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82Caddy

Project: D160

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pfrederi

30 w in the motor.

Most likely 10w-30 or 10w-40 in the hydro...but check the color of the fluid in there first.  Some sundstrands had ATF (cherry ed) ( I think all the Ds used the motor oil..but better safe than sorry as they do not mix well.

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82Caddy

Drained the old oil out...what little of it there was in the engine. There was even less in the rear end. 

Pulled the the rear tire and hub off...

axle is a bit chewed up from the set screw.  The good news is the keyway looks mint, just need a hub and axle key. 

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82Caddy

Discovered there are more then a few leaks in this rear end... Took the pressure washer to it and got it the transmission all cleaned up. Hopefully that'll help me track down where it's leaking from. 


Found another leak tonight as well. Seems as though the float bowl is leaking. I'll just add it to the list of things to order once I figure out where/why the rear end is leaking from. 

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82Caddy

Potential part out coming.  The rear end casing appears to be cracked and was boogered up with some jb weld material around the drain plug.  Going to pull the transmission out and see how bad it really is.  Amazingly enough the tractor moved just fine, just leaked oil...everywhere.  I initially thought it was from grime/poor oil changes over the years but I was wrong.

sad-box-man.jpg

 

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pfrederi

Potential part out coming.  The rear end casing appears to be cracked and was boogered up with some jb weld material around the drain plug.  Going to pull the transmission out and see how bad it really is.  Amazingly enough the tractor moved just fine, just leaked oil...everywhere.  I initially thought it was from grime/poor oil changes over the years but I was wrong.

sad-box-man.jpg

 




Sorry to hear that.  From your description sound like a bolt sheared off in the differential and got crunched against the bottom of case cracking it.

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pacer

The rear end casing appears to be cracked and was boogered up with some jb weld material around the drain


Yes, unfortunately that is fairly common - WH goofed when they put grade 5 bolts in the diff, one would shear off with a piece dropping in bottom and the gear rotating around would collide with it and push/break out the cast iron case. That happened to my D-180. I decided to give a try at brazing the - many - cracks up (didnt have any thing to lose!) First attempt still had a few leaks, went back and that time had success (well, I do have a little seep:sad:) So if you feel adventuresome make a try at brazing it. Or better yet if you have, or have access to, a tig welder then do that.

You ARE running into a few problems on that thing!

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82Caddy

I didn't get anything done last night so no useful updates.

Im a little torn about what to do with this. Has a solid running 16hp kohler. Float bowl leaks but that's an easy fix. 

Steering is in need of a rebuild. 

The hydro components work, just leak oil everywhere and the case appears to be busted. 

I have a TIG welder so do I take the time to fix this gear case or try and find another one to swap in. 

On another thought, there is another d series semi close to me with ag tires w/ weights, 3 pt, rear pto, but the hydraulic components don't work and the engine is missing. Seller says the steering box is tight as well. Asking 250$, and 4 hours of travel time. 

I'm not sure what I want to do at this point. 

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bmsgaffer

Sounds to me like you got 2 marginal D's with enough parts to make one good one! And a PTO and 3 point on top of that...

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82Caddy

I only have one d series tractor that I can sell the engine out of to cover the cost that I have into it at this point and walk away...the pump is good, so is the hydro cylinders, wheels are in ok shape (need blasted and painted) so I'd be ok on parting the tractor out.;

The other one isn't mine, its listed for sale, but has many parts that could potentially be used to build one good tractor.

I'm not sure I want to spend the winter rebuilding a tractor or doing other things.

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82Caddy

Finally got the trans pulled...

20363657444_82d5dd760f_k.jpg

Looks like someone has been in here before...I think I'm going to have to go check out that other parts tractor and see how the trans case is on it.:(

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82Caddy

Ripped the transmission apart...

Found these in the diff:

20980143212_64429a2946_k.jpg

Gears look spectacular so that's good news.  Most of the bearings look good as well.  100% will need another axle for the left/drivers side of the gear box.

Top left corner thing is bused, parking brake related?  Also center needle bearing is missing pieces.  What is the best way to remove these?  Do I punch out plug on out side of the transmission and press the bearing out or some other voodoo magic.

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The case was repaired once.  You can see where it was welded and the gasket mating surfaces aren't perfectly flat or the welds cracked causing the leaking.  More good news is that it looks repairable.  I don't have the time/ability to clean the case the way it needs to be to properly prep this to be repaired.  So it'll be going to the machine shop to be cleaned before attempting to repair the broken and damaged surfaces.

