Jump to content
Portuguese Farmer

C-120 PTO Clutch Re-line / Re-build

Recommended Posts

 
elcamino/wheelhorse

Thanks a lot for the info . I liked you step by step instructions with photo's.:bow-blue:

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
WNYPCRepair
14 minutes ago, Aldon said:

These tutorial type threads should get pinned.

 

 

Definitely. 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ztnoo

6 hours ago, Aldon said:

These tutorial type threads should get pinned.

 

2tu.gif

wavetowel2.gif

Edited by ztnoo
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
KC9KAS

Nice instructional post.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

Thank you!!!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
clip

You're the man. I'm going to be ordering supplies immediately.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ed Kennell

:thanks:  for becoming a supporter  and for the great instructional contribution.   Great detail and :text-coolphotos:.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??
21 minutes ago, clip said:

You're the man. I'm going to be ordering supplies immediately.

:text-yeahthat:

Yes have one to do myself and was wondering how to re-rivet it.

 

Name looks good in RED Farmer :text-thankyouyellow:  Really good pics, hopefully you can find time to do more of these.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
clip

What's the ID/OD of your clutch disc by the way?

 

Looks like Amazon sells friction material already pre-cut in discs, but price varies wildly with shipping.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Portuguese Farmer
9 minutes ago, clip said:

What's the ID/OD of your clutch disc by the way?

 

Looks like Amazon sells friction material already pre-cut in discs, but price varies wildly with shipping.

 

6.75" OD

4.5" ID

.125" Thickness

.55 Coefficient of Friction

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
TDF5G

Great tutorial and pics.  Thank you.  I've been considering doing this myself.  I had no idea what kind of adhesive to use that would hold up well.

:text-bravo:

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

Bumping this up as it should be pinned in the instructional section

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
TDF5G
4 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Bumping this up as it should be pinned in the instructional section

:text-yeahthat:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
hgpsmerk

Hi. I have to do this on one of my 314-8's. Whats the best way to disassemble the hub of the PTO?

Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
The Tuul Crib

I'm about to receive a new clutch disk for my 6 inch PTO. I just ordered some new rivets from parts tree and I'm still wondering the best way to mushroom the back side of the rivets on the clutch disc. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
glentaybow

Bom dia portuguese farmer

Are you by chance Brazilian?

Anyway, I love your how-to on the PTO clutch lining replacement.  I have a C-101 with a similar setup and I'll use the info you provided to do the work on mine.

I don't have a machine to finish the face on the pulley so I'll have to take it to a machine shop.  It's pretty rough.  Again, a great presentation.  Thanks so much for all the info.

Your talent knows no boundary!

Glenn

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
little red riding horse

I will be needing to reline a centrifugal clutch on a atc soon that has 3 shoes shaped like drum brakes but smaller,  just wandering if this material would bend instead of using it flat ? The clutch shoes im needing are no longer available.... here are similar ones to mine...link  thanks !

Phil

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??

I would guess that it is somewhat bendable. You may want to talk with @rmaynard and see if his brake lining might work for what you are trying to do. 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
peter lena

@Portuguese Farmer something else you might consider , is how much COLLECTIVE BEARING DRAG do you have on that clutch set up  ?  if you cannot  easily move / spin up an attachment  at the open belt drive section , by hand , and that clutch  is screaming  on any attempt to use it , you are only correcting half of the problem . think about it , do attachments  spin  spin easily by hand ? or rusty , noisy, lumpy ?  only asking , if attachments are free spinning , smooth / quiet  , pto clutch works without  effort , 50-50 deal  , pete  

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • the jeep driver
      By the jeep driver
      My daughter was using the Wheel Horse rider to mow, I was push mowing.  She drives over to me and says, "Dad, the blades aren't turning." I look at the mower, she's got the blades engaged (lever forward) but nothing is moving.  I disengage the blades, and re-engage... nothing.  No movement from the belt nor clutch.  Then I notice the smell, and look closer, the belt is so hot is melting on the clutch.  Or rather, the clutch is so hot it's melting the belt.  Melting occurred. 

      While the clutch is disengaged, I can spin the clutch freely; and whilst it's engaged, it won't move. 

      So, what did I do now?  Peter told me to lube that needle bearing, but I couldn't find a write up/how to anywhere, so I was putting it off until after the leaves were done falling in the Fall.  I haven't taken anything off yet, other than the pins that hold the pinion and such, and the little brake pad.  I see there are two snap rings, assume they come off, and then the assembly slides out as a whole? 

       
      Some pictures of the clutch, can anyone tell if it's usable from them?
       

       

       

       
       
    • decvt79
      By decvt79
      My 1999 270H with 48” deck is having an issue getting power to PTO.   Checked PTO with jumper to battery and it worked fine and I’ve actually been cutting grass using the jumper for awhile.  I checked power from PTO switch to PTO and there is none.  I checked PTO switch and it appeared OK but I replaced it anyway and still no power to PTO.   Then checked brown/tan wire leading to switch and there is none.   Could the issue be the NMIR module and is there a good way to check it.  If bad, where is the best place to get a replacement and do other brands/models have NMIR a modules I can use.    Also, would suppling battery power directly to PTO switch and bypassing NMIR result in switch working.
    • KC9KAS
      By KC9KAS
      Need assistance! 1977 Wheel Horse C-120 hydro. I sold it to a young fellow last fall. His dad said he put a new battery in it but it still failed to turn over to start. I checked the only safety switch (with an ohm meter) and it is working correctly. I checked all the wires (ohm meter) and they tested ok. I did come to the conclusion the 20 amp AMP gauge was bad. I installed an old one that I had and it turned over and started right up. I already had the voltage regulator wires disconnected and read 36 VAC from the stator. When I attached the wires to the (fairly new) voltage regulator it would immediately cause the engine to sputter and die. The voltage regulator is grounded directly to the negative post on the battery. Once the wires were removed from the voltage regulator it would fire right back up! I am at my wits end trying to figure this one out! Would a bad voltage regulator cause the engine to quit running? I may have to remove a voltage regulator from another known good machine and try it. Anyone have any suggestions?
    • trident
      By trident
      Need some help. My 800 Special has an electric PTO. It is not working. Checked Ohms - nothing. My questions are 1) how does the PTO come off and 2) can they be rebuilt? I took the bolt out that I thought holds it on but no luck. Must be something more?
×
×
  • Create New...