Jump to content
Terry M

5025 Uni-Drive casting question

Recommended Posts

Terry M

I'm spending the winter months rebuilding a few Uni-Drives and have a question about a casting difference I've noticed on a couple of my 5025 transmissions.

why do some of  the 5025's have a notch/or bump casted into the axle outlet area?   I say some because one of the transmissions from a 1962 Lawn Ranger, with the  supposed   5025 , doesn't have the notches :scratchead:.   My 854 has the notches (on the 5025) but haven't seen these on any others.  

 

No rebuild issues here, Just curious if anybody knows why these are found on 5025s.   Here a couple of pics....IMG_2669.JPG.84c0e7067290c6b556da9e4c276IMG_2670.JPG.d28a383ad1c96e6576bfc067b68IMG_2696.JPG.422f0ebfdd2f7e6eb6805a19229IMG_2697.JPG.31040e2512e823b9d3becf1bb4b 

Edited by Terry M

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??

I'm thinking just different molds they were cast in..... maybe @stevasaurus can help out?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Racinbob

I'm thinking just the mold used too. Currently I have what were supposed to be two 5053 transmissions completely disassembled. After getting them opened up it was obvious that one of them wasn't a 5053 but an earlier version. Only the left case half on the older unit has that notch thingy :confusion-shrug:

Edited by Racinbob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

Good eye Terry.  :eusa-think:  I happen to have 1 #5025 in parts that I just spent the afternoon cleaning up.  I have another spare that I rebuilt a few years ago.  Both of these have those little nubbies...I checked my 702 (which does have a for real # 5025 transmission) and it does not have those.  It is possible that it is just a casting thing, but looking at where they are located, it is possible that it was meant to strengthen the axle housing for pulling a plow through a field or a tiller.  What are the casting dates on the transmissions that you are working on Terry??...and I will check mine.  Bob, you seem to have 2 different halves...should be a casting date on both.  Some of these Section II so called 5025's (5007, 5025, 5046, 5048, 5049, and 5053) are kind of ear marked for Rangers, but not entirely.  We have been spending time for a while trying to figure out the difference between these transmissions.  Part of it is what they were doing with the fork shafts.  Terry, (Stevasaurus of the North)...RacinBob and I are going to want to know what those shafts look like also...ie...do they have a flat side on the shaft to reduce oil suction and pressure...are the grooves all the way around the shaft.  :)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Racinbob

I didn't look at the casting dates this afternoon Steve. I will tomorrow. I was pretty sure that tranny has been screwed with big time. :)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

Bob, I am not sure if the casting dates will help or not, but it is another difference.  I will grab my casting dates tomorrow also.  Guess what...that trans I got form you has the flat, ground shafts with deeper grooves, but the grooves are not lathed all the way around.  Pictures to follow.  :)  It seems there is an up-date kit (7168) that changes a #5048 trans to a #5053...is this the groove thingy we are talking about??  :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Racinbob

I think you're talking about when they first switched from the 35xx rails to the 56xx (on the left in the picture). I haven't been able to confirm when they went to the circular detent. Only the center, neutral detent should be deeper. That's how the transmission 'knew' one of the rails was in the neutral position. Making all the detents the same depth would defeat the purpose. The 5048 was an oddball. All the others in the 3 speed unidrive category use the 3906 bull gear. Keep in mind that I'm referring to the transmissions with the spur gear differential, not the bevel gears.  The 5048 used a 5575 bull gear and the axles and axle gears were ine piece. The 7168 kit changed that stuff effectively making it a 5053 (service bulletins #76 and #98). The 5048 was the first 3 speed to utilize the 56xx rails but you know how Wheel Horse liked to use up parts. The only tractors that had the 5048 were the L-105 and L-155 Rangers. :)

Shifter rails.JPG

Edited by Racinbob
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Terry M

I will look for the casting dates and check the shifting shafts too.    Andrew's Lawn Ranger trans (5053)is also slated for a rebuild do to axle shaft seals that started leaking lube oil all over his new powder coated rims.   Sometime tomorrow, I'll try to take some pics too if you don't  mind the lower quality pics..(have a new camera on my x-mas wish list:occasion-santa:)

 

until tomorrow:)

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

The casting dates on the trans I have apart are "B19%4 and M20%3.  1963 & 1964...not sure what "M" means, there is only 12 months (last time I checked).

2008_0122TRANSNEW10016.thumb.JPG.b39226e

Here is a couple of pictures of the fork shafts...the neutral notch appears to be the same depth as the other notches.

2008_0122TRANSNEW10001.thumb.JPG.54d519b

2008_0122TRANSNEW10002.thumb.JPG.1e859fd

2008_0122TRANSNEW0002.thumb.JPG.18bc6d93

 

Bob, the gears in this trans are like brand new.  :)  Looks like I got some good shots of the flat on the fork shaft.  Terry, if you forks do not have this flat, you may want to either file or grind them to match.  :)

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Terry M

OK, I found the trans from the 62 lawn ranger had no flat side on the fork shafts.  the trans from the 63 Lawn ranger did.  Everything else seems the same.IMG_2716.JPG.c31ccff49f7383492eee6008abbIMG_2715.JPG.dd554a2adef043746ff5bab01b2IMG_2714.thumb.jpg.2b071e003ca29b2fca02e

IMG_2711.jpg

IMG_2712.JPG

IMG_2713.jpg

Edited by Terry M
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

Cool...B19%2 = February 19, 1962....A29%3 = Junuary 29, 1963.  Looks like you have an A28%3 and I can't read the 4th one...looks like a "C" = March.  The notches in the shafts that do not have the flats are not as pronounced as in the ones with the flat.  :)  Thanks Terry.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Terry M

That one is hard to read Steve....Just appears as "C1 - 2"   to my eyeballs.

