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IBleedRed

Kohler 25hp Command Pro swap into 520-H

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Cable

Excellent write up.  Appreciate your effort to share this change.

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slammer302

It looks great to me. Thanks for the wiring info. I've wanted to do a similar swap in the future.

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AMC RULES

Yeah...should be a nice upgrade there.   :text-bravo:

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IBleedRed

Yup, just waiting for the next big snow storm to give it a real test. 

 

Has as anyone heard of a break in procedure for these engines? Google didn't seem to know.

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cschannuth
3 hours ago, IBleedRed said:

Yup, just waiting for the next big snow storm to give it a real test. 

 

Has as anyone heard of a break in procedure for these engines? Google didn't seem to know.

 

Whenever you run the engine make sure it is warmed up for a few minutes before running at full throttle and idled down for a couple minutes before turning it off. Both of those procedures will make that new engine last for thousands of trouble free hours. I would change the oil after the first 5 hours (some would say after 10) and then again after 25 hours. After that you should be good to go with normal maintenance. 

Edited by cschannuth
Clarity
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roadapples

Guess that will make it a "525-H"   :woohoo:

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WildHorses

What's the belt guard looking thing in the top final image? Is that a custom piece?

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dclarke

Lots of good information here, thanks for sharing. 

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IBleedRed
8 hours ago, danielbaute said:

What's the belt guard looking thing in the top final image? Is that a custom piece?

Not really sure what your referring to, but that bit on top of the muffler is just a heat shield. If I wanted to get away with out cutting the hood I could have cut that off instead.

 

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Tuneup

Wow! Great job and with V-Twin torque, those rear tires and weight - she's an incredible puller. As for break-in, we all have our methods. It's my opinion that an air cooled engine has cooling capacity based upon full load. I would get the oil (basic dino oil) warm off idle and then run a good load like a deck for up to 30 minutes to stress the rings. After that, remove the load and run full throttle for max cooling for a minute then idle for 10 seconds to clear the muffler of un-burnt fuel if needed before killing it. My Kohler K301 rebuild had minor smoking from blow-by at the start but she was running clean after this break-in. So, there's some opinion on a Sunday for ya :)

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DougC

Great job! Enjoyed your thread.  :handgestures-thumbupright:

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IBleedRed

Thanks for all the compliments. I thought if nothing else I could save someone a bit of time on their swap.

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EricMassey

Awesome swap! I'm wondering what size the front tires are and are they the v61's? If so I've been wanting a set for my 520-h but can't decide on the size. Thanks!

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IBleedRed

V61 16x6.5-8's on the front, easily the best purchase for the tractor I've made so far. The tires plus the gear reduction makes it like power steering at half the cost. Even with the loader steering was a breeze. 

 

 

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bmsgaffer

I just finished a swap into a 522xi with the fuel injected version of that exact same engine. I only have some minor exhaust routing modifications remaining. Awesome engines and it looks awesome stuffed under that hood. 

 

I had thought that Kohler twins were not rated for the PTO side-load and that's why many places were using the Briggs Vanguard for replacement. Any thoughts on that? 

 

Did I read you right that you were planning a black-hood swap? I had a plan like that for a while and never found time (then found and XI) so I sold the parts. That would be a sweet looking black hood, and I think they give just a bit more clearance for the muffler than the 520 hoods.

 

Have you tried fitting the chrome muffler shield from the 520? I think that would be the icing on the cake for that swap. 

 

:handgestures-thumbupright: :handgestures-thumbupright:

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IBleedRed

I know there's no bearings on the pto side of the engine, so that is a problem. It's a risk I'm willing to take for the circumstances. I'll keep updates coming if I see any premature wear.

 

I'm not sure because I haven't tried it yet, but I think I would have to cut the hood more to accommodate the heat shield. 

 

Here's the black hood swap:

 

 

 

 

IMG_1708.JPG

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bmsgaffer

On some of the briggs models wheel horse produced, they put a plate behind tne PTO with a thrust bearing on it to take the side pressure. I have never seen it in person, only read about it. This may be an option worth pursuing to prolong the life of that super nice engine... just a thought.

 

It may have only cost you 400 now but to replace it would be over 1000!

 

Oh i thoughtthe black hood was going on this kohler twin tractor, i misread.

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Northport

My 416-8 needs a rebuild or repower.  I found a Kohler Command Pro 23hp model CH730 for $400.  Your swap documentation is very helpful, and it looks like this could work.  My biggest concern is the PTO.  The output shaft is 1 7/16, did you have to modify your PTO or crank, or did yours come with 1 1/8?  Any assistance is appreciated.

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IBleedRed

I got lucky, mine matched the Onan. Not sure how to help in your situation, but I imagine someone has done a right up on it. Best of luck with your swap.

 

 

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19richie66
2 hours ago, Northport said:

My 416-8 needs a rebuild or repower.  I found a Kohler Command Pro 23hp model CH730 for $400.  Your swap documentation is very helpful, and it looks like this could work.  My biggest concern is the PTO.  The output shaft is 1 7/16, did you have to modify your PTO or crank, or did yours come with 1 1/8?  Any assistance is appreciated.

Going through the same thing with the same motor. You can run an electric clutch as this motor is used on a Vermeer stump grinder. So far thats the only option I have found. 

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Northport

I was also considering an electric PTO clutch,   I did find a write-up on someone who installed a similar motor on a Wheel Horse C160.  He had a machine shop cut down the shaft to 1 1/8, which is probably the most practical option.  He said they were able to do it while installed in the engine, but I'm guessing I'll have to remove it for anyone around here.

 

I did find that this motor is available with 1, 1 1/8, and 1 7/16 shafts, but the best I've found for a new 1 1/8 crank is $300 plus shipping.  I'm looking at a motor with 200 hrs, but don't want to spend a fortune modifying it. 

 

John Deere used the Onan's with 1 7/16 shafts, but their pto's are significantly different.  Good Luck

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19richie66

good luck. Post back here if you find a good option. Mine won't be used for mowing so I only need the drive pulley on the engine at the moment. I have some ideas but nothing that wouldn't take some work to do. 

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