oil drain plug stuck

[Bert 760]

Hello folks, like the title says Ive got a stuck drain plug and was hopping for some suggestions as to how to remove it. 

When I got this engine the plug was in bad shape and my attempt to remove it with a pipe wrench made it worse

Even a bit of heat didn't work. I really don't want to drill it and risk getting shavings in the case. 

Thanks in advance for any and all thoughts and suggestions 

[GT14 243]

Cant help on the plug, but can give some oil change advice. I gave up the mess and fuss years ago with this unit.

http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7400-Liter-Fluid-Evacuator/dp/B000JFJM14/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1419201466&sr=8-5&keywords=oil+change+pump

[Molon_Labe 731]

Have you tried a few solid whacks on the end of the plug with a hammer followed by some Kroil or other penetrating oil? You might want to give that a shot. Most of all .... good luck!!

[Digger 66 3,476]

Hello folks, like the title says Ive got a stuck drain plug and was hopping for some suggestions as to how to remove it. 

When I got this engine the plug was in bad shape and my attempt to remove it with a pipe wrench made it worse

Even a bit of heat didn't work. I really don't want to drill it and risk getting shavings in the case. 

Thanks in advance for any and all thoughts and suggestions IMG_0690.jpg

 

Get yourself a left-handed nut slightly smaller than the buggered portion , tap it on while turning & should lock on .

[can whlvr 991]

might have to tack weld a nut on and turn her out

[Bert 760]

Thanks for all the the tips 

[km3h 543]

Patience is what you are going to need here. first heat the plug and then spray good penetrating oil on it. Let it sit and come back and do it again. Tapping it with a hammer after putting the oil on will help to get the oil into the threads. Do this several times a day.

 

Get a good center punch and put it near the outside edge of the plug at an angle. Use a hammer to slowly move it in the counter clockwise direction.

 

Take a hack say and cut a slot in it. Get an impact driver at the auto parts store or sears. Place the driver with a good bit in it and hit with a heavy hammer. This is probably the fastest way to do it. When you cut the slot, make sure it is not bigger than the slotted tool you will use. It should fit snugly.  

[cleat 4,936]

When you finally get it out go get a good hex head plug instead of the square head plug. You will then always be able to get a wrench or socket on it.

 

Cleat

[ericj 1,576]

if you have access to a welder you can try welding a nut on it and then use the nut to remove it

 

 

 

 

 

eric j

[Mr. 856 170]

x2 on the welding. That plug us junk anyways and should be replaced with a new one. Weld a nut on top and there you go. at least then you will have a good place to put a wrench on it. the heat from the welding sometimes may be enough but get the torch out if need be if it wont. With some good heat and a nut welded on top you should be able to work it out. I wonder how/why it even got this way? Looks like the wrong tool was used to many times on that one. goodluck!

[Terry M-(Moderator) 2,125]

I've come across a few drain plug like that in my collection of Tecumseh parts engines.   Try this if you can...lay the engine on its side so that theres no oil on the back side of the plug.  Then just heat the stuck plug for about a minute with a propane or mapp gas torch.     then just dump some water on it ...then try removing it.    sounds like a stupid method, But it has worked for me many times.....

[Bert 760]

I think Ill try the welding a nut method first, even if it stays stuck at least that'll give me something to grip on. If thats not enough I'll try each suggestion till one works  

Thanks for all the replies and I'll post my progress or failed attempts as I work it through.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478]

In case you didn't know -

 

This looks like a NPT (National Pipe Thread) pipe plug. The most common style we see has a tapered thread meaning the diameter of the threads on the inner end is a smaller diameter than the threads at the other end. As it goes in the taper increases so as soon as it starts to come out it loosenes real fast. These require a thread sealer to prevent leaks and need to be only snug tight.

 

Pipe sizing is also often misunderstood. The size is the nominal inside diameter of the pipe that has the thread and it's corresponding fittings.

