Jump to content
Tuneup

Good Time to Post my Progress

Recommended Posts

 
elcamino/wheelhorse

Looking good. Keep us updated on the progress.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
bds1984

I had the same thoughts when I was working on my C165 refresh last year.  Trust me, it'll be worth it in the end!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
tunahead72

Very nice. :thumbs:

 

Just curious...  If I'm seeing your photos correctly, it looks like you've been experimenting with your exhaust system a bit.  What kind of muffler is on it now, and how does it compare to the original?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
AMC RULES

Great job so far.  :handgestures-thumbsup:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Tuneup

Thanks, guys! Yes, the wife would rather I dabble in this than locate some old car for restoration. Less $$. She won't think so when it's time to order the tires, though.

 

That original nelson muffler was in pieces so I had one made by a lister and it's very good but doesn't clear the low hanging branches in the yard. Picked-up the one shown at Ace Hardware down here - just the standard item and it's quiet enough. May go back to the mini stack just because it's so unique.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Thor27

Looks great so far!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
JC 1965

Lookin great, keep the pics coming.    :thumbs2:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Racinbob

Looking great. Can't wait to see her finished. :handgestures-thumbupright:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Tuneup

So, since several wanted to see more...bending over this machine has my back saying NO for a few days so...

 

I have an order at Jack's that is being held for a single part - hate that. The springs on this were shot so the brake, clutch and emer-brake springs are in the order. The drive belt is a little long for the linkage so I ordered another for comparison. Next are the the Tach-Matic, dash and seat pan for paint and installation.

 

Blessed eBay found me a replacement PTO rod after I snapped the adjustment on the original. The clutch rod tried to do the same but a soaking in my cleaner fluid overnight budged it (gas - kero - mineral spirits). The front rims and tires from eBay as the originals were a no match. These are perfect and need only paint. The tires are actually OK for use! Steering wheel held on by a screwdriver so I can get her out in the sun to bake and before finishing the dash. That wheel pin was a bi$#% ! Decal kits are the bomb!

 

Two questions for y'all:

Is there any normal way to route the fuel hose? The former owner, red of neck here in Georgia, took a too-large diameter line and just threw it on the machine. I am thinking under frame but would like to know the original route if anyone knows.

Second. I attached the battery ground to the end of the regulator bracket to the left of the solenoid. It's the bolt that is shared as the top attachment for the drive belt cover - close to the regulator for a clean ground. Where was the original attached? I think there but it's been too long and I took no starting pictures. My bad.

 

IMG_0318.JPG

IMG_0319.JPG

IMG_0320.JPG

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Tuneup

Jacks delivered today so all the springs are in. The belt was significantly shorter which is good. Off came the covers and plenty of adjustments made so now I have working pedals! I don't like the original ampere gauge - jumpy and nearly trashed. I'll use the old SW amp and Volts gauges I saved from my long lost Olds. Finishing the wiring tomorrow. Sweet machine.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
c-series don

The fuel line goes to the left of the trans dipstick then to the right of the shifters. Then through the large rubber grommet under the shifter plate, then to the right of the steering shaft. This is where I usually cut in an inline filter, before the engine block. It's not factory but it's a good spot out of the way and looks factory.Kind of where the battery was on the older C-series.The line then goes under the flywheel shroud to the fuel pump. I will go look at my unmolested C-165 Auto to see where the ground wire goes. I really appreciate your attention to detail and keeping it factory. That's how I have to do it!!! Keep up the good work! 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Tuneup

Thanks! 7 feet of fresh line for tomorrow. Through the grommet - got it. Looking forward to hearing more, thanks again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
c-series don

As far as your ground wire goes, on my C-165 with the battery posts away from you and the negative on the left, the wire goes from the post to the top bolt that holds on the plate that the voltage regulator is bolted to. However on what I believe is all original, my C-161 it goes right hand post to the bolt that holds the hood support to the dash tower. It almost seems like the guy on the assembly line put it where he wanted! Hope I didn't confuse you!! 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Tuneup

Nope, it's all good, thanks. Finally got to put fuel in her and the valve promptly leaked. Never did that before so, another part to purchase. Since the wiring is done, fired it up and ran like junk - I had the capacitor hanging - not grounded. Fixed that and rode it side saddle around the yard, showing it off a bit. Good feeling. Lots of sanding for the pan and a seat to buy so in a week it's time to work the deck. The hood needs some straightening and I'm not looking forward to it. Dash needs the highlighting done on the lettering - hesitating.

