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Gumshu

310-8 Electrical Issues

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Gumshu

OK, I believe that my problem started 2 summers ago. I have been chasing it ever since. It would have intermitent starting problems. I would turn the key and get nothing. No click, no starter engage, nothing. I'd do this several times and them blam- fires right up. I had the starter rebuilt, replaced ALL safety switches, solenoid, battery, key switch, relay and the problem remains. I can jump the solenoid to start it without issues. It will not shut down with the key switch either. I have to choke it to death to kill the engine.

 

My tractor is Wheel Horse 21-10K806 with Kohler 461533 (M10)

 

If anyone has any brilliant ideas, I'm all ears. Thanks in advance.

 

I would also like to note that when i turn the key to the first position i get approx 13 volts on the voltmeter on the dash. When I turn the key to start, it drops to ZERO.

Edited by Gumshu

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gwest_ca

The 1989 M10 requires the ignition wire to be grounded to shut the engine off and your ignition switch should do it. Check your grounds. Do you know how to do that? Have a voltmeter for testing purposes? An intermittent bad ground could be your only problem. Where does the negative cable from the battery bolt to the tractor?

 

Garry

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Gumshu

I do have a voltmeter but I'm not a wiz with it. The negative from the battery bolts to the frame behind the dash on the right hand side. There are 3 wires total that ground at that same point on the tractor.

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GlenPettit

I had the exact same starting problem my my '89 312-8:

In my case it was simple, was the PTO safety switch -- a switch screw had loosened, allowing the switch to slide back slightly and the PTO did not fully depress the switch lever, this happened intermediately for months before I found the problem.  There are several other safety switches on your tractor exactly like this, that have to be fully depressed to work;  the seat switch can also loosen or its plunger can wear/break, the clutch switch can loosen, -- any of these will prevent the engine from starting (also, these wire connections can oxidize after 24 years).

 

"If I got mad during those months of not-starting, and jumped up-and-down on the seat, kicked the tires, wiggled the tractor, said things I shouldn't, then, all-of-a-sudden, WOW, it would start  .  .  .  got to be a regular starting habit until I found the real problem."

 

Edited by GlenPettit

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boovuc

Wow! The 310-8 must be a hot bed for electrical issues! :< )

My 310 won't shut off "sometimes" with the key. Our switch is a 6 prong switch with the extra tab being nothing but a ground wire from the switch's case to the frame. That kills it and if you have a bad ground from the switch, it won't shut off!

 

Now in regard to starting........Again, check grounds. Here is what I would do based on past experience with my 310 and a buggy until recently 416-8.

 

1. DISCONNECT THE BATTERY AND REMOVE IT FROM THE TRACTOR! (Yes I yelled that but you must do this to continue).

2. Remove the bolt holding all the grounds just behind the dash that you referred to in your post earlier.

3. With a file or sandpaper, make all those ends on the cables shine.

4. Remove any rust at the point of contact where those ends meet the frame/dash assembly. Ream the inside of the bolt hole too.

5. Clean up the bolt also and put it all back together tight.

6. Remove the connector from the ignition switch and spray it with contact cleaner. Spray the tabs on the back of the switch too.

7. Put the connector on and off several time finally leaving it on.

8. Remove one wire at a time from the solenoid cleaning the end wire(s) and the posts gently.

9. Remove the heavy duty wire from the starter and do likewise.

10. Pull the fuse from your largest fuse holder. (15 or 20 amp, can't remember), and you will likely see debris in the fuse tabs. (Shop vac it out)!

11. Next, find a small thin blade screwdriver that fits in the slots the fuse uses and gently push it in and out a little ways. Don't push it all the way in! (Do this a few times. More than 10 times and you should seek counseling)!

12. If the fuse ends are discolored or tarnished, touch them up too or replace the fuse. Put the fuse back in the holder!

13. Next, disconnect the connector in front of the motor and spray both ends with contact cleaner. Plug it back together a couple times leaving it connected.

14. Connect the battery and see if this cured it.

 

If it did...........repeat everything we did above BUT.................before reconnecting anything, place some dielectric grease on each electrical connector so you don't have to keep repeating this in the future. Some say it does nothing. I think it helps cut down on corrosion. 

Let us know how you made out!

Good Luck!

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Gumshu

Alright, I re-did ALL of the grounds last night and nothing. I also triple checked my new safety switches. They are engaging and working properly. Tonight, wiring diagram in hand, I will track down the problem. While I'm at it, I will give boovucs suggestion a try. Thanks to GlenPettit and Gwest_ca for the suggestions. They weren't the fix but the fix has to start somewhere. :) I will report back tomorrow am. Wish me luck.

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boovuc

Also.......please make sure your battery is charged up. Put it on a charger just to make sure.

Good Luck!

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Gumshu

OK, I believe my issue(s) was actually 2 things. 2 Years ago when this all started i believe was an intermittent key switch ground issue. I replaced the switch but never put it back into the dash as I was doing my testing so therefore, not getting it grounded. After I realized my error, I put the switch into the dash and worked my way around to the bad relay. So, After replacing and properly grounding the key and replacing the relay, the 310-8 is back in action. Thanks to everyone for the help.

Edited by Gumshu

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boovuc

Glad to hear that!

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