Rusty B-80 Resurrection

[WHnoob 21]

I recently acquired a free B-80 that had been sitting outside for a number of years.  I forgot to check the exact model number but it is a 4-speed, making it a 1974 or 1975 based on the "Master Model List" (http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/wheel_horse_products_master_model_list.pdf).  It comes with a 36" rear discharge deck which apparently has been converted to side-discharge via a welded-on end from another deck.

I was told the engine (K181 8 HP) was unusable and indeed was seized due to rust, so initially the plan was to borrow its transmission for my C-160 while its 8-speed undergoes a rebuild (broken High-Low selector fork, leaky seals).  However upon pulling the head I found the piston was only ~3/8" from TDC and I was able to free it with some PB Blaster and a makeshift cheater bar on the flywheel.  The valves were both stuck open (possibly the original reason it began sitting) but I was able to free them up as well by tapping them.  It now turns pretty smoothly by hand so I think it may be easier to get this engine running than to do the transmission swap with the C-160.  I'd like to try this without doing a full rebuild but have some concerns (like breaking the connecting rod).  There is a slight ring of rust/carbon at the top of the cylinder sleeve (due to the position of the piston while it sat) but it doesn't seem to affect the piston travel and I think it is above the level of the top piston ring.  The rest of the cylinder sleeve looks smooth and shiny.  The piston rings may be stuck.  I'm not sure that I saw the compression release working (exhaust valve is supposed to open slightly at ~2/3 up the compression stroke).  Will the valves just get stuck again if I don't remove and clean/grind them?

Also the rest of the tractor is missing a few parts:
 - Gas tank has been replaced with a birds nest.  Local dealer quoted ~$140 for a new one, though I should be able to borrow the C-160's for testing.
 - Missing brake pedal and possibly the first linkage (pedal to jackshaft/lever)
 - Air cleaner cover and wingnut
 - Muffler
 - Lights (not really an issue, I'd rather rig up LED's anyway)

If I remember I will try to get some pictures (though they won't be pretty ) and post the exact model information.  Any advice on the engine or leads on the missing parts?

[slammer302 2,154]

I would pull the valves out and clean them its fairly easy 

and check that their set right

[oldredrider 2,547]

You may be a WH noob, but it sounds like you're not an engine noob. 
Any engine that has been setting for a while, especially in the weather, should be torn down and inspected. Completely. 
A ounce of prevention. ...

[JERSEYHAWG / Glenn 4,487]

 Best of luck with your project and wellcome to red square.

Glenn

Edited September 30, 2015 by JERSEYHAWG / Glenn

[Ed Kennell 35,627]

  NOOB.    You'll be amazed how easy it is to get these neglected horses running.    If she has fire and fuel, I'm sure you can make her run.

Post an ad in the "WANTED SECTION" for the parts you need.       Don't forget....

[AMC RULES 36,945]

[muz123 1,182]

Good luck with your project and welcome to 

[DennisThornton 4,769]

Lots of help here!  Just keep asking!
Welcome!

And indeed!  Don't forget we like pictures!

[KC9KAS 4,741]

, and

[953 nut 51,541]

      Like Ed, "Ekennell" said, fuel, spark and compression and you are good to go! I bought an early production 953 from Ed that has been setting around for a looooooooong time, a new coil and spark plug and a carburetor cleanup and it fired right up and runs great. I will be rebuilding the engine as a part of the total restoration of this , but I wanted to run it first to have some idea of the condition the motor is in, fortunately for me it has no issues. If I were you I would do the same.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[Ed Kennell 35,627]

Glad to hear she's running Dick.  Please start a thread on the restoration.  

FYI, Noob, here is a pic of what I dragged out of a drainage ditch down in West Virginia several years ago and with the help of several kind Red Square Members, had It delivered from the Big Show  in Pa.  to South Carolina where Dick is working his magic.   
  

[WHnoob 21]

Thanks for all the responses!  As promised (warned), I got some pictures today including a closeup of the top of the cylinder.  If you look closely you can see the mud wasp tubes between the fins on the head!  I think I will take Slammer's advice and at least clean the valves before attempting to run it.  I'm hoping to avoid any major disassembly at the moment since my workshop is an unholy mess, but may plan for a teardown once the C-160's tranny is repaired.

What do you guys think of the customized deck?  It has both rear and side discharge!  It is pretty well rusted through and missing some rollers but the spindles may be reusable.  I didn't notice any grease fittings on it but also didn't look that closely or take the belt cover off.

-Peter

[slammer302 2,154]

Looks like you have your hands full nothing a good cleaning can't fix.  the blades on the deck look like new besides all the rust.

[WHnoob 21]

Figured I'd post a small update since it's been a while.  I was able to pull the wheel hub with the damaged keyway using a hub from another transmission.  The axle keyway is pretty munged up (almost 2x wider than normal), though the hub doesn't look too bad.  And I got that exhaust nipple removed too.  Ended up cutting a slot into it with a cutoff wheel up close to the block and bent it inward with a cold chisel and hammer.  That was finally enough for the pipe wrench to turn it.

 

Next step is to repair the axle keyway and reattach the transmission (that way I can at least push it out of the way .  I'm leaning towards using some of the industrial axle repair epoxy to avoid splitting this tranny since I have the broken 8-speed from the C-160 to put in it eventually.  Then once I have a workbench cleared I can pull the engine off for its overhaul.

[Ed Kennell 35,627]

http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/56859-key-way-fix/#comment-525605

I don't know if welding is one of your skills, but here is a link to the post where I repaired an axle keyway by making a brass dummy key and then laying in metal around the key.

I did not remove the axle for the repair.  I reshaped the welded area with a grinder, a file, high spot bluing and the hub as a gage.

[WHnoob 21]

Wow that repair looks great!  And welding would seem to be the preferred method, though I've heard about the heat causing bending issues, etc.  Unfortunately welding is not currently one of my skills - I did about 2 inches of MIG in college metal shop but that's about it.  I'd like to learn but I'm guessing this would not be a great beginner project.

[Retired Wrencher 4,874]

 WHnoob   I had a C141 one time like that.  If you are not good at  and do not have a welder, I just used J.B. weld on it. shape it. Then tap hub back on for final shaping. It is still in service. Put key in 1st  let it set. Then put on hub.