Jump to content
kcuttuck

C121 will not crank

Recommended Posts

kcuttuck

My 1978 C121 will not start. It will not crank over. The voltage at the battery post on the key switch is 12.3 volts. When I turn the key to the run position the voltage at the battery post on the key switch drops off.

 

I tested the clutch switch. good

Replaced the key switch.

Seat switch is bypassed. 

 

I am suspecting the PTO interlock switch but I have no idea how it works and how to test it. I am very mechanically inclined but I have never seen a switch like that before. 

 

Help Please.

 

Matt

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut

Voltage dropping off is an indication of bad connections. Before you start replacing anything, clean and tighten all electrical connections. If the problem remains you can take a small jumper wire from the battery positive to the small terminal on the solenoid which should actuate the solenoid and starter. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
kcuttuck

I replaced the wire connectors for the key switch. What other connections do you suggest I clean?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut
6 minutes ago, kcuttuck said:

What other connections do you suggest I clean?

All of them! The battery cables (+ & -) at both ends and the cable from the solenoid to the starter. Any corroded or loose connection anyplace in the electrical circuit will result in voltage drop.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oldredrider

The C-121 is a cradle motor and has an extra ground wire on the cradle. Make sure it is connected well.  I've seen vibration of the motor take a toll on them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
kcuttuck

I found a bad amp meter. It showed power though it till there was a draw. 

 

Thanks for the help.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca

You can bypass the ammeter by placing both wires on the same terminal. Disconnect the negative battery cable before you do to prevent an accidental short.

 

A more economical repair is to replace the ammeter with a voltmeter and it will give you more useful information. A voltmeter needs to be powered by the ignition circuit plus a simple ground to the chassis.

 

Garry

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • Little Red Horse
      By Little Red Horse
      Hey all. I have a Electro 12 with a factory belly blade. It runs* and drives. I had used it to grade my driveway the last 6 yrs. Having moved I'm looking at my options on storing it or selling it. Frankly I have no idea what it is worth. I watched "ISaveTractors" video on 5 things to do with a new to you wheel horse/12hp kohler. (When i got it 6yrs ago) And went thru and did the adjustments and replaced the parts mentioned. It has been a good strong tractor for me until around July of this year. (2023)
      *Around July it started dying after running 20-30min. I replaced the carb (Chinese Amazon purchase) with one from isavetractors web site. That seemed to help it idle smoother(the old carbs jets wouldnt adjust), but it still dies at around 20-30min.
      So I've got 2 questions. 
      1. What is it worth? (As-Is) and
      2. What do I need to do to fix it? 
      Thanks yall!

    • 850ford
      By 850ford
      I am looking for a replacement Kohler for a 1980 c165,it is cradle mounted.
      Will a standard mount Kohler work, if I remove the cradle?
       I am located in Massachusetts 
        Thanks
    • BrianStasC-101
      By BrianStasC-101
      Hello all. I am looking for suggestions on adapting the pto from my C series tractor to a harbor freight predator 420 13hp engine. I know the predator motors are a controversial topic however it is the route I have chosen for this particular machine. The intent was to mostly use it for plowing so no PTO required but it would be handy to have. Looking to hear from someone that has successfully done the swap that may offer any advice before I attempt to transfer it over. Just looking for any general pointers that will help me along the way to make it go as smoothly as possible. 
    • PWL216
      By PWL216
      About a year ago I bought a C-121 auto with the intention of using it as my go-to mower. Shortly thereafter I got a great deal on a low hour 314-8.  It ran perfect and had several attachments - it became my new go-to mower.  So, I decided to repurpose the 121 to be a front end loader. After purchasing the build plans from P.F Engineering (which are excellent), I realized I couldn’t build it for less than $2k in material. I decided to look for a used one and found a Thompson TC10 local to me, mounted on an “end of life” 1077, for $1,000.  The loader swap itself was pretty straight forward. The only modifications needed were drilling a couple of mounting holes in the tractor frame, grinding away a little of the loader top frame so the hood opened/closed and welding in a new hydraulic pump mount. I have a few things to button up still and the bucket itself needs attention but it’s fully functional. I also bought a pair of clamp-on pallet forks.
       
      I also did a “refresh” of the 121. The total project cost is shown below. Roughly $2,300, with just the FEL itself being around $1,300. 
       
      Tractor
      C-121 Auto $500
      Solid engine mounts $50

      Front End Loader
      Johnson 10TC $1,000
      Hydraulic fluid $35
      Spare hydraulic hose $40

      Ignition
      Battery $35
      Battery cables $20
      Points & Condenser $20

      Fuel
      Carb & Gasket $65
      Electric fuel pump $60 (later removed)
      Air filter $10
      Fuel filter $15
      Fuel line $10
      Spark plug $5

      Decals and Paint
      Decals $115
      Paint $30

      Lights
      Headlight Lens $45
      LED Headlights $25
      Rear lights $25

      Misc $200



    • Tenday
      By Tenday
      Experts - help please. I’m new to Wheel Horse Tractor life! 
       
      So - I’ve pulled out an inherited tractor and have decided to resurrect her. Unfortunately, no spark :/ 
       
      I’m looking for help on diagnosing no spark. 
       
      model - 417-8 
      engine - Kohler KT17
       
      Done thus far:  (aware that some have no implication on spark.) 
       
      - new ignition switch 
      - new battery 
      - new starter
      - new ignition coil and wires w/ plugs 
      - new condenser 
      - new points 
      - new starter solenoid 
      - bypassed all switches except oil and seat. 

      notes:

      idiot lights removed. 
       
      All fuses tested with Ohms as well as visual inspection  .. 
       
      coil tested w/ ohms as well
       
      all switches bypassed except: 
      -oil switch  ( don’t think it has any implications other than a visual indication for idiot lights. ) 
      -seat switch 
       
      ran a pos from batt direct to pos of coil - nothing; no spark. 
       
       
      Electric is as follows:  
       
      - Starter switch wired to solenoid
      - - solenoid to starter 
      - - solenoid to batt
       
      - one wire from starter switch goes to engine ( I think this is for batt charge / flywheel) 
       
      - I have two yellow wires, which are married up, that go to engine which have constant power; They power coil.  Comes from switch and seat. 

       
       
       
      Help - what the heck am I missing ? 
       
       
       
       
       
       
       
×
×
  • Create New...