By the jeep driver
My daughter was using the Wheel Horse rider to mow, I was push mowing. She drives over to me and says, "Dad, the blades aren't turning." I look at the mower, she's got the blades engaged (lever forward) but nothing is moving. I disengage the blades, and re-engage... nothing. No movement from the belt nor clutch. Then I notice the smell, and look closer, the belt is so hot is melting on the clutch. Or rather, the clutch is so hot it's melting the belt. Melting occurred.
While the clutch is disengaged, I can spin the clutch freely; and whilst it's engaged, it won't move.
So, what did I do now? Peter told me to lube that needle bearing, but I couldn't find a write up/how to anywhere, so I was putting it off until after the leaves were done falling in the Fall. I haven't taken anything off yet, other than the pins that hold the pinion and such, and the little brake pad. I see there are two snap rings, assume they come off, and then the assembly slides out as a whole?
Some pictures of the clutch, can anyone tell if it's usable from them?
By RJ Hamner
Its been a while since I was able to work on my 416-8 rebuilt and right now the few brain cells are having a tough time.
I am in the process of putting the wiring harness back in and the problem is the clutch safety switch.
The arm with the idler wheel that engages the switch is over ridding the switch arm.
I had tried adjusting the rod from the peddle to the arm but no matter my adjustment I still have the problem
I am kinda at my wits end on this one.
Any help will be greatly appreciated
By John A
The clutch spring on my 308-8 broke, so the tractor stopped dead. It was easy to see the broken red spring, after I removed the right rear wheel. I was able to order a replacement spring which I replaced today. Problem now there is too much slack on the drive belt. The tractor will move, but barely as if the drive belt is not tight and slipping. It seems that the clutch pulley isn't applying enough force against the belt. I have tried adjusting the clutch rod but that doesn't seem to make a difference. It only changes the position of the clutch pedal . I don't see any other adjustment option to put more pressure on the drive belt. The belt is old, but seems acceptable. Before the clutch spring, broke, the tractor would jump out in any gear. No slippage.
This is more a general question but has anyone used a quick attach system for a GT FEL? I was thinking of adding one to my loader to use start switching between my bucket and forks ( hopefully a blade soon). If you did how did you do it? Did you use the SSQA system? My biggest concern is adding a bunch of extra weight to a GT loader but I really hate swapping between the two. Pictures would be fantastic.
With a front end loader for these tractors how important is a ladder type subframe? Does the cross piece in the front have to connect where the towers are? Can the frame where the towers are just mount to the frame and go back to the transmission or is that cross piece critical where the towers mount? Could it be set further back with the same effect or would it not be the same? I know it is important to go back to the transmission so if you hit something you don't snap the frame, but how critical are the cross members?