IMG_0321.jpg

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
c-series don

Lovin' those gauges! I painted my dash with one of those silver paint pens. A fine tipped one works best. Then one day I got the brilliant idea to clean the dash with WD-40 and it smeared all over! So I would not recommend that cleaning method. Prior to the WD it looked great. Keep up the good work! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Tuneup

Thanks! I had a full SW Stage III set in my Olds and knew they'd be handy someday, if it took 25 years. I found a cheap mini roller with a sponge nap that just might finish that dash - or ruin it. We shall see

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
Tuneup

A big thank you to the list! Someone mentioned RuGlide at NAPA. I'm pretty cheap - will not spend if I can find another way - so always used soapy water to mount tires. Plenty of frustration and many motorcycle tires over the years which can be a bear. I sprung for a bottle of RuGlide, applied it liberally with a brush and mounted the fronts on the newly painted (Krylon Antique White) rims in just a minute or two. I used the old milk bottle shards to protect the rims from scratches. That stuff is slick as snot. Sweetness - thank you!

 

On to mounting the 10.5 Ags next Monday or Tuesday if I can get the wheels completed - too blasted humid out there today to continue. Mule drive painted, pulleys on order. Deck wheels as well. Happy weekend!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
AMC RULES

:text-yeahthat:  Put some in an old Windex bottle...

and spritz 'em down a couple times during the year. 

Really helps keep the ol' dry rot away too.    :handgestures-thumbsup:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Tuneup

Yup - just need a spare bottle. Anyone have any ideas on what to use out there as a hub cap? 103565 no longer available.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
c-series don

Tell me about this milk bottle trick you speak of? Please, thank you ! Anti-scratching ? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
doc724

Spare hub cap?  I assume you are talking about the front hubs?  Glen Pettit in the RS vendors section sells replica ones. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Tuneup

Glen, what again? I've already sent him $$ twice :)

 

The anti-scratch milk carton use was told me in the motorcycle days so that the aluminum rims weren't scratched. Take the usual plastic milk carton and cut strips. Thin plastic but durable - they tuck nicely behind the rim for the irons. I found that using RuGlide made it more difficult to use the plastic. Kept slipping. Had the boys drinking milk until the bottle emptied.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Tuneup

The 10.5 Deerstones went on easily enough with that RuGlide. No damage to the rims. The Krylon XXX antique white looks great and hardened much faster than the Rust Oleum Regal Red. Mounted the first and found that they fit with almost no adjustment to the hubs. I had moved them out a 1/2" based on the 9.6" claim of width but miscalculated - moved them back almost all the way. Very nice. Hopped on and fired her up. She ran for 5 minutes and died. Coil from NAPA with about 2 hours on it went south - primary open. Shame they don't warrant those things. Have another and she's back in form.  Now, to tackle that bent hood. I'll post a pic or two when the sun gets higher.

 

Question: What can be used as a foot rest material? The replacements are ridiculously expensive. I had thought of some thin diamond plate that Home Depot sells but would rather have something with traction and more like the original. There's got to be some tread somewhere. Little help?

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • Tuneup
      By Tuneup
      Hi all,
      Summary: Solid mounts a year ago were very nice. Removed balance gears last December. Unacceptable. Installed eBay originals in good condition. I can ride it again at full throttle AND keep my fillings.
       
      Long story (I have the day off):
      A thread inspired me last December to look and see if my balance gears were doing well and the rear one was a wobbler. Removed them. She was burning too much oil - original rebuild was just a stone hone and power was not as it should be - it took months to get it bored .020. Hard to find in GA. Installed everything and started her up. Solid mounts USED to be great! That old off-idle vibration that shook the hood was gone thanks to those mounts. A little more vibration was OK. After the removal of the balance gears - NOT! The thing makes my butt numb and I can't mow at higher than about 2500 RPM. The hood vibrates just too much.
      Decided to shop Flea Bay for some used, but OK, mounts. Toro prices are . . . the usual Toro prices. Mine were shot and tossed in the bin. Easily installed, right?
       
