Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
rwlvt

Brakes on 212-6

Recommended Posts

rwlvt

Hi folks,

 

I'm new here, but I've been scouring this site and others for information on a 212-6 that I recently acquired.  I managed to find and replace front axle for it.  Otherwise, it seems to be in really good shape.  One issue is that it doesn't seem to brake effectively.  It goes just fine, but it doesn't stop well.  (Found this out the hard way.)

 

Finding information on how to adjust the brakes hasn't been easy.  I did find the following site that has a neat little description on page 21 (page 25 in the PDF), but the pictures are pretty grainy, and my attempts to follow the directions haven't worked out so far.

 

http://www.mywheelhorse.com/graphics/file/Tractors/Tractor_1986_200-300-400_OM_810399R1.pdf

 

I've attached a picture with a pointer to the adjusting nut.  Turning it several turns to the left, however, doesn't seem to allow the wheel to turn freely as described in the manual.  And, it seems like to get more braking power, I would want to turn the nut to the right anyway.  Anyone have any experience adjusting the brakes on a 212?  Your help would be appreciated.

 

post-11608-0-39045100-1378681633_thumb.j

 

 

Thanks in advance,

Ron

Edited by rwlvt

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
chazm

1st off WELCOME TO R/S Ron - your brake set up is used on a lot of vert shaft riding mowers. there are 2 pins behind the arm that seize up in the housing. Just remove the nut, arm & housing. There are 2 small brake pucks on each side of the disc, clean everything up & reassy. That nut you pointed too does tighten to adj brakes

Chasm

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Howie

The first thing I do is make sure the two pins under that lever are free. They tend to rust and stick in their bores. Usually have to remove lever and free them up. Sometimes 

when this happens brake pads will be worn out from brake not releasing. Free pins, reassemble and adjust brake turning nut to the right (clockwise) until brake will hold with

pedal depressed.

 

David

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca

If you remove the 2 small bolts holding the caliper on it should allow you to pull the disc off. It sits on a splined shaft and must slide on the splines freely. Don't lose the brake pad behind it. Remove pins, clean and coat pins, spline, adjustment stud threads and the mounting bolt threads with Never-seize.

 

Good for another 25 years.

 

Garry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
rwlvt

Thank you all!  This is just what I needed to gain the confidence to disassemble the brake.  I'll let you know how it turns out.  Do you know the brake is not even in the drawing from the toro/wheelhorse web site for the brake and clutch linkage?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca

Thank you all!  This is just what I needed to gain the confidence to disassemble the brake.  I'll let you know how it turns out.  Do you know the brake is not even in the drawing from the toro/wheelhorse web site for the brake and clutch linkage?

That is correct because it is part of the transmission and it is supported by Peerless.

 

Parts list

 

Service manual

 

Garry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
rwlvt

Just a final note to say thanks for your advice.  The assembly was actually simpler than I expected.  The strange thing is that the pins were really not frozen.  I think the whole thing was simply so far out of adjustment that it couldn't possibly work.  Still, I cleaned it up, greased the pins, reassembled and adjusted according to the service manual.  I now have brakes.  Now, on to an electrical problem...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
LengerichKA88

Okay, I hate to resurrect a dead thread, BUT! 

If these bolts are missing, what are the correct dimensions for replacemts? I’ve looked and looked and can’t find anything on the actual size of these bolts (circled in yellow). My buddy just got a 212-5 and didn’t realize till he was loaded that someone had racthet strapped it in place, as both the bolts are missing. Again, sorry for redirecting a dead thread, but TIA!! 

F104AF60-263A-4EA5-9D0D-14AC911AE486.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
gwest_ca

If I have the correct transmission and part 42a it is

1/4-20 x 1-1/4" - that is coarse thread.

Make sure you add never-seize as they corrode real fast being threaded into aluminum. Click on the picture and download from the next page.

Garry

  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
LengerichKA88
1 hour ago, gwest_ca said:

If I have the correct transmission and part 42a it is

1/4-20 x 1-1/4" - that is coarse thread.

Make sure you add never-seize as they corrode real fast being threaded into aluminum. Click on the picture and download from the next page.

Garry

Thanks Garry! 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Similar Content

    • jmack
      By jmack
      I’m looking for a transmission dipstick to a D-180. Let me know if you see one. 
    • wheeledhorseman
      By wheeledhorseman
      Operator manual #810296R1
      4 pages 848.00KB

      IPL from Toro Master Parts Viewer
      2 pages 171.30KB

      Fits
      1983 B-Series and LT-Series See Product Service bulletin
      1984 B-Series and LT-Series
      1985-1986 200-Series
      For vertical shaft 200 series models 1985 onwards but was also used with 1979-80 B series models (supplied with different lift rod) Fits for example B-165 or 216-5.

