To prime, or not to prime

[MAH 50]

Restoration on the 1056 has not begun. It'll be the work horse for clearing snow at least until the engine is finished on the 518H and an assembly bench is made. The thought of paint continues to roll around in my head and was thinking about primer. I plan to use a build primer on the body and other flat areas to get a nice finish. The question is should everything else be primed before paint? This will be a tractor to use in my small yard and clearing snow. It doesn't seem most of the pieces were primed from the factory. Thoughts and suggestions as we prepare for the project would be very helpful.

Mark

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

Primers typically contain better binders which allow the primer to bond better with the metal panels. Much better than top coats alone. Of course if you choose to use 99cent cans of primer, this advantage is lost.

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

the best minimum preparation primer i have used is the duplicolor green self etch acid primer sold at advance auto.

 

epoxy primers are used for long term protection

 

enamel primers are probably the most commonly used (rustoleum)

[fireman 1,021]

The short answer is yes. You should always prime before you paint especially bare metal. You also want to wipe the parts down with wax and grease remover before priming. I generally use the Rust-oleum self etching primer on bare metal. Seems like a lot or work to do but it will give you the best results. 

 

If your going for a professional looking restoration then take the entire tractor apart piece by piece. Completely strip each piece down to bare metal. Wipe clean with wax and grease remover and prime immediately with self etching primer. Don't wait as moisture will start corrosion right away and eventually cause problems later. Allow the part to dry for at least 24 to 48 hours before top coating. 

 

On sheet metal parts like the hood and fenders make sure you remove any dents and use filler to fix any imperfections after you prime and before you paint. Once thats done wet sand with like 400 then 800 then 1200 grit sand paper. It will give you a really nice professional looking finish when it's done. After your top coat is dry for like a week you can wet sand that with like 2000 grit for a super nice finish (stay away from corner and edges when wet sanding!).

 

Just my $.02

[MAH 50]

Thank you for the responses I will certainly prime before painting with a decent quality primer. I do want a professional looking restoration and plan to take time to do it. I do have another tractor to use while restoration is done but that is in process of engine repairs. But this one is a working tractor still so its off to use her for the first time.... Plowing snow.

Thanks again I like to hear your $.02

Mark

[MAH 50]

Well plowing didn't go so well. Chains but no wheel weights, and my 125ld frame is useless for weight. So we blew with the old Hahn.

[doc724 924]

On my restorations and re-do's I always use a primer.  I have been using the Rustoleum "rusty metal" primer (it is the brownish color stuff) since I don't get all of the panels down to bare metal.  It is a thicker primer and you need a bit more patience spraying it or it will run.  I have tried the automotive "grey" primer for bare metal but the results have not been as good for me.  I think Fireman has given some good tips on painting.  I need to check into this "self etching primer" he has suggested. 

 

BTW, for severely rusted small metal parts, I have been immersing them in vinegar for 48 hours.  It's cheap and environmentally pretty safe.  However, the surface is so reactive after coming out of the vinegar that it will rust right before your eyes.  Drop them into a bucket of baking soda and water to neutralize the vinegar.  Dry them off (I have been using a blow dryer) and then prime.

[kudzu3 323]

I've always heard many reasons to prime, but have never heard any reasons not to.

[MAH 50]

OK so a trip to get the local hardware store.. Paul B Zimmerman's and here is what I found. Tillman's AG Specialty coatings. Its an enamel paint just for tractors. Looks like either IH red or MF red is a good match. Kind of leaning MF red #5467 1 and for the wheels IH off while. Does anyone have experience with this paint and primer?

[Save Old Iron 1,563]

The MSDS sheets show the manufacturer is Van Sickle Paint Mfg Co, a well respected brand in the mid=west.

[Ken B 3,116]

I'm with you Chuck. When I'm restoring a vintage outboard Duplicolor is the only self etching primer I will use. I've tried them all and this is the best self etching primer in a spray can that is out there. 

[fireman 1,021]

Ken come to think of it, I do like the Duplicolor Self Etching Primer. Dries really fast. Harder to find then the Rust-Oleum.

[Ken B 3,116]

Advance Auto in New Milford usually has it..

[dodgemike 52]

I agree with all the advice given.

Been painting cars,bikes, dump

Trucks etc. For 40 yrs. Without

Getting all technical primer is made

To bond to a substrate. It also is

Made to allow the topcoat to bond

To it. If you were going to"flip" a

Piece of equipment, you could de-

Grease and shoot it. It would look

Good, for about six months. If you

A going to the trouble of stripping

To bare metal you are cheating yourself in the long run. Primer for

Sure.

Sent from my SCH-S720C using Tapatalk 2

[AMC RULES 36,941]

 

 

[SethL1984 38]

"OK so a trip to get the local hardware store.. Paul B Zimmerman's..."

 

One of the best hardware stores on earth!! Love that place!

[RedRanger 1,468]

Also a fan of the self etching primers listed.  Why are they always green though?  Just wondering.