Jump to content
pezsox

#1 and so it begins - RJ 58

Recommended Posts

pezsox

I posted on here awhile back and I finally got my in-laws to let me take home the one owner RJ 58 that was her fathers. At first I thought this should be a bone stock project...Wrong!

 

issue #1 - So after finally getting the tins off and the steering wheel off I started to do some investigating of peoples pics online and I realized really quickly it had a few additions and a few differences. First and foremost it looks as though he has added some sort of power/assisted/?? steering to this thing. Not being sure of what I am lookig at, here are some pics. This pump unit has been mounted on a plate that has been welded to the frame. It looks as though he has added this steering idea to work in conjuntion with a snow plow that he had (I am getting pics of that as well) So looking at other postings he has cut the entire section where the steering collar used to fit in down by the frame, and he has also welded the castle nut directly to the frame.

 

Can anyone provide details on how I can get this back to stock looking? I dont know the dimensions of the 45 degree collar that used to mount on the frame and how the steering column steers in conjunction with the castle nut?? sorry for being a little lost in translation here, but I just don't know how it got this way and how to get it back to original. I would like to either make or purchase this steering coupler thing (very scientific)

 

Don't worry, more to come. haha

 

 

post-10744-0-10040100-1384884764_thumb.j

post-10744-0-13150400-1384884794.jpg

post-10744-0-65406200-1384884810.jpg

post-10744-0-17019600-1384884827_thumb.j

post-10744-0-65293100-1384884843.jpg

post-10744-0-37808400-1384884859_thumb.j

post-10744-0-20532000-1384884873_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
CasualObserver

:scratchead:  Well, that's.... interesting.  Obviously some sort of steering box adapted from an old car or maybe a golf cart or something.  I'm sure it was done to slow down the steering.  Factory steering on the Rj is very quick from lock to lock.

 

Sorry, but I don't have any good pictures of my RJ's steering parts.  Someone will be along with some shortly though. :thumbs:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pezsox

well I certainly dont want to leave it that way. I would love to find the true steering mechanism and cut this junk out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
VinsRJ

You may in the end might just want to find a new front frame section. Whoever it was, cut the lower steering shaft mount off...

 

Front frames are not that expensive and it would rid you fo a lot of work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pezsox

Can anyone explain or diagram or show a picture of what it is supposed to look like from when the steering shaft goes into the 45degree collar on the frame?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
AMC RULES

What the Sam Hill?

These should help.   :handgestures-thumbsup:

post-3498-0-48168000-1384893714_thumb.jp

post-3498-0-98555100-1384893747_thumb.jp

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pezsox

so when it goes into the collar how does it connect to the front end and what does that castle nut do? I see where the steering shaft slides in, but then I am lost as to the dynamics of what makes it steer.That pic is great, does anyone have a pic of the underside of a completed front end?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
AMC RULES

Search "Wheelhorse RJ"...   :handgestures-thumbsup: 

there's a cheap frame on ebay this week. 

Here in the manual, you'll see a parts diagram for your tractor. 

:WRS:

Edited by AMC RULES
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pezsox

actually was just sending him an email, great minds think alike. I see the diagram but there really is nothing more than a steering shaft going into a collar and the front of the castle nut. I just dont understand the working dynamics of the steering and if i could have someone make that piece how does it work. the exploded diagram is great, but it is not showing the "how"

 

- does anyone have a pic of the underside of the front end?

- does anyone have that piece that I can purchase and reweld?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
buckrancher

to bad your so far away I would give you a frame

 

Brian

 

Check out my stainless steel RJ58 build there are some goood pic's of the front steering setup

I basically copied a rj58 out of stainless

Edited by buckrancher

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pezsox

In the pic is the "threaded nipple" that receives the front end piece and the castle nut in the red box welded directly to the frame?

 

In the pic is the piece in the green box (the piece that I am missing) the steering shaft continues down thru that and then attaches how to the steering?

 

sorry this is such a pain, I just cant understand from the exploding diagram what is happening under the green piece.

post-10744-0-55335600-1384906484.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
AMC RULES

Click on this pict and make it full screen. 

