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Stigian

Honda FiveTrax Quad.. V Twin engine swap

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Stigian
11 hours ago, elcamino/wheelhorse said:

As usual another fun time in your shop. One question since I have a similar problem. Does it take longer to move stuff out of your way than you spend working on a part for your project? :ROTF: I like your drying rack , the last time I used a c clamp on a round pipe , I ended up with a big bump on my head.  Waiting for your next installment.

 

Thanks Jim... Having to move stuff about so I can work on projects is a bit of a pain, but that's what happens when you have more stuff than storage space :lol:

If my plans for my next WH build don't change I'm going to have to find a lot more parts storage space!!

C clamps on round pipe isn't that bright an idea, but it's much safer if two of you are doing the clamping at the same time :)

 

Yesterday was spent with a video camera and some very large green sheets, so no more progress until tomorrow..

 

Other than...

 

Thanks to Nigel I now have a nice pair of Spax adjustable coil over shocks...
Shorten the springs a little bit and some new top mounts on the frame and they should work 1f603.png

 

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Stigian

 

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Pullstart

Ian, where was the quad previously stored, to get that much rust and corrosion on the suspension and undercarriage parts?

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Stigian
On 06/12/2016 at 7:20 PM, pullstart said:

Ian, where was the quad previously stored, to get that much rust and corrosion on the suspension and undercarriage parts?

 

I'm starting to think it lived at the bottom of a pond at some point in it's life!

 

Progress has been a tad slow, but MadTrax now has front shocks fitted..

All I had to do was chop an inch odd from the springs, change the top mounts on the shocks and move the shock mountings up a bit on the frame!

 

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Stigian

Cleaning and painting the engine time had come.. Once the radiator and mountings plus the carbs were off the engine looked a lot smaller..

And a lot cleaner after lots of time with wire brushes on a drill :D

 

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Parts like the fan shroud were very rusty..

 

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But after a lot of cleaning, priming and top coating it looked good along with the radiator..

 

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And the radiator/front engine mount thingy.

 

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The engine looks quite good too :D:thumbs:

 

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Before the engine could go back in there was a slight frame mod to do.. As the shock mounts had been moved up..

 

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The strengthening bar between them also got moved up..

 

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Engine in, thanks for your help today Rob should you be reading this.

 

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I just need to finish sorting out the rat's nest of a wiring loom!

 

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Sparky

Pretty scary wiring harness you have hanging off the motor in the second pic. You plan to weed it out some?

  Mike.....

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Stigian
On 20/12/2016 at 0:43 AM, Sparky said:

Pretty scary wiring harness you have hanging off the motor in the second pic. You plan to weed it out some?

  Mike.....

 

Hey Mike, how's you?   Yeah the wiring is scary at the mo, I've removed a few wires that are not needed but I need a wiring diagram to sort out the other "unknown" wires so I only keep what's needed to run the engine..

 

All the front end parts had a session with some rattle cans.

 

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A spring looking good in black.. Well, it did look good until I noticed how much I had missed on the other side..  Spring can be a right pain to paint!

 

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The front end bolted back on.. The good thing with painting everything satin black is I can just spray over any pain chips without having to mask anything up :D

 

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Stigian

Not a great deal to report as I've not been up the workshop apart from a few hours Friday where my body needed a break from all the festive sitting around!

Trying to follow a wiring diagram on a smart phone (printer out of ink) was interesting but I did manage to remove a few more un-needed wires from the loom...
It's starting to look less frightening now :D

 

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Just before silly season hit I pulled the gauges out of a box to finish them off..
The glass "eyebrow"/top/bit that actually holds the gauges in (the pods were make from ride on mower headlamps remember) needed a little something to stop them from flying apart during high speed jumps/crashes (delete according to taste/fear/bravery).
A bit hard to see from this photo snatched from video footage, but there is a small Allen key bolt that screws through a hole in the lip thingy into a threaded insert welded to the pod body.
 

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Gauge pod body's and trim/eyebrow top ring thingys hit with the black stuff..

 

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To finish this update off here's the latest MadTrax video where I play around some more with special effects and a few sound effects as well..
I even do some work on MadTrax :D

 

 

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Stigian

Morning all, time for a long over due update starting with a much more detailed photo (that I found buried in my phone) of the captive nut and screw thingy that holds the top of the gauge pods together.

 

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Both freshly painted gauge pods were part assembled and bolted back on MadTrax.. They looked so terrible that they came off again, got hit will some filler and then repainted!

Me thinks they look much better now :)

 

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The temp gauge and warning lights almost ready to go in the pod. The original bike warning lights would not fit in easy..

 

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So I bought some of these :D

 

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Two extra holes drilled in the temp gauge mounting plate which for some reason doesn't look too happy about it!!  :o:D

 

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A small but worthy attention to detail thing..   The new warning lights had chrome effect surrounds.. That would never do, something shiny!!   So.... :D

 

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Fitting the temp gauge and warning lights in the pod was a bit tight... Yes the paints chipped already :lol:

 

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Ta-Daa..

 

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The rev counter...

 

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A new rev counter cable was fitted, which meant the radiator had to come off the engine again!

 

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I'm finally happy with the gauges now :)

 

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The carbs had a quick (very quick) clean up before being hit with some black paint.

For some reason the engine when in the trike never had a choke cable fitted, but it was quite easy to fit the original quad cable to the carbs.

 

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Carbs fitted.

 

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The throttle cable had seen better days and decided to snap! Looking at this "unsnapped" section of it I'm surprised it had held together for as long as it did!

Another thing for the shopping list!

 

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Tank and seat plonked back on..

 

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The reason for fitting the tank was to work out if I needed to re-position the fuel tap.. As it turned out the original tap position was spot on, it's just a shame someone had cut it out to fit it to Why Not's tank!

 

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The plan was to cut this tap off the trikes tank and graft it onto MadTrax's tank..

 

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Well... That was the plan until I found the tank still had some petrol in it!   I guess it still is the plan, it will just have to wait a few day for the tank to air out..

 

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Some funky airbrushing.. Looks like a previous owner had a thing for Iron Maiden :hdance::D

 

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Pullstart

So Ian, what you're saying is that this tractor can cruise around at about 9650 rpms because that's not in the red.  Cool!

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Digger 66
On 12/19/2016 at 5:42 PM, Stigian said:

 

 

 

 

 

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I don't want to nit-pick , but are you going to "comb" out those bent fins ? 

