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ztnoo

GT 14 rear wheel hub

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TDF5G
15 hours ago, Aldon said:

Congrats!!!!!

 

:greetings-clappingyellow::thumbs:

Ditto on that!  Your patience and perseverance has paid off!

 

I just checked the woodruff key assortment here at work.  In a 1/4" thickness, the longest we have is 1 1/2".

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MWR
17 hours ago, DennisThornton said:

I think that cycles of heat and penetrant, even Kroil, is mostly a waste of both heat and penetrant.  Heat insufficient to release the part only burns/drives away the penetrant and the insufficient heat does nothing to get the part out.  Yes a little heat and sometimes a little penetrant by itself will indeed sometimes release a part that's a little stuck.  But if long soaks and some rapping and hammer tapping (or POUNDING) won't free it then it needs some HEAT!  Not with a hair dryer, or propane torch but with something that will deliver at least red heat!  Now often that kind of heat can also melt adjacent parts or damage the temper of surrounding or attached parts so the trick is to use some real HEAT!  Fast and furious to heat at least part of the offending part to at least a dull cherry red, persuade it out and quickly cool the remaining.

 

For removing stuck parts, to me, "heat" means at least a dull cherry red HEAT, usually delivered by an oxy/acet torch.  I probably wouldn't have wrapped a wet towel around both sides of the axle but you could, then I would have very quickly heated the protruding part of that key to almost white hot, which would dull by the time I grabbed my chisel and hammer and I cannot have any other image in my head other that it coming out seconds later.

I've heard that method referred to as "applying the hot wrench".

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Retired Sparky
On 2/18/2016 at 8:35 PM, ztnoo said:

Look at this GT 14 hub pulling from Wheel Horse Junkies https://www.facebook.com/groups/263966625951/

Notice the flattened front tire.......more mass resistance to moving.......better than chocks, IMO.

 

12745405_1152785714746633_19732324949295

 

Look at what this gent successfully pulled this with...... a hope, a prayer, and maybe some adult beverages. Yikes!!!

Looked real flimsy to me.......pretty scary stuff.....

He didn't bust the hub, and didn't get injured.

Definitely a home brew solution that fortunately turned out OK.

 

12729087_1152027604822444_45428283070474

 

 

What was the capacity of the bottle jack you used to pull your wheel hub. I've two to do on mine before I decide weather to add new rubber. B)

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ztnoo

The bottle jack wasn't something I used. I found the idea at a WH Facebook site.

Reread the thread......it wasn't me, and it wasn't my idea.

I thought it was highly risky when I saw it posted.

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FlatbedAndy
On ‎3‎/‎9‎/‎2016 at 9:08 AM, TDF5G said:

Ditto on that!  Your patience and perseverance has paid off!

 

I just checked the woodruff key assortment here at work.  In a 1/4" thickness, the longest we have is 1 1/2".

Anyone had any luck finding those 2 inch keys?

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ztnoo

To follow up and answer your question, I will refer you to three relevant threads, all relating to this woodruff key discussion:

 

1.

2.

3.

 

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TDF5G
9 hours ago, FlatbedAndy said:

Anyone had any luck finding those 2 inch keys?

Not I.

 

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ztnoo

Fastenal

It's on the second page of the first link I supplied.

 

Almost anywhere in the US has a Fastenal reasonably close by, and if not, order them online.

Problem solved.

Edited by ztnoo
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Aldon

@wheelhorseman1000 might be able to provide as well.

 

I can provide one as reference should Lowell need it.

 

i was able to procure a few via Fastenal. 

 

They do do not stock to Zero bin. 

 

Meaning that if they are at zero stock they do not order. At least that was what they told me. They would do a special order but qty and price was prohibitive. If they have them in stock, it's reasonable but not necessarily expeditious in a world where Amazon prime and Priority Mail has spoiled some of us.

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wheelhorseman

I have them, I just haven't had time to list them yet.

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Aldon

Perfect. A Forum member/vendor to the rescue!!!!

Perfect. A Forum member/vendor to the rescue!!!!

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ztnoo

2tu.gif

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Sarge

When it comes to hubs , keys and the like nothing ever argues with my Harris - when the #5 tip comes out something will give whether it likes it or not , never lost a battle yet .

 

As to using a hub for a pulling tool - not a bad idea and at least gives a reference to keep them aligned exactly straight . However , bolts are never intended to create the amount of force necessary most times on a hub , ect - even with extremely fine threads . Since bolt threads are generally cut to 60* (Whitworth is mostly 50*) they are a knife edge that will wedge itself under extreme tension . A much better choice is the common 29* flat-faced ACME threaded rods and matching nuts - those can be had in 1" x 5 pitch (common stock size) and alternative pitches in 4,6,8 threads - 8 pitch being a very fine high load pitch design . The ACME rod is designed for power transfer specifically - it's threads have a flat faced thrust side and will move tremendous loads with little effort . High end pullers use this thread design and are very hard to find , most off the shelf industrial and automotive pullers just use a very fine thread screw that is heat treated and hardened to make it work - but in comparison to ACME threads they will strip or gall the threads much easier . I've destroyed several puller forcing screws as well as the main frame due to galling - no going back once that happens . A good high quality puller will withstand being abused by an impact , although the 600ft/lb Matco is truly pushing that limit .

 

If I can get time I'll build a puller using some 1" X 5 thread ACME rod I have here - it's also slated to build a vise for my welding table for pushing/pulling bent objects prior to weld repairs . I already have a 60,000lb rated thrust bearing here somewhere as well to use for a pushing face if I can find the dumb thing - some of this stuff was ordered for another job and I have a habit of getting "extra" parts when I feel it can be used in the future - the shop is full of that stuff , hence the mess . ACME rod in 3' lengths as well as matching nuts can be had from most industrial suppliers and even Fastenal and Grainger carry common sizes . If you do go this route , try to find the finest thread pitch you can get - it will go a long way in creating more force .

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trapezoidal_thread_forms

 

http://www.roton.com/family/acme-right-screws-and-nuts-7060782/

 

https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-B7-Steel-WP7118763/_/N-1z0dy2s?s_pp=false&picUrl=//static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/4FGH4_AS01?$smthumb$#nav=%2Fproduct%2FGRAINGER-APPROVED-B7-Steel-WP7118763%2F_%2FN-13jcZ1z0dy2sZ1yzj8tuZ1z0jwek%3FR%3D10P728%26_%3D1483802763148%26picUrl%3D%2F%2Fstatic.grainger.com%2Frp%2Fs%2Fis%2Fimage%2FGrainger%2F4FGH4_AS01%3F%24smthumb%24%26s_pp%3Dfalse

 

Sarge

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ztnoo

Superb post!

Thank you for your input!

thumbup 2.gif

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  • Similar Content

    • ztnoo
      By ztnoo
      Not sure this is in the right category, but here goes anyway.
       
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      leakage area circled

       
      leakage area circled

       
      ***  Updated Addendum: June 1, 2017
      See my last post dated June 1 on page 2 of this thread.
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    • ztnoo
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    • ztnoo
      By ztnoo
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