Notice laying in the grass, by the right side foot rest...

that is the rest of the pieces of the steering assembly that attach the steering shaft to the tie rod, which in turn, connect your steering spindles on each front wheel. 

Those pieces laying in the grass consist of a block that slides over the end of the steering shaft and is located to it with a roll pin. Capish? 

post-3498-0-88952200-1384907597_thumb.jp

Edited by AMC RULES

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pezsox

I will take a look at the exploded drawing and keep the green piece in mind. Obviously these could be made, the "red square" would be the fix I obviously would have to fabricate and repair, the "green square" is going to be something to look for. I am going to take apart the front end and see what is still there. This group is great, thanks for all of the info. Still merky on how the front end is set up, but getting there.

post-10744-0-56851100-1384908893.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pezsox

finally found this pic, I knew I had seen this before. So now i have some guidlines, just minus the small block, steering shaft and the castle nut. slowly I carry on. haha

post-10744-0-21306900-1384909275_thumb.j

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
rmaynard

sorry this is such a pain, I just cant understand from the exploding diagram what is happening under the green piece.

If you open the thread that buckrancher linked to, you will see an excellent picture of what's happening under the green piece.

 

So to save you time, just click here. 

 

It's the last picture. That along with the diagram in the manual should give you a better idea.

 

Hope this helps.

Edited by rmaynard

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
wallfish

Yes, the threaded axle pivot for the castle nut should be welded to the frame.

 

The steering shaft is made from 3/4 steel rod with 2 holes drilled near the ends for roll pins. One hole for the steering wheel and one hole for the roll pin that holds that block on the ground (67) you highlighted in green. That block connects to the steering link in the pic above to steer the spindles. The 5/16 rod steering link (78) connects to the steering lug (67) and the spindle with pins (77) that swivel in the holes. Both Pins are #77 in the drawing.

 

The tube on the frame is made from DOM tube or mechanical tubing (which ever you prefer to call it). 3/4 ID x 1 OD. forgot how long but we can get you that dimension.

 

The last pic you posted above has the tierod (12) on backwards. The steering link (78) should be connected to the other side

Edited by wallfish

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
posifour11

I have one in pieces now. If you need additional pictures, let me know and I'll take some tomorrow.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pezsox

Well you guys inspired me so last night I tore the whole damn thing down. This hopefully will make it easier.

 

- I obviously need to torch, grind, and smooth the funky plate that was welded to the frame.

 

- I would need to fabricate the piece that is attached to the frame for the steering shaft to go into. Does anyone have a spare or a cad drawing. I have a pic that I would certainly need to know the dimensions that I listed, and angle if possible. This info helps tremendously - thanks

"The tube on the frame is made from DOM tube or mechanical tubing (which ever you prefer to call    it).3/4 ID x 1 OD"

 

I took pics of what I have for the front end.

 

- I am obviously missing

    - the tie rod that controls steering

    - the block with 2 holes that attaches to tie rod, and steering shaft

    - need to remove long bar/pin and replace

 

still a little iffy on the rest and holes and setup, but I appreciate all the help. It might not be nearly as bad as I thought. I am hoping to salvage the frame, but who knows. If anyone has any of these pieces I would appreciated a tag back.

 

On a different area, I am delivering my Kohler 90 engine today to a guy who has worked on them before, so hopefully it will be good news. it is a 1 owner engine, so now lets find out how good that one owner was. My mother in law thought he added the steering mechanism to work with a snow plow he has, so maybe a power steering thing, either way, it is gone now.

 

post-10744-0-59369200-1384975127_thumb.j

post-10744-0-99639500-1384975153_thumb.j

post-10744-0-17157500-1384975173_thumb.j

post-10744-0-89230200-1384975193.jpg

post-10744-0-87735900-1384975201.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pezsox

thanks to everyone for the help. I was able to get the ridiculous cobbled mess at least kind of back in line with how this came from the factory. first and foremost I was able to torch off the plate that was installed, welded a collar for the steering wheel shaft, added a zerk for grease, and now just a little bit of grinding to do to make it "pretty"

 

now for part 2 of front end redo.

 

I found this pic online and have a few questions.

