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Furious

Tiller

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Furious

Just picked this tiller up for $100. I have a 1277 and might be picking up a '68 Electro 12 as well and would like to hook the tiller up. Unfortunately all I have is the tiller. Anyone know what other parts I'll need and where to get them (or how build them)?  Thanks. 

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daveoman1966

You will need a few things..... Rear Axle Bracket, Mid-mount Idler Pulley bracket, Drive belt, Rear Lift Cable ...at least 

The model years of your tractors 67 - 68 takes a tiller with different (shorter) front hitch on it.  I'm sure you can make this work out, but there MAY be some limited mods needed....either to your tractors REAR  receiver hitch or the front of this tiller.    Here is the rear axle bracket to match to this tiller.  This bracket should bolt to your tractor's rear axle to hook up the tiller.  I have this bracket (PIC 2) for sale ..pic here.  I just recently sold the last idler pulley bracket (pic 1) showN here too.

You could make a different Mid-mount idler setup, as in the 3rd & 4th & 5TH pic. 

Here are also the 2 different tiller front hitches.....last 2 pics

Older tillers / tractors used drive belt # 1599.  Later model years drive belt is # 110265.  You will PROBABLY need # 110265, but can't be sure.           

IDLER (1).JPG

REAR AX- (9).jpg

11.jpg

10.jpg

12.jpg

TILL A.jpg

TILL B.jpg

Edited by daveoman1966
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Furious

Thanks for the reply.  Really great info.  I have the rear axle bracket, would just need the idler pulley setup to hook it up via the PTO.  Do you have any experience with the double belt setup?  I don't have a double pulley or any of the other parts, but it seems like it would be a better setup and safer since I don't have the belt cover to go over the belt from the PTO to the tiller.  Thanks again.

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daveoman1966

I have never used a double-belt arrangement, nor did I ever see a need to.  What's more, I never had a belt slip off either.  For parts, I have the 12" long 3/4 dia THREADED shaft to use in the idler pulley.  I use to make and sell the idler pulley setup on ebay, but no longer do...thus the left-over shafts. You can get the 2 pulleys at a a hardware store or STENS has them too.  the 2" dia small one is part # 280-032 ($10) and the 4 1/4" dia is part # 280-750 ($20) .  Those are prices from 2 years ago....

 

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Racinbob
14 hours ago, Furious said:

Thanks for the reply.  Really great info.  I have the rear axle bracket, would just need the idler pulley setup to hook it up via the PTO.  Do you have any experience with the double belt setup?  I don't have a double pulley or any of the other parts, but it seems like it would be a better setup and safer since I don't have the belt cover to go over the belt from the PTO to the tiller.  Thanks again.

With the double pulley set-up you had to have a belt guard to cover the pulley. With the later single pulley the belt went under the tractor and no additional cover was needed. For years I used the older style pulley but put the newer single pulley drive on it. The old style has a different axle bracket that had an idler pulley on it instead of the bracket on the tiller. Worked great, :)

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mabsoon

Thanks for his info. I feel more confident about getting my tiller attached and running now. I have the tiller, two brackets, one on the C-160 It came with and another that was loose. The one on the C-160 seems to be the one I need for the tiller as it is narrower. The loose bracket (not currently attached) is wider.

 

i have the idle pulley but not the spring. Suggestions on part mum ever and where I can get the spring? And I think I will be using there 110265 belt, again where to get?

otherwise I think I am ready to go, oh after I put the AG tires back on!!!

Insert noise from Tim the toolman Taylor here.

 

oh yeah, lift cable?

image.jpeg

Edited by mabsoon

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daveoman1966

For the belt, google this:  TORO 110265   Find a good price and get it.  The spring is about 3" long and 1/2 or so diameter. 

The belt can be had at Amazon for about $65.  Just search on TORO 110265

 

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312Hydro

You can get the spring from your local toro dealer or Partstree. The factory spring does work the best and it should be under $6.

Edited by 312Hydro
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mabsoon

Thanks guys, I guess the next question is where does the spring connect?

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312Hydro

It connects to a bolt that you put in the frame and depends on which pulley mid mount you use. The older style pulls back so the spring pulls to the rear, newer style to the front.The first picture that Dave shows is the older style. They all work the same,just a different approach .If you do a search on the forum you will find many solutions to building one. Here's mine-

 

Edited by 312Hydro

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mabsoon

I found the spring in the parts bucket, I have an idler Lully that looks like the one Dave uploaded with the white pulleys (the first pic) and I see the second pic with it another version mounted in a reactor. So mine is spring back. Will just have to figure out where the hole is. At Menards since the battery that's on the 520H seems to be wearing out. Trickle charged it a month ago and it's dead again.

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312Hydro

It attaches to a bolt that goes in the hole right before the footrest. First pic in this thread will show you.

 

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mabsoon

Took me a moment to figure out what you did there but thanks I see it now :)

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mabsoon

My pulleys are pretty much the reverse the larger pulley is on the main shaft the smaller one pointing back then the moment arm is pouting down, so the. The spring should go forward. I have two hole in frame to front and one is in a perfect position for the spring.

I also have found, I do have the rock shaft thanks to wheelhirseman1000. His pick on his vendor page shows me the things I would need. I have a cable end going forward from my hydro that looks like it goes into the hydro, but it does not reach the bracket which moves when the deck lift bracket goes up and down (I lower or lift the hydro lever). Can't figure out how to connect or move his cable.

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mabsoon

UPDATE! 

I took the fender/seat assembly off to access the area under it to clear out some grass and dirt. I was able to free up the cable this way, thereby lifting the tiller. The one thing holding me back from putting the belt on (except the spring bolt issue) and getting it running.

 

Just got done with half the second pass of the garden.

 

The belt came off and now it won't stay on. This also after the chain replacement (a turn-buckle) that lifts the tiller came loose and I was dragging it. Might need to completely turn the turn-buckle to its shortest position which is how I started. I lengthened it to try to get deeper. This may be causing the belt to come off.

 

At the beginning, I hooked the spring to the rod that holds the front of the foot rest. There is only one bolt hole near the foot rest and the screw in it holds the belt guard.

 

I will probably get a matching size bolt but longer and use a double nut to hold the gaurd in place so I have somewhere to hold the spring. I will have to get a shorter spring as the hole is not as far as my spring is long.

 

Suffice to say, spring bolt, lift turn-buckle and maybe even idle pulley/PTO pulley alignment may be the culprit.

Edited by mabsoon

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