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nrowles

Plowing/Blowing Snow with my 1981 C-145

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nrowles

This will be my first winter with my 1981 C-145.  It has chains on rear and weights on both front and rear.  I know I will figure out with experience but I was just curious how well it would do with the plow.  With a good HEAVY/WET snow, how deep can I expect to plow before I need to switch to the blower?  8 inches?  I am used to the atv that will do about 12 inches pretty easily.

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bmsgaffer

Hard to say exactly as everyone has a different experience.

 

I have plowed 8 inches without any hesitation, I think it would do 12 but we don't get that around here often all at once. More when its lighter less when its icier.

 

The chains and weights make that thing pretty hefty, more weight in the rear would make it push even more. Generally these tractors (steel frame, iron transmission, iron engine) are made to push/pull more than ATV's which are generally lighter to help them travel trails. The advantage you may have had is 4WD which chains/weights can easily make up for.

 

So all that to say, if you spend time to get your tractor properly equipped (you are well on your way), I would bet that little tractor will out plow the ATV... But like i said, everyone has a different experience. You would do well to replace the tires on the front with either tri-ribs, or 5 ribs to help with steering (turf tires in snow are not great). You can also wrap #40 roller chain around the front tires if you arent worried about scratching pavement.

 

Many people on here that live in the snowier climates actually have two tractors set up, one for plowing, one for blowing. The problem with plowing for a season is that you end up in a tunnel of frozen piles of snow unless you think way ahead and plow off the pavement a few feet. That's where you benefit from the snow blower. Also snow blower is best for lighter and fluffier and less efficient in heavy wet.

 

 

 

That was a long disjointed post, but I hope it helped! :handgestures-thumbupright:

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Tankman

I've done 12" with chains 'n rear wheel weights. Not a problem.

 

If skeptical, push snow a couple of times; i.e.: 12" forecast, move snow at 6" and retire for awhile. 

 

Finish up when the ugly, wet, white, cold stuff ceases.  :woohoo:

Exactly bmsgaffer, "The problem with plowing for a season is that you end up in a tunnel of frozen piles of snow unless you think way ahead and plow off the pavement a few feet. That's where you benefit from the snow blower. Also snow blower is best for lighter and fluffier and less efficient in heavy wet."

Edited by Tankman

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Tim

Back when i only had a snow plow, I would go out every 4-6 inches. now I have both setups.

for me it's not really the amount of the snow fall, but more of breaking through on the snow banks the plow trucks make at the end of my driveway

if you do go out and plow with a foot of heavy snow, you will work the tractor hard. Snowblowing in my opinion while harder on the motor, is easier on the tractor

I will snowblow more often than plow,

if we only get a few inches I will plow that to the edges and then blow that away

snow blowing also looks cleaner when done

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smoreau

I have 2 set up, one with a blower and cab and the V blade tractor. But if it gets too bad i also have a 2001Dodge with a western pro plus 7.5 blade with 6" factory wings on it. I like to make 8' piles for the kids to play in. Its pushed way back so there's no issues with room to move and also far back out of the way from the road. Kids just love the piles for tunneling and sliding down on sleds. I get so sick of plowing in the truck all day even knowing its nice and warm, but when i get home and get to fire up the horses. Yes i freeze my tail off, but its a blast and i kind of get sad when there's no more snow to move.

Back to the subject. Plowing will always work, but snow blowing has a much cleaner look with no piles of snow. They are not so good in the wet stuff and you will have to unplug it a lot! But in frozen stuff they are unstoppable up to 2.5 feet. After that you might just wait tell it melts 😃

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Wyattrrp

nrowles

About your original question.  I plow with my 1981 C-125 /8 with chains and wheel weights on rear. I have front weights that i prefer on my 312 blower tractor to help steer turn the several hundred pound blower is on the pavement surface blowing.   If wet heavy snow of 5-6" or more it may start to push the front of the tractor sideways, sliding the tires to the side, if blade is turned other way.  Wet heavy snow windrow pushes you more than you push the snow.  A simple way to help avoid that is put chains on the front tires.  The heavy snow sometimes doesn't want to slide off the angled blade and starts to pile up in front, then it will push the front sideways especially if plowing on a curved driveway in direction of blade angle.  

 

2 things help.  Lubricate the blade so snow slides off easier and front tire chains.  I know if you search for front tire chain on here you should find a thread showing photos of the chain.  For $20 at TSC you can buy a 10 foot length of #40 Roller Chain that comes with 1 master link.  If doing one tire, which helps stop the front sliding sideways under normal conditions, that is all you need.  If want to do both front tires buy a set of 4   #40 master links for the #40 roller chain at TSC for $3.00.  You need about 3-4 ft of chain per front tire.

 

The install includes letting air out of the front tires, running the chain around the tire when soft enough to loop the chain down the center of the tread and decide how long to cut the chain to fit the center line of tread, parallel to the tire, not across it like rear chains.  Don't make the chain too short so the tire is half flat.  Just so the tread is snug to the chain when slightly indented by the chain at low pressure.  Allow length for the new master link too.  Then install chain in center of tread, and increase tire pressure back to normal.  The chain will bind into the tread a bit and stay on the center of the tire, with tread dented slightly to hold the chain. The chain will stop sideways sliding in icy or slushy, slippery snow.  It may leave a mark on a newly coated asphalt driveway surface or slightly scratch concrete so if you have a manicured pavement surface, then maybe not for you.

 

To cut the chain, you can search for I think Sparky's photos of chain cutting on here.  He grinds the pin dubbed head off one side of a male link until flush with side of link, at the length you want, then sets a small size from a socket wrench set standing up on the bench (about 1/4 inch socket), then sets the flush ground pin into the socket hole with flush side up.  Next take a punch and hammer the pin into the socket hole until it falls out of the female link.  Need female link ends on each end of the chain so you can wrap the chain around the soft but not totally flat tire and insert the male master link.  Then once centered front to back on the tread. add air to tire and it expands holding the chain in place tight.  You can see a slight dent in the middle of the tread under the chain. For $20 you get a set for both front tires.  Guys with a blower often replace auger chains (same #40 roller chain)  and use the old chain on the front tire killing 2 birds with one stone.

 

Blowers handle light snow really well but if really wet and slushy the blower may clog the chute so you have to stop to clean it out often. Same as walk behind blowers.  So plowing wet snow is preferred as long as not super deep. Solution can be plow several times during the large storms.

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