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Stigian
On 18/01/2017 at 11:46 PM, pullstart said:

So Ian, what you're saying is that this tractor can cruise around at about 9650 rpms because that's not in the red.  Cool!

 

Hi Pullstart, yep it should be safe to rev the engine up to 9650 rpm.. Cool indeed :D

 

 

On 19/01/2017 at 0:05 AM, Digger 66 said:

 

I don't want to nit-pick , but are you going to "comb" out those bent fins ? 

 

Don't worry, the fins will get a good combing :thumbs:

 

Wow was it really January I last worked on MadTrax!!

I have been a bit distracted by an RJ, a Burban, a lathe bench etc but I am back on MadTrax's case now :D

 

In order to keep this in some kind of order, we had best start with a video with a rather silly start :lol:

 

 

 

As hinted at the end of the video some "slight" changes were about to happen..

 

It was this photo that started the ball (or should it be quad) rolling :D

The wheels came from the remain of a Quadziller quad that Nigel had stored away in a vast amount of brambles :lol:

 

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There was no way the bigger wheels would bolt onto the original front hubs and rear axle as the PCD's are nowhere near the same..

Making adaptors for the front wheels wouldn't be too bad of a job, but the rears would need at least an 8 inch wide adaptor plate each side which would do the axles bearings any good!

Also the original rear axles internal brake wasn't working at all!!

 

Sooooooooo...   My brain started chewing an idea over.... Then out came the tape measure to check on the idea...

 

Anyway...

 

Quite a few months ago when MadTrax was being stripped down for paint I found that I couldn't get the exhaust off the engine!

Something had closed up during welding and made the very small clearance there was too small to clear anything..

So, the only option was to put an extra flange in the system.. Almost finished here, just need the welding finished when it's unbolted.

 

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And on to todays main attraction :D

 

Never being one to take the easy option and also having a history of making drastic changes when I'm most of the way through a build, I thought the best way to bolt the new wheels on is if

I use the matching hubs.....   And suspension.... And brakes....... And steering :lol::D

 

With a couple of bars cut out under the seat the Quadziller rear end could be rolled in place.

 

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The heavy duty sump guard came in handy, nice and flat for balancing on a widened wheel rim that was just the right height.

With the front end stripped off, there was only one thing to do..

 

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Slice off her nose :D

 

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To fit this, Quadzillers front end :D

 

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A little trimming later and both ends are near enough in the right places.

 

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Lot's of measuring later the front and middle sections lined up and were held together with some tempoary bracing.

The first two new tube to on were the rear end, I just had to give her a slightly cheeky curvy rear :lol:

 

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No problems getting the exhaust back on, the battery box will be cut out as MadTrax has one already.

 

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Working out how to make the top shock mounts was interesting, but worth it as they look good. It's a shame that I ran out of welding gas as I was tack welding them on!

I will put a bracing tube between the shock mounts.

 

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And that's where the build is up to for now... More to happen when I get more gas..... (No fart jokes please) :lol::D

 

 
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elcamino/wheelhorse

@Stigian I was wondering where you were on the build, I did not realize that you had not posted anything since January. One question about the latest build , when you are finished "Will it cut grass ?":ROTF:

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Pullstart

Are you going to make use of that front differential?  It looks great with the new suspension!

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Stigian
On 25/08/2017 at 10:14 PM, elcamino/wheelhorse said:

@Stigian I was wondering where you were on the build, I did not realize that you had not posted anything since January. One question about the latest build , when you are finished "Will it cut grass ?":ROTF:

 

Plenty of space to mount a cutting deck underneeth Jim, though getting drive to it would be interesting.. :lol:

 

 

On 28/08/2017 at 0:56 PM, pullstart said:

Are you going to make use of that front differential?  It looks great with the new suspension!

 

I am indeed Pullstart, as it's there it would be daft no to take full advantage of it :D

 

 

Morning all, bit more of a MadTrax update for you.. Yep, yet more slicing and welding, even more of the same to come :lol:

 

The box section under/around the rear diff needed to come out as it just looked rubbish!!

Slicing it off in one bit was interesting ! :lol:

 

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In went some new tube..

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A lot of extra tempoary bracing went in to stop things moving..

The big blue tubes hold the rear end off the bench as I had to remove both rear wheels and move the shocks so I could get a cutting disc in..

 

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Not fully welding in yet, but I have added a cross tube between the end of the new rails since this pic was taken..

 

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It was at this point my Murex 165 TradeMig shat it's self and decided it didn't want to produce good welds any more!
When using it you can feel it's "pulcing" and just has lost it's amps and doesn't want to penetrate!!
So a BIG THANK YOU to Nigel for offing me the use of his welder until I can get mine fixed which will hopefully be some time next week..
Nigel's Mig on the right, naughty Mig on the left!

 

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Much welding and the wheels put back on later the rear end looks like this.. Some extra strengthening and tidying up needed but it's looking good.

 

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Another big :tthankyou: to Nigel for helping me get the new front end lined up and squared up with the rest of the frame.. This took a suprisingly long amount of time...

Bracing was added after this photo was taken to keep it in the right place.

 

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Time to get serious with the front end..

Not the best of photo's as someone had put an exhaust in the way, but the front is now welded to the rest of it.. I will put a load more strength in this area but it's one of those jobs best done later when the frame is stipped down (again) and I can turn it upside down.

 

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So I could do some structural slicing the front diff needed to be moved forward and out the way a bit..

Of course two of the Allen Key bolts came undone with only a small fight, the front two refused to budge and eventually got chewed up..

The only way to undo them without grinding the heads off was to weld a bit of bar to the bolt head and hope the heat would free the thread up....

 

Which it did.  :thumbs:

 

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There's no two ways about it, the Quadzilla front strut towers looked ugly, really ugly.. So why not turn it around and make them a feature :D

With yet more tempoary bracing in place and the top of the towers already mostly wrapped in tube, half the O/S strut tower was cut out!

 

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Cleaning up the welds was not fun as they were very hard!

 

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Fresh tube welded back in to replace the metal I had cut out, and a Nigel holding the rear tube in place..

 

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A close up for you.

 

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And a view from the front and top.... By the time we are finished it will look way better and be much stronger than the original Quadzilla strut towers :D

 

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Oh..... Much to my and Nigel's suprise I found the Quadzilla gear/transfer box the other day..  Both Nigel and I thought it had long gone!

 

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If I can make it fit in this space, MadTrax will have HI/Low ratios and a reverse.. Well 5 of em :D:lol:

 

FTX384.jpg.9d14d3417a7cc0167b3739eaca68596d.jpg

 
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Pullstart

This thing just took a huge turn... for the better of course.  You'll probably need that traction of 4 lugged tires... so long it doesn't just carry the front 2!

