Jump to content
Bach-Ed

mowing and how do I aim?

Recommended Posts

Bach-Ed

I was out using my 857 mowing and started to wonder how good are my asumptions.  My normal practice is to use the inside edge of the front tire as the way to align with the previous cut area.  But this means I am not cutting as wide a swath as I could each pass.  My logic is the front tire pushes the grass down so that it will not be cut properly.   But if that is not a valid concept I'm "losing" several inches of cut.  So what is your opinion, am I making a lot of extra trips atound the lawn?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut
The more overlap you have the more seat time you get, may want to half-lap and get even more seat time!  :woohoo:
  • Like 7

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
daveoman1966

Whether a 42 or 48" deck, the 'baffles' on the bottom side of the deck, along with the angle end of the blades are designed to create a vacuum to 'stand up' the grass after your front tire/wheel has ran over and packed it down.  In effect, a wind tunnel or tornado (for lack of a better word) is created under the deck within the baffles to cut grass evenly.  This works quite well in dry grass, but is compromised when cutting wet or extremely tall grass. 
So, you are losing efficiency by 're-cutting' as you described.  With my 48" deck, I guide the OUTSIDE EDGE of the front wheel to 4 or 5 inches INSIDE the prior cut.  When turning a close radius, close that path by the width of front tire so as not to leave an uncut strip.
    

Edited by daveoman1966
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
AMC RULES
The more overlap you have the more seat time you get, may want to half-lap and get even more seat time!  :woohoo:

A couple beers before you get in the seat, another for the cup holder...
then stab it and go. Pretty sure you'll have all kinds of overlap going on
.  
:lol:

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
shallowwatersailor

I think that it is done more by "feel." I use three different tractors to cut my grass. They are my C-105 with a 42" RD, C-145 with a 48" SD, and a 518xi with a 48" SD. After the show, the 523Dxi will join the mix with a 52" SD. It depends on how tall the grass is. I try to cut it every five-six days but the weather has not been cooperatve. With three different (four) horsepowers, I have found that the C-145 will bog down the easiest in tall grass. It probably would not if I had a 42" SD or RD on it, Right now the grass has gotten taller than normal due to the rain so it could be interesting tomorrow when I get a chance to cut it 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Racinbob
The more overlap you have the more seat time you get, may want to half-lap and get even more seat time!  :woohoo:

A couple beers before you get in the seat, another for the cup holder...
then stab it and go. Pretty sure you'll have all kinds of overlap going on
.  
:lol:

An important thing to keep in mind it the fact that the beer goes flat fast when bouncing on a tractor. Be sure to drink them quickly before that happens. Have the wife trained to hand off refills from the deck.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oaktown1987

Whether a 42 or 48" deck, the 'baffles' on the bottom side of the deck, along with the angle end of the blades are designed to create a vacuum to 'stand up' the grass after your front tire/wheel has ran over and packed it down.  In effect, a wind tunnel or tornado (for lack of a better word) is created under the deck within the baffles to cut grass evenly.  This works quite well in dry grass, but is compromised when cutting wet or extremely tall grass. 
So, you are losing efficiency by 're-cutting' as you described.  With my 48" deck, I guide the OUTSIDE EDGE of the front wheel to 4 or 5 inches INSIDE the prior cut.  When turning a close radius, close that path by the width of front tire so as not to leave an uncut strip.
    

It's a cross shaft deck it doesn't have baffles Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

The grass in Illinois grows faster then anywhere else in the nation.  I try to mow it once a week, but sometimes it gets rain delayed one or two days.  I've been using a 36" RD deck on the 857.  This means that sometimes it is 1st gear, 1/2 lap when it is real long...then I will go over it again in 2nd gear kind of mulching it.  Normally, I can mow in 2nd gear, but I will still over lap a little.  I do get a nice cut...but it always looks great after a little Rock & Rye.  :)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Bach-Ed

Well Illinois was originally a prairie, so I guess it's not hard to imagine out grass grows fast.  This year is worst than usual I will admit.  I have been mowing every 4 or 5 days (I'm retired) and with the rain it has been a challenge  I mow in first all the time, I have some steep areas to climb and I don't want to keep shifting all the time.  I had a small riding mower and it was inadequate for the slopes, my WH never struggles.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
stevasaurus

Retired also...that's why I do not have time anymore.  :) 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
squonk

You IL guys are slackers! :):ychain: It's every 3 days here. I have to mow before I leave for the show. With the weather forecast for here it will be Monday. That means I will come home to a hay lot! :rolleyes:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Bach-Ed

Perfect reason to buy a sickle mower attachment, so you can mow hay.  As if one needs a reason to buy another attachment.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
slovinski