 

1. does anyone have either drawings or dimensions for the hi-lited green pieces, or does anyone have any for sale.

2. if you have one and I paid for mailing to me and back to you, can I use them for a fabricator to use as live dimension (I live in Washington)

3. does anyone on the forum live in Washington State?

4. The blue pieces hi-lited, do they have snap rings at the top of  the shaft that slides thru arm? I have seen some with nuts, snap rings, nothing (I assume the weight alone would hold them in??

 

nex post I will call #2 - more questions! There is no way that I could have started this without this forum. Thanks

post-10744-0-20752000-1385141436_thumb.j

post-10744-0-25398800-1385141448_thumb.j

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pezsox

Well I am definately taking an inventory of what I will be needing and what I will be missing. I have read diligently thru the forum and am still looking for advice on a few of these pieces. I would love to have a static forum topic with names that everyone respects that deliver good quality in a timely manner. I would love any advice on these pieces you got, or if you have left overs...

 

after taking notes I am certainly going to be needing:

4 new tires

1 front rim

1 exhaust shield

1 belt cover

1 recoil starter for a Kohler 90

some front end pieces (#1 and so it begins describes)

All decals

 

I have my engine being looked at by "an old guy that used to work on these" as he claims. So since there is compression, there is hope. Next up transmission needs to be gone thru. I am hopeful that everything looks great. A little surface prep will go a long way.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pezsox

never looked in the link sections....haha

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
AMC RULES

Maybe placing a wanted ad in the classified section would help. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
CasualObserver

I'm going to merge your two topics together.  I think it's nicer to keep going in one single post if you don't mind... that way we can follow your project from start to finish.  No need to start a new topic.  (it might also get confusing later as people try to comment on both posts... you'll end up repeating stuff in both anyway!)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pezsox

i wondered about that, tried to give it the same title. I appreciate it thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pezsox

.

Finally got some free time to work on my tractor project. I have finished the cobbled mess of a front steering. I also got enough information gathered from this fine group to get a few pieces made that I just havent been able to track down. (this would have been so much easier had the front end been left alone)

 

1. found out my engine has good compression and I will just need a carb tuneup

2. welded and fixed the steering mechanism - just wating for the steering block, and pins pins to be made so that I can get a tie rod made

3. grinded and painted the frame

4. grinded, sanded, soda blasted and cleaned mostly all of my parts

5. primered and painted most of my pieces. Wow is that  alot of red!

 

just waiting on my engine to come back from the shop, and my steering pieces to be made. Now its getting somewhere

 

 

post-10744-0-63777400-1386029537.jpg

post-10744-0-90240600-1386029550.jpg

post-10744-0-88434100-1386029567.jpg

post-10744-0-92364000-1386029590.jpg

post-10744-0-89723800-1386029608.jpg

post-10744-0-33976200-1386029617.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • CasualObserver
      By CasualObserver
      Operator manual
      Illustrated parts list
      6 pages 3.73MB
       
      Illustrated parts list #A-7136
      Includes PSB #023 #052 #058 #060 #080
      10 pages 938.48KB
       
      Engines used according to Toro
      Clinton B1290-1107
      Kohler K91-31307A
      Kohler K91-31388A
      Electric start kit
      Electric starter kit model EC-35 for Clinton engine - Listed for 1958 and 1959
      Electric starter kit model EK-35 for Kohler engine - Listed for 1958 and 1959
       
      6-12 tire chains model TC-12 - Listed for 1958 and 1959
       
      Seat cushion Foam rubber with imitation leather cover model FC-24 - Listed for 1958 and 1959
       
      Transmission drive belt 1567 - (4L x 29" or 1/2" x 29")
       