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Stigian
On 13/09/2017 at 5:22 PM, pullstart said:

This thing just took a huge turn... for the better of course.  You'll probably need that traction of 4 lugged tires... so long it doesn't just carry the front 2!

 

Hi Pullstart, I don't think the front wheels will lift on launch, she's quite a heavy ol girl :lol:

 

Owdo all, MadTrax is coming along nicely, along with a lot of new tube the looks have changed as well :)

 

By only doing one corner at a time the Quadzilla strut towers have gone, I think the tube looks much better.

 

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A new nose taking shape.

 

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You can also see some new tube connecting the top of the struts to MadTrax's frame just in front of the gas tank..  The photo's don't show it too well but the curves match and line up with other tube..

 

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Nose job finished, not as pointy as the first one and it looks all the better for it... No chance of it digging in and throwing me over the bars now :lol:

 

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A single tube connects the nose to the frame, hopefully there is still enough space left to get the diff out when I need to :lol:

 

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When I cut the front off it left four open tubes on the frame, so they needed to be tied into the new front end... 

 

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The two tower tubes will be joined together, something like this only cut to fit and without the hand to hold it up :D

 

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Oh, here's a few photo's from Thursday when we wheel MadTrax outside to have a look from all angles.. Something that's hard to do when she's up on the bench..

 

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And for your viewing pleasure here's the latest MadTrax video..... Warning!!!   It is a bit long!

 

 

Edited by Stigian
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Stigian

Back on the bench the rear end was stripped off, a bit of grinder work later and the transfer box was almost in.

 

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By almost, I mean the box fitted in but splines wouldn't quite line up..
By connecting the diff and tranfer box shafts I get drive to the rear diff but it also dictates exactly where the TF box has to go.

 

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And this is the point where I need some help guys..
The front and rear came from a 2012 Quadzilla 325E 4x4.
The problem is I can't get the rear half shafts out of the diff!
All the research I've done says inside the rear end is a crown wheel that has a shaft with splines on each end running through it.
The end of the half shaft should have internal splines that push over the "crown wheel shaft" and is held in place by and expanding spring/washer thingy.
I can pull the end of the half shaft out of the er.. diff/and or crown wheel case only a certain amount and then it feels like there is an internal "cir clip" holding the shaft in..
Also as you will see from the photo the end of the half shaft has external splines not internal ones like the internet whould have me believe!
My thoughts are it does have a diff in the back, but someone has cracked the case open and welded it up to make a "locked" rear end.. There is plenty of signs that someone has been in the rear end before, lot's of mastic type sealer on the case joins!

Oh, the diff won't come out of the frame without taking the end of the half shafts out first!

 

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To join the transfer box to the rear diff I needed the longest length of slined section from one of the Quadzilla prop shafts..

 

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You might say the UJ was a bit worn!

 

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The "coupler" needs a bit of work but transfer box and rear diff joined

 

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A shaft with 2 UJ's comes out of the front of the transfer box.

 

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Which will fit onto a nice sturdy shaft running forward with bearings to hold it in place.
The thin walled white tube is for illustration purposes only 1f603.png

 

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The front of the shaft will connect to the front diff via some very strong chain and sprockets.

 

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Disclaimer...  " The above chain idea has now been changed but I've put it in as it's part of the MadTrax story" :lol:

 

 

 

Still no luck getting the rear diff out, but I did take the input shaft out to try and see what's going on inside..
No diff inside but both cogs look in great shape.

 

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Getting drive from the Honda bike gearbox was always going to be fun as there isn't much space!

 

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The only thing I could do was move the transfer box as far back as possible.
So out came the Quadzilla battery tray, followed by a slice taken out of a rear strut tower.

 

FTX418.jpg.dbbe952241f31a2b8924f6b1934afb78.jpg

 

FTX419.jpg.b2fd32689e5a81552fa3965097699066.jpg

 

 

The transfer box/rear diff coupler limits how far box the TB (transfer box) can be moved back.

 

FTX425.jpg.c49687f0179829093e91ecea26bc0baf.jpg

 

 

But notch cut out of the strut tower allowed me to move the TB back a good 1/2 inch.. Not much but it all helps.

 

FTX426.jpg.28976f5aae71bd06a863778084cab6a8.jpg

 

 

At this point I still didn't have a working Mig welder and couldn't really do any more on the project, so I tidied the bench and had a think.

 

FTX423.jpg.cef2cc99a40df138dc5c7be2a60fb697.jpg

 

 

A change of plan getting the drive to the front er... I keep going to call them "diff's" but they dont have a diff in them!
Anyway, you know what I mean.
Rather than go the chain and sprockets way I meantioned in my last update, I will be using the Quadzilla drive shafts, all I need is one more UJ tyo get the shafts around the engine.
Of course the front part of the exhaust won't fit because of a drive shaft in the way, but hey, it's only metal 1f603.png

 

FTX424.jpg.ab0122340b849f91ee51fdc81eacefa3.jpg

 

 

While on the subject of shafts, this is part of the drive shaft that fit's on the bike gearbox, the problem is the splines inside don't go all the way to the UJ, so I can't just cut it to length!
The only way to do it is to slice a bit out the middle and weld the splined section back on much closer to the UJ.
I need to shorten this so it will fit onto the gearbox splines and leave enough room for the UJ on the shaft that runs from the TB to the front axle.
To make it easier to line the two bits back up for welding I needed to machine the slined end to an even size outside.

 

FTX428.jpg.0cceb8b70c466ad37d142872c55e9ddd.jpg

 

 

As the UJ isn't designed to be taken apart (thanks for that Honda!) I had to be inventive and find a way to hold it all steady in the lathe.
It's been a long time since I've used a steady rest, but it did the job well and the machining went smoothly.

 

FTX429.jpg.db2ac60cc55d7e2016d77c4f21e05b7c.jpg

A big thank you to Rex at this point for turning up at the workshop one day sporting a couple of massive MAN truck steering columns. Thanks mate 1f44d.png

 

FTX430.jpg.47919922241ddb41658aac66f7ab427d.jpg

 

 

I can't use two of the UJ's as they have a plastic center bit.

"I have since found out that the plastic bit is only a cover so I can use them"

 

FTX431.jpg.8b94ab1b48f484d22a7a4867d95e06b9.jpg

 

 

But I can use the shafts and other UJ's (one of which is a double) to get the power from the GB (gearbox) to the TB input shaft... But more on that when I get to sort it.