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ericj

you can use a C series trans in your D series tractor. i once had a guy rebuild my D 160 pump with C series pump and the rear housings are the same, since you have it apart you can find a C series hydro rear off a parts tractor and rebuild your D, or a D with a 3 point and rear pto for $ 250.00 is a great buy the 3 point alone goes for that. good luck





eric j 

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82Caddy

Thanks for the info Eric, but I found another D-series trans case in good shape.  Should be here in a few days.  Need to track down another axle and hub as I've determined this one is complete crap and should be replaced as long as I have this thing opened up.

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WNYPCRepair

Those are spare bolts, in case you drop one while you are working. 

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82Caddy

Those bolts were in the differential holding it together. 

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WNYPCRepair

Those bolts were in the differential holding it together. 

Ah, I thought you meant they were floating around loose

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82Caddy

I wasn't very clear where those bolts came from. 

Found another interesting tidbit about this tractor. The steering was terrible. Turns out one bolts holding the steering box were loose and the one is broken off inside the housing. I'm not sure if there should be two or three bolts holding the steering box in place but once the one bolt was tightened up the steering improved significantly. 

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Niagara D

There should be 3 bolts holding your steering box in place

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82Caddy

good info. Thanks!

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82Caddy

Been looking for some rebuild parts, and I haven't been able to located the seal that goes between the two case halves. Anybody have a suggestion where to find that or do I need to make my own? Same for some of the other paper gaskets. 

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brandonozz

It's amazing how many of these D's have sheered the bolts in the trans.  I bought my D when the owner had the bolt break and cracked the trans.  When I purchased the tractor it came with a spare trans and it too had a broken case that had been repaired.  Went thru the rear end and reassembled with grade 9 bolts as others have and it's working good today.  pain to get going but since it came with 3 PT, PTO and a FEL I guess it was worth the trouble :-)

I bought the gasket for the case halves at Toro a couple of years back - should still have them. They have the washers/o rings for the mannifold as well.  I made the gasket for the drive motor from gasket material.
Brandon

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82Caddy

Well, I bought a parts tractor tonight. No engine and hacked up wiring harness but otherwise fairly complete. Looks like it started life as a d200 1-0360-9 variety. Seller says it worked great until there was a pop and no more motion from the tractor. 3 point was still responsive he said. 

Trans sounds like marbles when rolling, but doesn't leak anything. Took a few tries to get the hydraulics to release.  

Good thing is the axles/hubs look great, homemade wheel weights from a weight bench set, has pto, 3 point, newer ag tires,good no rips toro seat with armrests and the steering is rediculously responsive. I think I did alright for 200$.  I'll get some daylight pictures in the morning. 

Now im torn which chassis to build for this. Both need rear end work and I'd like the id plate to match but that doesn't really matter. Seems like lots of work to swap the 3 point/pto and steering into the other. 

also how does one remove the steering wheel on this thing? I don't want to wreck the cover thing   

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82Caddy

So this is going to happen too...

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I'll try to update with pictures once I start putting parts back together.

Also trying to track down a snowblower for a D series is proving to be difficult. :(

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JackC
<<also how does one remove the steering wheel on this thing?>>

Try dynamite.  I tried and gave up.  Some have actually done it. Some cut the steering wheel off some cut the steering shaft and then repair or replace.  Be very very surprised if it comes off.  Next thing I may try is to put a nut on the end of the shaft in the center of the steering wheel, then something under the steering wheel itself and then pound down on the shaft by hitting the nut.  I believe there is tool to do that on eBay. A torch may come in handy also.  I soaked it with all kinds of penetrating fluids with no success.

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82Caddy

I'm trying with one of these tools right now, yep harbor freight at its finest...lol

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Also learned why the trans was all locked up on the parts tractor...turns out the parking brake was engaged somehow thanks to the sloppy forward/reverse lever allowing it to slide between the parking brake and the forward/reverse action.  Plot thickens on what to do with these tractors.  Contemplating putting my 16hp kohler into the d200 chassis (swapping the dash id plates) and building the d160 chassis up with a snow blower for my dad and keeping the d200 with 3pt, pto and building a loader for myself.  Too many options, it's starting to make my head hurt.

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