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JPWH

Hanks 854 rebuild

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WHX??

I agree with Ranger...looks cool  with the black Hank....make it your own!:handgestures-thumbupright:

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AMC RULES

:text-yeahthat:  I dig it too.  :text-+1:

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Jake Kuhn

Looking great Hank!

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JPWH
On 2/10/2016 at 7:39 PM, WHX6 said:

 

Thanks guys. It will not be show quality but a sturdy light duty worker with new clothes.

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JPWH

I checked for transmission leaks and there are none so I added the rest of the parts that I had painted. Maybe it will warm up in the next few days so I can paint some more. KIMG0173.thumb.jpg.954da9743dd8ec8a03032

I also shot some pb blaster on the steering wheel shaft that has been under pressure for about 3 days now.

KIMG0155.thumb.jpg.f4799d5dd8a93cb34c3a1

Edited by Hank01
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Aldon

That's looking Sharp Hank!

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953 nut
2 hours ago, Hank01 said:

the steering wheel shaft that has been under pressure for about 3 days now.

Hank, have you tried using a pneumatic impact wrench on the puller/ The vibration seems to make them work better. 

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JPWH
7 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Hank, have you tried using a pneumatic impact wrench on the puller/ The vibration seems to make them work better. 

I did. My son brought one of those bearing puller set ups as well after I broke my first puller.

I called the one machine shop where I live and he does not have a press so I did a little digging in my scrap metal and decided to build me one for pressing steering wheels.

 It has become personal with this particular steering wheel so I figured I will torture it for a while as it watches me build a press.LOL

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JERSEYHAWG /  Glenn
4 hours ago, Hank01 said:

I did. My son brought one of those bearing puller set ups as well after I broke my first puller.

I called the one machine shop where I live and he does not have a press so I did a little digging in my scrap metal and decided to build me one for pressing steering wheels.

 It has become personal with this particular steering wheel so I figured I will torture it for a while as it watches me build a press.LOL

That's right, show em who the boss is. They are stubborn.

 

Glenn

Edited by JERSEYHAWG / Glenn
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JPWH

That rust weld is some durable stuff.

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rjg854

Did you take the roll pin out? :ychain:

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JPWH
2 hours ago, Ranger13148 said:

Did you take the roll pin out? :ychain:

I did and the one out of the Raider and have been using it that way. It's still holding.

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Aldon
11 hours ago, Hank01 said:

 My son brought one of those bepuller set ups as well after I broke my first puller.

 

 It has become personal with this particular steering wheel so I figured I will torture it for a while as it watches me build a press.LOL

Been there...Done that. Absolutely have empathy for the war your currently engaged in. I broke at least 3 pullers and a few bolts last year which drove me to buy the monster hydraulic set up.

 

Your mileage may differ but when I finally got the part free u was on cloud nine for at least a day. Wife already knew I was a bit off in head. I'm sure that my enthusiasm only cemented her opinion:-)

 

I wish you luck !

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DennisThornton

I'm thinking a torch, maybe even a propane while under tension.  Or, if you can arrange it to get a large steel block under it and a serious smack with a big hammer might pop it off, sort of like popping a tie rod out.

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Retired Sparky
On 7/25/2015 at 10:24 PM, Hank01 said:

I finally got the transmission  apart. What a mess. It appears I will need to find alot of parts. I'll get it cleaned up and see what it really looks like. Can anyone tell what transmission this is.  NCM_0087.thumb.JPG.2a48bd30afffbccd2c12dNCM_0086.thumb.JPG.e3674e5d078d9d01582a8NCM_0088.thumb.JPG.3dc9ce2f457147eafd7bd

 

 

                 OMG. So what comes next. Do you soak them in hopes to put hem back into service, or do you order all new.  I've never seen a gear box in such a state of corrosion.  I'm in awe of some of you guys.  :handgestures-thumbupright:

 

 

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JPWH
21 minutes ago, Retired Sparky said:

 

 

                 OMG. So what comes next. Do you soak them in hopes to put hem back into service, or do you order all new.  I've never seen a gear box in such a state of corrosion.  I'm in awe of some of you guys.  :handgestures-thumbupright:

 

 

I ended up using the input drive, shift rails, one small gear and the axles. My son had one tore down on a shelf so I got the housing and gears from that one and a gear from a RS member. All other bearings and seals new.

