Jump to content
FatJackDurham

1972 GT14 Carb cleaning and build

Recommended Posts

mikehusky455

I bought a new carb and new fuel pump from ebay for my k321 pd.about $70 for both not bad.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
FatJackDurham

Alright. Carb cleaned up nicely with a dip in the GUNK dip tank. Choke plate tapped back into shape, drilled out the brass nubs and cleaned up the threads with a 4-40 tap. Best of all, I had two tiny ball bearings from an old Marbles tang aperature sight. So the detente is back in place and everything looks good. However, I won't get the gasket kit until tomorrow. Also, the engine needs a serious degreasing. I think all of the gaskets must be shot. I am hoping that after I clean all the linkage parts with the governor and get a new throttle cable that it will all work more smoothly. But that will be two weeks, because I have to go to SF next weekend. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
mikehusky455

ive had my 69' gt14 for almost a yr so far and still haven't tryied to start yet since I got,seems low compression just by spinning by hand but will see soon.good luck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
MWR
On 10/26/2016 at 3:54 PM, WHX8 said:

It will take paint off Jack, yes Walbro is a brand of carbs you might see out there, I personally never had serious issues with them ...except for on weed wackers.:wacko:

 

Thanks for those links Dick...:handgestures-thumbupright: might come in handy in the shop!

You'll have to send Fat Jack a link to your videos now MWR!

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
FatJackDurham

Keep them doggies rolling!

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
FatJackDurham

Carb cleaned and the engine back together. Unfortunately, I broke the governor ROD connector and have to get a new one. But the engine started and idled well.

 

i also need a new shut off valve.

 

i concerned about the electronics. The pto doesn't disengage, the lights don't work and there is at least on broken connection out of the rectifier. And I need a new ignition switch. I think I am going to have to retire it all. I am worried some connectors will break that can't be repaired.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ztnoo

If the PTO is a Warner electric clutch, it has to: (1) have voltage to it,  and (2) be solidly grounded, or it won't function.

Also low voltage from a failing rectifier spade or wire which is supplying insufficient voltage to charge the battery, can lead to an inoperable PTO clutch.

Ask me how I know.

I had no idea why my Warner unit wouldn't work suddenly until I found a mostly burned off rectifier spade.

New rectifier, new connectors, problem solved.

Test the clutch directly off a fully charge battery with a jumper wire. Make sure the body is well grounded. If the clutch "clicks" and moves, it works.

Make sure a newly installed rectifier is well grounded also, or it won't do its job of charging the battery.

Edited by ztnoo
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • tractorboy79
      By tractorboy79
      I have a old gt14 and the plastic plates or control panels are way past their prime, and I saw someone was remarking them with a 3d printer a little while back and I was looking to se if I could find the file but no luck. If anybody has info that would be amazing. Thanks for your time and anything helps.
    • tomabrown77
      By tomabrown77
      my 1067 stopped moving; limited slip had worn out long ago;  now input pully is turning , but tractor doesnt move --- very slight motion forward or backward if on level ground with no resistance.  Enough to tell me shift lever is actually changing gears.
      I suspect input shaft woodruff keys but might be something worse ... i am interested in perhaps buying a new, used,or rebuilt  transaxle if someone has one they would part with.  And any advice on opening up the transaxle and looking inside .  Or where i can find parts to rebuild it myself...
       
      ps i was on forum about 5 years ago,  forgot my username so i joined again
    • BAM1
      By BAM1
      Starting a slow restore to a C-160, Today she got a new fuel tank, and different tires. Started it up and went for a ride under her own power, first time since '08.
      Next comes finding the fuel leak, looks like a bad hose. and maybe some cleaning of the oily parts.

    • stevasaurus
      By stevasaurus
      I finally got a chance to rebuild a transmission with a hi/low mechanism.  This is a 6 speed #5060 transmission with the 10 pinion limited slip differential.  Notice the brake shaft comes out the hole closest to the axle housing.  The 8 speeds brake shaft comes out of the cluster shaft hole.  I did a series of videos for this thread along with some pictures.  The videos are split up between different phases of rebuilding...ie...the differential, the hi/low shift mechanism, the rest of the gears 1 & 2 (my batteries died in the camera).  Most of the information will be in the videos...be advised that I did some struggling while doing these videos and I left them as is because it is not always easy.    Hope this helps you guys.
       
      correction...
      According to the manual the bolts that hold the differential together are in backwards in the video.  The nuts should be on the input shaft side (right side) of the transmission.  Sorry, I missed that.
       
      Just got the trans split.  I use a 1" old wood chisel to start and then work the case apart with a pry bar.
       

       
      A couple shots after getting the case half off...trans is in neutral.
       

       

       
      The trans case works as a work bench for the differential...very cool
       

       
      Here is the reason the trans needed to be opened.  An axle gear lost it's teeth and the pieces were lodged in the pinions.
       

       
      Finished and back together.
       

       
      The rest are the videos...1st on is the differential...
       
       
       
      Next 2 are dealing with the hi/low mechanism...1st one taking apart and the 2nd on putting together...be nice...it was my first time. 
       
       
       
       
       
      Now, 2 videos putting the rest of the trans together...batteries died just before I finished the first video.
       
       
       
       
       
       
      Thanks for looking
    • hotajax
      By hotajax
      Morning -  Looking for a carb.  There are plenty of carbs on the 'net, but 99% do not fit because of the choke configuration.
       
      Background info:  Engine - K321S, 14 Horse Kohler.
      Choke control cable is routed to come from BELOW the carb.  To close the choke, pull on the choke knob, the choke shaft rotates counter clockwise, and the finger tab sits at the 10 o'clock position.
      To open the choke, push on the choke knob, the choke shaft rotates clockwise, and the tab sits at the 1 o'clock position.
       
      Where can I get his carb?  Thanks in advance. 
       
       
       
×
×
  • Create New...