      Dozer 1983 42in model 06-42BB02 Complete
      1983 serial numbers that have shown up for the 06-42BB02
      19345
      20452 - Build date 1983 3259 September 16 Friday
      20551 - Build date 1983 3259 September 16 Friday [259] Guess


      Dozer 1984 42in model 06-42BB02 Complete
      1984 serial numbers that have shown up for the 06-42BB02
      23294 - Build date 1984 4193 July 12 Thursday

      Dozer 1985 42in model 06-42BB02 Complete

      Dozer 1986 42in model 06-42BB02 Complete

      Link to service bulletin
      http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/469-wh61-90-315-snow-equipment-1982pdf/
    • Doug B
      By Doug B
      Hey guys,I have a dilemma I need some help with. I have a 1969 GT 14 that I replaced the transmission and pump on. For about 2 weeks afterward everything worked great, but while mowing at a pretty good pace I noticed a shudder and the tractor slowed a little but not bad. The more I rode it the slower it got until it barely moves. What stumps me is the hydraulics are still very strong,as in I can back the 3 point under the bumper of my truck and if you lift the arms all the way up the front wheels of the tractor will clear the ground. Have checked the tow valve and checked the internal filter,but no luck. I have also checked and replaced the forward and reverse bypass springs and the lever is moving the cam to full travel, forward and reverse. Any help would be appreciated.
    • mattd860
      By mattd860
      I have developed a kit that allows a Wheel Horse / Toro hydrostatic tractor to be operated by a pedal on the right side of the tractor. The original forward/reverse lever can be retained or removed. The kit includes everything needed to install the pedal kit and installation is simple with the help of a downloadable installation manual. Additionally, only one (1) 1/4" hole will need to be drilled which can be done by a hand drill. No other drilling or cutting will be necessary. Any tractor with this kit can be converted back to stock without any visible evidence that kit was installed. However, you'll never want to do that

      The kit operates very simply and similar to modern tractors. When the pedal is pushed forwards the tractor will move forwards. When the reverse pedal is pressed downwards, the tractor will moved in reverse. If the operator takes his foot of the pedal at any time, the pedal will automatically center itself and the hydrostatic transmission will return to neutral (stop). This enables the operator to use both hands on the steering wheel or one hand on the wheel and the other operating an attachment like a snow blower, plow, etc.

      The foot pedal is custom cast in Aluminum, uses brass bushings to minimize wear, and it closely matches the OEM Wheel Horse BRAKE pedal commonly found on 8-speed manual transmission tractors. Modifications were done to the pedal to add the reverse pedal and adapt the pedal to the rest of the kit. For the most part, the pedal looks like it was designed and manufactured by Wheel Horse / Toro. Additionally, a grease fitting has been adapted to the pedal to further minimize wear and tear and if the brass bushings ever wear out they are fully replaceable without having to buy a whole new pedal. 

      The pedal kit fits the following series tractors with Eaton hydrostatic transmissions: C-1X5, 300, 400, 500. 
       
      My kit can be adapted to older hydrostatic tractors with the Sundstrand transmission, however, you will need to find an updated hydro cam commonly found on ebay. Message me for more information. 
       
      Here is a link where you can download the installation manual: CLICK HERE
       
      I am selling these kits for $330 shipped to anywhere in the United States. I offer multi order discounts as well. I will also sell to other countries for additional shipping charges to be determined.
       
      If anyone has any questions please feel free to PM me or post your question here and I will be glad to help. Or you can email me at mattdarling02@hotmail.com.

      Thanks!
       
       
      Below are pictures of the complete kit and the pedal installed on the tractor. Some modifications have been made since these pictures were taken. For example, the reverse pedal is now cast in aluminum instead of the steel pedal shown below. 
       

       

       

       

       

       
    • Dylan2342
      By Dylan2342
      New here! hello everyone! In a bit of a pickle here. My father owns a 1993 (I think that is the right year) 520H Wheel Horse. I don't commonly work on tractors but it seemed simple enough. the axle snapped on the left side, so it needed a new transmission. My dad bought a used transmission and I went to work changing everything out. The hydraulic pump that the engine's drive belt attaches to went to a different model/year of tractor, so I had to remove that part and swap it in from the old transmission. In the process I lost all of the oil in the pump (I mention this because I wonder if it has to do with my problem I'm having). When I reassembled everything I started the slow process of filling the transmission. I filled it up and started the engine. When moving the lever forward or backward, it had a tiny bit of power for a little bit and then lost power. The transmission wasn't doing anything, anymore. I though maybe that hydraulic pump needed to be primed, so we took the top hydraulic line off of the hydraulic pump right above the drive belt and used a transfer pump to pump some oil into the pump case. This still didn't work. I don't have enough experience with these hydrostatic transmissions to know if we got a bad transmission or if there is something obvious that I am missing when it comes to a transmission swap. I ask for any insight and help please. If you need pictures or any other info, then let me know what you need. Thank you!
×
×
  • Create New...