JHawk 4 #1 Posted November 4, 2013 Ok guys, I bought a FrankenHorse over a year ago and still have issues. I'm down to this. The Horse by stickers is a Raider 12 but by numbers on engine it is a K241 with a starter generator, coil, points and condenser. However, a previous owner installed a newer ignition switch (BSYGM--only using the B and S) with a solenoid and a push button starter. I'm guessing he was cutting the cost of buying the original switch. I have recently rewired the whole tractor with new wires (the old ones were frayed and all over the place--I like to keep it tidy) but trying to keep things wired the way the previous guy did it because it ran when I got it. Now that I'm all done I can finally get it to start but it won't stay running unless I keep the key ignition turned to the start position. Does anyone have any ideas as to what's up? Is it just a bad switch? Bad solenoid? Is there a simpler solution? I'm not concerned at this point at restoration--I just need to get some work done in the yard. I really only know enough to get myself into this kind of trouble--I like tinkering but I'd rather be tearing up my yard with the cultivator. Thanks guys joel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,569 #2 Posted November 4, 2013 B is bat and S is start. You need an I wired for ignition. Did the P.O. Have another switch on it like on off? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,020 #3 Posted November 4, 2013 I don't know for sure on your switch, but the "M" is probably maintain, meaning it is on in start and run position. If you have a 12 volt test light or meter go from ground to the "B" terminal and it should read 12, in the run position see what terminals have voltage, make a note of them. Now do the same thing in the start position. There should be one that has voltage in both positions, that one will go to the coil. Good luck and let us know how it comes out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,569 #4 Posted November 4, 2013 (edited) M is usually magneto . It grounds the mag to shut it off. If there is an M it has the wrong switch. Edited November 4, 2013 by squonk 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,020 #5 Posted November 4, 2013 M is usually magneto . It grounds the mag to shut it off. If there is an M it has the wrong switch. Thanks, I wouldn't want to give out bad info. What would the "Y" and "G" be? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,569 #6 Posted November 5, 2013 I believe g is ground if the switch is mounted in plastic. I've never seen y on a switch. Could be alternator or load maybe. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wallfish 15,770 #7 Posted November 5, 2013 The 5th one down is for a battery ignition engine like yours. B=battery (+) I=ignition (+ side of coil) S=start ( small terminal on solenoid) A=aux (use for lights or ...)R=regulator http://www.psep.biz/store/toro_mower_electrical_parts.htm Your switch with an M is for a magneto fired engine The wire you have going to your coil must be connected to the S terminal on your switch. The 6th one down shows a switch with the Y. Don't know what that stands for Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,563 #8 Posted November 5, 2013 grab the correct ignition switch p# 103990 and use the diagram below for your wiring 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Save Old Iron 1,563 #9 Posted November 5, 2013 your current ignition switch is intended for a magneto based ignition system - spend another $15 and wire the tractor properly for a coil based ignition system. The proper 103990 switch will supply 12 volts to the starter and ignition coil in the START position and continue to supply 12 volts to the "I" terminal when the switch is released to the RUN position. the M terminal is for "magneto" and it will ground out the M terminal when the ignition system is turned to the off position. Grounding the magneto will shut off the ignition system. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JHawk 4 #10 Posted November 5, 2013 (edited) Thanks guys, I'll look for a new ignition start. My only confusion is that however it was wired, which I thought I wired it back the way it was, it worked when I got it. I feel like maybe somehow the switch was wired so that it would act like a kill switch but other than that wasn't actually necessary since it has an added push button start--the guy I bought it from said it was wired around the key switch but I know wires were going to it. The original diagram doesn't show using a solenoid with the push button start (it's diagrammed as one or the other)--is that a problem? By the way, sorry--it is an L not a Y. had y written in my notes from a different switch I'd seen. thanks guys joel Edited November 5, 2013 by JHawk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,569 #11 Posted November 5, 2013 L would have been lights or load Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JHawk 4 #12 Posted November 5, 2013 figured it out guys. Instead of running the coil line to the S I ran it to the L which is on in the run position. Doing so makes the push button start the main starting mechanism, and turns the key switch into a kill switch when you turn it back to magneto. now she runs just fine. As whether this is safe or not I don't know, but someone thought it was and it seems to work for now. I welcome thoughts on safety. Like I said, I'm a novice at this. Thanks joel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites