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dewdew

D160 hydro

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dewdew

I have a leak in my hydro pump it appears to be coming from the seal at the front of the pump. Is it possible to replace this without pulling the pump out?

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daveoman1966

Try this....  1) remove the connection -to-engine link enough to thoroughly clean off the pump shaft. 2) find a short piece of PVC pipe to fit over the shaft and drive the old seal in about 3/8 or 1/2" or so...3) using that same PVC, push a NEW SEAL right over top of the old seal, without removing the old.  The new seal should slightly recess the edge of the housing..
If you can't drive it in 3/8" or so...you'll have to pick it out.  That is much easier that tearing dwon the whole thing, just to replace the seal.
I suggest this because...if it works, what an enormous work and time saver.  If it doesn't little time is lost in trying.... 
There is a shaft bearing, of course, but it is in at least an inch from the end of the housing.  To drive the old seal further into the housing...nothing wrong with that...IMHO, that is.  
These pics are of a Sundstrand pump in a D-180 that I rebuilt a couple years ago.  The TIMKEN seal 48021 for about $7 is a perfect match.
    

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Edited by daveoman1966
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Sea-Duck51

Thanks for the info,mine is leaking as well,placing an order for Timken Seal and hope that solves the problem:D

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dewdew

Ditto!! Thanks a lot I'll let you know how it goes

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dewdew

Should I check my oil level when it's warm or cold? The manual does not specify

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tommyg

Should I check my oil level when it's warm or cold? The manual does not specify

I really don't think it matters. I check mine cold normally. I suppose after you've run it for a bit, the level will be lower until the oil from the pump drains back down to the transmission.

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dewdew

You are correct I asked a service guy at our local toro dealer

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Sea-Duck51

I got the seal but now can anyone suggest the best way to repair,do I need to pull the pump out or?,was thinking about un bolting and sliding the motor forward,anyone done this and have some thoughts,thx.

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Niagara D

From my experience trying to get at the pump it's easier to pull the motor than to pull the pump.

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Sea-Duck51

I think your right,after studying all my options I'm going to pull the motor or at least slide it forward,don't really want to remove mufflers so thinking of unbolting the front shroud frame,just need enough room to get the coupler off and tap the new seal in.

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Niagara D

Yes to avoid muffler removal you can take off the hood and front support then you can slide the motor as far forward as you need. I pulled a pup out by taking apart the column and after realized a better way. I have to replace the o rings on the line set at the pump on one of mine this winter and I feel it's likely going to be easier to just yank the engine to get it done.

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Sea-Duck51

Yes to avoid muffler removal you can take off the hood and front support then you can slide the motor as far forward as you need. I pulled a pup out by taking apart the column and after realized a better way. I have to replace the o rings on the line set at the pump on one of mine this winter and I feel it's likely going to be easier to just yank the engine to get it done.

You are absolutely right,bolts that are behind the muffler pipes are a bit tricky but was able to take the support off and went ahead and pulled the motor out of the way,seal should be here any day and then the reassemble fun begins,will give me a chance to clean up the frame,snow is starting to fly today and garage is un-heated with a dirt floor,just bought the place and didn't get a floor poured before weather turned so have to wait till spring.

image.jpg

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Sea-Duck51

One step forward two steps back...ugh so after removing the old seal which btw wasn't difficult,it wouldn't drive in so out it came,prepped for the new seal,emery cloth and as I started to drive it in the rubber lip caught on a burr and tried to roll over,used a pick and fixed it but now have decided after throughly filing,sanding the offending shaft have ordered another seal,going to drive the first one in and install another,two is always better than one,on a side note discovered one of the studs on the intake was boogered so ended up taking off the mufflers,came off like easy as can be,oh well so much for removing the front support,least it will go back together much easier!.

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DennisThornton

Even with two seals one of those seal lips needs to ride on a nicely polished full diameter portion of that shaft or you will still or very soon still have a leak.  Others could chime in as well but I'd be final polishing with 400 grit or finer.

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Sea-Duck51

Even with two seals one of those seal lips needs to ride on a nicely polished full diameter portion of that shaft or you will still or very soon still have a leak.  Others could chime in as well but I'd be final polishing with 400 grit or finer.

I polished it,that's one reason I decided to remove the old seal you could she all the crud and uneven surface,what got me was right at the end of the splines before the shaft where the spacer rode it had boogered that up,thought I had it smooth but only took one little lip to catch it,won't happen again,got it filed smooth for the next,might have been o.k but not taking the chance after all this work R&R motor.thanks for the advice.

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Sea-Duck51

Interesting side note,when the guy at Napa looked up the seal he asked if it was for an old Ramler or Ambassador,didn't realize AMC utilized their auto parts on the horse but makes sense.

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