Newbie with 414-8 questions

[gmcarlmrnet 16]

I just bought a 414-8 and it needs a little work.  I have been able to download the parts and operating manual for the tractor model (31-14K804) and the snow blower model 06-42ST07.  I have found the parts downloads for the front mower carrier 07-01mC03 and the 42 inch mower 15-42SC01.  I cannot find the operating/service manuals for the front mower carrier and mower.  Just trying to get everything on paper before I start tackling the clean up and repair.  

 

Am very impressed with this site.  Didn't know it existed until a few weeks ago and it was part of the reason I felt ok about buying this tractor to fix up.

 

Gary

[AMC RULES 36,941]

[SylvanLakeWH 24,084]

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478]

A slightly earlier front carrier manual that should work for you

A later mower operator manual that should work

Garry

[gmcarlmrnet 16]

Thanks for the quick help.

 

I would like to see if my mower works but a hanging rod is broken on the mower carrier.  It will seem more nimble to have the mower underbelly anyways.  Am I missing something as to why this is preferentially used out front with the carrier?

 

Below a quick picture.  Some scattered areas of rust on the body and wheels.  Starts after 5 seconds and sounds good.  I took off the 6 back weights already for the summer.  It almost did a wheelie when I put it into 6th gear the first time I test drove it.

[roadapples 6,981]

       

[Road-Track 39]

 to  A front mower is a rare implement! Usually used to mow without front tire grass knock down stripes. 

 

I also like the grader attachment!

[Racinbob 10,256]

Nice looking tractor and you certainly did come to the right place to get help. A bunch of great folks here chomping at the bit to share their knowledge.

[gmcarlmrnet 16]

Have spent the last few hours putzing with the tractor.    Instead of taking off the mower from the carrier to test the pto I thought I would try hitching up the snowblower.  Thought I could have the belly grader on at the same time but apparently not.  I don't want to wear out my welcome on my first day but could somebody explain how to unhitch the belly blade correctly.  I think I have figured out the back.  The first two pictures show that.  just undo the cotter pin and rotate the u shaped holders and the back bar falls out and the whole back falls down as a unit.  The last picture orientation--the blade is on the front/bottom.  Their are two cotter pins holding  the front of the unit on.  Either one will separate the blade from the tractor but not sure what has to be left on for the mower deck or snowblower.  Thanks

[can whlvr 991]

take off the bar from the mower lift arm,this is the lift bar bar for the blade,and ondo the rear levers till the blade falls out of the rear bracket,leave the rear hitch on,it wont be in the way of anything,the mower lift bar stays for mowing of coarse or you wouldn't be able to lift the deck,i take that off for snow thrower and plow,but it can be wired up out of the way,as the thrower uses a different arm on the bell crank as the mower or grader blade,its very simple to remove the grader,and you cant ask too many questions,thats why theres thousands of members

[JC 1965 1,528]

Hello and   

[gmcarlmrnet 16]

Thanks can whlvr.  Blade off and I am including picture.  As a newbie I didn't understand what was part of the tractor and what was part of the blade.

 

A few surprises yesterday.  Attached the snowblower and it seemed to cant to the right (view from sitting in the drivers seat) at the attach a magic hitch.  Pictures included.  It is bent a little where the hitch attaches to the tractor.  more importantly the U-shaped holder on the left side (that holds the horizontal shaft from the snowblower attach) is bent open some.  On the left it measures 21 mm and on the right  16 mm so it doesn't fit snugly and the snowblower rotates to the right as it "opens".  I gently  took my hammer to it but didn't seem to budge it though I wasn't very aggressive.  I don't know a lot about metal/fatigue or how to fix this.  Don't have welding or heating up skills.  Could take it to a shop or a new one is about $50+, or do I just get more aggressive with my big mallet hammer.   Any suggestions?

 

Lastly, the other two pictures are of a piece that came with that I don't really know what it does or where it goes?  Possibly part of the mower connection?

 

Thanks for any help.

 

Gary

 

 

[wallfish 15,905]

 

It's probably easiest to remove that front Tach A Matic and use a hammer with some force to make it straight and square again.

The connection link in the pics looks like a solid lift link for a snow/dozer blade. It allows you to apply down force to the blade by pushing on the lift handle.

