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310-8 guy

Need help restoring 310-8

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310-8 guy

I have a wheel horse 310-8 and I'm really interested in restoring it. I would love to repaint it and make it look original but I don't have a paint gun. Any ideas? 

1448119317006-803666111.jpg

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Brian01

Looks fine to me, just clean it up real good, be surprised what a difference it'll make

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310-8 guy
2 minutes ago, Brian01 said:

Looks fine to me, just clean it up real good, be surprised what a difference it'll make

Thanks. I'm waiting for it to Warm up outside because dang it's cold. This thing sat I'm some lady's barn for 9.5 years. I had to spend last winter digging it out. Little embarrassing because it's never this dirty at all. The only problem that I have is if I put up the throttle all the way I think it runs way way to high.... Maybe I adjusted the linkage wrong? 

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Brian01

Could be out of adjustment...more than likely the high side of carb is turned up though.

 

Just don't idle it up all the way? :scratchead:

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310-8 guy
4 minutes ago, Brian01 said:

Could be out of adjustment...more than likely the high side of carb is turned up though.

 

Just don't idle it up all the way? :scratchead:

Oh God no. I'm very touchy about doing that. I never let anyone touch this thing either because they think it's alright to make it go so high. I think it's running rich because the plugs always black (I brought a new one to make sure)  and it was black. So is there anyway to adjust the carb? I see one idle screw and that's all. 

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mikekot3

A HVLP (High volume low pressure) spray gun for primer and another one for color is a good idea. Also having a small touch up gun with a real small paint cup is handy as well.

Brands I have found to work well is Sata, Iwata, Devilbiss, Binks and others. Also I have seen inexpensive ones at tractor supply and eastwood.com

Basically you need to match the spray orifice size to the material you are spraying. The paint vendor should offer data sheets with proper specs to meet. Also you need a good sized 5hp or bigger air compressor with at least 30 gallon tank and moisture filters in the supply to your spray gun. Also you must wear a proper respirator like a 3M P95 for your lungs or they will get damaged from breathing the nasty chemicals. You will also need a tyvek paint suit to protect your skin and wear nitrile gloves.

 

Edited by mikekot3

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310-8 guy
2 minutes ago, mikekot3 said:

A HVLP (High volume low pressure) spray gun for primer and another one for color is a good idea. Also having a small touch up gun with a real small paint cup is handy as well.

Brands I have found to work well is Sata, Iwata, Devilbiss, Binks and others. Also I have seen inexpensive ones at tractor supply and eastwood.com

Basically you need to match the spray orifice size to the material you are spraying. The paint vendor should offer data sheets with proper specs to meet. Also you need a good sized 5hp or bigger air compressor with at least 30 gallon tank and moisture filters in the supply to your spray gun. Also you must wear a proper respirator like a 3M P95 for your lungs with get damaged from breathing the nasty chemicals. You will also need a tyvek paint suit to protect your skin and wear nitrile gloves.

 

That's a lot to take in but sounds reasonable... This sounds crazy but if you could do it right... Would spray paint work...? 

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Brian01

Here's my spray painted RJ

IMG_20151108_100416413.jpg

IMG_20151119_101621591.jpg

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mikekot3

Using rustoleum paint cans works okay which I have tried. But It takes forever to dry especially when it is cool outside. When it is 90 degrees it helps with paint drying faster.

I would suggest starting with the 40 dollar tractor supply setup and buy a 35 dollar 3M paint respirator and and a Tyvek suit for starters once you have the air compressor and inline moisture filter.

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310-8 guy
Just now, mikekot3 said:

Using rustoleum paint cans works okay which I have tried. But It takes forever to dry especially when it is cool outside. When it is 90 degrees it helps with paint drying faster.

I would suggest starting with the 40 dollar tractor supply setup and buy a 35 dollar 3M paint respirator and and a Tyvek suit for starters once you have the air compressor and inline moisture filter.

True 

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Brian01

Yes, I agree, if your gonna try n paint it in the near future, be sure you do it in a heated garage.

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310-8 guy
2 minutes ago, Brian01 said:

Here's my spray painted RJ

IMG_20151108_100416413.jpg

IMG_20151119_101621591.jpg

Holy crap! You sure that's sp? That looks professional! 

1 minute ago, Brian01 said:

Yes, I agree, if your gonna try n paint it in the near future, be sure you do it in a heated garage.

I'll have to wait till summer. I have maybe a cupple living room heaters I could use to warm it up fairly. 

