After a year of getting my garage straightened out, I'm finally restoring and rewiring my 78 D250. You guys were very helpful in getting a lot or research material. I've looked through all the manuals for the D250 and only found wiring schematics/diagrams with a generator and separate regulator. I need the schematic for the D250 with an Alternator with built in voltage regulator. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Well my '73 auto 18 was running great yesterday until the engine died and quit. Next I see smoke rising from under the hood. There was short in the wire harness and wire was burned right to the copper. I reached in and was able to stop the tractor from goin up in smoke. I just ripped out the shorted wire harness and it stopped. So i took out the battery and went to work.
I looked at the wiring diagram, which seems straightforward until you try to match it up with the ignition switch.
After spending a couple of hours rewiring, I can not figure out which wire goes where in the ignition.
Can any one help me as I am totally at a loss. The letters on electrical diagram around the ignition sketch don't match anything i see on the actual ignition.
Would anyone be able to give me a hand. I don't need to compound problems by experimenting with wire combinations on the ignition.
Very grateful for any help.
I have a toro whreel horse 210-5 and it had a b/s 10 hp engine with a broken valve, so I removed the engine. After removing the engine, I installed an engine from a john deere 160 lawn tractor. The engine is a fb460 kawasaki. I left the wiring attached to the kawasaki engine and installed the kawasaki and wiring on the toro wheel horse.Everything bolted up and fit in ok. But! when I turn the key on. nothing happens. not even a click. I'm sure it is the neutral switch on the toro wheel horse. I took some pictures to explain what I am talking about. I need to know if someone out there knows how to wire up the purple wire and the yellow wire from the neutral swiitch, to the new power takeoff and relay. I put the old wiring from the toro wheel horse and laid it on the top of the kawasaki motor and tied the purple wire and yellow wire to the original way it was on the old wiring so you would know where they went on the pto and relay switch. the new installed pto has different colored wiring which confuses me. And there is no relay switch on the new wiring that is installed.
Hoping for some help, advice, anything to make my months-long mission to get my 520-H running a success story.
Inherited the tractor from the previous owner of my home. He rarely used it -- preferred his zero-turn -- and advised that I always keep it on the float charger when not in use. I used it for one month's worth of cuts last summer, and then began having problems. At first, the engine was surging. It would fluctuate from high to low rpm with the choke off. However, if I played with the choke (thereby getting way too much fuel and oil into my system), it would run for at least the rest of that cut. After having to keep it running with the choke, it eventually stopped turning over AT ALL.
I did the general maintenance: changed both plugs, dropped the oil, drained the fuel, replaced the fuel filter, removed all of the visible (and accessible) electrical connections and cleaned them up. Bought a new battery as well, and the tractor started right up. Sounded better than ever. For one cut. By the end of the cut, I had to start messing with the choke again to keep it running.
So, I cleaned the carb, replaced the fuel filter (because it was making a strange knocking sound), cleaned the (new-ish) plugs, bench tested the solenoid, changed the solenoid. When I connected the battery and went to start, I got (what sounded like) very little power to the starter. Loud clicking/rattling sounds ensued, so I brought the batt to Autozone to check the juice. It was at 50%, and it was only one month old. They charged it, and when I reconnected the batt...nada. Nothing. The same old clicking, metal-thrashing-like sound/s. I've tried to jump the solenoid directly -- same result. I've bypassed the solenoid and put all connections directly to the starter -- same result. I've downloaded as many Wheel Horse PDFs as I could find, including the demys guide. Now, I'm thinking about the regulator. Thinking about it as it sits in front of my laptop. It's an Onan 14v 20a. Two ACs and one B+ connections. I'm really hoping it's not the stator and/or the starter. So, any advice on how I should proceed would be greatly appreciated. I have experience with small engines from my years taking apart and racing dirt bikes, but things are just a bit more challenging to access with this beast. But, from EVERYTHING that I have read/heard, a working/running WH will be well worth all of my effort.
Sorry for the long post. I am an English teacher : )
After checking out my C-160 and rebuilding the carb, I am now working on the wiring.
I did a search on re-wiring and found a lot of really good information on members re-doing their tractors.
So here are some photos and comments....
Special crimpers for the female treminals that fit inot the Packard 56 connectors.
Purchased items for the re-wire job
Bought "Packard 56" connectors in packages of 5. Bought 5, 4, 2 and 1 position connectors. I am always needing good quality connectors for something.
Various colors of wire.
This is what needed replaced.
Hard to see, but all wiring and connectors are complete and now I need to fasten the wire harness to the frame.