looks like a manual conversion could be cheaper than sourcing a electric coil assembly.

What would you do?  Thanks!

- Andy

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daveoman1966

As my buddy Carl from 'Slingblade" would say./...  "I'm studyin' on it...."  

 

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daveoman1966

Check the FIELD for continuity.  If that test fails, the field is grounded and MAY be beyond repair. 

If the FIELD has continuity, I'll suggest MAYBE a way to repair the cut-off bracket...MAYBE..

You can contact me via direct email to:

daveoman@windstream.net

 

EPTO FIX.docx

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AndyZ

Thank you for a clear troubleshooting doc, Dave. I have 3.1 ohms wire-to-wire and open circuit from either wire to base. So I think the coil is good. If only the PO had left some wire hanging out to work with. She had installed some kind of funky metal plate over the PTO assembly and I think that was pinwheeling independently and cut/ground the surface around the plate and the wire ends. I'll send you a message off-line to see if you have suggestions. Thanks again to you and to the Red Square community for such a friendly and information-rich site!

Andy

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AndyZ

Thanks for all the help on my PTO coil issues, folks. I was lucky enough to score a used electric PTO in working condition on eBay this week. It bench tested fine. The previous owner has a bolt and spacer setup where the Clevis Pin was. I would like to put a Clevis Pin back in so it is easy to get to the belts (and closer to stock). Can anyone tell me the length and diameter of the Clevis Pin that should be there? I'm hoping to find something close at the hardware store.

Cheers,

- Andy

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AndyZ

Hi folks,

Answering my own question - I found the big orange store had a Universal Clevis Pin, 5/16"Dia x 3/4"L, that seems to be the right fit. It has just a scooch clearance so it's not sticking out to catch on anything. It does not bind in any way when the PTO is activated or relaxed. I had a Reese retaining pin that fit perfectly. Thanks.

- Andy

 

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Edited by AndyZ

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