I forgot to mention, I think I remember someone saying that when the Unidrive cases are cast, machined / manufactured, they were pretty much stacked in a pile waiting for  assembly....So that is why date codes don't always match up on a finished Trans.    I think Jason/Casual observer stated that once.....but I could be wrong.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

That is what I was thinking...that would be March 1, 1962.  :)

Any guesses on what a "M" would be???  :)

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Terry M

The "M"??  My only guess would be someone forgot to start over with an "A"...or the current or "to Be"  discontinued Model trans went into the next year   (dec. - Jan.) . Just a guess:):eusa-think:

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
wallfish

The "M"??

My guess is the foundry didn't use the letter " I " for Sept. since it could be confused with a number 1. :twocents-02cents:

Edited by wallfish
  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

You know John...you are the reason I keep coming back to the show.  :)  I would miss you if it was longer then 12 months.  I think you are absolutely correct...so my "M" would be December.    Gatta be.  :)  Thanks Mate

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Racinbob

Aside from the rails the cases leave no doubt that one of the two 5053's that were given to me isn't a 5053 even though it was bolted to a 657. The castings are H1%3 and L2%3. The first 5053's were in 1966. It must be a 5025 or 5046 transplant.

Is that the transmission I took to the show for you Steve?

I'm thinking the flat ground on the rail to relieve the suction/pressure will really minimize most of the issues. Going a step further with the deeper neutral detents is just tweaking it more. I think it's interesting that you can see the progression of the engineering pretty clearly. :)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX??
1 hour ago, wallfish said:

The "M"??

My guess is the foundry didn't use the letter " I " for Sept. since it could be confused with a number 1.

Very common for manufacturers to do just that.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

You see what we can accomplish at a non-scheduled board meeting on Red Square and the input comes from all over the country and sometimes from all over the world.  :)  Why would I happen to have one with an "M" on it???

 

Yes Bob, it is the trans I got from you.  :)

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • stevasaurus
      By stevasaurus
      My intent here is to show lots of pictures so if anyone is rebuilding one of these or some of the others...you can do it without fear and I am adding some very helpful information. I had a post that lead up to this that has some information in it also, and while it overlaps, I wanted to do the rebuild separate. This post is meant to be used with the manual...the pictures help explain better then the pictures in the manual.

      Now I want to share what I learned as I rebuild this...I realize that some have done this, but this was my first time (transmission virgin) and I know I am not the last one to do this. If I can help or make this easier, then I have given back a little from all the help I have received from this site.
       
      Here are a few shots of what this looked like whee I opened the trans.  Notice the 1/4" ball bearings on some of the gears.  Those are from the #1533 bearings.





      This is a shot showing gear placement in the left side of the case. Notice the bevel of the reverse gear (front right). The left side is the shallow side of the transmission halves.


      These are the parts of the differential..the 2 casings on the outside, the 2 axles, the differential bull gear, the 4 posts and the pinions that go on these, and the bolts and nuts that hold it all together.

      I can't get enough looks at the gears before I tear it apart...next 2 pictures are for future reference.



      I found a good assortment of 3/8 and 1/2 sockets that made fair to good arbors for pounding out and tapping in most of the bearings and seals.


      These are the bearings and seals you need to do the R&R. You can get all the stuff from Toro or the site that Jason gave in the related post. One note...the Toro#1303 seal is discontinued. This is called a cup seal, because it has a cup shape. I replaced it with a kind of match (SKF #7410) same dimensions but more like a regular oil seal...it will work. This place used to be Berry Bearings in Elgin...now it is "Motion Industries"...the web site MotionMRO.com...they can match up any bearing or seal. Excellent info. and prices were very good.


      Shot of the bearings and seals removed, cleaned and sanded. Used Valspar Restoration series...I like the red match with my 702 and I like the hardness of the paint.


      Showing bearings and seals installed...notice (arbors on right).



      Putting differential back together...show axle in place with bolts in place.


      Added pinion posts and in 2nd picture...added pinions (alternating one up and one down).



      Added Bull Gear


      Added other axle and case and bolted together. At this point, make sure you can rotate the axles...they should rotate in opposite directions.


      Placing input shaft and gear (one piece) and the reverse idler shaft.


      Installed the 2nd & high shift rail and fork. (one on the left). Also installed both ball bearings, spring and stop pin, and low & reverse shift rail. The 2 sliding gears were then placed...the grooves face each other and the smaller gear goes on the bottom.
      I had a pencil magnet that I used to hold the 2nd ball bearing, while I took an Allen wrench through the hole to hold the bearing out of the way while I placed the low and reverse shift rail. the picture also shows the reverse idler and brake shaft in place.

       

      Another view showing forks and gears.


      Showing reverse idler (bevel up...I hope) in front. Splined shaft installed through the shift fork sliding gears. The cluster gear is then installed( 2 wood-ruff keys here...one on each end). Also, the differential and axles are placed (note the nuts are facing up).


      different angle

       


      yet one more angle


      Put together..old 5 gal wood create works great as a work bench (all shafts fit through and keep work level). Used a hard rubber hammer to tap halves together.
      No leaks when I filled with 90wt gear oil...approx 1 1/2 qts. Checked shifting and started to put the 702 back together today. A final picture or a video tomorrow (hope).


      I want to thank Rickv1957 Fan, MikeRJ, Buckrancher,Suburban550,IndyWH Smokin'Joe, the Helmett and Charlie for all their help and advice...a huge thank you guys.
×
×
  • Create New...