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WNYPCRepair

Mig welding question

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bmsgaffer

just wondering, what's the faf about 220? over in mainland europe we have 240 mains, my drillpress, benchgrinder and welder run on 400

Over here our 110 or 120 is like your 240, it's everywhere but for the higher power stuff we have 220 like your 400 for better efficiency on the higher power stuff. But it's not as common in homes and may require  some wiring.

Phases make AC complicated but our 60hz is a little more efficient than 50 for running inductive things (welders, motors etc) so that's why we can still get by with 110v for most common stuff.

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PaulC

Brain I have a lot of welding experience and also experience with all the machines referenced in this thread so I will chime in. Return that harbor freight hunk of junk, flux cored wire stinks without a lot of power and the proper shielding gas. Whatever machine you buy make sure it has the ability to run shielding gas, if you really don't want to deal with shielding gas look for a stick welding machine. I would recommend picking up that 120v 140a Lincoln if you want to spend less dough and keep your capabilities on the smaller side. If you want higher capacity run your 220v line and look for a 250amp or better used machine, welding supply places like Haun or Praxair always have used machines. The difference between the Lincoln 140a and 180a is so minimal I think it would be a waste of your money.

Lincoln makes really good wire so I would get some of that, I think its called SureArc. We get our gases through Praxair here at work and they have a gas called Stargon its 90% Argon , 8% CO2, and 2% Oxygen, I recommend getting this mixture because with the added Oxygen it will burn hotter and up your welding capacity over just standard Argon no matter what size machine you go with. Same goes for welding aluminum if you ever get into that, we run a 75% Helium and 25% Argon mixture and its amazing how much hotter it burns then just plain Argon and that's for Tig and Mig.

Like others have said with the smaller machines they seem a little more finicky with the wire feed setting. I borrowed a Hobart handler we have at work to do some beefing up on my mustang this past spring and I was having a hell of a time getting it to weld good and Ive used it a lot so I know its a good capable little machine. Well it turned out that I had the wire feed just a smidge to high and once I realized it was like a totally different machine. If the feed is to slow youll get an arc flash that will burn back toward the tip and to fast youll get stubbing and jerkiness. That little 120v 140a Hobart and the Stargon gas will weld 3/16 steel no problem and I would even think you could do 1/4.

Good luck with whatever you go with and you can always reach out to me if you have questions. And if you end up with a smaller unit and then have something big to weld reach out to me there too because I could probably help you out and weld it for you considering were local to each other.

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WNYPCRepair

Thanks Paul, I appreciate it. I am 99% sure I am going to grab the Lincoln 140A, it's a little more than I want to spend, but the HF is junk. The 180A isn't worth the extra money, glad to hear someone else agree. 

 

I am amazed at the members here, I have had two local guys now offer to help, and it is really appreciated. I won't name the other member, he can take credit if he wants, but I'll just say again what a resource this forum and it's members are.

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953 nut
:text-yeahthat:             I have been helped by folks I never knew several times.
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JaysHorse

I have the cheap HF mig. Works perfect. I set the wire speed around 2 1/2, 3. The min max switch I leave on max. Just have to go slow and take your time. 

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DennisThornton

I have the cheap HF mig. Works perfect. I set the wire speed around 2 1/2, 3. The min max switch I leave on max. Just have to go slow and take your time. 

They can weld!  I picked mine up at a yard sale for $35 and I'm quite pleased with it.  Several have said to use Lincoln wire and not HF's so perhaps some do better it than others!  I do use Lincoln wire!

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WNYPCRepair

I have the cheap HF mig. Works perfect. I set the wire speed around 2 1/2, 3. The min max switch I leave on max. Just have to go slow and take your time. 

They can weld!  I picked mine up at a yard sale for $35 and I'm quite pleased with it.  Several have said to use Lincoln wire and not HF's so perhaps some do better it than others!  I do use Lincoln wire!

I played around with it a bit more the other day. I had been using the chart inside the lid for wire speed. Once I cut it wat down, it did work much better, but I would still occasionally lose the arc. Packed it up today, going to return it tomorrow and grab the Lincoln.

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DennisThornton

I have the cheap HF mig. Works perfect. I set the wire speed around 2 1/2, 3. The min max switch I leave on max. Just have to go slow and take your time. 

They can weld!  I picked mine up at a yard sale for $35 and I'm quite pleased with it.  Several have said to use Lincoln wire and not HF's so perhaps some do better it than others!  I do use Lincoln wire!