I line up the inside front tire with my 855 also,  they are 36" decks,  a few inch's here or there wont make a big difference as long as you have the time.  But that's just me and im as blind as a bat to try and do it any other way

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Tankman
The more overlap you have the more seat time you get, may want to half-lap and get even more seat time!  :woohoo:

Or take the deck spindle belt off! Honest Hon, I'll clean up the garage soon as I'm done mowin'.  :ph34r:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Digger 66

  So what is your opinion,

Lemmie go ask my neighbor about "aim" .
He's pretty darn good , it all ends up on my driveway 
:angry-nono:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
lobo

Hello, Finally a topic that I have some knowledge about, I mow about 7 acres with my 48in deck on ether one of my mowers and beleive me I get alot of  seat time. Anyway I use the antiscalp rollers as a guide, just put them where the outside edge is riding at the outside of last pass, seems to give me the best cut, just my two cents.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • MSBiker
      By MSBiker
      Well it looks like I'm out of luck. I have been looking for blades for my Lawn Ranger and having zero luck. I have tried Wheel Horse part numbers 7908, 7909. Toro part numbers 8777, and 53322 and no one has anything like this. I was thinking about doing a cut down, but finding right hand and left hand blades seems to be the problem. 
      Anyone making blades, constructing blades, got a work around, etc? My blades are usable, but that is about it. 
    • cbj75
      By cbj75
      I have a 1975 D200 Wheel Horse with front mount dozer blade, package includes Wheel Horse Dump Trailer, 48" belly mower side discharge, Wheel Horse front and rear wheel weights, turning brakes, rear PTO and 3-point to 2" receiver attachment, and Brinley twin disc harrow. Rear luggage/rack carrier, All refurbished, sandblasted and painted Ford red in 2016. Lots of extra Wheel Horse parts included.
       
      Package price $3000.00.
       
      Bryce Johnson
      102 Anglers PT
      Mc Cormick SC 29835
      913-638-6788

      IMG_1962.HEIC IMG_1965.HEIC IMG_0279.HEIC


       
    • Joe Warren
      By Joe Warren
      Mower Spindle Components
      mostly new old stock
      Prices shown do not include the cost to ship.
      Message me with your needs and any questions.
      Thank you.
      Joe
       
      PART NUMBER(S)
      DESCRIPTION
      QTY. AVAILABLE
      PRICE EACH
      103711
      NOS Spindle shaft assembly
      1
      39
      103711 (used)
      Used spindle shaft assembly
      1
      29
      101686 or 5875
      NOS Spindle shaft sub-assembly
      1
      49
      104890
      NOS Spindle shaft
      1
      49
      104982
      NOS Spindle shaft
      1
      44
      107998 or 107446
      NOS Spindle shaft
      2
      89
      109912
      NOS Spindle shaft
      1
      59
      112673 or 109965
      NOS Spindle shaft
      1
      59
      108849
      NOS Spindle shaft
      1
      89
      102780 or 104373
      NOS Spindle cups 1.0” tall
      2
      39
      ??????
      NOS Spindle cups 0.9” tall
      2
      39
      102784 or 104374
      NOS Spindle cups 0.8” tall
      1
      39
       
       
       
       
      100289
      NOS Needle bearing, MFD USA Torrington
      2
      19
      101411
      NOS Ball bearing, sealed both sides, MFD China
      2
      29
      101480 or 1515 or 5493
      NOS Ball bearing, sealed both sides, MFD China
      6
      9
       
       
       
       
      106084
      NOS Ball bearing, sealed one side, MFD Japan
      11
      9
      106085
      NOS Ball bearing, open, not sealed, MFD Taiwan
      16
      9
       
       
       
       
      106070
      NOS Seal spacer
      10
      9
      100674
      NOS Spacer-pulley
      1
      13
      107445
      NOS Spacer-bearing
      1
      9
      106069
      NOS Spacer
      1
      9
       
       
       
       
      110234
      NOS Lock bolt-pulley
      4
      2
      110242 or 908033
      NOS Lock bolt-blade
      11
      2
      915090 or 32146-20
      NOS Lock nut-pulley
      11
      2
      936028 or 32120-42 or 52-6640
      NOS Snap ring
      7
      2
      8389
      spindle housing
      1
      39




    • Upnorthman
      By Upnorthman
      314-8 In great shape. Used for mowing more than anything. Bought it a few years ago but got a new tractor. I used the blower very little and it sounds like it needs a bearing on it. Runs well. I have new chains I've not put on yet and extra belts. 








    • Joe Warren
      By Joe Warren
      one NOS 106846 right drive pulley, mower deck, used on double D style shaft, replaces part 5877, $55 includes shipping within US lower 48


×
×
  • Create New...