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kj4kicks

Garage Update

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perry

looks awsome E!.... :banghead:

your making kelly jelouse :USA:

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KyBlue

Looks Good E .. Pretty smooth finish ya ended up with, that gonna cause a problem ??

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CasualObserver

Looks awesome E... can't wait to see Day 2! Are you shooting to have construction finished before winter?

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combatmp29r

Looks nice E :banghead: Now I meant to ask earlier, I see no drains. Is it all gonna be sloped to the drive with a trench drain there, or is the plan to keep everything inside so clean you never need to hose the floor down :omg: :USA:

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marshman

Looking good. wish i We that bigger garage to work in. Although we do have a decent size one as Dad does a lot of engine work

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HorseFixer

Hey Eldon Are you going to throw some sawcuts across there? I would suggest it. Burly

Looks Good Eldon! :banghead: Yep I Agree With Jon About Every 10' Would Be Good. I Hope You Keep The Pad Moist Slow Curing Is The Secret You Can Cover With Plastic After Wetting Down I Just Poured 13 Yards On My Driveway For My Motor Home And Widening The Entrance, Looks Good!

Duke

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Brrly1

10-4 on keeping it moist or wet Duke!! Especially since it is so warm, I forgot to include that. Plastic will also help it cure quicker. Duke where would we be without you, 100% correct. In the winter they use blankets or burlap to cover in order to keep the heat in and just wet it so it will cure out quicker, and come back daily to repeat. Only some suggestions. Good Luck Burly :banghead: :USA:

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kj4kicks

Concrete, Day Two:

P9020479.JPG

P9030483.JPG

and a penny for good luck:

P9030484.JPG

Just shy of 17 yards total for both days. Sorry, no saw cuts, since it will all be interior soon. It was also coated with (I forget the name) a sealer/curing agent.

It's smooth enough to be easy to sweep, but not so much where it will be a hazard when it's wet. Floor drains are illegal :banghead:

The new garage is mostly for storage, so hopefully it won't get too dirty. The old garage is the work area. Framing to begin next week, and it should be under roof in a couple of weeks.

Everything is cleaned up, and the truck & trailer are packed. Time to grab a shower, and head for NAMA and a weekend with the Julian Family Robinson...

YAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHH

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Brrly1

Interior or exterior you really need to cut the floor! Concrete is guranteed to do two things get Hard and Crack!!! You are going to need more than that penny for Good Luck Signed 33yrs and counting of Concrete Sawing and Drilling I am not a beginner and doesn't matter if its inside or not. I have cut basement floors, slab homes,and many, many driveways for expanasion. And that is not even beginning to count the factories I have cut. I could start with the New Jeep plant here in Toledo, plus two of the Chrysler motor plants in Dundee, Michigan. I have to admit Eldon you must be feeling pretty lucky. Burly :banghead::USA::omg: :thumbs:

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Brrly1

I guess I will really be hiding under the chair after I ask this but you did put plastic between the stone and wire mesh that we see laying flat the picture? Correct? Now I am definitely hiding. See Ya Burly :banghead::USA::omg::thumbs::lol: :lol:

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Brrly1

Eldon Even when you use a curing agent, it would still be advisable to keep the slab wet. I guess I should shut up now and wait until you tell me that the concrete has cracked and if you have any luck it won't but I believe it will. Sorry my Opinion

Burly

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Brrly1

Oh yeah I am a Member of the local #886 out of Toledo, Ohio Burly

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kj4kicks

OK OK, not sure why I have to explain myself, but I'll try.

It's 3500 mix concrete, which is already stronger than the average stuff, and it's closer to 5" depth all over. There is also the reinforcing mat. It should be plenty strong. There is expansion joint between the two halves.

I had intended on using a vapor barrier, but after doing some research decided against it. I didn't want the slab to curl from uneven curing. Our area is mostly shale, and the base is about 10-12" of stone and crusher run than has been packed for about 5 years. Drainage and surface water are not a problem, and 90% of the floor is above grade level.

So why would I want to put saw cuts through the concrete and steel reinforcement? It would still crack, and probably actually crack easier since you now have individual pads. The only difference is that the cracks would be down in the cuts, where you can't see them.

I'm not sure why you felt the need to sound so condescending. Or maybe you were just trying to bump up your post count? No need to pick on somebody's project or theories. Make your point, and leave it at that. Maybe you could build some forms for some concrete weights?