I played around with it a bit more the other day. I had been using the chart inside the lid for wire speed. Once I cut it wat down, it did work much better, but I would still occasionally lose the arc. Packed it up today, going to return it tomorrow and grab the Lincoln.

You should have no trouble finding a better welder, but I wouldn't want folks who could afford a HF but not a Big Brand Name to do without.  Practice is needed with any of them.  The worst welds I've ever seen by far were made by a dear friend.  I told him if he ever needed anything welded to let me know!  And I did do some welding for him but then he bought a Lincoln MIG and while he's still no welder he is much improved!  Man he was a lousy stick welder!  But a good machine helped him...

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WNYPCRepair

I have the cheap HF mig. Works perfect. I set the wire speed around 2 1/2, 3. The min max switch I leave on max. Just have to go slow and take your time. 

They can weld!  I picked mine up at a yard sale for $35 and I'm quite pleased with it.  Several have said to use Lincoln wire and not HF's so perhaps some do better it than others!  I do use Lincoln wire!

I played around with it a bit more the other day. I had been using the chart inside the lid for wire speed. Once I cut it wat down, it did work much better, but I would still occasionally lose the arc. Packed it up today, going to return it tomorrow and grab the Lincoln.

You should have no trouble finding a better welder, but I wouldn't want folks who could afford a HF but not a Big Brand Name to do without.  Practice is needed with any of them.  The worst welds I've ever seen by far were made by a dear friend.  I told him if he ever needed anything welded to let me know!  And I did do some welding for him but then he bought a Lincoln MIG and while he's still no welder he is much improved!  Man he was a lousy stick welder!  But a good machine helped him...

 

I think I should have kept the HF to work on thin material, LOL

I practiced a few minutes today and on thin stuff it was burning through. Need some thinner wire I think, and I also have to get gas, I think flux core must burn hotter. 

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DennisThornton

Flux is ideal for my use because I don't have to lug around a tank which in my case makes me tolerate the downsides of flux.  Fluxed wire is also better in the wind but that's all the advantages I can think of.  Messy cleanup!  Harder to see.  For stationary use be sure to go shielded gas!

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mikekot3

I would get a welding screen to shield others nearby from eye damage from the arc flash and it helps when using shielding gas to keep the wind from blowing it from the weld puddle. Also get a welding jacket, welding gloves and a auto darkening helmet to prevent damage to your eyes. If after welding your eyes feel like there is sand in them you have burned your eyes.

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WNYPCRepair

I am in my garage, so no one else can see me, and normally wind isn't an issue.  I have gloves and the helmet, I should look into the jacket. 

My my eyes always feel like there is sand in them, I have clogged tear ducts I believe

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Niagara D

Flux core takes higher voltage to burn. Look into a c25 gas which is 75% argon 25% co2. Also for solid wire you will want an .023 diameter which I have used on everything from 22 ga all the way to 1/4"

In regards to the welding jacket a car hart or equivalent jacket or a heavy sweat shirt is usually enough so long as it doesn't have frayed spots. Those will light up quick

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WNYPCRepair

On my to do list when vacation is over. 

When end I was a teenager, fringe bottom jeans were all the rage. My best friend set himself on fire. Luckily I noticed and put him out.  

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mikekot3

Stallion brand is a good welding jacket and glove company. They are available at every welding store I have visited. Not that expensive either.
I have the full coat version and the one that has an open back for when it is hot outside.

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WNYPCRepair

Well, I am definitely improving. If I had more time to practice.......


I had an office chair I paid $300 for, because the cheap ones kept breaking. They have these cheap white metal bushings in the tilt mechanism that break, then the chair leans to one side. I dragged it out in the garage and welded the tilt mechanism together. I never used the tilt anyway. I got a very nice bead, and good penetration. 

Then I welded two pieces of bar stock into a piece of angle iron. I cut through across the weld, and it looked nice and solid. Tried to break the cut off piece with a hammer, and it bent above the weld. Then I welded the cut off piece back on, and ground the bead off, and it looks like a solid piece of metal, and again, couldn't break it with a hammer. 

Need to to find some good scrap to practice on. 

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WNYPCRepair

OK, so it appears the best tip I got here was to get a tank of gas. I've only used it to run 3 or 4 beads about 2 inches long, but the difference is like night and day. I almost look like I know what I am doing!

 

I have a question though. Everything I have read says to set up a fan to blow away the welding fumes (which I haven't done yet), but then it also says to use flux core wire for outside welding so the shielding gas doesn't blow away. I'm confused, how can I set up a fan and still use gas?