[gmcarlmrnet 16]

Took a hammer to it but I could not get it to bend despite some pretty hard slugs so bought a used one on eBay for $20.  I suspect if I could have heated it I could have bent it back.

 

Today I took off the seat and other pieces to look at the innards and clean it out.  I have two small issues

 

1) the fuel line path doesn't seem right to me.  It crosses under the brake bar and gets pinched a little when I set the parking brake (first picture) and then sags under and is tied to the clutch bar with a zip tie.  You can see an inline filter in--not sure that is supposed to be there but probably not doing any damage.  As I look at it seems like it should go thru the gear shift box out the hole then proceed forward to the engine.

 

2) I was adjusting the brake as they recommended but if I tighten it to make it so the tires don't turn when the parking break on the brake rubs when it is off.  If I loosen it so not rubbing with the parking break on I can push the tractor (just rubs). I suspect the brake pads are a little out of round/old and will probably just have to keep it loose.

 

Have enjoyed seeing how things work.  Next order of business is to focus on the carb.

 

Gary

 

 

[can whlvr 991]

that is not how the fuel line runs,if you take the cover off where the gear shift goes through,you will see a hole that passes through the hood stand,under the battery and then goes left to the carb,you might need a new brake shoe,the brakes arnt as good as they could be,they do work but don't compare them to automotive brakes

[gmcarlmrnet 16]

Thanks Can whlvr, I thought that was where it was to go.

 

Yes, suspect new brake shoes would probably do the trick though I see they are $84 so may decide just to have less parking brake capability as when I ran it before it did brake just fine (never really tested the parking brake though)

 

Appreciate your quick response.

 

Last question, as I reviewed parts and such for a carb rebuild they  said "call us" and I haven't been able to nail down a specific carb rebuild kit.    Is there a specific carb rebuild kit for my 1989 toro 31-14k804?

 

Gary

 

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478]

Carb manual

Get the engine serial number off the data decal to identify the carb in the front of the manual. With that you can find the carb kits is Section 3.

 

Garry

[gmcarlmrnet 16]

Really appreciate the help but here is a picture of my data decal on my motor shroud.  It is completely blank--as if somebody polished the tag.This tag was right below my carb on the engine shroud so I think I am looking in the right place.  Do I have any other options to find out what motor I have?

 

Gary

[608KEB 794]

I'd put the front attachamatic in a press

Edited June 14, 2016 by 608KEB

[gmcarlmrnet 16]

so I did a little searching and found this post from November 1 2013

 

31-14K804 is a 1989 414-8

35323 is the tractor's serial number

9257 is the Julian build date - 257th day of 1989 - Thursday September 14, 1989

The Kohler serial numbers in 1989 were 10 digits so should be 19xx110353. A tractor built that late in the year should have a 1989 engine.

 

The owner manual does not show the M14 but the service manual does.

http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/serieslanding.htm?series=Magnum

 

Garry

 

 

 

my serial number is 35399 and Julian date 9258 so it was built the day after the above.  I will try to contact the gentleman who posted this as maybe he can tell me what carb he has as I probably can assume ours are the same 

 

Gary

 

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478]

The 17xxxxxxxx Kohler serial numbers are 1987 production and 18xxxxxxxx are 1988 production.

The "Carburetor kits" in section 1 of the manual include a carburetor and misc. parts.

The repair kits are in section 3.

 

From what I can see you should have a Walbro carb and the carb part number should be on the mounting flange where it bolts to the engine. That would be the number you use in section 3.

 

This should be the full engine parts list

https://www.partstree.com/parts/kohler-engines/engines-horizontal/m14-601540-kohler-m14-engine-magnum-wheel-horse-14hp-10-5kw-specs-601500-601557/

 

Hope I'm correct.

 

Garry

[953 nut 51,486]

12 hours ago, gmcarlmrnet said:

brake shoes would probably do the trick though I see they are $84

     @rmaynard sells the brake shoes for about $20 plus shipping.

 

[gmcarlmrnet 16]

Thanks for everyone's help.  While searching for the right carb rebuild kit at our local Napa store I got a new spark plug put it in and came home and sprayed the out side linkage and outside carb and it now starts up immediately.