54 minutes ago, DennisThornton said:

I'm thinking a torch, maybe even a propane while under tension.  Or, if you can arrange it to get a large steel block under it and a serious smack with a big hammer might pop it off, sort of like popping a tie rod out.

I have tried all that.This has been going on and off for a few months now. Good way to relieve stress.LOL

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JERSEYHAWG /  Glenn

Hank. my steering wheel battle mode. from mild to wild before it popped off.

 

Glenn

 

 

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DennisThornton
1 hour ago, Hank01 said:

I ended up using the input drive, shift rails, one small gear and the axles. My son had one tore down on a shelf so I got the housing and gears from that one and a gear from a RS member. All other bearings and seals new.

I have tried all that.This has been going on and off for a few months now. Good way to relieve stress.LOL

Well then, hotter torch and/or bigger hammer.  It will come out with sufficient direction.

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DennisThornton
51 minutes ago, DennisThornton said:

Well then, hotter torch and/or bigger hammer.  It will come out with sufficient direction.

I think that very often the details are overlooked when advice is given.  Heat will help remove lots of things that are stuck.  But folks will say I heated it and it stayed stuck.  Didn't work!  I have no memory of anything that stayed stuck after I heated sufficiently (but then my memory sometimes helps me with things I want to forget and recently all too often with things I want to remember too!)  Anyway, heat is not the same as HEAT!  Moderate heat often just doesn't work with really stuck stuff so HEAT needs to be applied.  Cherry red and some force will remove about anything but cherry red isn't necessary all the time and often the whole port doesn't have to be cherry red.  If one side of a nut, or collar or whatever is heated red it expands the whole which really improves the odds of removal.  Usually a shaft can be persuaded to move right then, sometimes waiting until the red heat is gone will still work.  Too easy to damage parts when they are red and quite forge-able but with care...

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buckrancher

many times I have heated a stuck part to cherry red and allow it to cool and then it will come apart easy as the heat carbonizes the rust between them

 

Brian

 

The early steering wheels that have the gear pinned on the shaft I remove the gear with a pin punch and put the wheel and shaft in a 20 ton hyd. press

Edited by buckrancher
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JPWH
4 hours ago, Retired Sparky said:
20 minutes ago, buckrancher said:

many times I have heated a stuck part to cherry red and allow it to cool and then it will come apart easy as the heat carbonizes the rust between them

 

Brian

 

The early steering wheels that have the gear pinned on the shaft I remove the gear with a pin punch and put the wheel and shaft in a 20 ton hyd. press

Thanks for the size of press. I have a 20 ton bottle jack I plan to use as my press.

Hank

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953 nut

Thinking outside the box, how about pulling the shaft as Brian suggest and putting the steering wheel end into an "E-Tank" and letting it dissolve the rust for you? I know that this isn't near as much fun as using a BFH and lots of heavy duty hydraulic pressure, but it could do the job.

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JPWH

I let it soak for about a week last summer when I first built the E tank. I figure the shaft is in the steering wheel about 11/4" and is probably rust all the way thru which has created a marriage with a very solid bond. I think I am going to enjoy this divorce one way or another. :)

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Aldon

I've never done the electro tank thing.

 

Would a soak in the tank remove the rest seizing it together?

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953 nut

Another option comes to mind; some time ago Ed Kennell did a post about pulling a stuck hitch pin. He drilled a few holes in the gap between the pin and the transmission case and put PB Blaster in the drilled holes, that allowed deeper penetration. give it a try and if it works you owe @ekennell a royalty for his patented technique. :ychain:

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