90 312-H oil capacity

[Detector 72]

I'm full of questions... You guys have been a big help and I'm very appreciative. I was looking through my manuals that were included with the unit. The Kohler Magnum manual states 2.0 quarts for the M12 and the Toro manual states 2.5 quarts? Is this something to do with the low oil safety switch that might had been installed after the publication of the engine manual? The Kohler manual included is from 1986, not sure if this is the reason. Is it 2 or 2.5 qts of SAE30? Any specific brand? I run Kohler oil in my Commands but it's a bit pricey.

Edited August 1, 2016 by Detector

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478]

That is exactly what happened.

If you ever need to remove the low oil switch follow these instructions

Cleaning the switch is a recommended service but never hear of anyone doing it.

 

Garry

[Detector 72]

Great to learn something new! Thanks for the info

[Detector 72]

BTW, Did Kohler add a deeper oil pan or make dipstick changes or both for this extra 1/2 quart?

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478]

These 3 pages explain that the dip stick was changed.

Garry

[Detector 72]

Great to learn something new!! As far as oil I'm not sure what the previous owner run in it, he can't remember but I'd like to put what it calls for,  the manual states high quality detergent API service SF or SF/CC for the M12. It's only going to be used in above 32F, just trying to figure out a good brand, cannot recall seeing a SF class oil in many years

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478]

As oils change they up the class by a letter. Today's Sx oils have been blamed for camshaft failure.

 

The combination class like the SF/CC seems to be OK and now up to SJ/CF or CF/SJ

 

The SJ class is for gasoline engines (S=spark)

The CF class is for diesel engines (C=compression)

 

Garry

[MalMac 1,328]

Just a little side note here on the oil safety switch. They have been known to break apart then pieces spread through out the motor. I have known personally of 4 of them and was even rebuilding one for a individual when I found one had went throughout the motor jamming up the compression release and some of the particles were even lodged in the small oil holes on the cam. Just something to be aware of.

[Detector 72]

My local Snapper dealer sells Kohler SAE-30, about $7/qt, I don't see many running Kohler brand SAE-30, The previous said he thinks he used Castrol HD SAE-30 when he last changed it but wasn't sure. What brand do you guys run? My Kohler Command is a bit picky & the Kohler oil keeps the hydraulic lifters quite but the Magnum is a bit different not having a filter/hydraulic lifters. I'd like to find a good brand and stick with it. 

[MalMac 1,328]

The answer on what brand of oil to use can not really be answered. There are enough opinions of which brand to use that if lined up they would reach the moon. Use the type of oil the manufacturer tells you to use. As far as brand that's going to be up to you to decipher. Read the opinions and experiment yourself. Stick with your major brand names and you will be alright. The key thing is don't let the oil get dirty. That magnum had no filter to it. Keep fresh oil in it at the right level and you will do fine.

[Detector 72]

Totally understand and you are correct, I should had reworded my question as to what to look for specifically on the bottle. I'm a firm believer in keeping equipment serviced on schedule and using the correct oil regardless what the previous owner put in & with him there was no telling, he had gear oil in the hydro I had to get flushed out..but now it's mine & it being a older engine and oils have changed which is something I'm learning about, never thought much about API... I ventured out today and found out it is not as plentiful as I'd thought, been many years since I've bought any 30 other than B&S oil. I found some SAE-30 on sale at a parts store, The bottle states where API SN, SM, SL, SJ or SH is required so I think I'd be safe with that, it's a name brand oil. 

[rmaynard 14,861]

$7.00 for a quart of regular SAE 30W oil is nonsense. Just because it has the Kohler name on it does not make it any better than any other brand. Look on the bottle for the API Service Rating.  Any other 30W oil with the same ratings as the Kohler stuff will be comparable, and at a lower price. My local Walmart had Valvoline SAE30 on sale recently for $2.97/qt. Also, I am of the old school that says if the engine doesn't have a filter, use non-detergent oil

 

Just my 2 cents worth.

[Detector 72]

Yep, I was lucky to find some 30 on sale for $3 a quart. We live in a small town and are only down to one mower dealer from 3, our Walmart is small as is their selection, we don't even have a car dealership anymore, we did have a Ford and Chevrolet. When all the mills shut down as did everything else. Usually anything I'm after is 35 miles away, that's why I try to shop online most of the time or buy in bulk if I can afford to. I did find a online store with Kohler for $3 something a quart and shipping was very reasonable. 

[rmaynard 14,861]

Glad you found a better deal. 

[Detector 72]

 I may order a case of the Kohler SAE30  later when I get all the bugs worked out the WH, I'm had good success with Kohler oil in my Command that's 17 years old with some hard hours on it but the key is The fact I do service it on a regular basis so it may not be the brand at all. I have used some dollar store oil in the past in a small engine and it turned black very quickly, I agree with MalMac sticking to the major brands...

[bds1984 1,382]

I run 5W40 and 15W40 Rotella and Wolf's Head in my C165 and 520H.  One can run any quality, name brand 30 or 40 grade oil in our engines and be just fine; just change it out every twenty-five hours and you'll be fine.  Today's oil being blamed for camshaft failure is subjective, it doesn't really apply to engines that are in our machines and from my experience, it had more to do with poor metallurgy in the 70s/80s and/or excessive spring pressure and/or poor engine maintenance.  For some reason many people believe today's oil lacks the zinc, which is not true, but also dump a bottle of zinc additive in their crankcase not knowing that too much zinc will become corrosive and do more harm than if the oil were just left alone.  

 

If you want a good read on motor oil, check out www.bobistheoilguy.com or www.pqiamerica.com You'll learn more than you'd ever think about lubricants.  

[Howie 882]

From what I have read the zinc has been reduced in the oil, the newer engines with the roller cams do not need as much in the oil. Have watched the muscle car area and

there has been a lot more cam failures in recent years. Part of this probably has been because of the increased valve spring pressures. Also not knowing where the lifters 

are coming from and maybe cam cores. Our small engines do not have any where near 125 to 140 lbs on the seat. I have replaced a couple small engine cams, one with

the flat lobe I blamed on gas diluted oil that was run that way for extended periods. All they had to do was fix the carb.

[jonesbedford 0]

I found some Briggs and Stratton oil online that was supposed be for Wheel Horse tractors and wondered if I needed it in my B115.  I'm glad that any good SAE 30 will work, I do need to change it.  (the B115 has a B&S engine).   Do I need to change the foam rubber that is my air filter for a real Wheel Horse air filter? 

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478]

Welcome to the forum.

 

Wheel Horse relied on the engine manufacturers for engine parts. Some engine parts are in the illustrated parts lists but that info was provided as a courtesy to the tractor owner.

 

Your engine parts list should be this one. Compare the spec numbers

Garry

[Buckshot1 8]

 I used Wolf's head oil for years, as thats what my Father and Grandfather used. But the parts store I was buying it from, decided to go to some off brand. So now I use Napa oil, of which I have had good luck. I know of a few that use the oil, branded Rural King at a 1.79$ a qt. So I guess as thet say, to each his/her own.