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953 nut

A small fan to pull the gases away is a good idea, outdoors you will want to have a windbreak around you on the windward side. The whole idea is for you to not breath the fumes and have the shield gas protect your work.

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C-101plowerpower

you can weld outside with the shielding gas and without a windbreak, you'll have to turn up the pressure/flow of the gas tho

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PaulC

Glad to hear you are getting somewhere!! If you are welding clean material besides galvanized you don't need to be to concerned about the gases, don't sit right in the cloud sucking them in but don't be overly concerned about it either especially if your doing this on a hobby type basis. When I was in the shop and the guys in the shop now here at work weld sometimes all day and we don't have any extraction equipment. If you ever end up welding galvanized material that's a different story because the off gases from that are terrible so don't breath those in, and also welding anything that has any paint on it that starts to burn is nasty too. You could even try something as simple as a dust mask while you are running beads.

As far as material to mess with try any of the local scrap yards. Good luck and cant wait to see a build thread of some sort from you welding things together! :handgestures-thumbupright:

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WNYPCRepair

Glad to hear you are getting somewhere!! If you are welding clean material besides galvanized you don't need to be to concerned about the gases, don't sit right in the cloud sucking them in but don't be overly concerned about it either especially if your doing this on a hobby type basis. When I was in the shop and the guys in the shop now here at work weld sometimes all day and we don't have any extraction equipment. If you ever end up welding galvanized material that's a different story because the off gases from that are terrible so don't breath those in, and also welding anything that has any paint on it that starts to burn is nasty too. You could even try something as simple as a dust mask while you are running beads.

As far as material to mess with try any of the local scrap yards. Good luck and cant wait to see a build thread of some sort from you welding things together! :handgestures-thumbupright:


Thanks, I knew about welding galvanized. I'm going to pick up a good respirator for dust, painting, etc. I thought I had a nose bleed last time I painted, turns out it was sunrise red. :)

I didn't realize scrap yards sold metal, I thought they just bought it.  

 

I hope to be good enough to build something soon. Trying to figure out what I need first.  :)

 

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PaulC

Glad to hear you are getting somewhere!! If you are welding clean material besides galvanized you don't need to be to concerned about the gases, don't sit right in the cloud sucking them in but don't be overly concerned about it either especially if your doing this on a hobby type basis. When I was in the shop and the guys in the shop now here at work weld sometimes all day and we don't have any extraction equipment. If you ever end up welding galvanized material that's a different story because the off gases from that are terrible so don't breath those in, and also welding anything that has any paint on it that starts to burn is nasty too. You could even try something as simple as a dust mask while you are running beads.

As far as material to mess with try any of the local scrap yards. Good luck and cant wait to see a build thread of some sort from you welding things together! :handgestures-thumbupright:


Thanks, I knew about welding galvanized. I'm going to pick up a good respirator for dust, painting, etc. I thought I had a nose bleed last time I painted, turns out it was sunrise red. :)

I didn't realize scrap yards sold metal, I thought they just bought it.  

 

I hope to be good enough to build something soon. Trying to figure out what I need first.  :)

 

Yea got to watch with painting big time especially if the paint has hardener in it.

Not sure where your located but I know for sure Ed Arnold scrap out in Pembroke sells stuff because Ive bought from them before and I would think Twin Village on Broadway in Depew would too? Consider all the local steel suppliers too, you will pay a bit more but it will be nice fresh clean steel to work with.

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Brian01

I have one of these welders. Your metal has to be very clean i always grind were i plan on welding first and make sure my ground is good i set my tension-er  kinda loose and i will also do a couple spot weld to get the metal hot then lay it on. It really only works good on thin metal like sheet meatal and 1/8" steel.   

I'm with Bob on you get what you pay for when it comes to welders but i would rather have my crappy welder then no welder 

I agree with slammer, when using ANY wire feed welder, the metal must be clean and with no rust or paint...always use a grinder with a buffing Wheel and clean the surface to be welded thoroughly before Welding...makes things go much smoother, better penetration and your weld will look much better.

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mikekot3

Also Do NOT spray any parts with Chlorinated Brake cleaner and then weld it will create Phosgene gas which can kill you.

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WNYPCRepair

Getting lots of practice.  :)

 

I had a 48" deck with a couple of holes rusted through, so I decided to patch it. Turns out, the entire deck is so badly rusted, there isn't much metal left. I'm too far into it to give up now, so the underside of this deck will look like a patchwork quilt when I am done. But I am getting better at welding sheet metal.

 

I ran out of gas though, so now I am back to flux core until Monday. Ugh.
 

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