      I thought in my ignorance that I could just remove a solid mount one at a time and pop-in the originals. Heck, the mount rubber has to be pressed in! Who knew? My old ones weren't like this at the restoration years ago.
       
      Delayed while I figured how to pull the engine on my own. I used to just throw it up on the bench but I've grown more cautious. No buds around in the AM for assistance. Tied some 10 gauge wire around a 2x3. Put one end on the table saw and lifting was easy. Still have to lift the weight but no bending and it was going on the floor. Dead lift at knee level. Pulled the 2x3 across the table to extend the engine to the side of the tractor and let her down slowly.
       

       
      Engine bay still pretty clean and the engine oil was due for its 1 hour drop after the rebuild anyway. Looked fine.
       

       
      How to get those mounts in? Tried a C clamp and a socket as a spacer - too clumsy. Greased them up nicely and got longer bolts - tightening them a bit at a time and nudging the mounts into the hole with a blunt object. Turned out not to be a bother!
       

       

       
      I've learned not to throw things away. It always seems that you need something the day after it's in the garbage truck. I still had the grounding lead and the large mount washers.
       
      The wife assisted in the re-installation. Kinda' freaked her out. Back in place, and I got to clean the lower engine area from that minor oil leak around the fuel pump. Attracted grass clippings like a magnet.
       

       

       
      A few bulb squeezes to start her up and, glorious! No more teeth chattering and I can take her up to 3600 if I like - sounds wonderful and she tore through the deep, deep crab grass. Don't discount those mounts. Sure, that off idle vibration is back and stronger than before. Nothing like a fresh bore for power. Something to spend time on tomorrow.
       
      Now, what to do with these?
       

       
       
    • Tuneup
      By Tuneup
      So gang, it's Christmas time and my company has extended its forced vacation to two weeks, sucking 7 days of FTO from me. I've got all kinds of things to do for the wifey-poo but what the heck can I do for me?
      I've got two K301s so may as well get out the surgical tools and do a b-gearectomy. The C-125 goes first. Restored that back in '17 and so she's got maybe 75 hours on her. It'll be rather painless and the youngster is visiting so can assist in getting that b-itch up onto the bench. She's already been moved to the garage and the old Kawi and its carb parts moved back to the shed while I search for tiny o-rings. Wish me luck and pics to come. Oh, there is no rattle BUT she's always had a minor knock I chalk-up to excessive end play (didn't measure it back then 'cause I'm bad but, dang!, will now).
    • Jeff-C175
      By Jeff-C175
      I put together a replacement for the missing clutch handle today.  I like it so much I'm going to make one for my C-175 also!
       
      Now I need to figure out how come it's not staying DISengaged.  It EASILY jumps off the detent at the slightest touch.  It appears to be a new bracket / lever, judging from the paint on it, but I have not investigated further yet.  Wonder if anyone has run into this and solved it?
       

       
      What is the correct routing for the throttle cable?  This just CAN'T be correct!  It's right on the cooling fins of the engine, it's done melted the skin off the cable!  Maybe it's a replacement cable and simply too short?
      If someone could post a pic of the correct routing it would be much appreciated!
       

       
      While looking that over I noticed some oil 'weepage' at the front of the engine.  To me it appears to be concentrated right under the fuel pump.  I presume there's a gasket there that may need to be refreshed?
       

       

       
      The only other suspect is the valve cover but and that appears to be a little weepy too, but  more so the fuel pump. 
       

       
      What say you K301 gurus?
       
       
       
       
    • windish62
      By windish62
      New to the forum.
      I just bought my first wheel horse, it's a c125 8 speed with a 10 hp k241 so it's been repowered I take it.
      My concern is when rototilling in first gear low I cant just let the clutch out and let the tractor do its thing I have to keep in and out of the clutch to let the motor catch back up. 
      Is the motor tired or is the tractor underpowered?
      I have not cleaned the carb or done anything to the tractor yet for that matter. Just trying to get a feel for it. 
×
×
  • Create New...