Jump to content
DownHome

unidrive newbie

Recommended Posts

DownHome

So be nice to me but I am working on my 1st WH. 855 I got everything running and I'm trying to figure out the transmission. I feel like I'm constantly grinding gears. I'm new to these tractors so I have no experience but I'm expecting this to not be very challenging. Maybe it's just getting used to the shifting?  Or is this an indication that I have a bigger problem? Seems like sometimes it's not an issue but others it's grinding back at me. Any advice?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
AMC RULES

You can't shift it on the fly...       :WRS:

must come to a complete stop before grabbing the next gear. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Retired Sparky

Good luck with your challenge.  :text-welcomeconfetti: to :rs:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Sparky

What Craig said above...and.....you need the drive belt guard in place to properly stop the belt from spinning the transmission input pulley.

:WRS:

 

Mike............

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
DownHome
1 minute ago, Sparky said:

What Craig said above...and.....you need the drive belt guard in place to properly stop the belt from spinning the transmission input pulley.

:WRS:

 

Mike............

 

So I currently have the drive belt guard off.  This is part of my problem?

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
AMC RULES

Should fix it. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut
4 minutes ago, DownHome said:

This is part of my problem?

That is the problem! The belt guard stops the belt when the clutch is depressed.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ed Kennell

Yep, trust these guys.  You're not the first person that removed the belt guard to find a problem and created the gear grinding problem by not putting it back on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

The belt guard is (in effect) the clutch.  When you step on the clutch peddle, the tension pulley drops and takes the tension off the belt.  The belt guard funnels the slack in the belt toward the engine pulley and the input pulley on the trans stops turning...allowing you to shift.  :)

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Racinbob

There's a tab at the front of the belt guard. If it's like an 854 it's at the bottom. Make sure it's adjusted close enough to the belt. Just recently a friend with an 854 had the same problem. I looked at the tab and it was about 1/2" away. I simply pushed it up so there was just a fuzz of clearance and the issue was gone. :)

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??

:text-yeahthat:like Bob said....if the tab is worn a drop of brazing rod or weld on it wil fix it.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??

By the way DownHome that belt guard is there for another reason, last year mine was vibrating and making a racket on my 1067. I took it off to investigate (loose mounts) and when I had it off I went to move the horse to a different stall and when I did it reared up and bit. Real good too, pant leg got caught and ripped right thru to my right calf. Bloody mess by the time is was done. Was going to put a picture in bumps & bruises after my wife cleaned it up but she deemed it too gross. Got a real @ss reaming from her from being stupid and the damage to a good pair of firehose pants.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ed Kennell

Hmmm,  all this time I thought "belt guard" was a device to protect the belt.   :kbutt:    Guess which one is Jims Mrs.

Edited by ekennell
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • jmack
      By jmack
      I’m looking for a transmission dipstick to a D-180. Let me know if you see one. 
    • WH1618speed
      By WH1618speed
      1965 Wheel Horse 855 with 42" blade and chains 
       
      Runs good
      Sheet metal is very straight, great candidate for restoration. 
      Missing Belt guard 
      Will sell tractor by itself for $500 without blade and chains 
      Blade is straight and lots of cutting edge left... just a little rusty. 
       
      Text, call, or email with any questions. If you call and I don't answer please leave a voicemail with your name and number. Thanks!
       
      I can also deliver to the big show in Arendtsville, PA... IF you prepay. 
       
      Facebook Marketplace link with more pics: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/598023068755689?rid=229092436403311&ad_id&rt=1&refID=0&refType=0&referral_code=commerce_attachment
       
       

    • Doug B
      By Doug B
      Hey guys,I have a dilemma I need some help with. I have a 1969 GT 14 that I replaced the transmission and pump on. For about 2 weeks afterward everything worked great, but while mowing at a pretty good pace I noticed a shudder and the tractor slowed a little but not bad. The more I rode it the slower it got until it barely moves. What stumps me is the hydraulics are still very strong,as in I can back the 3 point under the bumper of my truck and if you lift the arms all the way up the front wheels of the tractor will clear the ground. Have checked the tow valve and checked the internal filter,but no luck. I have also checked and replaced the forward and reverse bypass springs and the lever is moving the cam to full travel, forward and reverse. Any help would be appreciated.
    • TonyI
      By TonyI
      I have a 418-c  worked great plowing over the winter.. but now is having no power pulling a load fwd.
      replaced the fluid.. the old fluid didn't look bad. feels a littls better., but still significant loss of power and high pitched whine coming out of the hydro.  the lift works fine
       
      is there a repair manual our there for the hydro?  Is there a way to reverse flush the system?   I hear sometimes the hoses crack internally and clog things up.
    • mattd860
      By mattd860
      I have developed a kit that allows a Wheel Horse / Toro hydrostatic tractor to be operated by a pedal on the right side of the tractor. The original forward/reverse lever can be retained or removed. The kit includes everything needed to install the pedal kit and installation is simple with the help of a downloadable installation manual. Additionally, only one (1) 1/4" hole will need to be drilled which can be done by a hand drill. No other drilling or cutting will be necessary. Any tractor with this kit can be converted back to stock without any visible evidence that kit was installed. However, you'll never want to do that

      The kit operates very simply and similar to modern tractors. When the pedal is pushed forwards the tractor will move forwards. When the reverse pedal is pressed downwards, the tractor will moved in reverse. If the operator takes his foot of the pedal at any time, the pedal will automatically center itself and the hydrostatic transmission will return to neutral (stop). This enables the operator to use both hands on the steering wheel or one hand on the wheel and the other operating an attachment like a snow blower, plow, etc.

      The foot pedal is custom cast in Aluminum, uses brass bushings to minimize wear, and it closely matches the OEM Wheel Horse BRAKE pedal commonly found on 8-speed manual transmission tractors. Modifications were done to the pedal to add the reverse pedal and adapt the pedal to the rest of the kit. For the most part, the pedal looks like it was designed and manufactured by Wheel Horse / Toro. Additionally, a grease fitting has been adapted to the pedal to further minimize wear and tear and if the brass bushings ever wear out they are fully replaceable without having to buy a whole new pedal. 

      The pedal kit fits the following series tractors with Eaton hydrostatic transmissions: C-1X5, 300, 400, 500. 
       
      My kit can be adapted to older hydrostatic tractors with the Sundstrand transmission, however, you will need to find an updated hydro cam commonly found on ebay. Message me for more information. 
       
      Here is a link where you can download the installation manual: CLICK HERE
       
      I am selling these kits for $330 shipped to anywhere in the United States. I offer multi order discounts as well. I will also sell to other countries for additional shipping charges to be determined.
       
      If anyone has any questions please feel free to PM me or post your question here and I will be glad to help. Or you can email me at mattdarling02@hotmail.com.

      Thanks!
       
       
      Below are pictures of the complete kit and the pedal installed on the tractor. Some modifications have been made since these pictures were taken. For example, the reverse pedal is now cast in aluminum instead of the steel pedal shown below. 
       

       

       

       

       

       
×
×
  • Create New...