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Brrly1

Alright I'll make my point I have cut concrete with 3 to 4 times the strength you have mentioned. Let me see roadways, landing strips and those are just things to start. Did you put fiber or staples in the crete? If you think I am doing it to bump up my count then just withdraw my name you are an adminstrator or thats what it says, If you would be cutting the wire mesh then I guess you would have it way to high. You are talking an 1 1/4" for a 5" slab. Its not my loss I really don't give two hoots The choice is yours. Sorry for the OPINION

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KyBlue

back on point... E ... Look forward to seeing the framing!!

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perry

back on point... E ... Look forward to seeing the framing!!

heck ya, when does the wood get delivered :banghead:

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linen beige

Eldon, Looking good!

I hope everyone realizes I don't mean my comments to sound like I'm slamming anybody, I'm just curious. Different techniques are used in different areas for many reasons.

I noticed your slab is floating out over the foundation. You can't do that in this area (Well, I guess you can, but it's not code.). The sill plates have to be at least 18 inches above grade or be made of or wrapped in steel for termite control. 24 inches is even more common. Because of this, nearly all the buildings in this area have the foundation walls put up to the needed height, and then the slab is poured inside the enclosing foundation with a slight caulked gap between them to allow for the expansion/contraction of the walls and floor. This also raises the sill plate up off the slab and out of any water that may find it's way onto the floor. It's a shame they won't let you put in a floor drain. I guess you'll just have to let the water flow out the doors and onto the ground, or into an outdoor french drain.

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KyBlue

heck ya, when does the wood get delivered :banghead:

Oh thats not the way to Phrase that... Hahaha :USA:

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refracman

:banghead: Lookin good Eldon :USA:

Bet with full sun on it you guys were on it fast!

Have fun at the show. :horseplay:

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Kelly

I am sooooo jelouse, I can't wait, to do mine, looks good E I'm sure will all be good.

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Duff

Whoa, boys! Who-o-o-a-a-a-a, thar! :D Let's tie our hosses to the hitchin' post and go over to the waterin' troth fer a splash of cold water in our faces. This bickerin' and jawbonin' just ain't the Red Square way! :lol: I don't know 'crete from barnyard mud, fellas, but I do know they's diffrunt ways to build everythin, and it's each to his own dependin' on a whole lotta stuff - cost, experience, local practice, wind direcshun, moon phase....get what I mean? E's got hisself a fine new barn under kenstructshun, and it's lookin' good! :USA: Brrly and others, I've just learnt a lot from yer posts myself, and thanks for that info! :omg:

Evryun's made their points now, so howsabout we go back to bein' friends and enjoying the progress on this heah barn/shop/garage thingy brother E is workin' his tail off to put up! :banghead:

Thanks fer lettin' me preach! :thumbs:

Duff :lol:

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T-Mo

Well said, Duff. I also know nothing about concrete, except it's expensive. And I can learn a lot from this thread, but then again, a lot of this info is above my head. And I can even stand on the top rung of my 8 foot step ladder and it's still plenty of clearance for this info to fly overhead. :banghead:

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kj4kicks

Hi Guys, Alot of the wood is already there. I drive past Lowe's twice a day, so I've been gathering it up since last week. All of the pressure treated sill plates, top plates, and header materials are there. About 2/3 of the studs and the hurricane bracing lumber is already there also. Still on the list are 40 studs, the plywood for the roof and wall corners, and celotex & foam board for the exterior.

The trusses are on order, and should be there in in about a week. Garage door will arrive in about 3 weeks.

Framing begins Monday evening, after I get back from NAMA and get caught up on packing orders from the weekend. Also need to take the 314 for a little ride to mow grass at my sister's place.

Jim, Floating slabs are ok in my area. The original garage was done that way, and it is still allowed now. It's nice that I can match what is already there. The top row of block were caps, for termite protection. I can tell you, this one will be better secured than the original. They only had cut nails attaching the walls to the floor. This one has 1/2" anchor bolts every 4'.

Time to go re-arrange the cargo and head to the show!

Later guys.....

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T-Mo

Sounds good, E. Is this garage going to have heat and/or cooling? I do remember you not being able to paint this summer due to the humidity.

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linen beige

Ah!, plywood sheeting. Non of that el-cheapo OSB fer a 'Horseman! Way to go E. I noticed the floating slab on the older portion and was just commenting that it isn't allowed here ( although some folks still do it that way.) I also noticed all those J hooks for the sills, Looks plenty stout!

Those cap blocks and treated sills won't stop termites from crawling up the outside of the foundation, but would force them into the open where you can keep an eye out for them. You may consider using a metal flashing under the sills and a couple feet up the walls under the siding, but you know what the termite threats are up there much better than I.

Have a good trip to NAMA and hurry back and get this thing finished. We want to see the insides covered with red overspray!

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