 

FTX432.jpg.8f3541b23a2eee61cec2d22cbf75f9f5.jpg

 

 

With my Murex TradeMig finally fixed I decided to celebrate and make some mounts for the TB.
Two of the mounts were cut off the remains of the Quadzilla frame which gave me a good start.
Space is so tight getting the TB in and out of the frame I have to make all the mounts removable from the frame so they don't get in the way!
I welded on a couple of captive nut before welding this bit to the frame.
Once the TB has been taken out again I can fully weld it up.

 

FTX433.jpg.4f8276df5551e82d933122da645a852f.jpg

 

 

MMmmm, some nice strong welds 1f603.png

 

FTX434.jpg.caf12eafdbad8fbe103842013f1ca174.jpg

 

 

This bracket bolts the TB to the frame, but I didn't like the look of it.

 

FTX435.jpg.580e43ec7f1880e2780b6e507ffa37cf.jpg

 

 

So the corners were sliced off.

 

FTX436.jpg.f1905c1ac24e47b14251350815bc9a2d.jpg

 

 

And some new metal was added to put the strenth back in the bracket.
Will you look at those pretty colours, yep I'd say my Mig is now working better than ever and producing the heat it needs to do a very strong weld 1f603.png

 

FTX437.jpg.74a466311a65edd336350d80dbf002e8.jpg

 

 

That looks better..

 

FTX438.jpg.ff3f2ea42d4c412f3b1f3a252554bf19.jpg

 

 

The TB mount the other side. Nice and strong (well it will be when I can fully weld it up when the TB comes out), but I'm not sure I like the shape of it so a few mods will need to be done.

 

FTX439.jpg.222e815056a409a8305eb45f61fbb51e.jpg

 

FTX440.jpg.1b7e0c46301eee5925552a00dc43c42d.jpg

On 25/10/2017 at 6:12 PM, ranger said:

If you're going to use those steering shafts for drive shafts, how about balance? Those clamping thingy's look a bit offset.

 

Well spotted :)

The off-set bits of the UJ's will be ground down to make them..er... Not off-set :lol:

As I will be grinding off the bits where the clamping bolts go I will need another way of making sure the UJ's don't come off the shafts..

On the Quadzilla roll pins were used, so that would be the way to go I think..

 

The TB didn't officially have a mount around the input shaft I thought it might be wise to make one as a lot of forces will be going into the TB there..
A cardboard template taking shape, pencils being just the right size to screww into an M8 thread 1f600.png

 

FTX441.jpg.06d5a8fbd87b8371bc2b1a8f62785d66.jpg

 

 

As I didn't have a big enough bit of strong plate to make the bracket from I had to make it in two parts.

 

FTX442.jpg.c6307cd5f18a5e9e7324c0b1a765e97c.jpgFTX443.jpg.bc97d0df77cc4dc6033d07af9517eee9.jpg

 

 

Two of the bolt holes on the TB didn't stick out as much as the other two, so to level things up a couple of spacers were added to the inside of the plate.

 

FTX444.jpg.bca504f1fea81f1c8c62d736be1e7334.jpg

 

 

Welds cleaned up. The chain driller hole is slowly getting filed round. By doing it a bit at a time it breaks the bordom/arm ache up into managable bite sized chunks :lol: 

 

FTX445.jpg.3aeec0be435377b6da9a02f4091ddcc9.jpg

 

 

Bolted back on with a few extras.
The top right hand bolt bolts into a threaded tube thats welded to the strut tower.
As any "tabs with captive nuts" type things would get in the way of reoving the TB, I had to come up with another mounting spot.

 

FTX446.jpg.8f905b785029f0089ac0c1ceec1d7b9c.jpg

 

 

Something like this..
It was also a good time to mark out a bolt hole.

 

FTX447.jpg.a5ea32ce3f667f5e1bebaa23b11c8008.jpg

 

FTX448.jpg.823a27bb64bc1053dd1047baa00f5bf1.jpg

 

 

Off with the bracket them slice the top off the foot rest mount..
Drill it, weld a captive nut inside then weld it all back onto the frame... Top mounting point sorted

 

FTX449.jpg.6dea2b8c856a33ffd311324a74d933c0.jpg

 

FTX450.jpg.35031f7e121c03437f2eace82bd17a32.jpg

To get the drive from the Honda bike gearbox to the TB I had to find a way of turning the drive direction around by 90'd..

One of the steering UJ's fitted with the the splined section from the original CX/trike propshaft..

 

FTX453.jpg.c9f86e5db80a883b7df32e3082a96dd6.jpg

 

 

The shaft will run diagonally between the engine and TB with a nice meaty bearing to hold it in place.

 

FTX454.jpg.fba79d2d48ba1f32fafe48884427fa61.jpg

 

 

And via this double UJ thingy the drive will come out the side of the frame through another meaty bearing and put the drive in the same orientation as the TB input shaft..

 

FTX455.jpg.a4146025802376257f7bf9b433b7054a.jpg

 

 

Working out space for the TB to front drive shaft.

 

FTX457.jpg.6b037011a303407915ca5991f43867ab.jpg

 

 

Using a mixture of different shafts and UJ's there is plenty of space to run the front drive up the side of the engine.

 

FTX458.jpg.dfda0f27477bf8ef657cb2c72435021e.jpg

 

 

Hhhmm... Maybe not quite the same size where they need to be joined!

 

FTX459.jpg.7ce3afe85defa6d77750029dcdc0441e.jpg

 

 

A bit of lathe work later..

 

FTX460.jpg.b86fab99e25eee8a9fe9dd5759bc991e.jpg

 

 

Ta-Daa :lol:

 

FTX461.jpg.daecf6d38220586775c0b39934e164d6.jpg

 

 

Not fully fitted together in this photo as I don't know the exact length yet, but you get the idea :)

 

FTX463.jpg.3a2b108fc5e507b9ca512fda7f25db1f.jpg

 

 

Popping back around to the other side of MadTrax for a mo, the pulley (I will be using chain and sprockets) is about the right size to give me an idea how much space I need to create to fit a bearing in.

 

FTX465.jpg.b97f097c021f210a1e1fe3d3a854a91d.jpg

 

 

I need to slice some of the frame out here, but I planned to do that anyway to get rid of the un-needed swing arm mount.. It's the only bit left that says "I've welded a few extra tubes to a bike frame" :lol::D

 

FTX466.jpg.ce305e5d9dcfb2e1edba10027ff0296b.jpg

 

 

The bearings arrived Wednesday but I've not had a chance to do anything with them.. That's fun for tomorrow :D

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Sarge

I'm interested in seeing what this thing weighs when it's done - might want to upgrade the brakes....?

