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km3h

MULE DRIVE BEARINGS

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km3h

I have two mule drives with tight turning bearings in the pulleys. They turn easy enough but will not spin freely. The parts diagram shows no replacement for these bearings. Are they replaceable using a standard bearing or must I buy new pulleys?

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skrusins

If you have a needle for your grease gun you can try  that first. Their are no replacement bearings.

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gwest_ca

If the two pulley halves are riveted together there is a good chance you can replace the bearings. They make a 6203-2RS with a 3/4" ID if you get that lucky.

 

Garry

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can whlvr

if its an older mule drive you can repace the bearings,my older mules are cast pullies,the newer style with pressed pullies are not,the bearing is installed permantly installed

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km3h

I was afraid that would be the case. Looks like I will b e buying new pulleys. I may try soaking them in a mixture of kerosene and transmission fluid. They turn with no noise or rough spots. The outside pulley spins but the inside just turns. It is not tight but does not spin like I think it should.

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groundhog47

I pressed out the old bearings, the flange was just unrolled, put new bearings from mower spindle stash, and worked the roll back down over bearing. Tried on a smaller bearing pulley (mower idler) and rolled lip split (determined the outer race is a must to get a push on) and bearing came apart leaving race in pulley, experiment failed there. Mule pulley seems to be working fine though. Just need about four or five more to fix up for spare mules and refine process.

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gwest_ca

These Stens pulleys are spot welded together and you can drill out the welds and replace with machine screws and Nylock nuts. Any I have seen the welds are evenly spaced so balance should stay very close. I made a jig for the drill press to keep the new holes equal distant from the center.

 

Flat idler

https://www.bantasaw.com/catalog/viewproduct.asp?i=&p=4031

 

V idler

https://www.bantasaw.com/catalog/viewproduct.asp?i=&p=4657

 

This dealer is in Ontario Canada

I keep many spare bearings so as I get this style of pulley I'm never stuck the next time. Also have flanged metric bushings so the 6203 bearings will also work for the 3/8" and 1/2" mounting studs. That's what i do for the 7451 clutch idler using this pulley

https://www.bantasaw.com/catalog/viewproduct.asp?i=&p=642

 

Garry

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km3h

Thanks Gary and everyone. Seems like there are some choices. With all the work that mule drive is asked to do, I would have thought the bearings would have been easily replaceable.  

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can whlvr

the pullies are not really expensive,for the guys that arnt willing to tear them apart,some of the pullies are getting thin by the time the bearing wears,so take a good look at the pulley before doing too much too them

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Mr. 856

For what its worth on my blower the pulley shaft bearings cups were riveted together. Upon opening the cups after drilling out the rivets I was surprised to see the cups were the actual bearings. I was able to remove all the balls and clean and degrease everything. After putting them back together and packing with grease they roll like new ones. These aren't like the sealed bearings we are used to. The cups have groves that hold all the balls.

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Kelly

The pressed steel pulleys are throw aways, yes you can soak them or try to grease them, but if you are doing it after you hear they are bad, it's only a short term bandaid.

 

   In the early 70's to mid 70's they used cast iron pulleys with removable bearings, I think cost stopped that, new pressed steel pulleys are about $20-25 each I've seen them cheaper at times, I sell the cast iron pulleys when I have them in stock, for $50 a pair most need bearings, but after you have a set you only need to buy bearing ever again, @ about $12 a set depending on your supplier  

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peter lena

on those 6203 ( 3/4 ) bearings , the most important thing is the lubricant, typically those pulleys get quite hot and cause lubricant failure . easy to pry off the seal , clean out the bearing and refill with  LUCAS RED N TACKY GREASE,  its 550 drop point will stand up to high heat and heavy use, since changing over a number of bearings to that grease , no noise and no failures , just my input on what was  a common failure , pete 

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Lee1977

The bearings can be replaced on the spot welded ones too. The flat idler is the easest as it is not welded in the center like the vee idler. The first thing take a small bit and drill a reference hole between the spot welds.  Then drill out the spot welds. The hole won't be perfectly spaced, that is the reason for the reference hole. Vee idlers can be a real pain to get apart, but I've done a couple. Here is a set that I did,

SAM-0971.jpg

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Jerry Hugo

Thanks Lee1977, this was one of the best posts that I have seen - I knew it was doable, just had to see that someone tried it and got it done.  I'm going to do it today - I have 8 520's so it will be worth it, not having to purchase the Stens replacements.  Just replaced an idler pulley on the main drive belt yesterday - not as bad as I had thought it would be.  Took about 3 hours in total but did a lot of cleaning up in the process and changed the Hydro filter as long as I had the fender off.  Thanks for your post.

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squonk

Lowell has those pulleys for $20. Your labor isn't worth the 20? :confusion-confused:

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Jeff-C175
42 minutes ago, Jerry Hugo said:

knew it was doable

 

There's a post by @PbFlinger on doing the same with the pulleys on his 37" deck.  More pics that illustrate the process.

 

 

Edited by Jeff-C175

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peter lena

@km3h great opportunity to replace those 6203- 3/4" ID bearings , but most important is the chance to use some LUCAS EXTRA HEAVY DUTY , POLYUREA , HI TEMP , ANTI SLING GREASE IN THEM ,  done this easy swap , on my deck spindles and my 3 mule drive bearings. recently bought 2 new pto pulleys , first thing i did was easily pop off the wide bearing side seals , with pocket screw driver . carefully wiped out original (  generic grease  ) that will fail . repacked with same amount of  lucas hi temp grease . at 5$ a tube at wall mart , its the bearing saving deal. this is not complicated , its simple and easy. this bearing grease will stand up to hi temp and extreme stress , why not change to it?  my decks are quiet and very smooth , no hi pitched bearing whine , this is my own experience , do what you like , keep it greasy , pete

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Wheelhorse#1

Thanks for the information guys .Very helpful as always.

 

Mr.Lena 

I know you are a big fan of the Lucas Extra heavy duty,Polyurea ,high temp ,anti sling grease.

I have used it and it is good stuff !!

However I came across a stock of this Pyroplex Blue NLGl #2  Thoughts ?

 

3C914908-2D67-45E0-943D-888E8E856980.jpeg

F5DE2696-C619-4823-8AA3-9E85A72BA9E9.jpeg

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peter lena

@Wheelhorse#1 thanks for the shout , looks like its in the class , could not find an exact equal to lucas . but it is definitely better than average . that heavy equipment rating , is beyond average . worth a try.  those small bearings spinning at hi angular load , is what heats up and causes lubrication failure . on my first mule bearing failure , you could not touch the bearing , now my bearings , don't give me any problems at all . always looking for reliable operation , experiment , thats what i do , greasy pete    

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Wheelhorse#1
40 minutes ago, peter lena said:

@Wheelhorse#1 thanks for the shout , looks like its in the class , could not find an exact equal to lucas . but it is definitely better than average . that heavy equipment rating , is beyond average . worth a try.  those small bearings spinning at hi angular load , is what heats up and causes lubrication failure . on my first mule bearing failure , you could not touch the bearing , now my bearings , don't give me any problems at all . always looking for reliable operation , experiment , thats what i do , greasy pete    


Great Pete

Thanks for your opinion on this grease,I thought it looked pretty good.Plus it’s blue!😉

As you know proper Maint is number one in keeping these bearings going for a long life.

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squonk

Bearing #'s 

 

V pulley 6203-12 2RS C3 3/4

 

Flat 1630-2RLD-C3

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