1/4" Schedule 40 pipe (the most common we see) has an ID of .364" and an OD of .540"

3/8" Schedule 40 pipe (the most common we see) has an ID of .493" and an OD of .675"

1/2" Schedule 40 pipe (the most common we see) has an ID of .622" and an OD of .840"

3/4" Schedule 40 pipe (the most common we see) has an ID of .824" and an OD of 1.050"

1" Schedule 40 pipe (the most common we see) has an ID of 1.049" and an OD of 1.315"

1-1/4" Schedule 40 pipe (the most common we see) has an ID of 1.380" and an OD of 1.660"

 

These last ones we see on the exhaust fittings.

 

There is also a straight pipe thread but not very common. These have a flange at the back of the thread where a gasket or seal is added to make the seal. Threaded electric hot water tank elements use this thread type.

 

Garry

[Ed Kennell 35,581]

 Garry....That standard  pipe ID and OD is a good info to keep posted near the pipe bin.

 

I am always having to check sizes when using pipe to make spacers. bushings, gasket hole cutters, etc.

[Callen 64]

If It isn't too bad yet try driving the square end of a 3/8 extension over it and use a 7/16 box end on the square end of the extension.

[Terry M-(Moderator) 2,125]

I think Ill try the welding a nut method first, even if it stays stuck at least that'll give me something to grip on. If thats not enough I'll try each suggestion till one works

Thanks for all the replies and I'll post my progress or failed attempts as I work it through.

Welding a nut on should get it plenty hot too....just might work

[Don1977 604]

I had one all chewed up I drove an old cheap socket on it and used my mi-pack on it. I came right out. Every thing else I tried just tore it up more. And as said above I put a 6 point back in it.

[Bert 760]

I got the plug out by heating it with map gas and oxygen, this wasn't my plan but the idea hit me so I tried it. Last time i used propane. I don't know why it was so tight? Never had this problem with any others. Had to get it glowing and it still needed a lot of force. 

[Horse'n Around 22]

Im glad that you were able to get it removed. Dealing with problems things like that can be so frustrating and stressful. Just a thought, I always put a dab of anti seize compound on drain plugs,exhaust bolts,studs or nuts,and on pins and shafts and such as where the pin passes thru the trans where the hitch attaches. I got in the habit of using it while working on my MX bikes. On a bike the drain plugs and cases on them usually of dissimilar metals and or exposed to heat or lots of moisture.and I never stopped doing it. Depending on the part such as suspension I would even mix some with the grease too.

Edited December 27, 2014 by Horse'n Around

[Bert 760]

Im glad that you were able to get it removed. Dealing with problems things like that can be so frustrating and stressful. Just a thought, I always put a dab of anti seize compound on drain plugs

Thanks, and yes very frustrating. Anti seize is a good idea for a plug but sense this engine has two oil drains I'm gonna use plumbers pipe and a brass nipple to run a vacuum fuel pump. Ive done this before and it looks ugly but works great  Heres a pic of my HH100 with a briggs fuel pump powered by the extra drain. Its also has a 8hp kohler carb on it. I did this a few years ago when I was broke. I used what I had or what was cheap, its run so good I don't wanna go back to original parts.

[Mr. 856 170]

wait a minute......you got a techy running a briggs pump with a kohler carb????!!!!!!!    And it runs good?

[Bert 760]

wait a minute......you got a techy running a briggs pump with a kohler carb????!!!!!!!    And it runs good?

Yes thats correct, it took a bit of fine tuning to dial it in though.

[oldlineman 1,450]

Great job thats using what you have , sounds like you may have grown up during the depression, as my father and father inlaw did. Whatever works. Bob

[JustinW.73 224]

try grabbing it with the biggest set of vise grips you have. Get it on as tight as possible and put some wd-40. if not drill a hole half way into the bolt, reverse thread it for a 1/4 20 bolt. some people say weld it but I don't like that because it can warp the bolt and could possibly weld the bolt to the block. just my opinion.