 

Sarge

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Stigian
On 29/10/2017 at 1:35 PM, Sarge said:

I'm interested in seeing what this thing weighs when it's done - might want to upgrade the brakes....?

 

Sarge

 

Hey Sarge, weight wise it's going to be rather heavy, though the total weight will always be a guess as I have no way to weigh it..

 

The brakes have a had a bit of an upgrade, it did have drums on the front and an inbuilt brake on the rear swing arm... Now it's got discs on all four corners :thumbs:

 

While waiting for the bearings to turn up, I thought I'd make a start on a sleeve to fit over the input shaft on the TB..

Not the best photo (I will get a better one) but here's the shaft in question.

 

FTX427.jpg.7b0ba3d4bbe71d6dfc6f17042cffcffc.jpg

 

 

The only bit of steel bar I have which is long enough is made from very hard steel and looks like it has been used to hold a JCB bucket on... That sort of hardness!

Anyway, I can make it in two parts and weld them together which would make it easier turning the tapered part half way down the shaft inside..

These two lumps I made years ago as pivot points for a dozer blade that was going to go on the 6x6..

A lot of turning to get them down to size!

 

At least one is mostly done :)

 

FTX469.jpg.f9249631dd636be63834460ed65c19c8.jpg

 

 

Woo Hoo... The bearings arrived :thumbs:

Here's the TB to front end bearing mocked in place..

 

FTX468.jpg.4b1698735cd2d98e89b57de25ffdda4d.jpg

 

 

Best start getting the bearings mounted then.. First up something to bolt them to.. Well, a couple of somethings..

 

FTX470.jpg.14b7b5a0b6ccff3d6cca5ac53ea8e7b5.jpg

 

 

Bolted on. The black bit of steel across the lower bearing bolts is just to keep the bearing square to each other.

You can just see where I welded on some tempoary bracing to the drive shaft to stop anything moving about withough the axle stand and other bits that were holding the bearings etc in place.

 

FTX471.jpg.1276a7344dfcf72566de0528cd09a0c4.jpg

 

 

If you flip the bearings over you can see the captive nuts that have been welded on... Don't think they are going anywhere :lol::D

 

FTX472.jpg.6abb75850f63961ee33f76c0067c411f.jpg

 

 

Now the fun bit.. Making four somethings to bridge the gap between the back of the bearings and the chassis/frame..

 

FTX473.jpg.a735013775b71e137bbb00fc1e7ad169.jpg

 

 

Starting with a bit of CAD (cardboard aided design) work.. :lol:

 

FTX474.jpg.e4fa613a038e5a14d5716c2153f91832.jpg

 

 

Which goes somewhere here.. Rather hard to hold it in place and take a farto at the same time!

 

FTX475.jpg.3407f98a1d822478d6d1924ca24da03b.jpg

 

 

Roughly cut out of steel..

 

FTX476.jpg.0488e418c7cfe5f4f99cc601c4809b92.jpg

 

 

That looks better.

 

FTX477.jpg.2b2cb8acebf8604ede7118a9d1242a51.jpg

 

 

Four of em made and tacked in place..

 

FTX478.jpg.c304ce865765f649c6009df2a7ac90d9.jpg

 

 

Bearings off..

 

FTX479.jpg.7b2866514d6a55f9723945ec3a04ee68.jpg

 

 

Fully welded up... Almost..  It will be easier to weld the extreme top on bottoms where the brackets fit on the frame without the engine in and sump guard in place, so that can wait until stripdown time.

 

FTX480.jpg.02d97297e5ecbb8284c1a17a4ff0cca3.jpg

 

 

Welds ground down, a nice curve at the back to clear the engine.

 

FTX482.jpg.c2515a31583df1b074d436259c4a907c.jpg

 

 

And most importantly, there is still plenty of UJ clearance here..

 

FTX483.jpg.f22206e0f386ffca78be4a288906f9be.jpg

 

 

And here :thumbs:

 

FTX485.jpg.0ec6ee09fc30e8e33a009dd25bcb65e8.jpg

 

 

And to finish off this update, a photo of the bearings etc quickly bolted on for this very photo.. The mounts were still very hot from welding and grinding so I didn't want the bearings sitting getting hot for too long..

 

FTX484.jpg.40dd0d0204ac1ea85c8800268532c549.jpg

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elcamino/wheelhorse

Cardboard Aided Design " excellent " , I always wondered what CAD stood for. 

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Sarge

Yup - used CAD last night to make a baffle to seal the lawn vac to the deck on the 16 Auto - works great .

 

I like how you set up those bearings to the drive axles - nice to keep them out in the open and easily accessible as well as not building up mud to rot it out .

 

Sarge

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Stigian
On 03/11/2017 at 8:26 PM, elcamino/wheelhorse said:

Cardboard Aided Design " excellent " , I always wondered what CAD stood for. 

 

Well now you know Jim :D

 

 

On 04/11/2017 at 3:28 PM, Sarge said:

Yup - used CAD last night to make a baffle to seal the lawn vac to the deck on the 16 Auto - works great .

 

I like how you set up those bearings to the drive axles - nice to keep them out in the open and easily accessible as well as not building up mud to rot it out .

 

Sarge

 

Thanks Sarge, along the side of the engine was the only space I could put the bearings and shafts, but as you say they are easy to get at and shouldn't collect too much muck and mud... I will make a cover for the shafts and bearings as I don't want it grabbing a trouser leg and pulling me in!

 

Not much to report, Monday was spent arguing with a car radio, and yesterday my knees were so bad I was only in the workshop for a little while..

 

But I did manage to get the front driveshaft welded up..

 

FTX486.jpg.4790528be8baa851416a35182a23f1dd.jpg

 

 

I don't think the welds are going to break :D

 

FTX487.jpg.e5ade7c9eb97550378aa03262dc9b276.jpg

 

 

Here's the latest MadTrax video... Enjoy :thumbs:

 

 

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Stigian

Hi guy's n Girls, long time no update.. So here's a bit of a big one for you..

 

Starting with a mistake on my part which was spotted buy Doug on MOM..

 

On 08/11/2017 at 10:50 AM, ranger said:

"Great workmanship and thought going into this project Ian, grand job. :thumbs:

I hate to say this but, :hide: in the photo of your driveshaft, it looks like the shaft yokes are out of phase.

