arm clutch rod removal

[J Man 0]

Hi All,  new member here

 

I'm pretty excited, I just picked up a 1984 C- 165 8 speed earlier this week. WIll post some pics when I take some.

 

I managed to break the arm clutch rod on my tractor as I was trying to loosen the trunion that the threaded rod goes through. New one on order, but i am having a very difficult time removing the part of the  broken arm clutch rod  piece that still remains on the rod that goes through the frame (attaches to the pulley on the far end). The pin spirol must be in there still (as the tractor drives), but I cannot figure out how to remomove the pin. I origionally thought it was a allen screw in there, but my allen wrench went right through the hole, presumably through the pin spirol? Assuming the piece will just slide off once spirol is removed?

 

Not very mechanically inclined on this end (yet). Your advice is much appreciated.

 

Thanks!

Jason

[WH854 44]

Hi All,  new member here

 

I'm pretty excited, I just picked up a 1984 C- 165 8 speed earlier this week. WIll post some pics when I take some.

 

I managed to break the arm clutch rod on my tractor as I was trying to loosen the trunion that the threaded rod goes through. New one on order, but i am having a very difficult time removing the part of the  broken arm clutch rod  piece that still remains on the rod that goes through the frame (attaches to the pulley on the far end). The pin spirol must be in there still (as the tractor drives), but I cannot figure out how to remomove the pin. I origionally thought it was a allen screw in there, but my allen wrench went right through the hole, presumably through the pin spirol? Assuming the piece will just slide off once spirol is removed?

 

Not very mechanically inclined on this end (yet). Your advice is much appreciated.

 

Thanks!

Jason

Could this picture help you out?

[WH854 44]

Your model# for your tractor should be(11-16K801) if you put this model#  here it will give you a parts break down and a parts list also!

https://lookup3.toro.com/partdex/index.cfm?xCaller=Toro

 

Chas

[J Man 0]

Thanks Chas, you are correct on the model number. It is part 18 in the diagram above that snapped, right where the hole for the spring is.  the pin (#17) is either not there, and the piece is rusted on, or the pin is more of a ver small tube that I can push a tiny wire straight through. I can't seem to make the remaining piece of #18 off of #21. I see #21 is not threaded where it goes through #18, but I an hesitant to horse anything too much. If it is rusted on, is there an easy way to get rusted part apart?

 

thanks,

Jason

[Callen 64]

That pin is hollow. I think it is 5/32. Drive it out with a 5/32 pin punch. Then try to drive the shaft out through it with a flat ended punch. If the shaft don't move with a few hits, put some heat on the broken part.

[bitten 133]

Hello and welcome to the Square Jason.

You can get some penetrating oil like PB Blaster and spray it to help loosen up the pin( if you are going to be doing a lot of work on it you will want some). Then use the proper size punch and push it out. There are special punch's for this but sometimes you can get lucky with a standard punch. Just take your time and make sure your punch is lined up straight. 

Good Luck.

[J Man 0]

Thanks guys. PB blaster is applied, going to give it a go one evening this week. Will report port back how it goes. 

 

Jason

[doc724 924]

If you do not have a 5/32 pin punch, in a pinch a nail set will do.  You may have to use a couple of sizes since nail sets are tapered.  This is how I took mine apart

[J Man 0]

well guys, spent some time on this tonight. Got the wheel weight and wheel off pretty easy. But I am having one heck of a time with that pin and getting pretty frustrated. Soaked it with PB blaster a few times over the last few days, took the belt off on the far side of the fram so i could rotate the clutch arm rod to give better access, and still can't get the pin to budge via the pin punch.  Don't have a torch to heat it up, so wondering if i need to go pick one up at the store and give that a try. Any more ideas?

[WH854 44]

well guys, spent some time on this tonight. Got the wheel weight and wheel off pretty easy. But I am having one heck of a time with that pin and getting pretty frustrated. Soaked it with PB blaster a few times over the last few days, took the belt off on the far side of the fram so i could rotate the clutch arm rod to give better access, and still can't get the pin to budge via the pin punch.  Don't have a torch to heat it up, so wondering if i need to go pick one up at the store and give that a try. Any more ideas?

