Jump to content
turtleman

Tiller for a 312-8

Recommended Posts

turtleman

I have a 312-8 Wheel Horse. I found a tiller for sale, unsure of the model of the tiller yet. But am wondering if anyone knows which model or models would fit a 312-8 tractor? Thank you

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
daveoman1966

There are, essentially, two styles and the difference is in the hitch, as shown in these 2 pics. You need the style "For B C 300 400 500 series" to the 312-8 tractor. There are many model #s of this style made from the mid 70s and they should all fit. There are also variations on the DRIVE BELT setup and the lift mechanism, but they are of minor consequence.

The other style can be adapted to fit the 312-8, but not without some difficulty.

post-1200-0-84610300-1429334375_thumb.jp

post-1200-0-51458800-1429334383_thumb.jp

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Racinbob

I had the earlier style tiller like the left picture that I used on my C series (7-1211). The idler pulley was mounted on the bracket that attaches to the rear axle. Originally it had a additional pulley setup that mounted to the frame just in front of the transmission and used two belts. It was pretty easy to utilize the later model pulley setup that mounted to the tach-a-matic mount under the motor and only used one belt. That idler assembly that mounted back by the transmission was a pain. It required moving the foot rest out and an additional belt guard. My lift hook up was accomplished with a short bar in the slot hitch and connected to the tiller with a chain. I ended up liking it better than the later style tiller that my Dad had. It was easier to mount/dismount and, if I remember correctly, the later style required that the slot hitch be removed.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Racinbob

Let me add to that. With the old style axle bracket being different than the newer style it wouldn't work for a snow blade. I didn't care about that because I had a tractor dedicated to a snow blade and the tiller tractor wore the blower in the winter. You could also get the later style mounting bracket w/idler pulley (circled) and use the newer axle bracket.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Racinbob

BTW Turtleman.............. :WRS:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Racinbob

turtleman, check out the tiller posted in the classified right now. It's a direct fit. Just make sure you get the axle bracket with it unless you already have one for a snowblade. With the tiller posted, it's the same bracket. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
turtleman

Racinbob....Thank you very much for your help. Where are the classifieds you are talking about? Thank you

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Racinbob

I was in the process of typing a reply and I went to it just to make sure I told you correctly. I see that you found it. I hope it works out for you. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • tallen4392
      By tallen4392
      looking for rear weights  12 inch  close to 01077 zip maybe fits also let me know what you have  Thanks
    • Duramax7man7
      By Duramax7man7
      Very Solid tractor!

      Newer Agro Tires on Rear and Solid Front Turf Tires. Wheel Weights on rear. Fully Swapped Forward Swept axle off of 520h. I ran my 60" Deck on this tractor for over a year with no issues. 
      Deck it solid top to bottom with no rot and newer blades. Belt and Pulley are good to go! 
      She's just a little dusty and needs a cleaning. Can get a nice Seat a Tractor Supply. 
       
      $1175 OBO   -POOS

      (248) 9for3-8six3four Text or Call. I do not visit this site enough. God Bless. 

      NEW SEAT INSTALLED ON THIS TRACTOR! Started it up and ran it for a while yesterday... Forgot how nice this thing is. Tempting to keep it but it's time to send her one her way. GREAT TRACTOR! 


       


    • Bill Winn
      By Bill Winn
      For sale. 1981 WH C-175 Kohler twin series 1
       
      1. Tractor has brand new ag tires all the way around, brand new seat, new points and condenser, new rear blade quick attach bracket, lights have been rewired with LEDs, it has a brand new lift cable and bracket,seat pan is from a 410... it's surface rusted but at least it isn't busted up like the oem plastic one, starts and runs but smokes a bit on startup if it's been sitting for months but she runs smooth and strong.
       
      2. Tiller is like new. It had been used only about once when I bought it and now it has been used 4 times more. Tines still have much of the factory paint on them.
       
      3. 42" mower deck works perfectly, 4. snow blade was/ is rough but I repaired it so it is quite functional,
       
      4. Brand new rear grader blade,
       
      5. Wheel Horse brand plow,
       
      6. Wheel Horse brand disc- I added a piece of motorgrader blade for a drag. I also welded a post to the top to hold weights,
       
      7. Wheel Horse brand cultivator,
       
      8. Home built furrower. (Makes good rows)
       
      The original Wheel Horse plow/disc/cultivator originally came as a modular kit and in order to use it the draw bar and clevis hitch had to be swapped back and forth. (big pain) I fabricated draw bars and hitches onto each piece so this is no longer necessary.
      I think this is a fair asking price at $2200 for all.















    • oliver2-44
      By oliver2-44
      Anyone have any Troy Bilt  Pony Tiller Gear Box Experience?