All shafts I've had dealings with, (apart from steering shafts installed at high angles, which don't spin at high speed), always have the shaft inner yokes in line to aid in cancelling out vibrations, not a problem if the whole assembly runs in a dead straight line, but when angles are involved?

Not a criticism , just an observation . You don't want that coming adrift at any speed close to your leg The ideal perhaps, would be a pair of CV joints, if there's room."

 

 

Well spotted Doug, I had an idea that the yokes both should be in a certain position but wasn't sure which.. Guess I should of googled it first!   At least I had a 50/50 chance of getting it right :D

The shaft also had a slight length problem as something had moved during welding, so in the vice the shaft went to have a weld cut down.

 

FTX488.jpg.8b1fa7cd1282af54db54bfa70afe1774.jpg

 

 

Welded back up at the right length with the UJ's in phase :D

 

FTX489.jpg.81ddd31c4305769e278188d6d8ca8e98.jpg

 

 

The shaft out the TB is way too hard to drill, so the UJ is held on with a couple of grub screws.. I will add a couple more for peace of mind..

 

FTX490.jpg.229afa1fbb8c535545462e6a71d82e65.jpg

 

 

The UJ's that fit on the shaft with bearings are a very tight fit on the shaft, so I drilled them out to fit some nice tight roll pins.. The bolts are only there at the mo to make it easier to take things apart (many times) during building and will be replaced with roll pins.

 

FTX492.jpg.3bc00072b6d35f830de9b4492364f1cc.jpg

 

FTX491.jpg.8ee70a5f262a9750a8fa9f8f4e1df537.jpg

 

 

One of the UJ's being a MAN steering coloum UJ is normally held onto a shaft with a nut and bolt one side..
Fine if it's being used for steering but as it will be turning a lot faster it would of been out of balance!

My solution was to cut most of the clamping bit off but leave enough to get a bolt through and clamp it tightly.
(The drill bit is only there to line the holes up for putting a roll pin through)

 

FTX494.jpg.ff8548b12782223b6f18fe93357e09f5.jpg

 

FTX495.jpg.6d3f8a11a4c6c398d6723a1656b08a59.jpg

 

 

Part welded up.. A little at a time as I didn't want to fry the UJ.
 

FTX496.jpg.a74353db47d6303e8c207bf1ce2b1a25.jpg

 

 

The bolt head and tread were cut off before more welding, then some shaping.. Still a little more to take off..

 

FTX497.jpg.2734534de8eb5dc5be4fbe5d35afb743.jpg

 

FTX498.jpg.9f5776b9c3cacde16e71260d3351c0b3.jpg

 

 

Oh, and I found a rather nice if rusty steel bar buried in the workshop, I guess I will be re-making the TB input shaft sleeve, but this time out of one piece..
It's a good job I have just got some more cutting tips and cooling fluid for the lathe :D

 

FTX493.jpg.d3f8979832afa484047cadb114090576.jpg

 

 

With all the front drive train bolted back on the foot rest thingy needed a little trim to clear a UJ.. I will add a cover over the shafts/UJ's to add some leg protection should something go bang and start flapping about the place.

 

FTX499.jpg.c20a57999860c4e4a079ae586dab1c24.jpg

 

 

Before I started to cut any more metal out I put some strength back in with a nice bit of curved tube that clears the UJ

When the frame is stripped back down I will add some extra metal to tie the tubes together neatly.

 

FTX502.jpg.af80da638621f87c5a4857ca773866ae.jpg

 

 

This join between old and new tubes just had to go!

 

FTX503.jpg.1560520028c18deebe23ae8f371b485c.jpg

 

 

Hhmmm, nice rust inside one of the few remaining bits of the original FourTrax frame... It felt good to remove it :D

 

FTX504.jpg.7fe55a7b002957fb86fc7f7321a8e26e.jpg

 

 

There is no neat way of joining big and little tube together, at least the other end is easy :D

 

FTX505.jpg.641ab3e707e2436513836c0ab0edbcd1.jpg

 

 

For extra strength a length of steel bar has been added inside, you can just about see it where the tubes join.. The steel bar does go all the way up and in the larger tube.

 

FTX506.jpg.4c8f3eec4b29ecaf31d219b7cffc9c18.jpg

 

 

I like getting good value for money, think I might of got the maximum use out of this cutting disc :lol:

 

FTX507.jpg.f04e6ce15ca2b2f821bafe02a0c427b0.jpg

 

 

Compair it to a new disc!!    While on the subject, some cheap cutting discs are better than others, I can't remember the make (Germany is mentioned on the Fleabay ad) but they are by far the fastest wearing most easily broken disc's I have ever bought!

 

FTX508.jpg.6d1522cf061a6dd87bb268ee03bdc22a.jpg

 

 

That looks better..

 

FTX509.jpg.f46c93123cfd7b199e8d9434d8dab558.jpg

 

 

Way better than the bit I removed :D

 

FTX510.jpg.2c61e218eb5a9c69bda7961ab9a830b4.jpg

 

 

Now the fun part, getting drive from the Honda bike gearbox which points towards the back, out the left side of the frame. :D

 

A thank you to Nigel at this point for getting a shaft, pulley and UJ off the remains of a Kubota flail mower before it went off for scrap... It really was that rotten!

The UJ in question, heavy duty and with no play in the bearings at all :thumbs:

 

FTX512.jpg.50bf4e834dfd709c1af0df588e0ff19c.jpg

 

 

One side of the UJ is easy to attach as I have the shaft and roll pin that came out of it..

 

FTX513.jpg.d69a94ce870d9f5f73fcd1ee0017d178.jpg

 

 

The other end has or (should I say had) some rather large splines!

 

FTX514.jpg.676fccaf1a2a4ef11f099f948d78780a.jpg

 

 

I'd be lost without a lathe, taking the OD down to size before cutting it off.

 

FTX515.jpg.145c6b3be5ce02b5ace1c29d1afae5cb.jpg

 

 

Boring the ID out, a couple of arty flying cooling fluid shots :D

 

FTX517.jpg.997fe692e716983dea29e102458a75a6.jpg

 

FTX516.jpg.874d1f376e932c137c87654a66679879.jpg

 

 

The finished sleeve, yes it was turned down from a lump of steel the same shape and size it's standing on! :lol:

 

FTX518.jpg.331f00efcb0a3edcc1f3838465ba9e2c.jpg

 

 

UJ, shaft and sleeve..

