RECIEVER / HITCH TIP

[Ed Kennell 35,724]

I got tired of the annoying start/stop bump I got from the movement in the receiver/slug when towing.    I know these locks are available $30, but being a frugal DIY retiree, I made mine from a 5/8 hex bolt and two 5/8 nuts.  Make sure the bolt has enough thread to complete the assembly.

 

First, I welded a 5/8 nut to a flat bar.

 

Then using the bar as a handle, insert the nut inside the slug. Then insert the bolt screwing it thru the nut and out thru the slugwall.  Make sure you are using the correct hole in the slug. Lock the nut to the  inside wall with another nut outside the slug.

Then weld the bar to the slug and cut off the excess bar.          Please do a better weld than this.

 

Now, assemble the slug in the receiver, screw the 5/8 bolt thru the nut and out thru the receiver wall.  Lock the slug and receiver together with a lock washer and 5/8 nut. 

 

                                       No more movement when towing.

[Bach-Ed 164]

Not that it really matters with a tractor and one towed implement.  Slack in the couplers is what allows a train to get started.  If the locomotive had to break them all loose at once the train would never move.  But that slack is not always a bad thing.

[truckin88 104]

On 1/1/2016 at 7:05 PM, Bach-Ed said:

Not that it really matters with a tractor and one towed implement.  Slack in the couplers is what allows a train to get started.  If the locomotive had to break them all loose at once the train would never move.  But that slack is not always a bad thing.

This is correct also has to do with force on stopping short / hard breaking. I am not sure taking the slack out this way is  a good thing if you have load. They make hitches that reduced the feel, but allow the hitch to function as it should.

[Ed Kennell 35,724]

Maybe I should have clarified the need to lock the hitch solidly to the receiver is only necessary on my small trailers without a load leveling hitch, and we are not talking about locking the hydraulic actuator on a trailers hydraulic braking system.

 

On my large trailers with the load leveling arms this is not necessary as the loading of the arms puts so much upward force at the rear of the receiver and downward  force at the front of the receiver that the slug and receiver are locked together rigidly so there is no play or movement between the two.

 

The philosophy of having play designed into a train coupling so the engines are only starting to move one car at a time is  understandable on a train that may have hundreds of loaded cars.

I don't think this idea applies nor is it  a good idea to have any slop between a towing vehicle and a single trailer.  This  only puts undue wear on the hitch components and the towing vehichle in addition to being a annoyance as the slop is taken up when starting, stopping, and changing speeds.

[cleat 4,947]

When we had the old Windstar and I hooked up the trailer it made lots of noise with the receiver banging up and down.

 

It however had the smaller solid square receiver so I simply learned to live with it. I have seen some people drive in wooden wedges.

 

The 2" receiver on my F-150 is back far enough that I don't hear it.

 

A nylock nut may be good to use as well, you do not want that bolt coming out.

[shallowwatersailor 3,213]

After renting a few U-Haul trailers that have a coupling that tightens on the ball and after-market couplings that you can adjust, I was surprised to find a non-adjustable coupling welded in place on my trailer. After going through all of the differences between manufacturers it was something I missed. Of course, like cleat said, it is pretty far back there to listen to.

 

Where I notice it is when loading. It is only that small piece of metal catching the back of the ball. Part of the problem is that I bought a 12' single axle trailer which has 5' hanging behind the axle, plus another 4' with the gate when down. It's not too bad with loading a Classic Wheel Horse but the 5xi has 1/3 more additional weight. I am going to look into stabilizing jacks to be added to the rear for piece of mind. 

 

I sure am glad that I didn't buy the 5'x14' single axle that one dealer had for hauling two quads. I feel that 10' is the max on a single axle for hauling tractors. I guess that I should have gone with a tandem 14' - but it is a lot of trailer for occasional general use.