You can get a small Propane torch at Lowes or Home Depot  or Tractor Supply also what you need is a set of roll pin punches they have a round tip to fit in that pin. Also you need something solid on the back side of that  shaft to keep it from bouncing on you. You need a good solid blow.  Good Luck don't give up the ship Mate

Chas

[J Man 0]

You didn't tell me it was going to be so tough to find a roll pin punch! Been calling all the local auto parts stores and gunsmiths with zero luck! Going to keep checking around, but may end up having to order one..   

[WH854 44]

You didn't tell me it was going to be so tough to find a roll pin punch! Been calling all the local auto parts stores and gunsmiths with zero luck! Going to keep checking around, but may end up having to order one..   

You can get them from Sears

Chas

[MalMac 1,328]

I know Sears has them in the Craftsman line and I also think I have seen them at Harbor freight. Like said before make sure you put something on that back side to help support that shaft when you go smacking on that roll pin. If you don't you will end up bending that shaft just a little and then you will have all kinds of problems.

[pacer 3,159]

From what I'm reading here that pin is generally referred to as a "roll pin" and at times they can be a booger to get driven out. The pin is spring steel 'rolled' into a circle that is marginally larger than the hole the it is driven into. (for a 3/16" pin you drill a 3/16 hole and the pin will be some .010-.015 larger than the hole - guessing here!) You dont HAVE to have a pin punch - that is best - but in the situation you have with a stubborn pin, youre probably gonna HAVE to get back-up on the part,

[WH854 44]

J MAN I have a suggestion for you in case you cannot get the part off. Kelly the parts man here on RS sells used parts give him PM and check.

 

Chas

[J Man 0]

Mission accomplished. Took a lot longe on the heat than I was expecting, but i managed to get the pin out. All put back together, and almost running fine. I think i need to do some fine tuning as the belt is not catching a uniformly as it should when i let the clutch out. the drive is stop and go. I may not have the clutch return spring in the proper hole on the frame? I put it in the high hole on the clutch arm rod, and the lower hole in the frame. Will look over the forum  a bit to see where I screwed up. It was running fine before the fix, so i hope to get her back to 100% shortly.

Thanks guys!

Jason

[WH854 44]

Mission accomplished. Took a lot longe on the heat than I was expecting, but i managed to get the pin out. All put back together, and almost running fine. I think i need to do some fine tuning as the belt is not catching a uniformly as it should when i let the clutch out. the drive is stop and go. I may not have the clutch return spring in the proper hole on the frame? I put it in the high hole on the clutch arm rod, and the lower hole in the frame. Will look over the forum  a bit to see where I screwed up. It was running fine before the fix, so i hope to get her back to 100% shortly.

Thanks guys!

Jason

Hi  J Man glad you got the clutch arm off.   About the position of that spring, It should hook in the middle hole of the clutch arm the other end goes in a hole on top of the axle housing, the hole is cast right in the housing you can't miss it

Chas

[WH854 44]

Hi All,  new member here

 

I'm pretty excited, I just picked up a 1984 C- 165 8 speed earlier this week. WIll post some pics when I take some.

 

I managed to break the arm clutch rod on my tractor as I was trying to loosen the trunion that the threaded rod goes through. New one on order, but i am having a very difficult time removing the part of the  broken arm clutch rod  piece that still remains on the rod that goes through the frame (attaches to the pulley on the far end). The pin spirol must be in there still (as the tractor drives), but I cannot figure out how to remomove the pin. I origionally thought it was a allen screw in there, but my allen wrench went right through the hole, presumably through the pin spirol? Assuming the piece will just slide off once spirol is removed?

 

Not very mechanically inclined on this end (yet). Your advice is much appreciated.

 

Thanks!

Jason

You are not the only one that can break a clutch rod   I got the bright idea to adjust my clutch travel, so I took the clutch rod and trunnion off the tractor, put rod and trunnion in vice to turn trunnion back some, wire brushed the threads on rod, put a little oil on  threads, no turn, whats the matter here, a little heat, no turn, more heat, still no turn, more muscle, snapped that trunnion right off, what the he##. Now I have to get new parts! The threads on that rod were in good shape. I tried heating the broken threaded end and trunnion red hot, still all I did was chew up the one end in the vice. The factory must put loktite on the threads.  The good side, I got new parts and tractor is up and running

Chas