 

FTX519.jpg.b6e7d14906bdd6c1db150ce69004662f.jpg

 

 

A nice tight fit..  The sleeve has now been welded into the end of the UJ, yet another roll pin will hold it all together.

 

FTX520.jpg.fc70fc3e3c56f203b4e45d0a985c091d.jpg

 

 

Starting at the back, or is it the front!... Er.. Back of engine :D  we have a UJ with splines in one end to slide over the output shaft on the bike gearbox.

 

FTX525.jpg.03b9c9f7a8fc46998057d703437f0445.jpg

 

 

A shaft then goes through another bearing and into the Kubota UJ..

 

FTX524.jpg.c8a489076989e945692bd4fe944c242a.jpg

 

 

And comes out through the left side of the frame and another bearing.

 

FTX522.jpg.f1aeff47917c0573c393c89c40206cdc.jpg

 

 

A chain and a couple of sprockets will give me drive into the transfer box :D

 

FTX523.jpg.d546b129783df01be8a2439f8adef601.jpg

 

 

As you can see I have some metalwork to do to hold everything in the right place.. Space is tight but shafts and UJ's turn as the should without hitting anything or feeling "notchy" which proves the concept of it will all work :D

 

And onwards with the story, another slight change of plan coming up shortly..

 

The outter bearing needs something strong to bolt on to, so I dug out a bit of 8mm plate and set to on the lathe.

 

FTX527.jpg.e0682d2676852d5a493fd6323624a672.jpg

 

FTX526.jpg.ed6aff01adbfb86dfef903816b2c9a27.jpg

 

 

It will fit somewhere here, to make life more interesting the plate needs to be removable or I won't be able to get the transfer box back out the frame!

 

FTX528.jpg.b47b783cd34445d3f02d3d1e78dfcb5a.jpg

 

 

Before I started on the mountings I thought it would be wise to tidy up this bit of frame first.

 

FTX529.jpg.acf6f4f975bf2c30d7e18d191c57707f.jpg

 

 

Mostly chopped out..

 

FTX530.jpg.d275bc515598833490565f16fbbfca9c.jpg

 

 

That looks better.1f44d.png

 

FTX531.jpg.15f55a9b10101c6ea8422a6e129eada3.jpg

 

 

Plate and bearing set back in the frame a tad, it fit's rather well..

 

FTX532.jpg.51fa33d1d04e9b26c250d19011600271.jpg

 

 

Plenty of UJ clearance by the transfer box.

 

FTX534.jpg.de7a46a69d01052f58caa59eed9ab645.jpg

 

 

Before I can start mounting the plate I need to make sure both shafts are parallel to each other..

 

FTX533.jpg.8dacee0bec58d85eb1def1fe4b638bc1.jpg

 

 

Here's the jig thingy I make to keep the shafts parallel. It doesn't lok that much but both the tubes are a nice snuff fit on the shafts they have to fit on.

A lot of time was spent making sure both tubes are parallel to each other.. Trim, measure, trim, measure, trim, measure.. Weld measure, weld a bit more, measure.. You get the picture.

 

FTX535.jpg.63c793bbdee07e62f29f4307a4bf13a7.jpg

 

 

Fitted.. The shafts are now parallel to each so I can start working out how to mount the bearing plate.

 

FTX536.jpg.7bdaaefa4a20679bf88d55f230dfbef8.jpg

 

 

Out of interest I put the foot rest/guard thingy on to check it still fitted...  Not bad, I will only have to loose a small amount of foot space to fit a sprocket with guard of course.

 

FTX538.jpg.32c3497c6e304407624ef6d46f985db2.jpg

 

FTX539.jpg.77beb3fbd114f9f83f7d3f66b79937ac.jpg

 

 

It was roughly at this point that a couple of comments left on Farcebook had me thinking about how safe the right turn UJ set-up actually would be.. Tight UJ angles and high spinning speeds are not the best mix!

 

Sooooooo.....

 

I started on the exhaust instead :lol::D

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Stigian

There was no way the exhaust system I had built would fit back on with a transfer box and a dive shaft in the way, the only part that fits is the big bore pipe that runs down the side of the engine through the frame!

 

So a bit of a re-make is needed, I started at the front after slicing off the bits that fit into the engine..

The only tube I have enoug of is a bit bigger than I had been using, so how to go from something small to the bigger blue bit size!

 

FTX543.jpg.e0919b89d2781c5d34c0431cde1d6e8c.jpg

 

 

Find a bit of tube that's slightly bigger than the small bit but slightly smaller than the big blue bit and make four long-ish cuts in it.

 

FTX544.jpg.9b3ea3ff3a043fadec5af3b281093ab4.jpg

 

 

A hose clip squeezes it down to size.

 

FTX545.jpg.2bc850f78e348d000bc697e48a5b425f.jpg

 

 

Welded on and extra tube trimmed off.

 

FTX546.jpg.10015461bf2d05937bc32ec90ff82091.jpg

 

 

Welds cleaned back.

 

FTX547.jpg.35b43a5a710beaa69078666d68d8131d.jpg

 

 

A bit of hammer work soon had the other end a bit wider.

 

FTX548.jpg.05be3f43b79a8893a8721e1493d42d8e.jpg

 

 

Welded on to the big bore pipe.

 

FTX549.jpg.99a3042b3b22d8cf837d95ace7031818.jpg

 

 

Lot's of careful welding later had the gaps filled up.

 

FTX550.jpg.9e4e0f7ba2825028c30587e987e0c537.jpg

 

 

Test fitted to the engine, one side cleaned up.

 

FTX551.jpg.838f21ce2c43c918a60d9862099d3f54.jpg

 

FTX552.jpg.ad2d57ae15eddead74aecc7d4bd85a0d.jpg

 

 

Oh... the slight change of plan...

 

With the UJ's etc removed I found there is just enough space to fit this er... final drive? 90'd drive thingy from the very same Honda Silverwing that gave it's engine up for Why Not all those years ago!

 

FTX540.jpg.c0af9d10bf38ad2bc207f7302290d744.jpg

 

 

I will need to fit a chain n sprocket to get the power from the bike gearbox into the 90'd drive thingy which has a 5 to 1 ratio (I can "gear" that ratio out), and yes it will spin the right way :D:thumbs:

 

FTX541.jpg.0a14c131dc98199adbe46e9e7d55ea85.jpg

 

 

And to finish off a couple of photos of the unit I had taken to put it on Fleabay.. Quite glad I didn't get around to listing it :D

 

20171123_093729.jpg.cda307f3126b4a39f91bc5778cb5e606.jpg

 

20171123_093839.jpg.43506f6aa7d49fe7e26d2300bb9c7074.jpg

 

 

Having short stubby pipes sticking out the engine I needed to make them a bit longer and join together.

