Kohler K301 Rebuild

[Mgryder1 16]

Hey guys, this is my first post to the engine section and I'm going to need a lot of advice on what I need to do. I'm restoring a 1972 Charger 12 and the engine is pretty much the last piece of the puzzle. I just recently rebuilt the hydro and now I'm moving on to the engine. My knowledge of engines is novice at best...this tractor has been my first resto with anything that has an engine or a transmission...up until now it's been all machine tools.

This engine may be fine and not need a thing but I won't learn by just busting a little rust and slapping on a new paint job. It is my intent to get this thing running like a top before its all said and done. Before I took anything apart, I jumped the battery cables to a good battery and it did turn over. Correct me if I'm wrong but that means the solinoid and stater are good and the motor isn't locked up.? After that, I took it off the tractor and it's sat on the work bench until this evening. If you guys would....please tell me you observations based on the pictures I posted.

[rmaynard 14,865]

First impression is that it looks pretty good to me. I can still see cross-hatch in the cylinder from the last time it was honed. It appears to be a .010 piston in there, so the cylinder was bored once before. The carbon on the head and top of piston looks normal, and the valves don't look bad. I would take it to a machine shop and have everything measured. You might be lucky and not need to do anything but install new rings and maybe a valve grind.

[Mgryder1 16]

Ok, great...I was hoping it wasn't a disaster. I have a question about the dip stick tube/filler port. Is the tube supposed to just come right out of the mounting bracket? I didn't see any evidence of it being broken lose, it's not bent, etc. I would think its supposed to be a press fit at the very least. As it is, you can just pull it out of the hole with little to no effort.

Edited April 20, 2015 by Mgryder1

[oldredrider 2,547]

You're correct. The dip stick tube is a press fit. A good smack with a dead blow hammer should seat it.

If the cylinder mics out in spec, a hone and re ring should do the trick for many miles.

[WH nut 553]

If it we mine I would put it back together and run it for a bit. It looks like its been gone through once already. Why waste the time and money if you don't need to. If it aint broke, don't fix it.

[Mgryder1 16]

I know I said earlier that I wanted to learn but I'm leaning towards following your advice and just putting it back together. If I go any further, I might as well go all the way. I do have a few questions, is that head gasket one and done or can I re-use it? The fins are rusted pretty good and id like to clean those up...what's the best way to do this? Do I need high temp paint for the whole motor?

[MalMac 1,328]

Save yourself the trouble and put a new headgasket on. I know they have been reused but it's recommeded to put a new one on.

[can whlvr 991]

I would buy  a valve spring depressor,and a lapping kit and lap the valves,put a new head gasket and you should be good to go

[Mgryder1 16]

I bought a "refresh" kit today. You'll have to explain what a valve depressor and a lapping kit is.

Any of you guys have an answer in the motor paint question?

The dipstick tube...oldredrider, mine is all pressed out...I smacked it pretty good with the dead blow and still nothing. Should I shim it? I would think this needs to seal. I can take the mount off and braze the tube it. Anyway, I welcome suggestions to securing the dipstick tube.

[WH nut 553]

For the engine paint, just get some high temp engine paint. The dipstick might require some JB weld if it isn't fitting tight. As far as refreshing the motor, its your choice, but I see no need for it with the way things look. Someone has already gone through it.

[MalMac 1,328]

If you JB weld that oil tube, make sure it's super clean. As far as brazing it, not sure that will work. The fitting that mounts to the block I believe is cast aluminum. If JB does not work there probably is some special heat/oil proof adhesives out there, but you might just be better off finding a replacement.

[953 nut 51,541]

​This is the type of tool you will need to remove and re-install the valve springs. If any of your friends work on model A or any other flat head motors they will have one to lend you, cost $40 +/- if you were to buy it. You will also need a cylinder hone (glaze breaker) for the cylinder. 

 

You may have a member here who lives near by that could lend a hand, never know.

[Mgryder1 16]

I needed several gaskets contained in the kit...if I were to buy them individually it would have cost about as much. My plan for now is to clean it up the engine as best I can without taking anything else apart, put it back together and see what Ive got. I got a new fuel pump...the old diaphragm was rough looking and it was $19 to replace...a new pump was $29. I had no idea if the checks in the old are good so a new pump was the best option. I'll give the JB Weld a shot on the oil tube...i believe they make high temp JB Weld, I'll pick some up tomorrow. If I'm not compfortable with the fix I'll just fine a replacement. That's the plan.

[clip 185]

Head gaskets are pretty cheap, I wouldn't think of finishing a rebuild without one. Also coat the new head gasket with a thin layer of Permatex copper gasket spray, it will help seal everything.

[953 nut 51,541]

I needed several gaskets contained in the kit...if I were to buy them individually it would have cost about as much. My plan for now is to clean it up the engine as best I can without taking anything else apart, put it back together and see what Ive got. I got a new fuel pump...the old diaphragm was rough looking and it was $19 to replace...a new pump was $29. I had no idea if the checks in the old are good so a new pump was the best option. I'll give the JB Weld a shot on the oil tube...i believe they make high temp JB Weld, I'll pick some up tomorrow. If I'm not compfortable with the fix I'll just fine a replacement. That's the plan.

 

    You may want to give Permatex silicone gasket maker a try rather than JB Weld; JB is great but not to sure it would be best for this application.    If you were to make the tube a slight bit of an oval to provide a press fit and silicone for a seal it may work out.

[Anglo Traction 759]

If you JB weld that oil tube, make sure it's super clean. As far as brazing it, not sure that will work. The fitting that mounts to the block I believe is cast aluminum. If JB does not work there probably is some special heat/oil proof adhesives out there, but you might just be better off finding a replacement.

I used this method to bond the steel Tube to the Aluminium Casting. Yes , it has to be scrupulously degreased and clean and no surplus left in the tube to inhibit the Dipstick. Brazing is unnecessary.

I did not use JB Weld as I used an adhesive called Araldite here in the UK, but similar in it's properties etc. It is fine with dealing with what heat a K301 produces. Still solid as a rock and took paint very well.