      Details & Attachments
      2 pages 107.33KB
       
      1958 model RJ-58
      1958 serial numbers that have shown up for the RJ-58
      Early models used Kohler K90T-27107D equipped with a Schnacke recoil unit with a backup rope starter contained under the recoil assembly and an oil bath air filter.
      00005
      00251
      01099 - No casting date on trans. Leather gearshift boot, large, round rear wheel hubs, "slab" hitch, replacement engine
      01188 - Has round rear wheel hubs
      01516
      01768
      01789 - No casting date on trans. Leather gearshift boot, 3-ear triangular rear wheel hubs, "slab" hitch, Clinton engine with Schnacke recoil
      01797
      01871
      02525
      03177
      03501 - Located in UK
      03796 - Kohler K90T-27107D with serial 364044 equipped with a Schnacke recoil unit with a backup rope starter contained under the recoil assembly and an oil bath air filter.
      04883
      04885
      05000
      05619
      05714
      05798
      06528 - May be 16528
      06749
      06771
      07633
      07649 - Transmission J12-8 October 12, 1958
      07725
      08440
      08612
      09284
      09337 - Hard to read
      10163
      11432
      11628 - # 3521 spline gear with 10 splines changed to 11 splines in 5003 and 5010 transmissions at serial # 11628 PSB #023
      11916
      12221 - B3-9 trans casting date - Kohler K91 engine with Schnacke recoil
      12291
      14473
      14713
      16097
      16528 - May be 06528
      166x6
      16868 - F4-9 trans casting date - Kohler K91 engine with Fairbanks recoil, solid pan seat without holes
      18348
      June 2023
      18500 and lower 
      Late 1958 units came with a Kohler K-91T-31307A equipped with a Schnacke recoil unit with a backup rope starter contained under the recoil assembly and an oil bath air filter.
      ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
       
      Details & Attachments
      2 pages 106.94KB
       
      1959 model RJ-59
      1959 serial numbers that have shown up for the RJ-59
      Early 1959 units came with a Kohler K-91T-31307A equipped with a Schnacke recoil unit with a backup rope starter contained under the recoil assembly and an oil bath air filter.
      18501 and up - Possible 1100 units built
      20078 - Located in UK
      203xx
      21033
      292xx
      21900 - 1960 Suburban 400 began production at serial #21900 somewhere around Aug-Oct 1959.
      Late model RJ-59 tractors with a Kohler would have a K-91T-31388A with the Fairbanks recoil starter and paper air filter element. The 31388A was also used on the 1960 Suburban 400.
      K91T-31388A Serial 425251 found on RJ-59
    • clip
      By clip
      Wheel Horse RJ-58 with RMR-32 deck and a slot hitch cultivator for sale. I got this cleaned up, motor swapped from a giant old 3hp Briggs (got rid of the spacers the previous owner had under the hood) and rebuilt the mower deck with new bearings, bearing blocks and gear covers, found two sets of NOS blade tips, mowed the yard five or six times and it's ready to go to a new home. Found that the model/serial were hand-stamped on the frame alongside the tag. Weld-repaired some cracks on the RMR-32 and the slot hitch. I don't have the room or time to do a proper restoration. As it sits, it's a solid mowing machine that's ready to work for another 50 years.
       
      The good:
      Great running Predator 212cc, trimmed airbox and routed exhaust to work with hood
      Cleaned gas tank and new gas line/filter
      New shifter boot
      New belts
      Fresh grease in all fittings
      Flushed and fresh gear lube in transmission
      New bearings in RMR-32 spindles
      New bearing blocks for RMR-32 driveshaft
      Solid deck, very few if any rust spots
      NOS hi-lift blade tips less than a season old
      Additional set of NOS hi-lift blade tips
      Smooth-shifting transmission
      Original BFGoodrich/Firestone tires
      Tag/serial number still attached to frame
      Cultivator has been freed up and adjusts properly
       
       
      The not good:
      Weld-repaired front wheels
      Rear tire inner sidewalls starting to peel
      Hood has a few extra holes cut in
      No belt guards
      Right rear hub had a bolt driven into the key slot and stripped the threads - I removed it and cleaned up the keyslot, added another threaded hole and put a set screw and fresh key in. The hub has been shimmed on the shaft with brass stock to take up some slack left by the old bolt and shaft wallowing it out slightly.
       