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clip

Check out the Harbor Freight purple HVLP spray guns. They're surprisingly good quality for the price. I was doing some reading on paint forums and they're accepted to be the best budget option. Just remember air quality going in makes a huge difference, as does temperature and surface cleanliness. Make sure the air is dry and oil free and your compressor is big enough to keep up with the demand.

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310-8 guy
Just now, clip said:

Check out the Harbor Freight purple HVLP spray guns. They're surprisingly good quality for the price. I was doing some reading on paint forums and they're accepted to be the best budget option. Just remember air quality going in makes a huge difference, as does temperature and surface cleanliness. Make sure the air is dry and oil free and your compressor is big enough to keep up with the demand.

I have a 3.3 horse air compressor with a 20 gallon tank. I've never painted anything along these lines before. I'm really scared about really screwing things up. 

1448122001961-1880906517.jpg

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Brian01

The strategy when spray painting with rattle cans, is not to get carried away, several thin coats...if you try to just spray it all on there to cover, you will end up with runs, etc.

Edited by Brian01
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310-8 guy
55 minutes ago, clip said:

 

True 

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DougC
1 hour ago, Brian01 said:

Looks fine to me, just clean it up real good, be surprised what a difference it'll make

Wow. I gotta agree with Brian. Blow that tractor and mower deck off really good with compressed air, Wash with soap and water and a soft wash mitt. Dry it off and buff it out or pay  someone in your area that has some expertise with a buffer buff it for you.  Wax it and stand back. That baby would look brand new. If you have never painted before there is a lot more to it to do it right and have the results you want than most people think. That would put a smile on your face for this winter anyway and if the desire to paint it is still there, in the spring. Go for it.    :)

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310-8 guy
4 minutes ago, DougC said:

Wow. I gotta agree with Brian. Blow that tractor and mower deck off really good with compressed air, Wash with soap and water and a soft wash mitt. Dry it off and buff it out or pay  someone in your area that has some expertise with a buffer buff it for you.  Wax it and stand back. That baby would look brand new. If you have never painted before there is a lot more to it to do it right and have the results you want than most people think. That would put a smile on your face for this winter anyway and if the desire to paint it is still there, in the spring. Go for it.    

Oh I love cleaning this thing. Accually just got done driving it around. Just wondering how do you take off the deck? Is it really hard? 

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Brian01

I've never owned a 310 -8 so I couldn't really tell you how to remove the deck, but I can guarantee you it won't be hard...its a Wheel Horse, for cryin' out loud! lol

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310-8 guy
3 minutes ago, Brian01 said:

I've never owned a 310 -8 so I couldn't really tell you how to remove the deck, but I can guarantee you it won't be hard...its a Wheel Horse, for cryin' out loud! lol

Lol very true! I'm just hoping it isn't like the stupid mtd (made to die)  decks... 

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DougC

 

How to remove a mower deck

 

In instructional threads and videos by nylyon.

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310-8 guy
2 minutes ago, DougC said:

 

How to remove a mower deck

 

In instructional threads and videos by nylyon.

Is that a link? Sorry using a phone for all this 

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DougC
1 minute ago, 310-8 guy said:

Is that a link? Sorry using a phone for all this 

I was hoping that would take you to it but it is on the home page down a ways in Instructional Threads and Videos . It is a topic in there not a video.

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slammer302

The great thing about painting is if it doesn't come out good let it dry and sand it down and try it again!

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clip
20 hours ago, 310-8 guy said:

I have a 3.3 horse air compressor with a 20 gallon tank. I've never painted anything along these lines before. I'm really scared about really screwing things up. 

1448122001961-1880906517.jpg

 

Odds are you will probably screw up with an HVLP setup the first few times you use it. The good thing is, you can usually catch yourself before it gets too far and you don't have much rework. It seems simple but there are a lot of nuances to get down just right, such as air pressure going in, air pressure at the tip, air flow, paint flow (like the jet in a carb), fan pattern, droplet size,etc. I used a compressor about that size for a few years, and ended up adding a second and third tank for increased volume. It became a 70 gallon setup on a single cylinder compressor, which took forever to fill but the increased capacity made things a little better.

 

I'd tell you "don't try and learn on a project you love" but that'd be going against what I've always done. It's how I learned to paint and weld, all trial and error. I've messed up spray painting and HVLP before, and the HVLP process gives you much more control over the finished product so you know exactly how much paint you're putting on and what your fan pattern looks like. I say go for it!

 

 

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