      So about a year ago an older neighbor gave me this Troy Bilt Pony Rear Tine tiller.  Said he forgot he drained the engine oil and started it.  Bore diameter was actually good, but has a bunch of large vertical scars on cylinder walls.
      Fast forward, my wife has volunteered us to help a Youth Summer Camp that runs an  "Outdoor School" during the 9mth  school year.  They had a fairly large garden for several years, but it has been neglected & overgrown for a couple of years.  So she drives past this neglected garden daily! 
      There's some scheme emerging where we have half the garden to ourselves and help with the other half where students will plant and weed and pick their produce.  I enjoy a garden, but not real keen on some of the aspects on this one...( a bunch of 6" high raised beds with paths to narrow for my big feet to turn sideways. But I've already been committed, O I mean volunteered.  
       
      So engine is shot (aluminum block)  but I have a Predator or a K181 I could put on it. 
      The wheel shaft seals looked shot and had a bunch of play so brass wheel bushings were shot. (the other 2 shafts have tapered roller bearings).  
      No model number, but from the "Pxxxxx" serial number and Briggs engine I've dated it to a 1981.  
      MTD now owns Troy Bilt and their "on-line manuals" go back to 2000.  Called their Tech Supports and got "Deer in the Headlite" comments regarding a 1981 Service Manual. 
      Searched online and founds lots more info on the larger "Horse" model, and a 1991  Pony service manual.  
      While they basically look the same, there's been several generations of re-engineering the internals to simplify manufacturing and eliminate castings it appears.
      I found this parts diagram to be the close's match to what I have.  
      https://www.partstree.com/models/20462-troy-bilt-pony-i-rear-tine-tiller-sn-p001001-p101750/wheel-tiller-shaft-assemblies-7/
      I disassembled it and I think I marked everything as to what faced the front, back or R,L side.  Internals looked OK, but the wheel shaft seal area is not the greatest. 
      Most parts are NLA but found bearing. seals & bushings on ebay. $130
      Reassembled everything and used the 1991 Service Manual as a "Guide" to shimming the 3 shafts end play.
      Everything turn freely in both directions when in neutral. But when I engage the Wheel Shaft "Clutch" it binds up. The clutch lets the wheels roll freely or engages them to power.  It uses belt idlers to reverse direction from a second shaft on the briggs (like a walk behind snow blower drive)  
      photo from phone here 
      This internal clutch actually works by using a pawl disc which is keyed to the shaft to engage the wheel

      shaft gear which is free wheeling on the shaft. 
      I've loosened the bolt on the bearing end caps slightly and no change.
      This uses worm gears and I know "some" worm gears are designed where they must be "power driven"  in each direction (My boat lift is like this)   
      So the rear tine gear shaft turn freely in each direction.
      The wheel shaft locks up when the clutch is engaged amd trying to turn it in what would be the forward direction.  But it will turn freely with the clutch engaged if going in the backwards direction.
      The wheel shaft gear cannot be turned backwards because of the clutch mechanism on the one side.
      The rear tine shaft bevel gear turn freely in both direction in neutral but is bound up when the clutch on the wheel shaft is engaged.??
      There is a Main Drive Shaft that has the Worm Gears on it to drive the Wheel Gear and a second worm to drive the Tines Gear.
      https://www.partstree.com/models/20462-troy-bilt-pony-i-rear-tine-tiller-sn-p001001-p101750/main-drive-shaft-gear-assemblies-4/

      This shaft is made up of a smooth shaft with the worms keyed to it and spacers in between them.  I disassembled it (and carefully laid out each piece in order) to wire brush everything clean on the grinder as there was some rust from water in the very bottom of the gearbox. 
      I find it hard to believe that I could have one of the worms backwards because it seems it would not turn freely when the wheel clutch is not engaged??
      To remove it I have to disassemble everything and might ruin my seals as I have to drive them out. (dumb me, I tested everything to turn freely before I installed the seals, BUT I didn't engage the clutch)
       
      Just a note,, I didn't try to turn everything with the "clutch engaged" "Before" I disassembled it so I don't know how hard it should turn, but it had to turn via a belt drive verse's now totally locking up. 
      Regrettable a nonworking tiller doesn't get me out being volunteered. 
      Did I say I actually enjoy a garden! 
      Thanks for any suggestions and listening to my rant.   

      This is the input shaft from belt pulley

      Special woodruff key

      Tiller Tine Shaft

      Some one was in here before me. These are threaded holes with removable set screws to drive the bearing cone out. No set screws just filled with caulk or body putty. 
    • wh315-8
      By wh315-8
      Anyone be able to measure out the Top Link Bar for the 50” D Series Tiller?
      Just finished rebuilding a tiller, have a adjustable type but would like to put a original type on like the manual has listed.



×
×
  • Create New...