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tgranthamfd

Key on, nothing

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tgranthamfd
On ‎4‎/‎18‎/‎2016 at 2:27 PM, gwest_ca said:

The wire going from the ignition switch to the pto switch for the starter circuit should be tan in color.

There are 2 pto switches side by side.

The switch with the same tan wire is for the starter.

With the pto OFF the tan wire should feed 12 volts to the purple wire on the same switch. See if you get that when the ignition key is in the START position. 

If you do not get 12 volts on the purple wire the pto switch is not closing.

 

If you do get 12 volts on the purple that wire goes on to the transmission clutch switch. With the clutch pedal down that switch should power the starter solenoid like your remote starter switch does.

I'm saying 12 volts. If it is easier to use a test light use it.

The problem could be the switch, the wire connections or perhaps the switch button or lever is not getting pushed as required to close the switch.

 

Let us know what you find.

 

This 1983 operator manual has a wiring diagram showing the wire colors

 

Garry

If I use a test light, would that be another test from an isolated ground wire, to the PTO wire, or just from battery ground, still connected? Well, I guess with test light or meter?

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tgranthamfd

I tried it with the test light. No matter how I tried it, I did not get a light, at the wire, opposite the tan wire, on the PTO switch. I did find the 15 amp fuse blown, replaced it, but nothing different. I guess I popped it during the testing, at some point, in the whole process? I tried from ground, from positive, with clutch in, with clutch out, with PTO off, and with PTO on? I couldn't see the colors very well, so I tried every combination I could think of. Left to right, top to bottom, and even the other side? The seat switch ground was connected to the ignition switch ground terminal, when I got the mower, with the seat switch gone, so I even tried with it connected and disconnected. Ignition switch is grounded with or without this wire hooked up.

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gwest_ca

Test light just needs to to grounded. Just remember the key switch needs to be in the START position to get power to the pto switch.

Think you best remove the pto switch so you can press the button by hand to see if it works out of the tractor.

It could be the pto won't push the button correctly or the switch is no good.

 

Garry

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tgranthamfd
9 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

Test light just needs to to grounded. Just remember the key switch needs to be in the START position to get power to the pto switch.

Think you best remove the pto switch so you can press the button by hand to see if it works out of the tractor.

It could be the pto won't push the button correctly or the switch is no good.

 

Garry

Good suggestion, I will try that in the morning. Probably see everything a little better, as well. Only lighting I have is the two barn doors! I think that switch might be hard to find, I did find several part numbers for it / them, Kind of expensive, too.

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tgranthamfd

Well, couldn't get to everything to test, or even see the wire colors, so I just went ahead and bought that high dollar PTO switch and the clutch switch. After all they was the only 2 left, right. Got them in, unplugged  the 4 wires, hooked them to the new switch, closed the switch, hit the key, and nothing! Came in scratching my head, realized that I didn't push in the clutch so went out and tried it again, and much to my surprise and pleasure, it busted off with the key switch!! Just a note the new part number 98-2392, for the PTO, is a single 4 prong switch, so there is no need to buy 2 individual switches. I do appreciate all of the help!

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gwest_ca

That is good to hear. Some rainy day you will have to figure out which switch has the problem.

 

Garry

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tgranthamfd
12 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

That is good to hear. Some rainy day you will have to figure out which switch has the problem.

 

Garry

Oh, it is the old PTO switch, I never got around to putting on the new clutch switch. I had changed all the switches one at a time, so I would know for sure which one crapped out. I just need to review all the information, in this post, and go ahead and figure out the test procedures. I think all of my old switches are good, except the PTO.

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tgranthamfd

Well the PTO switch did the trick, now I got a hub wiggling around, and I burned up the PTO bearing! anyway that's another story. with this big box of parts I ordered, I'm still in it at, or around $300!! It mows like a dream and purrs like a kitten, with minimal oil usage! Would still like to thank everyone for their help. Much appreciated.

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