    • Robert Concato
      By Robert Concato
      Hi I'm new to site. I am looking for a gas tank for an RJ 35 Tractor any help would be great thanks!
    • wh315-8
      By wh315-8
      Looking for the measurements for items #69 mounting bracket and #79 lifting rod. So that I could fabricate and be able to install on my RJ59. Any pics of the mounting bracket would be a big help.
    • Clay Dodson
      By Clay Dodson
      RAINES AUCTIONS **LIVE AUCTION SEPT 16TH @ 10:00 AM WITH PREVIEW FRIDAY 9:00-5:00 AND ON SATURDAY @ 8:00 AM UNTIL AUCTION TIME**   <CLICK HERE FOR PARTIAL CATALOG>      ^^PRE REGISTER NOW TO AVOID LONG LINES ON THE MORNING OF THE AUCTION.  CALL KATIE AT 540 775 3880, SHE WILL ISSUE YOU A BIDDERS NUMBER.  THEN JUST SHOW YOUR ID AND PICK UP YOUR BID CARD ON FRIDAY AFTERNOON OR SATURDAY MORNING^^           See below for 3 preview videos of the BIGGEST selection ever of Farm Tractors, Garden & Yard Tractors, Riding & Push Mowers, Implements, Bush Hogs, Finish Mowers, Chain Saws, Weed Eaters, Generators, Snow Blowers, Chippers, Tillers and tons MORE all SOLD ABSOLUTE RAIN OR SHINE!!!!    Including 80+ Wheel Horse Tractors, Wheel Horse Raider Models 10, 12, 211-4, 656, 416-8, C-160, Wheel Horse Charger Models 12, GT-14, A100, C160, D160, D200 w/blade, 310 B, 856, 317, 332, 854, 212-6, 211-5, 520-8, 211-3, C-120, Lawn Ranger,  Antique & Rare Tractors including David Bradley Suburbans, Panzer T707 & Chain Driven Bolens, John Deere Models 650, 110, 112 L, 70, 420, 214, 316, 317, 318, 160, 111, 116, 212, 216, 332, Massey Ferguson 135 Diesel, Economy Power Kings & Jim Dandy models 1614, 2414, 2418 & others, Ford, 2 Yanmar 1500 & 2000, Simplicity Models 725 w/blade, 9020, 6216, Baron 7014, 7114, 2210, 3414, 637, 3012, 3410, 728, 3415, 3314, 7116, 7117, 5116 Special, 6211, 9020, Early Speedex Chain Driven Tractor, Scarce Very Clean Pennsylvania Meteor Model 1010, Gravely, Allis Chalmers, Case, Turf Trac, Toro, Cub Cadet, Troy Bilt, Honda, Craftsman and many many others.    ***CLICK HERE FOR PREVIEW VIDEO #1***   ***PREVIEW VIDEO #2***   ****PREVIEW VIDEO #3***     ##LOAD OUT TERMS ARE AS FOLLOWS## THERE WILL BE AN INDEPENDENT PERSON LOADING OUT LARGE MOWERS & TRACTORS FOR $10 PER UNIT IF YOU NEED THAT SERVICE.  DUE TO THE LACK OF ROOM, THERE WILL BE *NO* LOADING USING LARGE EQUIPMENT UNTIL AFTER 2:00 PM. WE WILL SELL THE TRACTORS & EQUIPMENT IN THE FRONT AREA FIRST SO LOAD OUT CAN START ONCE WE ARE DONE WITH THAT AREA, ABOUT 2:00 PM.  YOU WILL ALSO BE ABLE TO LOAD OUT ALL DAY SUNDAY, MONDAY AND TUESDAY THE 19TH UNTIL 5:00 PM.  AT THAT POINT, ANY ITEMS LEFT BEHIND WILL BE SALVAGED UNLESS YOU HAVE PRIOR PERMISSION FROM THE AUCTIONEERS, RAY RAINES OR CLAY DODSON.   ^^SPECIAL RATES AT THE ZION CROSSROADS BEST WESTERN (WHICH IS ONLY 3 MILES FROM THE SALE) IF YOU MENTION RAINES AUCTIONS^^  CALL 540 832 1700 AND REMEMBER TO MENTION RAINES AUCTIONS TO SAVE$$$~     **CLICK HERE FOR HOTEL ACCOMMODATIONS SUGGESTIONS**    Mark your calendar now for this Colossal auction that is not to be missed~    Ray Raines Auctions VA License #3395
×
×
  • Create New...