 

The first bend, Im going for a more agricultrual look with the exhaust system to make it stand out a bit from the swoops of the frame, so lots of pie cuts going on.

 

FTX553.jpg.3b4a54d7ef90c1e1bd2c00388494b075.jpg

 

 

Plenty of penetration which is good to see :thumbs:

 

FTX554.jpg.dacbec75c0650d96e5896abe54a41a91.jpg

 

 

The N/S pipe almost done. The long bit that goes across the frame was welded in place first the couple of bits of box were there just to keep it in the right place, below the radiator..

The rest was made up to fill the gap.

 

FTX555.jpg.da72948c0dff8ce8bb6c8daeb96edef0.jpg

 

 

Before doing the O/S pipe I needed to know how it was all going to fit into the main pipe which runs along the side of the engine..

 

FTX557.jpg.d2dccea1e6190364d3fd07f897f2649e.jpg

 

 

Sooooo, how to fit two of the smaller pipe into the bigger one!!

 

FTX556.jpg.135b9f40e1a7ccb5ef69dfc0aa6bf373.jpg

 

 

Some measuring and cutting later.. The pipes are over length as I knew I'd need to trim them just not quite sure where yet.

 

FTX558.jpg.1ff05309b9f89fa0945f0dcff31449b9.jpg

 

 

Welded up and slotted in place.

 

FTX560.jpg.13a93c147e8a5db22b51804ddc0c942b.jpg

 

 

And joined to the N/S pipe..

 

FTX561.jpg.6c0ee9bce578b2de2cd18fdb3c1bec0e.jpg

 

FTX562.jpg.cfae17354d875aa0a023a6602f77f5f7.jpg

 

Before you ask.. Yes the welding rubbish was cleaned from the inside of the pipe sticking out the engine before anything else was welded to it.. :thumbs:

 

These CX/GL 500 Honda engines only run at their best if both cylinder/header pipes are the same length each side...

The N/S pipe came in at 30 1/2 inches, so I had to try and fit that length into a rather small space on the O/S and still have good gas flow!!

 

A long bit of pipe with lots of pie cuts marked out..

 

FTX563.jpg.7c5cc0d89531802456052e479ae01e75.jpg

 

 

Can you see where I'm going with this? :D

 

FTX564.jpg.567386c70b59db5476bc870deb525cd1.jpg

 

 

A shorter bit of pipe..

 

FTX565.jpg.5a4bad136e2d02ba356376804a9a969c.jpg

 

 

Lot's of hollow metal pies..

 

FTX566.jpg.ccb824069961312597c35b9fc9f63d5a.jpg

 

 

And lots of blue power coating on my bench from cleaning the pies..

 

FTX567.jpg.d41f467fda196205cd61b1a37772c552.jpg

 

 

This bit of cardboard was used to work out some angles to cut, the metal version will fit about here.

 

FTX569.jpg.ee7c4fd377536a99c10118f45e101952.jpg

 

 

So I didn't end up welding up a bit hollow Polo mint I added a bit more cardboard to the mix.

 

FTX570.jpg.82edd2c879817499008118008e508822.jpg

 

 

As long as the loop follows the spiral it should not end up hitting it's self :lol::D

 

FTX571.jpg.81cc96889a67f7074a5f1f062cfa1260.jpg

 

 

A bit of lunch and lot's of welding later the result is some what curvy :D

 

FTX575.jpg.0fd1815ba0dcb74784295b35c2126cf6.jpg

 

FTX576.jpg.3d68043d408405f374389c76daa84b59.jpg

 

 

Some bit's could not be welded in situ so to make sure nothing could move during welding I added a couple of braces before taking the exhaust off.

 

FTX577.jpg.686b7ded0a732c25cb913c58816be671.jpg

 

 

Fully welded up, just a lot of welds to grind down.. Funky shape eh? :D:lol:

 

FTX578.jpg.18e80af034602880d6457bf2e2954fa1.jpg

 

FTX579.jpg.b621d573ec0e665620c6e797e73b8310.jpg

 

 

With the exhaust bolted back on..

 

FTX580.jpg.bf37a0ba9549daac015846f951a3156c.jpg

 

 

I could start on the next part of the puzzle, the rear exhaust section..

It's going to be interesting trying to join these cans..

 

FTX581.jpg.b8738fe7b089215d9ccc0b56ba0da0d0.jpg

 

 

To the bit of big bore pipe you can see below the tank in the triangular bit of frame..

 

FTX582.jpg.2e3ab907e46dc01db69c3700fa5e2ddd.jpg

 

 

As someone has put a transfer box right in the way and there isn't really enough space between the TB linkage arms and the frame..

 

Yep, it's going to be interesting for sure :D

 

FTX583.jpg.5bf31abb0fc6a3aee1ec655ae691f152.jpg

 

 

The solution to joing the two bit's of pipe together was this ear trumpet shaped bit of pipe.

 

FTX595.jpg.750a2e0c2f79d97d5e54e18de7d7030b.jpg

 

FTX596.jpg.a8b46ae46e17a04597697d96a83351a0.jpg

 

 

It's a tight fit around the transfer box, a very thick ally heat shield will be going between the exhaust and the black electrical gizmo with the word up, upside down.. Don't want to melt it!

 

FTX598.jpg.43e0f37b4c5b507615d2262f6807c350.jpg

 

 

Apart from grinding down lot's of welds that's the exhaust system done :thumbs:

 

FTX597.jpg.e2704805c2c904adbcd54983b42f5949.jpg

 

FTX599.jpg.569bf50e8708b133e251b46a65ba1679.jpg

 

 

Next on the hit list to sort is the shifter for the transfer box..

 

FTX600.jpg.d17e95b7230908ca13363e45effd0570.jpg

 

 

It needs to go somewhere around here, also the bracket looks really ugly so a new one is being made..

 

FTX601.jpg.7eb237c9b3004c6cdb0c77053ad6c5c0.jpg

 

 

The fun bit is going to be making the rods that connect it to the transfer box, but luck might be on my side as I found an easy route through the frame, above the carbs that will require minimal bends to the rods..

Oh, a scrap pile raid produced all the rods I could need :D

 

FTX602.jpg.95bfbc89e0ff0880ceb2c35617ae4476.jpg

 

  • Excellent 1

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