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ztnoo

GT 14 Rectifier Replacement?

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ztnoo

While I've got my GT 14 up on floor stands....at the back end anyway......attempting to deal with some very stuck wheel hubs, I'm looking around for other things which could use some attention.
Given the time of year, its the perfect situation to give some areas that may have been neglected or even half-assed to work when things were of a more pressing nature during mowing season.
Let's see.......rear axle seals, a change of tranny fluid and filter, belts perhaps..........oh yeah.......lest I forget that nagging rectifier I've had some trouble with last spring when the battery wouldn't charge and the electric clutch refused to work because of low voltage.

I discovered one of the three rectifier male spades about 2/3rds broken off and the wire connecting it dangling in thin air. Yeah, that's definitely too long an arc to jump voltage across, be it AC or DC.
I fiddled with trying to get the spade to accept a female terminal.......but there just wasn't enough "meat" left for the connection to work.
As usual, I was pressed to get the yard done, and didn't take the time to research and seek out a new replacement rectifier.
Somehow I managed to solder the wire lead to what little was left of the spade.......and remarkably it held all season. Amazing.

Anyway, I need to address this problem permanently and replace the rectifier and the terminal leads which attach to it.
Nothing in any of the WH literature I have gives the slightest clue about a rectifier specifically......not in diagram, not in the parts list......and nowhere else have I read what that part is and how to identify a replacement.
One would almost assume there isn't one from researching literature. But we all at least causally know, that's not true. You gotta have a rectifier to charge that battery or you won't be running very long.

My only minor hint in the owner's manual comes from the electrical info listed on page 5 under Specifications. The following info is given:
    "Changing System: 10 Amp. Alternator w/Solid State Regulator"

So, I'm going to assume, the GT 14 originally came equipped with a 10 amp rectifier. Seems reasonable and I'm relatively sure the one on the tractor is probably the original.
At some point during the 35 years I have had this tractor, the original 14 hp Kohler and its integral connecting rod decided to leave the building, so to speak. End result: destroyed block and crank.
Remedy: a new 16 hp Kohler K341 installed. Hooked up to the same original rectifier. Ran like a charm for years.......until a spade gives up a significant portion of its length.

Fast forward to 2/5/16: What do I replace the ailing rectifier with?
10 amp? 15amp? another rating? What brand? From whom? Anything special or noteworthy to be aware of in my quest?
I'm wandering and babbling a bit, but if anyone here can help lead me to the Promised Land of Replacement Rectifiers, I would be most grateful and appreciative.

Steve

Edited by ztnoo
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gwest_ca

I have not looked yet but since you can not find anything on the regulator it was likely supplied by Kohler with the engine so it may be on the parts list for the engine.

From what I have seen the 15amp regulator demands lower $'s likely because of supply and demand. It will work fine on the 10 amp system.

 

If you have an ohmmeter remove the regulator and check for continuity between each AC terminal and the DC+ terminal. One of them is connected directly to the DC+ terminal inside the regulator. If that is the one that is corroded join that AC wire to the DC+ wire. Then you are good to go with 2 wires. Have been doing that for about 20 years with one.

If all works out the body of the regulator requires a good ground so adding a wire from one of the mounting bolts to a good ground closer to the battery should give you many years of service.

A good layer of dielectric silicone grease on the terminals and connectors should keep corrosion at bay also.

 

Garry

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953 nut

Lots of three wire rectifiers on :techie-ebay:, new ones about $ 20.00. As a rule the two outer terminals are the AC 36 +/- volts coming from the engine and the center terminal is the DC 14 volt line to the battery.

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ztnoo

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